dedroll

My trailer is a 2017, I turn off the breaker for the ac and only use the furnace. I have had to turn the thermostat on and off several times on occasion to get it to fire up and if the gas ran low I would run a stove burner to help the gas flow.

With you all's help I got this done. Parts came from Summit Racing: new timken bearings and 4 extra seals for $157.82 total!! I was glad my neighbor helped, he showed me how NOT to smash those races and seals into place. Thanks everybody!

thank you... it's tricky out there on the webs!

1 Results Found For "tmk set17" Part Type: Wheel Bearings KEYWORD: tmk set17 Individual Parts Part Groups In-Store Pickup Results 1 - 1 of 1 25 Records Per Page Best Keyword Match Sort Timken Wheel Bearings SET17 Wheel Bearing, Front Inner, Each Part Number: TMK-SET17 5.0 out of 5 stars ( 8 ) In Stock (more than 10 available) Estimated Ship Date: Today $9.99 Add To Cart Compare Wish List 1

Got it! Thank you!!

is there a way to create a signature?

This is bothering me now... I calculated the price for 4 Timken wheel bearing sets from Summit Racing at $75.92 and the price at Motion Industries was $308.28 ??

thanks thank you that must be the right part # then.

Thank you everyone! the LONG thread had the info I needed and I copied Geronimo Joe's info so now I will learn by doing. I have never thought much about wheel bearings but I see this topic is very nuanced with experienced opinions...kinda like what are the best tires and tire pressure!! shout out to John Davies who helps us all so much.

Hello, I am looking for a parts list or some guidelines for what I will need when I inspect and repack my bearings on our 2017 Elite 2. I have never done this but I am studying up and my neighbor said he could help. Will I need any special tools? Where is a good place to purchase this stuff? I will change the shocks, part #555025 from Monroe i think, and big question should I just go ahead and buy Timken bearings while I am at it? Thanks

Here is spot very near Ajo, AZ

I changed out my original fan to the Maxx fann because it failed. I found out that the fuse on the ventline was blown and it is not easy to identify or replaced. The maxx fann went in easy enough and it has a replaceable fuse! Overall it seems like a better made unit.

I am thinking that I tripped the trailer nose up to facilitate dumping my gray tank, after a bit I leveled it and it sat for several months. I had seen in a repair video the the workers who were installing the new cooling units made sure to tip them toward the "boiler" side before using. They said the ammonia could settle and not work properly.

Several hours on its side and on its head overnight mostly because I had no idea

My domestic fridge just stopped cooling, no signs of leakage. Everything testing good on the troubleshooting guides. The opinion of the local RV guy was that I had a failed cooling unit. That left me with two options: buy a new unit or replace the cooling unit. After talking to Jason at Oliver and him telling me that to remove the fridge from the trailer you need to remove the door, I thought I would try to replace the cooling unit myself. I found some places that would ship a unit for $500 to $1000 and I do the install. I watched many videos and researched the work. In this research I found several people talking about burping this kind of unit, it entails flipping the unit on its side, top and allowing the ammonia mixture to reposition and displace any air pockets. Since I had to remove the fridge from its housing I thought I would try it...and it worked! We just took a 10 day trip and it worked fine. Some RV techs said it was a wive's tale. Glad I tried it. Hope this might help somebody.