ScubaRx
-
Posts
3,091 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
158
Posts posted by ScubaRx
-
-
6 minutes ago, Jps190 said:
********!!!! Is the wire made of gold? 😂😂
30 feet of 2awg red + 30 feet of 2AWG black will cost nearly $250. 60 feet of each would be about $470. The wire is not cheap, but I suspect that it is the labor that is tearing you a new one. Is there any reason you wouldn't want to do it yourself. I am about to do the same thing and I was figuring well under $1000 for materials. I can't afford the labor fee I would charge. The job is not technical or particularly difficult, but it is time consuming to do it correctly and there's not a lot of folks I'd trust to do this job like I would want it done.
-
2
-
-
On 7/15/2023 at 10:54 PM, SeaDawg said:
In all fairness, it is a bit of a pita to get under the small dinette table (in ours), but when and how often does it happen? A handful of times, for us, in 16 seasons.
Every trailer Oliver built starting Hull #001 has used that same distribution center. The door has always opened the the "wrong way". Our 2008 Elite and now our 2014 Elite II both have the same issues. For those owners that are not constantly updating electrical wiring and modifying circuits, like Sherry, it amounts to very very few trips down under the table. MY 16 Oliver seasons have found me under the dinette hundreds of times.
As an aside, for those of us who actually have a need to access that area, be it often or hardly ever, it's much easier to work in that area if you just break down the table and set it aside.
-
6
-
-
13 hours ago, Geronimo John said:
There are some learning curves with fabricating your own 4/0 cables. The below is the process that I have used successfully.
Specialty Tools Used: If I needed to purchase tools for a 4/0 AWG cable efforts, I would spend the bucks for that Klein Standard Cable Cuter and a Hydraulic Crimper (shown above), or the one like John Davies suggested some time ago
Amazon: TEMCO TH1818 Hydraulic Crimper
Summit Performance: Klein Tools Standard Cable Cutter 63035 (16.25” long)
4/0 Cable Fabrication Procedure:
I have found it very useful NOT to cut the copper bulk cable to length until AFTER you have completed the full lug insulation on one end. Failure to not do so will result in more cable wastage, and utterance of “Bad Words” as JD has mentioned occasionally.
That said, one "trick" I stumbled on to help with getting all the copper stranded cable strands into the lugs is related to how I strip, cut and insert the cable to the lug.
The amount of insulation to be removed varies by lug size and the length of the hole that your wire is inserted into. But for this description, let's say you want to have 3/4" of bare cable to insert into the copper lug. In this example I would:
- If the bulk cable does not have a perfect “clean cut”, then carefully cut it square with the cable cutter.
- Now mark the bulk cable with a paint marker ¼” from the end, and again at ¾” from the end.
- Use a tubing cutter (or a fancier insulation removing tool) circle cut the cable insulation (only) at the two marks.
- Only remove the ½” of insulation as you will be leaving that ¼” of insulation intact on the bulk cable.
- With the ½” section of insulation removed, now you want to loosen the ¼”" band of insulation by twisting the ¼” band of insulation on the bulk cable. Leave it in place to manage the strands of copper.
- Carefully done and you will have all the copper strands well managed by the ¼” band insulation on the end of the cut to length cable.
- Use a bench vice to hold your 4/0 lug. Since you have broken the bond of the ¼” band section of insulation, you can more easily insert the cable into the lug by pushing it into the lug as the ¼” of insulation retreats in front of the lug. As the ¼” band approaches the end of travel, remove it and you can finish insertion by twisting the cable into the lug as you push it. Only twist in one direction.
- Crimp the lug onto the cable.
- Now cut the cable to length and repeat the process on the other end.
NOTE: Always purchase extra cable and lugs. There is a learning curve involved.
GJ
For anyone this is or is anticipating making their own battery cables this is all VERY GOOD advice. Learn from John's previous experiences (I had to learn from my own mistakes thru the years).
If you already have a $150 utility cable cutter, you're in good shape. If not, I have successfully used a band saw to make a nice, square cut in 4/0 cables. No band saw either, put on your thinking cap or get out your charge card. Remember, the goal is to get as smooth and square a cut as possible on the end of the cable.
I use a small tubing cutter to remove the insulation also, but his method of leaving 1/4' on the cut end is brilliant and I guarantee you'll be hard pressed to come up with a better solution for getting all the strands into the lug prior to crimping.
I bought a hydraulic crimper off eBay years ago. I paid about $35 for it. This is a tool I thought I would use a few times and then it would sit on a shelf in the shop for the rest of my life. Not so, I have used it dozens of times for various things. Need to make a pinched locking nut? A 10 ton press will flatten a nut if you're not careful. The fact that I have it makes it useful for many tasks that require a lot of pressure that are difficult to do other wise. I would not be willing to pay over $50. You won't find $150 worth of usage out of it, or will you? If you do, the $50 model will do it just as well.
A bench vise is a very useful adjunct to this project. If you don't have one already, you now have an excuse to build a shop...so you'll have a place to mount that new bench vice.
-
6
-
Just now, Ronbrink said:
If referring to my phrase ‘table for two’, one table for two people, but added the ‘or three’ more to emphasize the 17” can cook enough food to feed more than just two. Did I just go down the rabbit hole?
I was referring to the photo you posted and I included with my inquiry.
-
1
-
-
56 minutes ago, topgun2 said:
Or, make sure that you get into the habit of using your emergency brake!
Our trucks automatically set them when parked on a slope.
-
2
-
-
2 hours ago, Ronbrink said:
Breakfast is my favorite meal to prepare, with smash burgers, steaks, fajitas a close second, followed by chili dogs and grilled sandwiches. I’ll admit, camp food is the best regardless of how it’s cooked!
Is this one table or two?
-
2
-
-
Just now, Liana said:
I use the one between the lav door and closet (isn't there another outlet *inside* the closet?), and I see from @Jason Foster's picture that two vents have been added, really good move!
@Liana Oliver has moved outlets around through the years. I have one in the basement, one on the outside and five more inside the coach and that's besides the two used by the refrigerator and the microwave. Some folks have them mounted in the sides of the nightstand also. At first they would just put them wherever you wanted them, but that went away when they streamlined the assembly line to not included anything that went outside of the normal layouts.
-
3
-
-
There is a quick fix available until a more permanent one is developed and implemented. The recommendation is to use a 20-30 foot length of stout rope and tie off the vehicle to the nearest tree. Sounds like a plan to me!
-
2
-
-
8 minutes ago, Geronimo John said:
Our 2018 OE2 has an outlet between the bathroom door and the coat closet. Perfect for plugging in a heater. We use that outlet a lot for many purposes. Did that feature evaporate on later models?
GJ
It did, although it would be very easy to add one there by pulling power off the one under the dinette.
-
1
-
3
-
-
For years, I've used a small electric heater plugged into the outlet under the dinette and sitting in the aisle. It can easily keep the inside temperature throughout the trailer at 70 or above. This is only when the trailer is at home and plugged in. Except for draining the tanks and blowing out the lines, the heater is our winterization. We'll be leaving for the desert southwest in a week or so anyway. For the rare instance that we find ourselves in a campground with electricity, I carry the small electric heater with us during the colder months.
-
4
-
-
On 6/22/2023 at 5:02 PM, HDRider said:
II am trying to get a sense of how much heat it generates.
I got mine up to about 650F while I was seasoning it. That should boil water or fry chicken in a skillet just fine.
-
1
-
-
On 12/31/2023 at 6:26 PM, Snackchaser said:
I pulled my propane tank out and was horrified at all the rust around the bottom ring of the tanks, and on the mounting tray. That area seems to attract dirt and it eventually wore away the paint and rusted. Sand paper and paint fixed the immediate problem, but I wanted to prevent it from happening again.
I started looking for some sheet rubber on Amazon, but then I discovered inexpensive rubber rings by Mopeka Products for$ 7.99. They are
designed to fit on the bottom ring of the propane tanks. They fit perfectly, and they also stop that cringe worthy grind when putting the tanks on pavement.
I bought a set of these about 4 or 5 years ago. I know they will outlast the expiration date on the tanks. Plus, they give you plenty of room underneath for the Mopeka sensors.
-
4
-
-
10 hours ago, Jason Foster said:
Wait, how do I achieve this level of Rabbit Holiness? This is literally my life dream.
Patience, young grasshopper, all will revealed to you when the time is right.
C.R.H.E.
-
1
-
6
-
-
15 hours ago, jd1923 said:
The Smart Plug looks to be perhaps a quicker connection?
Maybe by a few seconds.
Water tight?
Yes, as is the OEM.
What is the criteria? Is the OEM outlet/plug inferior?
The Smartplug is NOT Superior.
I like the screw ring on the OEM plug, it's in there, a SOLID connection.
Yep.
I'm with some others here, not my time and money. Sheesh, I've made a dozen upgrades in just 6 months, didn't think of this one. With solar we rarely connect, and the cord mostly sits in the Oliver trunk!
Same here. Our trailer has a 45' Cord attached to an electric reel mounted under the front dinette seat, so it's mostly stored away also. The only exceptions are when we are at home and at the annual Rally.
-
2
-
-
Could you have accidentally posted the error code incorrectly?
Error Code E513HFault E513H
This is a fault with the Over heat thermostat. It normally occurs when the heater is asked to heat the water on the HOT setting, and may be intermittent, but the system may be fine on the eco water heating setting or if the heater is just being used for space heating.-
2
-
-
2 hours ago, Mike and Jill said:
It's not the end of the end of the world but its getting down to the 40's tonight so some heat would be nice if anyone has a thoughts or has dealt with this code before
Thanks
You didn't mention the conditions under which you are camping. Are you boondocking or in a campground with full hookups?
If you have electricity, I would suggest going out and buying a small electric heater. It will easily heat your trailer to 70 degrees or more. We keep one with us at all times.
If you are boondocking, just put on some extra cover or clothes. You could still buy the electric heater and run it off your generator or for short stints off the batteries. How long you can run the heater is dependent of the type batteries you have.
We even carry a Mr. Heater Portable Buddy gas heater that runs off a small propane bottle or a larger tank with an auxiliary hose. We like to have every eventuality covered. I don't like being inconvenienced by something breaking down on the road.
-
5
-
-
While it would work right out of the box with virtually any RV, the EEL (Easily Engaged Lock) is marketed toward the marine industry. In looking at the stats, it doesn’t seem to offer any earth shattering benefits over the twist lock cord that came with our Oliver’s. You still have to line up the terminals, twist it into place and release the locking ‘wings’.
-
5
-
-
I took the time and read up on the 'Smart' Plug. I didn't find any evidence that the Smart Plug is a better product than the power receptacle that was supplied when the Oliver was delivered. But, wanting to give it the benefit of the doubt and in the interest of sharing accurate and reliable product information, I offer the following information:
From their website, under the heading About Smart Plug:
Our vision...
Smart Plug Systems is a privately held manufacturing firm specializing in power delivery systems. It was founded in 2007 and is located in Seattle, WA. Its flagship product, the SmartPlug, is a patented device positioned to replace the current power delivery system for RV’s, Boats, and a variety of specialty vehicles and miscellaneous industrial applications.
Every corporation has to have a Vision Statement, Right?
Designed to be versatile
Developing and providing innovative world-class solutions that make power delivery safer, more secure, and easier to use. Continuing our aggressive growth strategy and expanding far beyond the domestic recreational power delivery market to industries and geographic locations that can leverage our technology.
We’re just getting started
Establishing strategic partnerships and building long-term relationships with our suppliers, customers and the consumer. Sustaining a preferred work environment that will create positive share-holder value while maintaining a high level of innovation, quality, and customer service.
This nothing but corporate techno-babble and tells us nothing about the Smart Plug. Here is additional BS from their website...
Contrary to popular belief, the #1 cause of shore power failure and fires is not electrical shorting, but rather overheating caused by poor electrical conductivity.
This is very true...but, on our Oliver’s, not for the reasons stated below
How does this happen? The problems with many plug designs are that the shape of electrical pins allow for very little contact area, and the pins themselves are also largely responsible for bearing any physical stress placed on the cord (from constant movement of the boat, someone tripping on the cord, etc…)
This is partly correct. There is plenty of surface contact area on the standard Oliver supplied power cord. Last I checked these are NOT boats moving around while attached to shore power.
This results in the pins working loose, further lessening the precious little contact area they had to begin with. Furthermore, such loose connections allow for moisture intrusion and ultimately corrosion of the pins.
This does Not apply in our situations.
Arcing occurs and the connection heats up, scorches, and in some cases, catches fire. Because the current draw is unchanged, all of this happens long before a breaker or a GFCI can cut the power. Additionally, the old design can be very difficult to use in low light or hard-to-reach scenarios since the “L” shaped pin must first be located and then oriented before connection.
The actual #1 cause of shore power failure and fires is not electrical shorting, but rather overheating caused by poor electrical conductivity, not from the pins in the connectors but from the screw connections between the pins and the supply wires not being tight. This has been the source of the problem in every overheating situation I’ve seen or heard about concerning Our Oliver's.
Then I decided to go right to one of the vendor’s that supply this product for their say in the matter. In about an hour long chat session, this was revealed...
Ashley: Hi! Can we answer a question for you? If not, feel free to close out this box.
Steve: I am curious about your Smart Plug product. I am familiar with the plethora of other "smart" products like smart phones, thermostats that can be adjusted via an app on my phone, Alexa etc. What is it about this product that makes it Smart?
Ashley: Hi Steve!
Let me get you some information for youAshley: There really is no "Smart" Feature as you are thinking about, but here is the description: SmartPlug is the highest quality electrical plug in the RV industry. This is the ultimate solution to replacing your standard twist plug, and it completely eliminates typical heat issues due to poor electrical contact. The standard twist plug that comes on many RVs has problems with electrical transfer because of minimal contact from the plug to the inlet. The SmartPlug has 27 times more contact and this makes for efficient electrical transfer and drastically reduces the heat on the plug. If you have a standard twist plug on your RV then you need to get that changed to the Smart Plug today!
Steve: What is the amount of surface area that is contained in the Smart Plug in square inches? I'm confused about how their contacts are 27x larger than normal.
Ashley: Let me see if I can find you a video
I am going to post a link below to one of our Installation videos. Let me know if it helpshttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jTkd_nMW-sw
Steve : Let me take a quick look at the video. I have other questions.
Ashley: Ok, sure
Steve: This appears to be nothing more than an installation video. Can you tell me more about the claim that this product has 27x the surface contact area of other plugs. How was that determined. For instance, if a standard RV plug has say 2 square inches of surface area spread between the contact legs then your claim would be that your plug has 54 square inches. How is this possible?
Ashley: I am not exactly sure why the manufacture claims that. I am trying to find some more information on it.
Steve: OK, Thanks...
Ashley: "27x more electrical contact than the old twist type connector" This is all I can find; I am unable to get an exact explanation.
Steve: Thank you for all your help Ashley. But can we agree that this plug is really no better or worse than a standard plug and there is no way to cram in 54 square inches of contact surface area? Yes, No?
Ashley: Apparently, they are claiming that is 27x more that the "Old Twist Plug" According to your logic, no it does not make sense. However, I couldn't find enough of an explanation to really say one way or the other what exactly they are comparing it to.
Steve: Ashley, I want to apologize to you for putting you on the spot like this. I realize that you could not possibly know all the technical details of the products your company sells. I just could not find this information published anywhere, and I wanted to see if there was information I was missing. I'm sorry. You're a good sport.
Ashley: Absolutely! No need to apologize, I couldn't find it either and you brought up a very good point. It is extremely vague about what they are comparing it to. I would like to think I know enough about what we sell but sometimes, unfortunately, I met my match. Is there anything else I can help you with today?
Steve: No, we’re good.
Ashley: Ok! Have a good day!
I didn't find any evidence that this is a better product than the power receptacle that was supplied when the Oliver was delivered. If any of you want to change your plugs out, go ahead. Or, you could just make sure the screws are tight instead.-
2
-
11
-
1
-
-
When Hull #050 was built, an Electrical Management System was not an option (in fact, there were NO options). I did a little research in late 2014 and decided on the Progressive Industries EMS. It was available with an integrated or a remotely mounted readout. Since my plan was to mount the main unit under the rear dinette seat, I opted for the remotely mounted one. When it came in, I was astonished at how butt ugly the readout was. I wanted it mounted where it was easy to see, but only if I wanted to see it. I mounted mine up high inside the cupboard.
-
4
-
-
9 hours ago, ChrisMI said:
I would try hooking the generator up to the main power input and check the gen switch/circuit breaker.
The transfer switch (gen switch, if that is what you're referring to) does not come into play if plugging the generator into the side port. But, if you plug it in there and it passes power to the coach it validates what I said above, the transfer switch is bad.
-
2
-
-
40 minutes ago, rich.dev said:
Great thanks....we take delivery of our new 2024 Chev Silverado 2500 6.6L with 3658lbs payload on Saturday, a cap will follow shortly and a slide. Also, considering Line-X bed liner spray but not sure if really necessity with the cap.
The Line-X is probably not necessary with the bed slide and anyway, it further reduces your cargo capacity. The cap and the bed-slide will take about 5-6 hundred pounds of it anyway but they both are well worth the reduction, in view of security and ease of access to the contents. This will be a sweet set-up for you.
-
3
-
-
There is a switch on the EMS display that will allow power (from any source) to bypass the EMS. You can feel reasonably confident that the power coming from your own generator is safe and switch the bypass on so you can at least get power while you're figuring this all out. I can't see any reason that what the RV repair guy did could have caused this.
I assume you're using the front generator hook-up. There's a transfer switch (under the front dinette seat) that SHOULD activate once it senses power being applied to that port (you should hear a click from the contact points inside). If the transfer switch is bad that would be the problem.
-
3
-
-
7 hours ago, Geronimo John said:
Steve:
Good test for visual understanding of the problem. Not much clearance between our tires and fiberglass.
For discussion purposes, let's say are well away from any assistance. We hit something that destroys both right side tires. We only have a single spare tire. What would you do? I would:
- Try to slow down ASAP, deploy 4-way flashers, and quickly pull over if reasonably safe to do so. Deploy a visual warning well behind the trailer. Likely my wife with a red T-shirt and flag.
- Grab lug wrench and loosen both tires lug nuts slightly.
- Use Oliver jacks to raise the trailer tires off the ground on the blown side.
- Remove the blown tires/rims.
- Place dunnage between the springs and frame to try and keep clearance when lowered. ( I have 11 each 2"X6" short boards in a milk crate that I use for leveling OE2)
- Install spare tire and lower jacks so that the axle is supported by the dunage and frame
- Proceed slowly to a safer location and deal with the two blown tires.
What have I missed? What would you do differently?
GJ
I'm really glad you raised this issue. After playing with the tires as I described above, I (dumbly) really never thought about how to handle the situation should/when it ever occur(s). You bring up a very good and logical solution using your spare blocks of wood as dunnage between the springs and the frame. I think I'll try my test again, this time paying closer attention to what the clearances are but, this should work. I may make some custom blocks (two would be all you'd need) for the worst case scenario.
I'm sure you thought of this, but I most certainly would put the spare onto the rear axle.
-
4
-
1
-
2 hours ago, rich.dev said:
@ScubaRx it's been a few years but do you still have the same bed slide, any pictures?
I do still have the same bed slide but it is now mounted in a new one ton Silverado rather than the 3/4 ton Silverado it was formerly mounted in. We traded up from the 3/4 ton to the one ton to raise our cargo carrying capacity from 2100 pounds to 3700 pounds. We were about 800 pounds overloaded with the smaller truck. I'll try to get a few pictures up in a few days. I've also mounted a dedicated Battle Born Battery in the bed to take care of the power needs of our Dometic 75 quart refrigerator/freezer also mounted back there.
-
1
-
Twin bed sleeping Position?
in General Discussion
Posted
We feel exactly the same way you do about the way the trailer looks with the beds made as in your photo. But we wanted to sleep with our heads toward the galley so that we could watch the television. So, we compromised, We sleep with our heads pointed forward and place the pillows aft when we make the beds.
And, strangely, if either of us takes an afternoon nap, we do so with our heads at the rear.