ScubaRx
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Posts posted by ScubaRx
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On 9/5/2022 at 2:18 PM, Rivernerd said:
Good to know.
Since Oliver can't install a Micro Air Easy Start in a Truma Aventa Eco air conditioner, does anyone know how much generator wattage is required to start it up?
OK, a further search gleaned this nugget: "...Truma state that the AC requires 20Amps for start-up..."
It was contained in the next to last response by Peter Toll in this article.
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3 hours ago, John and Jodi said:
How important is the leveling with an empty trailer, empty tanks, and refrigerator off?
As long as the absorption refrigerator is completely turned off, the RV can be off-level to any degree (maybe not upside down) and not harm the cooling unit in the refrigerator. It is only while in operation must the refrigerator be relatively level in order to work properly and safely. So if the unit is turned off, there’s really nothing to worry about if you store the trailer off-level over the winter.
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Launch my Himars
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26 minutes ago, Rivernerd said:
Good to know.
Since Oliver can't install a Micro Air Easy Start in a Truma Aventa Eco air conditioner, does anyone know how much generator wattage is required to start it up?
I've really searched for that information. Even though I don't have a dog in this race, I tried. Apparently the locked rotor amp (start-up amps) are not published. The running amps are as follows.
- Low speed = 9.4 amps AC (or 104 amps DC)
- Medium speed = 9.6 amps AC (106 amps DC)
- High speed = 10.5 amps AC (116 amps DC)
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On 1/13/2021 at 8:58 AM, Landrover said:
Better than having your shin whacked every time you walk by the rear of the truck...
I have massive Curt Hitches on either end of our Silverado.
Front = 45900
Rear = 45902
My philosophy on shins vs ball mounts:
First time...Inevitable
Second time...Crap!
Third time...You're just not paying attention
Fourth time...Really? No, Really? As Jeff Foxworthy says, you may not be smart enough.........
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Sales told me that the folks at Truma had said that if the MICROAIR Easy Start system was installed in one of their AC units that the warranty would not be honored. This is the reason that it is not offered as an option.
I copied this from this Site:
Will My Generator Run a Truma Aventa RV Air Conditioner?
You’d need a 3,000 Watt generator (or a 3,000 Watt inverter) to operate either model of the Truma Aventa. This is due to the power surge required at start-up.
We have no information as to whether the Truma Aventa is compatible with something like our Microair EasyStart 364 to handle the initial surge, but that would be a good question for Truma!
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If you don’t already own one, buy and LEARN TO USE a good multimeter. Don’t leave home without it.
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On 9/3/2022 at 1:57 AM, Steve and MA said:
Assuming no power losses when using an inverter or charger, wouldn't a 1000 watt generator producing 8 amps at 120 volts be able to charge a 12 volt battery at 80 amps?
Not exactly. The numbers you used to arrive at this conclusion are accurate: 10x the voltage, 10x the amperage.
But, the voltage output from the generator is supplied to and used by the trailer's onboard battery charger. The amp output of the charger determines how many amps are going into the battery.
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2 hours ago, Brian and Brandelyne Lewis said:
Well..you might be right about that. I have actually never studied the difference between the "Smart" and "Dumb" shunts with respect to Victron because I always assumed (you know where that gets you) that they only used Smart Shunts.
I will look into that and see what I can dig up.
Brian
The only difference between the smart shunt and the one that comes with the 712 display is the SS is BT enabled. The earlier 700 series monitors did not have BT. With the release of the 712 the SS became redundant for new installations.
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11 hours ago, Trainman said:
I fail to see where this makes sense to me, let's see we go Boondocking to get away an be in nature, now we want to set inside with A/C, did I miss something here.
trainman
I’m not sure if you missed anything, but picture this, if you will. You’ve had to travel, perhaps to a June wedding, maybe staged in the south or in the west, you made it through the ordeal and now you’ve got some free time so you decide to slowly make your way home, boondocking along the way thinking “this will defray some of the cost of this load of horse shite.” It’s HOT, daytime temps are consistently above 100°, it won’t cool off enough to sleep until well past midnight, if then. The ability to run the AC for even a short period of time to cool things down enough to go to sleep seems, at least to me, a pretty good option.
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On 8/30/2022 at 6:31 PM, bbrault said:
1- The AC will drain your Lithium in an hour or so.
2- A 1000W generator would then take 4-5 hours to recharge your Lithium.
3- Your expensive Lithium will only take a few hundred charge/discharge cycles.Let me expand on this a bit.
1- The AC will drain your Lithium batteries if used for too long, but it won't do it in an hour.
2- A 1000W generator can output a maximum of just over 8 Amps. If you've used 360 amps out of your batteries running the AC for several hours it will take this generator nearly two days to recharge your batteries.
3- LiFePo batteries can take thousands of cycles.
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On 8/31/2022 at 12:46 PM, bbrault said:
Is it possible to start the AC using the inverter and then switch from the inverter to the generator without the AC dropping off?
The compressor kicks on and off while running to maintain a reasonably constant temperature. I would expect that every time the AC compressor kicked back on it would overpower the generator, unless the inverter was left on all the time and could take up the slack the generator was unable to provide? Don't know if that is possible or if it would work.
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A standard air fitting (pictured) used in a regulated gas line usually will not work. The 4 pound pressure is not great enough to open the internal valve in the female fitting when the male fitting is inserted. A manual valved fitting solves the problem.
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16 hours ago, SeaDawg said:
Actually, photos do help. His connection looks different from others I've seen.
But, filling out a signature would truly help.
Of course photos can help identify a problem but to solve a problem requires more info than a photo can provide. In fact, I’ve seen that very non-valve connector setup in some of the early trailers. Without a full profile and a signature repeating pertinent info not all means of help are available to all the members trying to assist.
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On 8/30/2022 at 7:47 PM, In Pursuit said:
I will try to post some pictures tomorrow when it is light. Thanks
Needing you to post a picture is not the primary cause of our inability to adequately help you. You never completely filled out you profile nor added a signature with info about your trailer. Us all knowing the year, model etc will make it a lot easier to diagnose. Thousands of little changes have been made over the past decade to these trailers.
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On 8/31/2022 at 10:23 AM, Vicky said:
I got CIGS Solar panels. I think it works very well and is the most cost-effective solar panel I've ever bought. Unlike silicon-based solar cells, the CIGS thin-film solar cells are more flexible, stable, durable, light-sensitive, and last much longer.
And thanks to the tape on the back, it can be easily and safely installed where you need it without drilling holes or brackets.I consider Vicky's one and only post as spam due to the link she included. I did not hide or delete it because it has been responded to and some may find value in it.
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1 hour ago, Mike and Carol said:
After each camping trip I wash (and usually wax) our trailer, going on 7 years now.
I am very impressed. In 9 years now, I've washed ours maybe 3 times, had ours washed maybe 4 times and, unless you count CGI's ceramic coating, it's never been waxed.
1 hour ago, Mike and Carol said:When I’m up on the ladder (washing) the top and solar panels, I check each knob, they are always tight. I think I had to tighten one the first time I washed after our pickup trip in May ‘16. Mike
Same here, none have ever been loose.
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On 8/29/2022 at 11:23 AM, Steve and Deb said:
Since we will be picking up our Oliver in March, we would like to attend the 2023 rally. You all took most of the spots already, and there's only a few available in section B. Is this more or less a parking lot? Can't seem to find any photos of the area, and any drone video I find online looks like its over the ridge from the rest of the campground. What's the best area in section B if we end up there?
For some reason, site A01 has been open for a long time. Something wrong with it? It is the closest site to the entrance, but is it worse than section B?
We can always wait until closer and hope to snag a cancellation, but that might not happen, and we'd be out of luck.
Thanks for any input,
SteveLike Mike intimated above, there really aren't any "bad" sites. I do hope you'll come, it is a really fun time.
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I think I saw where Ruth posted something about the dates on FB.
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4 hours ago, In Pursuit said:
Ray thanks for the pictures, but my connection doesn't have that valve. My gas line goes right to the back of the QD fitting. I have a 2017 Elite II.
It should appear as something similar to this.
Copy and paste all of following into Google or equivalent.
Roastove 1/4" RV Propane Quick Connect Adapter, Propane or Natural Gas Quick Connect or Disconnect Kit, Shutoff Valve & Full Flow https://a.co/d/90iYWnf
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Good luck in all your travels. I hope you get to revisit all the places you’ve been and make new memories.
The tank readings you’re experiencing are pretty much what I would expect them to be. It is more of a guesstimate than a particularly accurate reading. As time goes by you will learn to accept this as normal, as it is.
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On 8/27/2022 at 6:45 PM, Jibbyboo said:
This may be obvious to more experienced owners, but I'll share here for other newbies like myself: the fridge outlet does not work on the inverter, so the AC only works when you're plugged into shore power. I thought, incorrectly, that if I turned the inverter on I could run the fridge on AC power. Learned something new, complete with the diagram from the manual (also sent by Craig Short)
that shows the fridge is not on an inverted outlet.
This also may be obvious to more experienced owners, but why would you want to take 12 VDC power out of your batteries, run it through a 90-95% efficient inverter that converts it into 120 VAC (thereby wasting 5-10% of your stored battery power) and then use that AC to run the refrigerator instead of just using the 12 VDC straight from the batteries?
That is the real reason the fridge is not on an inverted outlet.
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I bought a DOMETIC CFX3 75-Liter Dual Zone Portable Refrigerator and Freezer about three years ago. It has been used on every trip we’ve been on since then. When not traveling, it comes into the house and provides additional cooling and freezing space.
As a result, it has essentially run constantly since we purchased it. At home it is plugged into the wall but in the truck it runs on solar augmented 12 volt DC off its own separate battery. We have also successfully run it on a 500 watt Jackery.
It has been absolutely bulletproof and I can wholeheartedly recommend it. It easily and dependably maintains the temperature you set down to at least -10 degrees F. Ice cream will remain rock solid.
This model is slightly above your stated price range but I shopped around and found it under $1K with free shipping.
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Boondocking Generator Questions
in Ollie Boondocking
Posted
I’m sorry that info was little to no help. After I posted it, I wondered to myself if this article was speaking of another model.