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JuniorBirdMan

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Everything posted by JuniorBirdMan

  1. Something to take into account if wiring the EMS for protection from the generator: Some generators (Honda, for instance) use a floating neutral and your EMS may interpret this as an open ground and not allow power to the Ollie. The fix is pretty simple and cheap, a 110 plug with the ground and neutral bonded together to let the EMS know everything is OK. The N-G plug is then plugged into an unused receptacle on the generator. I use it successfully (and safely) even with two Hondas in parallel. Only one generator needs to have the N-G bonded plug. See directions here: http://noshockzone.
  2. I wired my EMS to protect input from both the shore power and generator power. To that end, having the remote monitor located inside the cabin allows me to monitor the amps being drawn. It's surprisingly easy to exceed the generator output even without air conditioning. I even saw over 40 amps once while on shore power.
  3. That might be me that Sherry is talking about. I've had the SPOT mounted up high in the closet for a few years now and I love it. Friends and family know where I am at all times and if the trailer moves just a few feet I have it set up to send me an email AND a text message. My Ollie is stored in a metal building so it has no satellite contact but I get a message as soon as I pull it out of there. I've been running it on batteries all this time simply because getting power to that location looked like it would be a PITA. I have been pleasantly surprised that the batteries seem to last for
  4. I've got mine mounted on a hinged piece of Lexan in an overhead compartment. The light from that thing is pretty bright at night so I can swing it out of the way and close the overhead. No drilling required - just route the phone cord between the hulls to the overhead compartment.
  5. Lovable guy. My thoughts and sympathies are with his family.
  6. I've been doing it constantly for almost 9 years now. I never got a manual for my Ollie (#32) so never knew better. The only time I had a problem was when I left the push-up bath vent open and the fan powered. I doubt the poor little motor lasted more than a few minutes at the speeds I like to travel.
  7. (BTW, nice foto bomb by your finger, Aubrey) I was trying to blot you out of the photo, but missed.
  8. A few months ago I replaced the frame on my door window because the original had become quite yellow. This is the one I used: https://www.etrailer.com/RV-Doors/Lippert-Components/LC363369.html It worked quite well and survived a 2-day "monsoon" on the Gulf Coast with no leaks and no rattles. I've also been in contact with http://www.rvfogdr.com/ because my rear escape window is fogged, but haven't scheduled a visit there yet. They may be able to offer some help.
  9. Glad you got it working, Scotty! I know what a relief it is. As much as Ford touts its trailer towing capabilities, it boggles the mind that they won't incorporate the circuitry of the Tow Ready into their F-150s and have ignored the numerous complaints they have received on the issue. (Google "Ford F-150 trailer disconnect" and you'll get an earful, so to speak.) Between that and the terrible nav system installed on the 2015 (compared to the system on my 2010 F-150, which was excellent), I may be looking elsewhere the next time I need a new TV. I don't know how the Ford 2016-2017 na
  10. That's exactly right. I operate solely from my onboard fresh water, so I keep a 1-ounce syringe with my Purogene bottle. A few inches of plastic tubing attached to the syringe makes it easy to fill and then just squirt it into the hose. The label on the bottle also has instructions for sanitizing the tank and is a bit safer and easier than using Clorox. Refilling the tank before storage (with 1 ounce Purogene per 30 gallons water) keeps the tank in a sanitized condition.
  11. Try this: https://www.rvwaterfilterstore.com/US.htm I have the AC powered 3 GPM Sterilight system. Other options (DC, 5 GPM, etc.) are available. The reason I chose AC is that my F-150 has convenient AC power ports and a short extension cord makes life a bit simpler if I can't quite get the truck really close to the water source. Also, here is a link to where I buy my Purogene: http://billydump.com/3r/3rhome.htm The OdorCon product on this page is the same concentration of chlorine dioxide but is not "food grade", per a call to the maker. Rather than carrying tw
  12. It probably is as long as the water source is located fairly close to your Ollie. But most of the times I've used this system I've had to pump water from the source into a 40-gallon bladder in my truck and then drive to Ollie and pump it through the filters and into the Ollie.
  13. I have no desire to convince anyone of anything. I obtained the system specifically for the trip to Mexico and now use it only occasionally such as when extreme boondocking in very isolated places where the only available water is from lakes and streams. Travelling south of the border the choices are limited: one can either sanitize water with such a system or wrestle with several 5 gallon containers every few days. Or risk the consequences. Ditto for extreme boondocking. As many others have stated, there are numerous and various levels of water purification systems available. Use what su
  14. I'm still here! ScubaRx saved me the trouble of digging around for the old post on this subject. The system works great and is available in AC or DC powered versions, as is the Wayne pump. As for the chlorine dioxide, some folks get nervous because of the word "chlorine" in its name. A little research on the 'net will give you a good background on its use/safety. If you're drinking tap water at home, the odds are that it was purified using chlorine dioxide. Also, it works great as a waste tank treatment, so now one bottle of chlorine dioxide serves both purposes for me since I no lon
  15. You might want to check with Pete (Bugeyedriver). I've seen him wearing foil hats from time to time. I don't think it has affected his brakes but I'm told it allows him to receive reruns of 'The Twilight Zone' even when they're not on the air.
  16. I've been using the portable unit for years and it has paid for itself several times. Two years ago while on a caravan to Mexico and Belize I watched two of our crowd plug into pedestal power only to hear some crackling noises as the 240 volts pretty much fried their electrical systems, so checking the pedestal power is a must. These units are somewhat expensive (in the $250 range) but they do that and more and are cheaper than the catastrophic alternative. They also protect from overvoltage/undervoltage by interrupting power as the voltage oscillates during the day like when more RVs plu
  17. That's probably wise. I had to discuss the bulletin with the service advisor for several minutes to convince her that the bulletin NEEDED to be complied with. She kept asking if I was sure that it wasn't a trailer problem. I ended up leaving a copy of the bulletin stuck over the nav display to be sure the tech who would actually perform the work would get the idea. Also, I had highlighted the part about the "Trailer Disconnected" message. The only thing the invoice said was "reprogrammed brake module" with no other description or codes, but apparently the tech knew what to do.
  18. Attached. Good luck! Brake-controller-1.pdf
  19. That's correct. It appears Ford may have FINALLY fixed the problem.
  20. Yesterday Ford updated my brake controller module in accordance with their latest service bulletin. I changed the trailer brake setting back to 'electric brakes' and had a chance to test it out today. I'm happy to report that the brakes now work as intended and no more troublesome "Trailer Disconnected" messages! Yay!
  21. I have been told that if you don’t have any trailer brakes you WILL KNOW IT. But not sure I will be able to sense reduced vs. full. In the "electric brakes" mode I can get them to lock up using the manual brake 'slider', although I get the dreaded "Trailer Disconnected" message. In "electric over hydraulic" mode I can't get them to lock up even at max brake setting (10.0). If you have an area where stopping distance is not a concern then you can try using the same approximate brake pedal pressure without the 7-pin connector installed (secure the cable to the tongue so it doesn't drag t
  22. I received the Tow-Ready 20142 yesterday and immediately took the trailer out for a test drive with it after resetting the F-150 brake setting back to electric brakes (I'd been using the "electric over hydraulic" setting and having luck with that, albeit at reduced braking ). No help and the "trailer disconnected" message came back and came on whenever stopping or manually applying the trailer brakes. As per my previous post, there is absolutely NO chance that grounding is the issue and everything works just fine when connected to a friend's GMC SUV. I'll have to give up and see if the la
  23. I had these problems for many years with both a 2010 F-150 and a 2015 F-150. Since the problem followed the vehicle change, I assumed that the issue was with the Ollie. I performed every troubleshooting technique I could find including replacing ALL ground wires in the Ollie, adding a ground between the trailer frame and the truck chassis, adding extra grounds from the individual brakes to the Ollie trailer ground, and getting the Ford dealer to run Service Bulletin # SSM 45236 (which, by the way, has since been superseded by SSMs 45508 and then 45803). All resistance and capacitance tests wer
  24. I think I used some 14 gauge ROMEX that was hanging around. Make the 90° bend first (the rightmost bend in the foto) and then insert between the panes to get the right length for the next bend. The final shaping and the loop are easier done when removed. The overlap of the panes were not the same throughout the trailer so I made them all to accommodate the ones with the largest overlap.
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