DCKiefer

If you didn't get the King Dome and don't want to mount a TV antenna on the roof I found an inexpensive alternative at Lowes. For just under $50, they have an small square flat panel indoor RCA TV antenna. Doesn't require and power and it works suprisingly well. I mounted in the rear storage cabinet where the TV cables run. Actually mounted it to the plate the holds the lights for the Oliver third brake light.

I was wondering about what Mountainborn says. I know when you do a trade with a dealer you only pay sales tax on the difference, but wasn't sure about selling a unit then buying another later. Too late in my case, if it worked that way in FL, but I did benifit from an error the clerk made, saved few hundred, honestly didn't notice myself for a few days. Also, if your state doesn't have an income tax, you can deduct the sales tax from your federal taxes. This was extended for 2008.

I'm a little slow at these math equations. Looking at the 12 through 17 positions in the VIN, I have 305028. Am I just to take the last two digits or is there another number to subtract from.

I campared everything I could find online about Casitas and Olivers. I will admit I saw and Oliver in person first and when I had a chance to look at a Casita it didn't take me but five minutes to make the Oliver choice. Big things in my opinion are the capacities of all the takes, space for two large batteries, all the marine grade hardware, double skin, double pained windows. Nothing hanging out of the bottome of the trailer. I could go, it's just a great camper I expect to have for a very long time.

Haven't drilled a single hole for hanging anything. Double stick tape, the heavy duty variety works great. Suction cups work good too, the larger the better or the type SeaDawg put us onto from Lowes, they even work hanging from under the cabinets. If you do drill I recommend being very carefully. I drilled a couple of holes for a few customizations and it doesn't take much to go through this material.

Just an update on the orginal idea. Put about 1500 miles on this idea this week and it worked fine. I had a little concern that this would cause the cover to fit a bit differently, but it stayed in place on some rough roads.

Another note on the pins. The right side pin is on my rig was really tight, almost impossible to remove or insert some times. I ran a drill bit of the same size as the existing hole and it now works like a champ. This did give the pin a little more play, but it doesn't appear to be an issue.

I am sure many of you have noticed the interest an Oliver gets in a camp ground and likely on the road. This last trip I really started to pay attention to folks in the rear view mirror as they passed. It is amazing the number of people that give this rig a look as they go by and how many slow down to take a good look. I even saw one lady at a stop light pull beside me, then back up to copy the phone number off the back of our Oliver. Luckily we were the only two vehicles at the light. The trailers are really rolling advertisement for Oliver Industries. Just amazing how interstesting a simple white, egg shaped camper is.

Agreed the outside lighting is great and the ground light is often more than enough for what we use. I would prefer to have all the swithces inside, with maybe one controlled from the outside on a three way so it could be tuned off inside.

One more post and I will stop taking up server space. It is great that Oliver installs outside lights on both sides of the camper, but only the lights on the door side can be turned on from inside. I want to see what is happening on the oppisite side before I go treking around the camper in the dark to turn on the side lights from the switches at the front. Luckily there are two extra switches right near the door in the main power panel. What I did was to access the driver side light through the access in the forward dinette seat. Cut the positive power feed, which comes from one of the three switches near the propane tanks. Spliced a new wire about 25 feet in length, fished it to the rear of the trailer, then up through the wire and A/C drian access to the upper cabinets. Next through the cabinets over the galley and connected it to one of the vacant switches in the main panel. Now I can turn on the driver side light at the door before tripping over a skunk in the dark. When we walk up to the trailer I still have the ground light I can turn on from the outside. Sorry no pics, but if you have questions I can give more detail.

Here is a possible solution for the where that is occurring where the propane tank cover contacts the trailer body. Not sure how well this will work since it has not been road test yet. I found some felt drawer liner at Lowes that is sticky on one side like tape. I cut it into strips that I applied to the edge of the propane cover that contact the trailer body. Make sure to install the felt at the upper edge of the cover, you should be able to see some wear points. I think you will still need to clean this to prevent dirt and grit from acting like sand paper. In addition to the felt. I found some clear automotive door edge protectors at Adavanced Auto Parts. I installed this on the bottom edge of the cover. The idea is that this is softer than the cut fiber glass edge. The trim goes on tight, but it can be installed. The picture shows what I did, but it might be a little hard to see, especially the clear trim on the lower edge. Overall the cover actually seems to fit a bit more snug.

If you have the newer style stainless steel power cord access you may have noticed that when plugging in your land line you can not close the cover to prevent critters or the weather from getting into the three inch opening. Here is a simple and inexpensive solution. Purchase a foam beverage holder if you don't already have an ample supply. Trim about 25% off of it's hieght. Next, cut a slit from the hole in the bottom and up the side. The slit will all you to put the beverage holder around your power cord and insert the foam holder into the cord access opening. Does a pretty good job of sealing this up.

Not sure about how to protect against nicks and stratches other than staying in one spot. I use a good quanlity marine was, like Scotchguard products. Runs about $25 a bottle and you might get one and half applications out of a bottle. I have been very impressed, I waxed my Oliver over a month ago and it still feels as slick as the day I applied the wax. You can rub out light scratches with something like 3M's Marine Restore. How has your Oliver held up on the outside to road debri like gravel? Do you see a lot of nicks? I had a truck that was getting chewed up by gravel on the back fender and found this clear vinyl tape that was about four inches wide. I applied it to where the gravel would hit and once applied was pretty much invisible and solved the nick problem.

I am usually skeptical of what the manufacture says is required, but as techomadia stated, they are on the money about not needing a sway bar system. I have towed my fully loaded Oliver with both my Toyota FJ Cruiser and Toyota Tacoma and felt no need for a sway bars. We have been up and down moutain passes, tractor trailers passing at 90 mph and drove to the beach in Gustav's 25 mph gusts (across Tampa Bay) and felt solid as a rock.

Cool tech stuff. Don't get too excited about my post, very low tech. I was looking for a little bit of outside storage space to keep a few small items I didn't want inside. Sorry no pics, but if you look just behind the propane tanks you will notice a small but usable space. I removed the tanks, to get to this space, cut a board to lay across the trailer frame and put my tanks back. Instant small storage location. I can slip my wheel chucks and a few other small items by the tanks into this space. Just make sure you don't put really small items here, since there are a few small gaps they could slip out through.

My wife and I picked up our Oliver just before you and I noticed the same thing with the heat. I thought it was too warm on the interior and added some issulation just behind the deflector at the top of the frig. It greatly reduced the amount of heat. Just be sure you don't have anything near the fins and the tube you will see at the top of the frig. You need good are flow around these. I also want to mention another issue I noted. I have to call the folks at Oliver about this, since it may have just been something that was over looked on our unit. When using our Fantastic fan with only one window open, I noticed some warmth and the odor of spent gas around the small vents in the unit near the Microwave. Upon further investigation, I found that the frig compartment was not sealed at the top, near the rubber deflector. This was allowing some heat and fumes to get into the cabin, especially when using the powerful Fantastic vent fan. I have since sealed the space I saw and have had no further issues. One note on the electric frig fans. I installed one of these on my previous camper and had to leave it turned off. Reason being was that even on the lowest setting the frig compartment began to freeze. Normal ventalation should be good for most, unless you are in outside temps that are constantly approaching the high 90's.

Hello Oliver community. My wife and I are interested in seeing an Oliver camper in person and live in Dade City. It sounds like your rally is or was just east of town at Withlacooche Rive Park. Is anyone still there that would be wiilling to show us their rig? Would greatly appreciate it. Thanks Paul