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Can't reset GFCI


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Not hooked up to any power, solar input to batteries (3 100ah BB lithiums) only, trailer *is* connected to my truck, but truck is not running, so no power from there.

On my last trip when I parked, I turned the inverter on, no AC to anything in the trailer (microwave is my shortest answer to whether that is true, and yes, the microwave is plugged in.)  There is power on the inverter, display alternates between 0.00 and 13.1.  Fault light is NOT on.  I tested the GFCI, it tripped and now it will not re set.

Solar charge controller shows FULL at 13.4

This all happened to me one other time early this spring, I wasn't in a position to troubleshoot at the time.  Later hooked up to shore power, then when unhooked from shore power, was able to use the inverter for AC power in the trailer (without moving or connecting to my truck).  I do not understand the interactions between all these power sources well enough to know why or where to go from here.

Electrical seems to be the one system that I can't quite grasp, tho you all have helped me so much understanding what little I DO!  🙂

2018 LE2 #333  "the Otter"

2015 Silverado 2500HD

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Hello Liana.  My 2018 OE2 is the same model year as yours (Hull 342).

Your inverter display is saying you have no 120 V power.  Which one do you have?   So first lets look at the power supply into the trailer.  My assumption is that you do  not have a multimeter.

A.  Take a 120 Volt appliance that you know works and plug it into your home or RV park outlet.  This is just to ensure you have 120 V power there.

B.  Hook up your Shore power cord to the verified power source.  On the trailer end there is a small LED light.  If you have power to the cord end at trailer, then your cord is good.  Connect it to the trailer.

C.  Now open up the street side bed and check the Progressive Industries Surge Protection System for power status. It looks like this.  The small box is where it will talk to you.

image.png.0c4cf8aedfbecf89b1e38a83c9ba8f41.png

 

 

Looking at the small display LED,s here are the Display Codes.  You should have power here.  Advise if not.  Advise if you have a display code.  here is the chart.  

image.thumb.png.759d624a6ec112a8afa4b89ff83cac68.png

If you have power to the PI smart surge protector, then next step is to go to the breakers under the dining table, aft end. 

Check the 20 amp breaker.  Turn the breaker OFF, and then reset it.  Did the breaker imediatedly trip?  Is it "Soft"?  If you have power into the panel, cycle on the Air Conditioner.  did it work?  IF yes, you have power at the electrical panel.

Hence likely is a bad 20 amp breaker to the GFCI or the GFCI itself is bad.  

Let us know what you find out before we go to Phase II.

Geronimo John  

 

 

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TV:  2019 F-150 SuperCrew Lariat, 3.5L EcoBoost, Max Tow, FX-4, Rear Locker      OLLIE:  2018 OE2 Hull 342, Twin Bed.    OLLIE DIY’s: Timken Bearings, BB LiFePO4's, Victron 712 Smart, 350 Amp Master Switch, Houghton 3400, Victron Orion DC - DC, 3000-Watt Renogy Inverter, P.D. 60-amp Converter, Frig Dual Exhaust Fans, Kitchen Drawer Straps.    TV DIY’s:  2 5/16" Anderson System, Nitto recon’s, Firestone Rear Air Bags, Bilstein 5100’s, Mud Flaps & Weather Tech all, installed Ham Radio (WH6JPR).

  image.jpeg.9633acdfb75740f0fd358e1a5118f105.jpeg

 

 

 

 

 

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If that does not work, call me.  I'll PM you my phone number.

GJ

TV:  2019 F-150 SuperCrew Lariat, 3.5L EcoBoost, Max Tow, FX-4, Rear Locker      OLLIE:  2018 OE2 Hull 342, Twin Bed.    OLLIE DIY’s: Timken Bearings, BB LiFePO4's, Victron 712 Smart, 350 Amp Master Switch, Houghton 3400, Victron Orion DC - DC, 3000-Watt Renogy Inverter, P.D. 60-amp Converter, Frig Dual Exhaust Fans, Kitchen Drawer Straps.    TV DIY’s:  2 5/16" Anderson System, Nitto recon’s, Firestone Rear Air Bags, Bilstein 5100’s, Mud Flaps & Weather Tech all, installed Ham Radio (WH6JPR).

  image.jpeg.9633acdfb75740f0fd358e1a5118f105.jpeg

 

 

 

 

 

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Here is my PI HW30 cheat sheet and the manual.  Handy info to have when on the road.

GJ

 

OM - Progressive Industries HW30-50C (4 MAR 2023).pdfProgressive Ind. Surge Protector Codes (4 MAR 2023).docx

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TV:  2019 F-150 SuperCrew Lariat, 3.5L EcoBoost, Max Tow, FX-4, Rear Locker      OLLIE:  2018 OE2 Hull 342, Twin Bed.    OLLIE DIY’s: Timken Bearings, BB LiFePO4's, Victron 712 Smart, 350 Amp Master Switch, Houghton 3400, Victron Orion DC - DC, 3000-Watt Renogy Inverter, P.D. 60-amp Converter, Frig Dual Exhaust Fans, Kitchen Drawer Straps.    TV DIY’s:  2 5/16" Anderson System, Nitto recon’s, Firestone Rear Air Bags, Bilstein 5100’s, Mud Flaps & Weather Tech all, installed Ham Radio (WH6JPR).

  image.jpeg.9633acdfb75740f0fd358e1a5118f105.jpeg

 

 

 

 

 

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3 hours ago, Geronimo John said:

If that does not work...

Thank you, John.  All of that worked, I was able to reset the GFCI.  (EMS read 123 v 60H 27 A probably the fridge pulling the amps?  AC did not trip any breakers) Now the question is, when I go boon docking and can't get it to reset?  Seems like I need to keep the genny with me to be able to recover?  The good news is we're heading to Hohenwald later this month so if bad breaker or bad GFCI we can get changed out there.

2018 LE2 #333  "the Otter"

2015 Silverado 2500HD

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Am calling you directly.

GJ

TV:  2019 F-150 SuperCrew Lariat, 3.5L EcoBoost, Max Tow, FX-4, Rear Locker      OLLIE:  2018 OE2 Hull 342, Twin Bed.    OLLIE DIY’s: Timken Bearings, BB LiFePO4's, Victron 712 Smart, 350 Amp Master Switch, Houghton 3400, Victron Orion DC - DC, 3000-Watt Renogy Inverter, P.D. 60-amp Converter, Frig Dual Exhaust Fans, Kitchen Drawer Straps.    TV DIY’s:  2 5/16" Anderson System, Nitto recon’s, Firestone Rear Air Bags, Bilstein 5100’s, Mud Flaps & Weather Tech all, installed Ham Radio (WH6JPR).

  image.jpeg.9633acdfb75740f0fd358e1a5118f105.jpeg

 

 

 

 

 

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