Alternative Sewer Hose System

[DCKiefer]

Here is a unique sewer hose system that does not use the bonnett style fittings and has a valve at the end of the hose. The system uses a cam lock setup that provides and air tight connection between the hose and sewer outlet. The valve at the end of the hose helps keep the whole system sealed.

 

I had hoped to keep the hose on at all times but there just isn't enough room in the bumper without major sewer outlet modifications. Note that once you commit to this setup there is no turning back since the bonnett tabs must be removed and the adapter glued into place.

 

I hope to use the valve at the end of the hose to fill a portable tank when sewer is not available at the camp site.

 

The hose is also unique since it stays in place and doesn't act like a slinky.

[jam49]

Thanks for the pictures. I am so confused about which system to use. I have looked at the portable electric system at Camping World that is supposed to grind all waste to less than 1". I have looked at the connections that are clear so that it is known when the black water holding tank is empty. I have not had the opportunity to "go camping" in Revilo yet (other than in the driveway with the grandkids) so it is just as well that an opportunity hasn't come up to really go camping. I am taking it slow on learning everything I can before taking that first real trip after pickup at the factory and staying overnight at the campground. Of course the sewer system hookup is a major issue even when at a campground.

In the picture it looks like the 1"?? bar hanging down is cut away for a little ways. I asked Robert if they factory guys could cut out a little bit of that overhang bar so it would be easier to connect the sewer hose.

 

When you say this is a permanent fix are you able to close the "gate" on the silver rectangular holding box for lack of a better way to describe it?

Thanks again for the pictures.

[jam49]

I find it not so easy to explain my thoughts with just words typed on a screen. I love my Oliver and Robert and the factory guys are the best!

[tumbleweed]

Hi Jam!!

First thing you want to do is put a piece of gutter or similiar SMOOTH piece of plastic over the rough aluminum in the hose compartment. This will protect whatever hose you are using from rubbing and getting tiny holes in it.

We use 2 systems. One is the std one you are using with a 5 inch clear piece attached to the trailer with the cap on it when traveling. This extends the "hookup" further out making it easier to hook up the stinky slinky. When dumping, I then attach a 10 inch clear piece, then the slinky hose. We are using this for the long term hookup while we're here in Truth or Consequences or whenever a fast dump is needed. FYI, do not leave black water valve open while hooked up for a long time. Let the tanks get fairly full (80% +) then black first, close then grey water then close.

We also use a Sewer Solution, a water driven macerator, for a more complete cleaning. Must use the 5" and 10" clear piece to extend the Sewer Solution past the bumper. Also ground off a 1/2 " semi circle to make it easier to insert various pieces. Hope this helps.

Chuck n Geri n critters soaking in mineral spas in New Mexico!

[jam49]

Chuck and Geri,

This information is most helpful also. Wonder if I can use the blue end piece that DC posted a picture of? I sure like how the hose can be lifted and fitted on the dump valve with the blue end piece. It's off to the store for me now that I have a better idea of what is needed without buying too many connecting pieces. Is there an average?? length of hose needed while at a campground? J

[jam49]

I forgot to ask. What suggestions are there for where and how to store the sewer hose and connections when traveling? I saw a storage box for the macerator pump and accessories that was at Camping World. J

[DCKiefer]

This post is in response to the system picutured in the orginal post. All the sewer valves work as intended. My orginal hope was that I could leave the hose with this system connected at all times, only removing it for a good cleaning. this didn't work out since I needed about another half inch to allow the bumper to close. Needles to say I have to detach the hose when not in use.

 

Jam49 also mentioned the slink red hose. The system I switched to replaces the hose with a thicker material the stay in position and the length you wish to use.

 

The thing I really like is the cam lock on the hose connection at the sewer outlet. This style is a sure seal.

 

I'll let other comment on the electric pumps since I don't have one.

[bugeyedriver]

Well . . . I liked the thought of ridding myself of "stinky slinky" chores altogether and have had the Wonder Egg modded with a box mounted Thetford RV Sani-Con macerator system - I figured everything else about the Wonder Egg was so awesome I would "tidy up" this one last area. No more connecting and disconnecting the 3" hose . . . no more icky dribbles . . . WOOHOOO!

 

http://www.thetford.com/HOME/PRODUCTS/SaniConSystem/tabid/545/Default.aspx

 

A hole was drilled into the aluminum backplate for the wiring. There is no fiberglass behind this plate - when you are through it, you are inside. Be careful not to extend the drill bit too far inside!

 

It uses 12V DC which I tapped from the fuse box near the floor in the dinette area using a 20Amp fuse for protection. The pump mounted nicely inside the bumper area with one cutout to the lip of the top cover to permit removal / repair and to fit in the sewer nozzle. The 1" hose is normally retracted to 7' for easy storage but easily extends to 21' for use. It will pulverize waste materials and pump at a rate of 12-14 GPM. By attaching another hose, I can discharge up to 350 feet away and uphill 20'!

 

 

 

While I was at it and the bumper top plate was off (4 rivets hold it on) I added a shut off valve to the propane disconnect to reduce the pressure for hooking up the for BBQ connection.

[SeaDawg]

Nice installation, Pete. Really makes use of the space in the bumper area. Looks like a very neat solution.

[desmo_pilot]

Hi Pete,

 

Where did you get the nice two piece aluminum bracket to hold the propane quick disconnect? The one installed in mine is a single piece that doesn't have anywhere the nice fit that your two piece appears to have.

 

Thanks!

Kyle

[bugeyedriver]

Kyle,

 

It's the original bracket fabricated by Oliver during the Wonder Egg's production. It was easy to remove the top yoke with the two screws. (especially with the bumper top removed) I picked up the valve from Home Depot . . . it's a 3/8" threaded ball valve marked 600psi WOG (water or gas) along with a 3/8" male threaded connector. I used yellow pipe thread tape which is meant for gas applications. Installation time was under 10 minutes.

 

Pete

[desmo_pilot]

Thanks for the info Pete. I'll get ahold of Robert to see if they have any of those 2pc brackets left. The one piece that is installed in mine is a pretty poor design that leaked badly. I took it apart and made some modifications to it to stop the propane leak, but I considered it temporary until installing a different design.

 

Thanks again,

Kyle

[bugeyedriver]

Kyle,

 

This aluminum bracket merely fits around a mid-point narrowed portion of the brass quick release fitting and holds it firmly in place. It really has nothing to do with propane leak integrity. Was your quick release itself bad?

[desmo_pilot]

Hi Pete,

 

Understood about how your 2pc design goes together. The issue with the 1pc is that unless you have a propane fitting that is designed for a bulkhead, there is no great way to hold the piping and/or quick release. A bulkhead fitting is designed exactly for this scenario and I did find a couple available on the internet. I may just order one and do that. However, if Oliver has one of the 2pc designs sitting around that I could buy, then I would likely do that.

 

My leak was purely from the use of a 1pc bracket and no way to securely attach the quick release fitting without the use of a bulkhead fitting. I have since fixed the leak using an inch longer piece of brass tubing and a clamp to hold the assembly in place. This is purely temporary so that I could use the trailer without leaking propane. I have planned to do a permanent fix, just haven't found the time yet.

 

Thanks again!

Kyle

[JuniorBirdMan]

Yahooo! Pete, thanks for the post and for doing the engineering work. I just finished installing the same sewer hose system and it is great! A pleasant surprise was the technique included in the package on how to rinse the black tank (and precharge it) with the grey tank and how to empty some of a full grey tank into a partially full black tank.

 

A particularly satisfying event in my Ollie ownership experience occurred this morning when I tossed the "stinky slinky" into the dumpster!

[bugeyedriver]

Aubrey,

 

Congrats on the burial of your stinky slinky! I too, was happy to see the methodology for the black tank clean and pre-charge written about in the data sheets . . . but I'm not sure the configuration Oliver system will work exactly that way for us. (I hope I'm wrong) Looking into the bowels (pun intended) of the trailer shows the bottom of the black tank is a few inches higher than the gray tank, sooooo when the soapy gray water sloshes on over to the black pathways it should simply fill a portion of the long "sewer pipe" that runs from the black holding tank to the dump valve. It's better than nothing, but I don't think we'll see soapy water in the actual black holding tank. (Although perhaps a bit of sloshing will still occur into the tank as we motor down the road.)

 

Nevertheless, the primary purpose of the macerator will work fine and I'm so glad to be stinkyslinkyless!

[JuniorBirdMan]

Oh, well. I guess I can always siphon between the tanks. I just hope not to get confused about which is which.

[bugeyedriver]

Oh, well. I guess I can always siphon between the tanks. I just hope not to get confused about which is which.

 

[charliep]

Greetings,

 

I am a new Oliver owner (I recently bought the demo unit that was in Trailer Life Mag). I just installed a macerator pump just like the ones in the previous pictures and am having less than optimal results with it. I plan to remove it and put it a removable plastic tool box like the tank buddy system as I believe the location of the pump makes it impossible to work properly.

 

The instructions say that the waste inlet must be installed below the rv waste outlet for proper operation. With the way it is installed now the best you can do is mount the waste inlet even with the rv waste outlet. It starts sucking air and sputtering when there is still about 8 gallons of fluids in the tanks. It stops pumping altogether when there is still 5 gallons of fluids left. This isn't too much of a problem when you are discharging downhill, but if you try to pump uphill as soon as the pump starts sucking air uphill pumping is done.

 

On another note, the macerator pump discharge hose is plenty long enough to pump your gray water directly into the toilet to equalize the tanks.

 

Charlie Porter

[bugeyedriver]

Charlie,

 

Did you have the front of the Ollie raised up during your dump operation? I've found this helps a lot. Good to know about the direct gray to black capability, now JuniorBirdMan won't need to worry about which tank he's siphoning.

[JuniorBirdMan]

NOWWWW you tell me! Yuk!

[JuniorBirdMan]

Hey Pete!

 

Any thoughts on how to keep the whole gizmo from being damaged while camping in subfreezing weather?

[bugeyedriver]

Aubrey,

 

Living so far south, I hadn't given that much thought . . . hmmmmmmm . . . what would you think of a light bulb wired into the area to provide a small amount of heat?

[JuniorBirdMan]

That might work. Also, I've got a device on my boat that warms the engine compartment with hot air. I'll research it when I get home (I'm in Maine now) and see if it has possibilities.

[bugeyedriver]

Main! No wonder you're thinking about sub freezing temps. I find there is nothing to freeze in the hose and only a little over an inch of liquid at the pump entrance. To preclude an energy drain while boondocking from a light bulb or warm air source, how about simply diluting some antifreeze in a gallon of water and sending it down the toilet drain to mingle with the water staged at the pump?

 

As a last resort, for cold weather ops, perhaps we could unscrew the pump from its mounting and swing it over the end of the bumper during operation, letting it hang down just a bit to provide greater vertical drop for the water. This should allow the pump to totally empty.