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Spike last won the day on January 15 2019

Spike had the most liked content!

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My RV or Travel Trailer

  • Do you own an Oliver Travel Trailer, other travel trailer or none?
    I own an Oliver Travel Trailer
  • Year
  • Model
    Legacy Elite II
  • Floor Plan
    Twin Bed Floor Plan
  • Hull #

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  1. Thanks to all who offered advice. Most of you seem to agree that a cheap 12-volt battery, properly connected, would suffice for the short term--getting us home. Mike at Oliver, however, did not agree, saying that we would drain the battery to uselessness within an hour or so. As I wrote earlier, he told me the best temporary solution was to tape up the ends of the cables and secure them until I could get new high-grade batteries. I decided that I wanted to upgrade to the Battle Born lithiums, thinking I might find someone along the route home from whom I could purchase the batteries and who could install them with the needed components. That turned out to be a fruitless search, as those I contacted either could not get the batteries or were scheduled way into the future with other repair jobs. My solution was to order the batteries and needed components-- BBGC2 Battle Born 100Ah GC2, PD4045LICSV Progressive Dynamics Replacements 4000 Series 45 Amp Lithium Converter, and BAM030712000 Victron BMV-712 Battery Monitor--from Battle Born. If their shipping promise holds true, I will receive them after we return home. I have contacted my local RV repair shop in Sierra Vista, AZ, and they assured me that they have the ability to install the batteries and components, having done so before with a couple of other rigs. The downside is that they too are swamped, and will not be able to do the work until the beginning of December. In the meantime--since we are committed to staying in Escalante, UT till Tuesday, performing in the festival here--I have made an appointment with a mechanic for Tuesday at what seems to be the only auto repair shop for many a mile, who says he will try to install that cheap battery to help us get home. (I understand that we will have to be very conservative with our power consumption on that trip, hoping that Mike from Oliver might not have had it exactly right.) Despite all of the worry, hassle, and time, I am looking forward to eventually having an upgraded solar/battery system. I received the sale price on the batteries and a reduced price on the components. Folks who said Battle Born had good customer service seem to be correct. Thanks again for everyone's help.
  2. I finally connected with Mike from Oliver, who said, after putting me on hold to research the issue, that there was no way on my trailer to cut off the power to the battery compartment. I then asked if the best thing for me to do was to just make sure all of the wire ends were covered with electrical tape. He replied, "Yes, Sir." I'm a bit concerned about his answer; it seems that there should be a way to easily cut the power to the batteries. Yes, I do have a way to test to discover whether there is electricity in the wires. Thanks. I will try that soon.
  3. Thanks, but doing that disabled lights, fans, etc. that we need--as we are connected to shore power. I WOULD like to disable shore and solar that formerly went to the batteries if possible. What switch or button might I need to turn off to do that?
  4. Thanks for the information, tips, and link, Mike and Carol. We will indeed call BB. It's good to hear from you now that we are back on the road after a too-long hiatus. Yours was the first Ollie that we got to touch and see in person. Yes, let us know when you get down to our corner of AZ.
  5. Thanks, Mossemi. I have tried to attach a photo of the octopus wiring in the battery compartment. I've also attached photos of what might be relevant control panels. My camping friend did not enter our Ollie. I Is the button or switch in the attic marked "12 V DC" what needs to be shut off? If so, is it a button that needs pushing or s switch that needs moving? IMG_2477.HEIC IMG_2476.HEIC IMG_2478.HEIC IMG_2479.HEIC
  6. CALLING ON THE EXPERTISE OF TECH-SAVY OLLIE OWNERS Our about-five-years-old Trojan batteries failed us last night in an alarming way. My wife, Liz, noticed an electrical odor and then heat radiating from the battery compartment under the pantry. I checked the Zamp solar controller. No error message was displayed, and all else—voltage, amp hours, amps being use—looked normal. Upon sliding out the battery tray, we noticed one of the batteries was oozing fluid and the top was distorted with something like a bubble. That battery was very hot, and the others also more than warm. I have very little knowledge of batteries and electrical systems in general, so I was very fortunate to have met, a couple of hours earlier, a fellow camper who had described building his own solar system on his own home-built travel trailer. With his help and an alarming warning that a battery this hot could explode, we disconnected all four AGM batteries, removed them from the tray, and sealed all exposed wire connections well with electrical tape. We are now on shore power at an RV park in Escalante, UT. (We are here to perform at the festival this Friday.) It is now Sunday, and the one auto-parts dealer/auto-mechanic shop in town is closed. My fellow camper suggested that—with assistance of someone from this shop—we might be able to temporarily install an inexpensive 12-volt battery to suffice for the couple of boondocking stops we had planned to make before returning home in Southern AZ. He also recommended eventually replacing the blown AGMs with Battle Born lithium batteries, which I think I would like to do. I sure would appreciate any advice and answers to these questions that occur to me now: 1. If the local auto-parts dealer/auto-mechanic shop has a 12-volt battery that could suffice before I find someone to sell me and install the lithium batteries, would that temporary fix work with my solar-electrical set-up? If so, what things do I need to consider when dealing with the mechanic who may be able to help? (The octopus of wiring after the disconnect baffles me, but perhaps a good mechanic familiar with 12-volt-solar-converter set-ups like mine would be able to install the battery efficiently and safely until I get to a larger metropolitan center where I could have the lithium batteries installed. We plan to be in Flagstaff soon.) 2. When I DO find an outfit—I hope in Flagstaff—that could sell me the lithium batteries and install them, what things do I need to consider? Will my current equipment suffice to handle the new lithium batteries, or will other things need to be changed, like the solar controller, the inverter, etc.? All suggestions concerning this lithium battery replacement of my AGMs will be appreciated. Here is the list of components in our 2017 Oliver Elite II that I hope will help those who may be able to offer suggestions and answer any of my questions: 1. Four Trojan T-105 6v AGM batteries 2. Zamp solar Package 3. Progressive Dynamics converter 4. Xantrex 2000W inverter I thank all respondents in advance for any suggestions offered. I have previously received great advice on this forum and hope to receive some now. (Our Ollie had been, before this trip, more or less stationary for almost two years.) Also, please, if you can, avoid technical terms that a non-tech-savvy guy like me will not understand—or please define such terms. Thanks!
  7. We have the composting toilet and use the same method as Overland and the same adapters--garden hose, etc. We also discovered that we can open the gray-water valve just enough that we can close the basement door when hooked up to a sewer drain. (I understand the need to flush last with gray water if one does not have the composting toilet.)
  8. I can say that when I was researching trailers and when I first saw and understood the construction of the Ollie's steps is when I fully realized how superior this trailer is to the others.
  9. Raspy, I'm not sure that you got my reply to your other post in which I let you know that the problem with the inverter had been resolved. (See my posts above.) I am happy to report that we are now in Flagstaff, and the inverter has been working. Thanks.
  10. No, I leave them on. It was a bit of a hassle attaching them with the provided springs. I sure would not like to have to remove and replace them at every camp site. Here is a link to the other screen for the louvered vents.
  11. This organizer has worked for us, along with this cover that fits our grey, black, and white color scheme of our Ollie, along with using this dialectic grease inside the seven-pin connector.
  12. Here are the answers to your questions bhncb: 1. I flipped that jumper when I was attempting to attach the the inverter cable on the same post with the solar charge cable and 12v main, thinking that it might give me more room. It didn't. I gave up trying to get it on that post, came in the house, and saw the diagram that mossemi had sent. I'm thinking that, now that it works as is, I'll let it be. (Sharp eye for noticing though.) 2. Yes, the cable had no problem reaching that middle battery terminal, and the tray slides open all the way. I earlier mentioned that I could not pull it out to reach one of the OUTSIDE battery terminals, which someone earlier seemed to suggest I do. The mystery remains about why that cable was not attached with the inverter working for two years previous to it malfunctioning. It sure was a hassle diagnosing and solving the problem, but I'm glad that the inverter is intact, and I agree with Mike: "Issues like this result in better knowledge and greater confidence. It also helps to have so many smart folks willing to jump in and help." Thanks!
  13. Camco screen for water heater vent.
  14. Here you go. I think that I failed to understand that you were talking about the same screw post that mossemi revealed in the diagram he shared. Please critique. Thanks for your help and patience. All seems to be working. So glad I didn't have to deal with a fried inverter. Still puzzled by the loose cable.
  15. THANKS! I just about ready to correct my post of "SUCCESS!" because I could not get the inverter lug on that post with the other two lugs attached. Thanks to you, I will now try putting it on the post indicated by the Oliver diagram. I AM a bit concerned, nonetheless, because a yellow sticker on the battery informs me that the screw posts are NOT to be used except for low-current applications. I supposed that powering an inverter might not be a low-current application, but was then puzzled why the lug was obviously set up to be attached in that manner. I will now suppose that powering the inverter via the screw post is OK. I am going back outside now to attach it to the post indicated by the diagram. Thanks again.
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