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Posts posted by ScubaRx
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Good thinking with the vacuum. That way, if the air movement dislodged the blockage, it would be pulled out. I tried to unblock an air hose years ago that had a dirt dauber nest in one end by hooking it up to a compressor. All I managed to do was to push the nest deeper into the hose. I was finally able to get it cleaned out with water and more air.
Thanks for adding information to your signature. I modified it slightly by adding your model year - 2021. The reason for this is since Oliver has made numerous changes in components and options over the years, when posting related to these, listing your Oliver’s year and model, and the brand of the components makes the group’s responses much more informed.
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3 hours ago, Coach and JoJo said:
Is anyone using an external surge protector? I have one from my previous camper. I tried it and my Ollie was getting NO POWER! Any Ideas?
We need to know specifics about your trailer ie model, year, hull #, etc. These should be added to your signature in your profile so they show up in each of your posts.
Does your trailer have the onboard EMS?
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On 4/5/2022 at 1:34 PM, Citrus breeze said:
Yes, my unit is 734, picked up a year ago Feb. That's 2021.
Charlie
You really need to add this info to your signature. It will greatly aid others in helping you with future questions. Also include information about your tow vehicle.
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11 hours ago, Ben Phinney said:
3. Is there a valve in the black water flush system? Unable to find under the street side front dinette seat. This was not mentioned in the book but was in the video.
There were some trailers built that did have a valve in the black water line. It was accessed from under the forward dinette seat.
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On 9/22/2022 at 4:40 PM, Steph and Dud B said:
I talked to the tech who worked on our Ollie....One theory of his, maybe the spindle nuts were too tight (shouldn't be, I watched his boss torque them last time), so he re-torqued. He couldn't find anything else. Going on a short trip tomorrow. We'll see.
Compare what you watched him do to these steps:
1- After the hub has been replaced and the spindle nut is started, spin the hub with one hand while tightening the nut with the other.
2- When the nut is hand tight, the hub will still turn but with possibly some resistance.
3- Using a socket of the appropriate size, tighten the nut until the hub can no longer be turned by hand. This process is to properly seat the bearings into their races.
4- Back the nut off with the socket until you can once again turn it by hand. DO NOT allow the hub to spin during this step. If it does, retighten with the socket.
5- Tighten the nut by hand until it stops. BACK OFF the nut to where you can insert the cotter pin. This could be up 1/8 turn.
6- Spin the hub to make sure it’s not too tight. Install the cotter pin.
Note: Some Dexter spindle/nut combinations do not use a cotter pin but rather a spindle nut retainer which I much prefer. Same steps apply.
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4 hours ago, Jheim said:
You are correct that it would hold better and be much safer directly under the welded beam. Say the jack stands were placed adjacent to the beam with the weight of the trailer resting on them. If the trailer shifted and slipped off, the stand would either take out the fiberglass on the outside wall or punch up through the floor.
Also remember to always do work under the trailer while it is securely hitched to your truck.
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According to Toyota, the 2023 Sequoia (in 2WD) will have a maximum tow rating of 9,520 pounds. A 4WD version of this third-row SUV will only be able to tow about 9,100 pounds. The full-size, truck-based SUV with the highest tow rating is Stellantis' Wagoneer/Grand Wagoneer.
The 2022 and earlier models were limited to 7000 pounds and maybe a bit more. That’s cutting it close on safety and capability.
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2 minutes ago, CRM said:
The driver is not included in payload capacity either.
That is correct. Payload includes all occupants (people, dogs, spirits, aliens, etc), any additions to the vehicle since it was manufactured (camper top, bed slide, Andersen hitch, helper springs, all camping gear, cell phone chargers, GPS, boxes of Kleenex, snacks, luggage, etc). If it was not in or on the vehicle when it was sitting on the car lot it is considered cargo.
However, payload does not include the weight of any of the fluids that are necessary for the operation of the vehicle (fuel, oil, antifreeze solution, transmission fluid, etc)
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Lately, I've seen several posts from new or prospective owners contemplating purchasing a Weigh Safe Adjustable Trailer Hitch Ball Mount (WS) to tow their Oliver with. These are good looking hitches that have plenty of capability. They have HEAVY-DUTY TOWING CAPACITY: Made of 17 lbs of Aircraft Grade Aluminum & Stainless steel, with an industry leading towing capacity (GTW) of 12,500 lbs. The one I've referenced in the link above is the least expensive and has a four inch drop (6" 8" and 10" drops are also available.)
I bought one for the Outlaw Oliver about 5 years ago and, after a while, I was satisfied with it. It took me about a year to finally get one that would consistently work. The first two I bought were returned and replaced (Other than my time and having to use an alternate hitch while waiting on their return there was no real cost to me).
The reason that I'm sharing this info with the group is to provide you with food for thought. The WS's singular claim to fame (after it's good looking cool factor) is that it measures the tongue weight of the trailer. I'd guess it's accurate to 10 pounds or so. This is very useful information for safety. And, if you own a half dozen different cargo trailers this is the hitch for you. With this hitch you can instantly know what any particular trailer's tongue weighs and you can adjust its load accordingly. But, if you are only ever towing your Oliver, very little will ever change as to the way you will load it and the tongue weight will essentially stay the same every time. Don't expect that tiny little gauge to last forever.
The WS from Amazon is listed for $308.99 + tax for your state. Not cheap. On the other hand there's this Sherline Trailer Tongue Weight Scale. Again, on Amazon, for $130.00. There are three models available; 1000, 2000 and 5000 pound capacities. They are all the same price because there is actually no difference between them other that the gauge. The 1000 pound model is all you will ever need for the Oliver. If you ever found yourself needing the bigger ones all you have to do is swap out the gauge.
Either of these two options will accomplish the same end. One is somewhat cheaper and is more accurate. The other still has that cool factor that is important to a lot of us. Since I own both, maybe that makes me cool minus about $310.00. But, all is not lost. After we got the bigger trucks, I moved the WS to Tali's GMC Canyon Diesel so it still sees some use with our other two cargo trailers.
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On 3/8/2022 at 9:00 AM, ChrisMI said:
I’m not sure why I’m always so curious about payload. Same thing with useful load…if someone lists their plane for sale I could care less what color it is. I want to know what it’ll haul!
Because it really is just as, if not more important than, the towing capacity. From both a legal and a safety standpoint. I guess that's why I've gone through four different tow vehicles for the Outlaw Oliver. I've finally gotten to a point where I don't have to worry about capability or legality.
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@bbraultyou are probably close in your weight estimate of a new Elite. As Sherry mentioned, the original 2008 era Elites usually weighed in ready to camp at around 4000 pounds. We had Hull #026 and it always weighed about that or a bit more.
However, the 2023 Elite’s dry weight starts at 3700 pounds which is several hundred pounds more than the early models. Remember, this weight is based on just the base camper with no options and not a drop of water in it. Add food, clothes, water, options and all the other essentials and you’ll be close to your prediction. If you choose to use the Andersen hitch, which many pulling with lighter vehicles do, know it weighs 66 pounds. This will not add to the tongue weight of the trailer but it does have to be subtracted from the tow’s cargo capacity.
You would not be able to use a single 30 pound propane tank instead of 2 x 20 pounders to lighten the tongue as the propane housing on the Elite is not tall enough for a 30 pounder. As you probably know, DO NOT try laying the tank on its side. This would deliver the propane as a liquid instead of a gas (not good).
Not what you wanted to hear, but I truly believe this combination will be pushing safety to the max and I can’t recommend it. To paraphrase Chief Martin Brody “You’re gonna need a bigger truck.”
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Please post your cargo capacity.
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@ScottyGS We will be going in mid January. If I were you I would stay on I-20 or below. The further west you go on say, I-40 the more likely you would be to run into snow or ice which could hold you up for days. Like Mike, I don't winterize and you won't need to either if you can get this far south. Let me know when you plan on leaving.
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On 9/15/2022 at 1:00 PM, BillATX said:
Did you reuse the hardware to rehang the rod? I am having difficulty removing the piece of hardware that is screwed directly into the shelf . See attached pics.
Any suggestions for removing the screws that hold this piece of hardware?
I did use the same hardware except I replaced the rod with one a couple of inches longer to compensate for the angle and I removed the shelf to work on it. That way you can turn it upside down. That will possibly make removing the screws somewhat easier rather than having to work from beneath reaching up.
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About five years ago I changed ours to angle from the front right to the back left. This moved all the empty space from behind the clothes to in front of them.
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Jumping in late here. The Andersen hitch weighs 66 pounds and will have to be subtracted from your cargo carrying capacity.
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7 hours ago, Roger P said:
Hi everyone,
We’re from Eastern Canada and new owners of an Elite 2, #1120 and towing with a RAM 3500 Laramie Diesel, SRW 2022. We are snowbirds, and we travel, each winter, across USA for 6 months and we just downsized from a 35 foot Fifth wheel to an Oliver. We read many topics on towing and the WDH required or not and noticed that most of the owners of 3/4 or 1 ton trucks do not used the WDH. When i look in my RAM owner manual, they « recommend when towing a trailer over 5k pounds, to use a WDH « . I know that » recommended « is not « required » but i would like to have your opinion or advice on the liability in case of an accident that we can be involved in USA if we are not using the WDH when RAM recommended to use it? I know that it will depends on how a lawyer will present the case…… but we are struggling if we’re gone a use it or not!
Sorry if there are typo, i’m french Canadians!
Thanks in advance for your advice.
Roger,
Like many others here, I have gone through many tow vehicle iterations with our Hull #050. A Tahoe, Sierra 1500, Silverado diesel 2500 and now a Silverado diesel 3500 SRW. We’ve never used a WDH (probably should have with the first two).
I don’t know of any reason to have one with your big ole truck. The attorneys that weighed in are reassuring and my opinion is that you’ll be just fine without it.
As far as your English is concerned, you’re doing great. I’d like to hear most of us trying French-Canadian!
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6 hours ago, abelcermak said:
So, did they make such a calendar? And is there a 2022 version? I would like one too.
Since you failed to fill out your profile thereby providing us with an address and your IP address resolves to 185.128.9.59 - Ukraine
Should we just send it General Delivery?😉
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As I have stated before, chaining two surge protectors, one at either end of you power cord is not necessarily bad (although, I suspect there’s still a potential for gremlins) it is not without drawbacks.
Mainly, there’s the expense and trouble of dealing with two. I think you’ve made a wise choice.
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4 hours ago, SeaDawg said:
Do the newer trailers still have a progressive dynamics converter/charger?
Yes they do. I called the factory yesterday to see how the batteries are charged on the new trailers. They said it was the same set up as it always was. This is where your 120V breakers and 12 V fuses are.
Apparently, the Xantrex inverter/charger comes into play also as it functions as a combination of an inverter, battery charger and transfer switch in one complete system. When AC power is available, the inverter/charger recharges the house batteries. It also allows any surplus AC power to pass through and power downstream AC loads, such as a television set or microwave oven. When AC power is disconnected, the unit inverts DC battery power into AC electricity.
Trailers that have a front generator hook up port in addition to the standard side port also have a transfer switch to determine whether the outside power is coming from a generator or from shore. The default is generator.
It would take some testing to see how the two transfer switches act when used together.
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1 hour ago, SeaDawg said:
I "think" it will allow you to charge your lithium a bit faster. With proper settings. Since I don't have lithium, I'll leave it to others to decide. With more watts, you should get more amps.
Just a thought.
You will get more amps from a generator with a greater wattage rating. But those AC amps are not what’s charging your battery and they won’t speed up the process, no matter the type of battery. They are running the PD converter/charger onboard your trailer which is in turn suppling DC amps to the batteries for charging.
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4 hours ago, Cameron said:
I'm going to take this off on a little tangent, but I think it's relevant to some of the posts.
How quickly would a 1000w generator charge up my batteries? Does it make sense to get the 1000w or should I just get the bigger one so I'd have less run time (less noise!). Right now my goal is not to run the AC directly off the generator.
Most folks that have ever met me and seen my setup know that I would never be mistaken for a minimalist. That is very true so I won’t offer you an opinion on how big a generator to buy.
Basically using your numbers from the above post, I will create a scenario from which you should be able to make an informed decision about generator size. I am taking solar out of the equation and discounting all inefficiencies of the equipment. I am also assuming nothing is running except the Progressive Dynamics converter/charger. No lights, no water pump, nothing.
Let’s say you have used 150Ah out of your battery pack and want to replace them using only a generator. A 1000 watt generator putting out 120 volts is connected to your trailer. The 120 volts is fed into the trailer and is used by th PD 4100 series charger which, on the newer trailers, will supply up to 65 amps of charging power to the battery.
A rough estimate of time to fully replace the 150 amps is 2-3 hours. Buying a larger generator won’t accomplish this any faster, BUT it would allow you the convenience of running other things at the same time as charging OR perhaps just using it to run the AC. Which is a much more efficient way to run the AC anyway.
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Storage area for miscellaneous items?
in General Discussion
Posted
As I previously stated, "the 2023 Sequoia (in 2WD) will have a maximum tow rating of 9,520 pounds". I don't personally consider that, 'a great towing ability'. It's an OK towing ability and is probably adequate for an Elite II under most conditions. But, most folks aren't going to want a 2WD and will opt for a 4WD which will further reduces the towing capacity as will any of the options that we add to make our tow vehicles into something we actually want to own and drive.
Unless you are Scarlett Johansson or Audrey Hepburn, good looks won't get you too far down the road.