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Posts posted by ScubaRx
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On 1/26/2022 at 11:19 AM, Imelda said:
I am thinking the same thing. Diesel trucks are expensive to work on and I don't need my current tow vehicle that can put up to 19,000 lbs. to tow an Oliver2. So, I am back to mulling over the Titan XD but not sure if I need a 4WD. I plan to stay on pavement and the 4WD would add cost and more things to go wrong. Anyone got any thoughts on the 4WD option.
There is NO substitute for having the proper tools to do the job. Get the 4WD, even though you "plan" to stay on pavement. You'll thank us someday.
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It sounds like some of the LED's the that light's cluster have gone out. Unless you can see where they've become un-soldered you'll need to replace that light.
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Either of those areas should be relatively easy to access. There is an interior shell that forms the back of the upper cabinets. The 4 inch port in the forward end of the curbside cabinet will allow you access to all the wiring going to the switches mounted to the right of the entrance door. You can pull power and ground from that area.
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18 minutes ago, dewdev said:
I would suggest that you either talk to the Oliver sales people and ask them your questions or go onto the Oliver University forum for each system to check out the owner's manuals.
I would suggest that you do your own due diligence and research. Think about the type of camping you plan to do and make an informed decision based on it.
18 minutes ago, dewdev said:I prefer the Truma and its capability for endless instant hot water. Do the dishes and then two person taking a shower and you will not run out of hot water with the Truma.
Unless you plan to ALWAYS be in a campground with full hookups (water, electricity, sewer) this is not necessarily true. If you are boondocking, first you will run out of water, hot or otherwise and then run out of space to put the gray water (this will occur with either water heater).
18 minutes ago, dewdev said:It is no fun when you use up the first 6 gallons in a hot water tank and then have to wait for the water to heat up for the next shower.
We've never used 6 gallons of water to take TWO showers. You've just got to learn the way to minimize your water usage. For our style of camping (99% boondocking, it would never be worth the extra money). Besides, the regular water heater will have water hot enough to shower in about 10 minutes on gas. Plus, it can run on electricity also which the Truma can not do.
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On 1/26/2022 at 7:59 PM, Spike said:
Mossey, I think that I understand the bit about the placement of the solar panel alligator clips not engaging with the shunt. (My tech originally misplaced the wiring when he installed the system but corrected it after I discovered the problem.) Nonetheless, shouldn't the monitor at least register the battery voltage (up to 14.4 volts) and react accordingly?
I will attempt to post photos tomorrow.
Thanks a bunch for that link. I've bookmarked the site. I will explore it and possible post my issue there.
If it is wired correctly the system will "see" any external panels.
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Everybody talks about "overkill" like it's a bad thing. I love overkill, you can't have too much power and torque going up and down hills. and the longevity and mileage of a diesel is phenomenal. And besides all that, you already own this truck. I doubt anyone will trade even with you (maybe...) so how long will it take for the modest savings in gas vs diesel to surpass the price difference between the old and the new truck. Plus, you will be able to tell a big difference in your towing experience. I've towed our Oliver Elite II with three different vehicles: 2014 GMC Sierra SLT 1500, 2017 Chevrolet Silverado 2500HD High Country, 2022 Chevrolet Silverado 3500HD High Country. All were 4x4. The GMC was Gasoline, both Chevrolet's diesel. No comparison. If you do decide to downgrade to a 1500, be very aware of your cargo carrying capacity, you very well may not have enough truck to carry your gear and tow the Oliver safely.
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1 hour ago, johnwen said:
Thanks,
...I contacted OTT and was told to not cover the openings. It will void the warranty....
I think there was a mis communication between you and Oliver. I think that they thought you were suggesting covering the inside of the vent covers or the hole (openings) that they fit into. I think that you were referring to any gaps in the insulation (as I was) that seal the refrigerator to the hull.
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This is not the first time lately that I've heard a new owner complain about air entering the cabin around the refrigerator. Take off the upper outside cover and see if there is a gap in the insulation or the metal tape used to seal everything. Cover any holes with duct tap until you can get something better. I would start a service ticket also.
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8 hours ago, Jstone said:
...Our screen door binding is the only issue so far, so 997 is a good one!
In both of our Oliver's, a door binding has meant we have twisted the frame due to a poor leveling job. No damage has ever occurred, Just raise or lower one of the rear jacks.
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I've had no problems with my Mopeka system for the past three years or so. I do not like using my phone as a monitor for anything. I bought the wireless display and mounted it inside the trailer. I have to change the batteries at least once a year.
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On the surface, this looks like a good deal. It's only $30 more than on Amazon and you don't have to buy all the fittings and assemble it yourself.
However, this is the warranty you get with the Airstream model:
"Airstream is selling the Weber Q1200 Gas Grill AS IS, WITH ALL FAULTS. THERE IS NO EXPRESS WARRANTY COVERING THE GRILL; AND, AIRSTREAM DISCLAIMS ALL IMPLIED WARRANTIES, INCLUDING THE IMPLIED WARRANTY OF MERCHANTABILITY AND IMPLIED WARRANTY OF FITNESS FOR A PARTICULAR PURPOSE. Airstream also excludes all consequential damages. If you decide to purchase the grill you agree that Ohio law applies regardless of conflicts of law. You also agree that any legal action against must be commenced in state or federal courts sitting in Ohio."
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15 hours ago, Mike and Carol said:
I never run my jacks all the way down. I have 8” blocks for each jack and 20 big yellow legos. Total jack movement for any of them is just a couple of inches. Saves battery and reduces any damage if I decide to drive away without raising them. Hasn’t happened, but you never know. Mike
What a great idea. Everyone should take note here.
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John Davies, that bad boy is a real hoss. I have the same one except mine is the DCF899HB (hog ring anvil) and it has more available torque (700 ft-lbs) than my pneumatic DWMT70773 (650 ft-lb). I needed to remove some 3/8" lag bolts that had been embedded in oak for many years. the DCF899HB got the ones that were not buried too deep right out, the rest, it just snapped off where they went into the wood. I don't leave home without it.
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2 hours ago, Mattnan said:
Just please don't do what I did the first time we dumped. We raised the trailer at the dump station, emptied the tanks stowed all the hoses. We got in the truck and started to leave. Terrible noise!! We forgot to lower the Ollie and raise up the jack. The lower shaft was badly bent. Fortunately some of the guys working at the state park had a portable saw with a metal blade. We had to cut the shaft. We called the jack manufacturer directly as Oliver didn't have an extra in stock. We had it sent express to our next campground. We stayed hooked up that night. The jack arrived the next day and I installed the new jack. PIA but we learned a lesson early on and fortunately it only cost us a day and some $. No one got hurt. Embarrassing for sure. I was able to keep the barley used jack motor so I have a heavy working replacement with me if needed.
For very few $ Barker will sell you a new lower tube and you can fully repair that jack. It's an easy fix once you figure out how to get the two tubes apart.
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18 minutes ago, Mark Patricia said:
I have a friend who is still working. He has an old camper not an Oliver that he lives in for work. He developed a propane leak and didn't know it. The propane replaced the oxygen inside the trailer and he almost died. A word to everyone. Be careful.
He couldn't smell it?
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On 1/14/2022 at 12:34 PM, topgun2 said:
You keep adding more "stuff" and ScubaRx will have to start thinking about a bigger truck. 😇
Bill
This one big enough for you? We traded up to a 3500 from our 2500 to get more cargo carrying capacity this past fall. We are waiting on the topper for it.
We ordered it in mid June and picked it up the end of September. Since we ordered on the first day that 2022’s could be ordered, we got it before they ran out of parts.
We’ve had an electric lift in the Oliver garage for the past five years. We use it to lift and place all the heavy stuff.
Like the generator…
Or the toolbox…
And those propane tanks…
We also use it it lift the 12 volt Dometic refrigerator into the truck.
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I realize the OP is talking about her AGM FLA batteries. But, for anyone that might not realize the difference, the resting voltage of a fully charged LiFePO4 battery is 13.6V
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We own a 2017 Colorado SLT with the 2.8L Duramax. It has a towing capacity of 7600 pounds. I have always said that it would make the perfect towing vehicle for an Elite. Want to trade even?
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If you haven’t already bought this truck, at least get the model that’s rated for 7000 pounds of towing capacity.
If you already own this truck, my guess is you’ll keep it a season then trade it for something that’s actually suited to comfortably tow with.
Look at your cargo carrying capacity in either case.
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Very nice truck, you didn't ask (as there was no need to), but I can assure you that you won't have any trouble with either towing or cargo carrying capacity. My SIL and BIL live in Sandy Hook and they said they got a bunch of snow with more coming. You need to head South to the land of Mint Juleps and Tennessee sipping whiskey.
Congrats on your upcoming Oliver acquisition from Hull #050.
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9 hours ago, Steph and Dud B said:
The batteries are connected in series so the voltmeter agrees with your trailer battery monitor. 6.1v X 2 = 12.2v. ...
Dudley, you probably already know this, but for the benefit of newer owners who's 12VDC electrical knowledge may be a little rusty.
In Oliver's 4 x 6 volt battery package you have two sets of two 6 volt batteries. Both batteries in these sets are wired together in series to make a 12 volt battery (one wire from the positive terminal on one battery to the negative terminal on the other battery - think as if you're putting batteries in a flashlight, each battery's voltage is added to make the total). The voltage doubles for the set but the available ah remains the same.
Then, the two sets are wired together in parallel by connecting the positive and negative terminals. This keeps the voltage the same for the four batteries but doubles the Ah capacity of the pack.
This wiring scheme gives you a 12 volt system with a aH capacity of double the stated aH of any one battery. This is how many aH you can use before reaching the dreaded 50% point of no return.
Then, to properly connect the battery pack to your trailer the positive and negative wires should come off the opposite corners of the set of batteries. This will enable each battery to be discharged and charged equally.
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28 minutes ago, SeaDawg said:
...Do you have a breaker near the pd charger/converter to cut the power from the panels? We do, but I don't remember if we installed it, or if Oliver installed it, back in 2008. @ScubaRx would probably know, as your hull numbers are only 17 apart. If you don't have one, you can cover the panels with a dark packing quilt so they won't be making power, and I'd suggest you do that when you reinstall the batteries and connect the cables.
I'm also curious about the message on your display. Mine never shows "blue energy v4." It always shows whatever setting i was last looking at, instead. Maybe this is different in the newer remotes. Again, @ScubaRx or one of the other owners of newer systems may see that. I don't know.
There should be a large red rotatory switch near the charge controller. If you turn this off all solar input will be interrupted. On my unit this does not kill the power to the IPN Pro display.
About the IPN Pro display. That shown is a screen that would only be seen during boot up, whenever power to the screen had been interrupted and then restored. The photo would have to have been taken during this stage. On my unit that screen and green indicator light only stay on for about 2 seconds.
4 hours ago, Mike and Carol said:...Steve’s estimate of .4aH is a little lower than ours. If I turn everything off I still get .6 to .7aH draw. We store under cover so now I just turn the batteries off with a battery cut off switch that I installed. Mike
I've found that when I first turn everything off mine will show your 0.6-0.7 Ah draw, but a few hours later it almost always has dropped to 0.4 Ah.
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You need a bigger truck. What you're considering is basically impracticable, not safe and probably illegal in most states.
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You don't like the weather in the South? Give it a day or so. It'll be better (usually).
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Starlink goes mobile
in General Discussion
Posted
Mounted to the tow vehicle as opposed to the trailer makes this an interesting option.