ScubaRx
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Posts posted by ScubaRx
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21 hours ago, StillGame said:
That map pin in MA looks to be on Rt. 91. above Springfield That could make it either Camping World, or an independant dealer, Orchard Trailers.
The dealer in Massachusetts is Tim's RV in Erving, MA
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5 minutes ago, topgun2 said:
I doubt - very seriously - that it is Camping World.
Bill
I second that emotion.
Smokey Robinson - 1968
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3 hours ago, JWalmsley said:
👀
More details to come....
So stand by everyone, it looks like this is about to get a little more interesting.-
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54 minutes ago, Heather and Eric said:
Hi all, we are the second owner of our Ollie and it came with those little tire pressure monitoring system caps on the tire air pressure valves so you can read tire pressures from your cell phone but it appears the batteries need changing. The special wrench that we’re supposed to use to change the batteries is nowhere to be found. We think it’s a little black plastic handle looking thing.
Does anyone know where we might be able to obtain a wrench to change out these batteries?
Thank you!
What brand is your system?
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9 hours ago, John E Davies said:
...Do not be at all surprised if the fridge is scrap.
9 hours ago, John E Davies said:...Don’t discount the fire hazard, many RVs burn to ash from these absorption fridges.
...the Oliver factory installation is very poor, to say the least,
7 hours ago, John E Davies said:FYI, if yours is in great shape, (which I would doubt), installing a Fridge Defend system makes a lot of sense, but it cannot be installed into an early hull Dometic fridge without removing it completely from its compartment.
I'm considering these 'facts' to be just more of your "doom and gloom" and I recall asking you to cut them out since you've sold your trailer and don't really still have a dog in this race. Speaking of selling your trailer, you failed to let Oliver know about the sale. The need for this information by Oliver was outlined in the Classified Ad rules you agreed to when you placed the ad for the trailer you sold. You need to take care of that.
If you want to continue to contribute to the forum with comments or to answer questions, please do it without your usual negativity toward Oliver. This time, I'm not asking.
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3 minutes ago, topgun2 said:
Ho, ho, ho!
You do know that your response could be construed the wrong way by the PC. But in the vein of being all inclusive...
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Acetone and/or Goo-Gone will clean up the fiberglass.
FYI for everyone…There is nobody currently working at Oliver that was there when these early OEII’s were built. Jason has referred several folks to me for help in the last few years. I still have contact information for several former employees that were there when the trailer line resumed in 2013 and worked on for the next 5-6 years. They have provided valuable information to me in some instances.-
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3 hours ago, SNY SD UP said:
Peggy,
I am seeing a chrome/stainless steel magnetic disk (aligned with the with front of metal latch) with adhesive on the back that would adhere to the fiberglass ceiling. So when you lift it up, it would catch to the magnet. Like with all magnets it would need to touch most if not all of the metal latch to hold well enough to not come crashing down on your head. I do not believe this would not be too b'ugly. Some of the marine-type (SeaDawg, Are your ears perking?) folks may chime in here with resources/experience.
Bryan
In the very oldest Oliver's (2008-2009) the cabinets had two doors that slid on tracks rather than opening up or down. Mine would never stay closed during travel, so I installed magnets on the back of each of the sliding doors to hold them in place when properly closed. During the build of our current Hull #050 upon discovering the way the cabinet doors operated, I suggested to the then sales manager that they should open up rather than down. He didn't agree and that was the one thing I could not convince him was a bad idea. The idea of magnets holding them up is the best alternative to the way they are currently mounted that I have seen.
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1 hour ago, SNY SD UP said:
And with the molded ceiling curve to cabinet, that does not allow for any type of a magnet to flush fit to the existing metal latch mechanism.Still ruminating on this.
While you’re chewing your cud remember that good quality stainless steel has very little attraction to a magnet.
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On 12/2/2023 at 12:10 AM, John E Davies said:
I think it is a really bad long term policy. I probably would never have bought “Mouse” if the sale were processed through a stick and staple dealer. It is a moot point for me anyway.
John Davies
Spokane WA
You're correct, it is a moot point now. So please don't continue to rain down doom and gloom on the rest of us that are still owners. There are still lots of folks that love their Oliver's and many more wishing they could own one. Oliver is working through the same issues that many industries are, but at least they have a long term plan in place that is well thought out, has been years in the making and will succeed. Nobody is being forced to buy from a dealer as opposed to going to Hohenwald. I believe you've mentioned many times about your dissatisfaction of being so far from the factory. These new dealership relations will solve some of those problems. I have an extremely long (fifteen+ years) and close relationship with Oliver trailers as well as the Oliver Family and I can say with confidence that so far, their past business decisions haven't failed them and neither will this one.
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Why the sad face @John E Davies?
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1 hour ago, topgun2 said:
Be forewarned that I believe the gear ratio is something like 50 to 1. This means that if you have to use this manual method of raising and/or lowering your jacks, you will be turning that square stud a bunch of times.
Bill
Also, a standard 6 point socket will not work. You will need either a 8 point or a 12 point socket of the correct size. You can use your impact driver rather than doing it manually.
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The software that runs the Rewards Program has developed an issue and it has been temporarily shut down. Jason and Matt are working to get it back online as soon as possible. Sorry for the complications. Also, there are hundreds of people that think they are part of the program that have never registered with Oliver. You must register to be a part of the program. Procedure is as follows.
From the Oliver Forum Page...
On the selection line at the top of the page -----> Select HOME
On the selection line at the top of the page -----> Select RESOURCES
OF the selections on the right ------------------------> Select REWARDS PROGRAM
From the left Center of the page --------------------> Select JOIN REWARDS PROGRAMFrom https://olivertraveltrailers.com/
On the selection line at the top of the page -----> Select RESOURCES
OF the selections on the right ------------------------> Select REWARDS PROGRAM
From the left Center of the page --------------------> Select JOIN REWARDS PROGRAM-
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I just got off the phone with Oliver. I have confirmed that the first dealer is on board and now has the ability to start selling the Oliver Travel Trailers. They have two locations in Georgia. There are more dealers in the pipeline that will be located in other parts of the country.
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On 11/30/2023 at 8:31 AM, MAX Burner said:
That said, we typically use the adjacent Fresh Water port to fill the 32-gallon fresh water tank. Using an inline filter and flow meter (indicates how much water we've been using*), we'll fill the fresh tank until we notice water draining from the street side over-flow outlet. Someone please correct me if I'm wrong, but I don't believe this causes any dangerous over-pressure in the system.
Unless you are filling your tank from a fire hydrant, it would be virtually impossible to over pressurize the fresh tank. The overflow hose is 4x larger than the inflow hose. PEX tubing has a standard hydrostatic pressure rating of 160 psi at 73℉. In general, residential water pressure ranges between 45-80 psi. You shouldn't run into problems there.
However, from personal experience, about 8 years ago we stayed at a commercial campground in San Antonio. When we checked in, management warned us that the campground water pressure was about 90 psi and recommended we use a pressure reducer to protect the water lines inside the trailer. "No problems, I don't need that", I thought to myself. I hooked up the water, placed one of the blue water filters in the line, turned on the water and went around to the other side of the trailer and sat down in a chair. A little while later someone walking by said that I had water coming gushing out of the other side of out trailer. Upon examination, I found that the sonic welds on the plastic casing of the blue filter have given way under the pressure and it had exploded. I removed the remains of the filter and reconnected the water hose. No damage to anything else.
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These detector/sensor units can go bad, sometimes rather quickly. I spoke with another owner a few days ago and he stated that his CO detector had failed and he called the company that makes them for a replacement. Upon installing the new one it failed also. Another call to the company and another replacement to get it sorted out. He said the company was very easy to work with. Give them a call and I'll bet you get a new one right away.
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On 11/25/2023 at 9:45 AM, Scott and Frieda said:
One of the major reasons we bought the Oliver was knowing when it was time to sell, we could do it in a more personal way here. This is a terrible decision by Oliver Travel Trailers and I hope they will reconsider.
Are you selling already? Your trailer is less than two years old. Good Luck and remember to check in here from time to time. 😄
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Four six volt batteries would be wired as two sets of two batteries, each wired in series to create two twelve volt sets, but the amperage would stay the same as one battery. Those two sets would then be wired in parallel to keep the voltage at twelve volts. At that point, the amperage would double to that of twice the amperage of one of the batteries.
Take a picture of the wiring, take each battery and deal with it separately and follow the advice that @Rivernerd outlined above.
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6 hours ago, John E Davies said:
How do you like that finger tip dispenser design? Is it useful or a gimmick? I don't understand why anyone would want a pressurized container of this stuff, you only need a very tiny amount each time.
John Davies
Spokane WA
I’ve seen some gigantic O-Rings on heating/chiller piping and pumps in the maintenance areas of our hospital.
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8 hours ago, Scott and Frieda said:
One of the major reasons we bought the Oliver was knowing when it was time to sell, we could do it in a more personal way here. This is a terrible decision by Oliver Travel Trailers and I hope they will reconsider.
You’ll sell it faster on Foy Sperring’s FB page. After managing the classified section for about a year, I decided that only about 50-60% sold. Based on the number of hits each seller got, there didn’t seem to be as much traffic as I expected. Don’t anyone hold your breath waiting on Oliver to change their mind. That ship has sailed.
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The main reason Oliver started using the "touch" lights in the first place is because prospective buyers kept asking for them.
On our previous Oliver, 2008 Hull #026, each light was outfitted with a little rocker switch. We enjoyed being able to control each light individually. Also, the original lights used a 12 volt Halogen T3 Lamp with a G4 Bi-Pin Base rated at 10 watts. These bulbs drew about 0.8 amp each and put out a good amount of heat. Most of us early adopters quickly swapped the bulbs out with LED's drawing about 0.1 amp each. LED's were just coming into wide spread usage in mid to late 2008 and they were still reasonably expensive. I remember ordering enough bulbs to replace all the inside and outside lights and it costing over $120.
During our 2013 build, I was somewhat dismayed when I found out they intended to connect several lights together on a single switch. I convinced them to wire a switch placed right beside each of our lights. I love the lights in our current Oliver. There was a time around 2015 when Oliver got a bad batch of those lights and they started burning out quickly. Oliver came to the rescue with a bag of lights for each owner that said any of their lights had gone bad. Our trailer has now been on the road for 10 years and I've only ever had one to fail.
I like the idea of them going back to lights with integral switches.
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@jd1923 Is the valve with the blue housing a Misol brand or US Solid brand.
If it is a US Solid brand the threads will be 1/2" NPT (National Pipe Thread - tapered threads)
If it is a Misol brand be aware that the threads may be 1/2" BPT (British Pipe Thread - straight threads)
Both of these brands are manufactured in China. I'm pretty sure that neither brand valves are using lead-free brass. However, the US Solid brand does have a SS version available.
My original valves have BPT. knowing that there was a slight difference in the thread pitch, I used Teflon tape (several wraps) to make a watertight seal with the 1/2" NPT plastic nipples that I used to join the valves to the rest of the plumbing. I have never had any seeping or leakage, but I wanted you to be forewarned that it might be a good idea to seal those threads well.
I like your plan to also be able to control the valves in such a way that you can also use the system to suck antifreeze into the pipes. The use of momentary contact switches is clever as well. The reason I did not include these functions into my system is because I don't use antifreeze here in the Deep South. I just blow out the lines with air pressure and keep a small electric heater going during the colder months (December thru January) to keep the entire trailer including the basement at about 60 degrees. The reason I did not use momentary contact switches is because the electric valves I used do not have any power draw while they are at rest. I have recently installed a compressed air system in the trailer that lets me flip one switch and it opens two electric valves that allows 40psi compressed air into the plumbing system to purge all the lines and the water heater for my minimal "winterization." There are back flow preventer's in the air lines to keep water from entering the air system when in normal use. I also extended the air lines to quick-connects in the wheel wells to make the checking and filling of the tires easier.
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Check your rear gas valve. It sure appears to be partially open and may be leaking a little. Between the facts of propane being heavier than air and that you have a cap on the quick-connect fitting, it probably will not collect in the basement. You'll know it the first time the water heater or the furnace lights if it has.
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16 hours ago, jd1923 said:
Been thinking about this for a while, reading posts, and collecting parts. So, this is what I'm thinking (see pic). The OEM water pump is a basic model, at 55 PSI (not bad) and 3 GPM (pretty bad). I had the same model in our sold Bigfoot class-C, which I replaced as well. Now I will have 2 basic back-up water pumps! Those of you with newer models have an accumulator, older hulls did not.
When done, we will NEVER lift a mattress to switch a water valve. Some who know me, know that I already have a 35-gallon water tank mounted to my truck. We love our water out here, in the SW, where it is scarce!
I will increase the PSI a little to 60 and add volume 5 GPM (huge), also addind dual .75L water accumulators. Some may get worried re manufacturer specs, although design tolerances have considerable room, often up to 50%. I will add 9% more PSI and PEX is rated to 160 PSI (although not all the fittings are). We run our home at 60 PSI water pressure. Take a look! Please let me know what you think. I'm tearing old parts out asap tomorrow! 😋
I changed my valves over to electric about 6 years ago because of the difficulty of changing them from Normal flow to Aux Fill. You can vastly simplify that aspect of your project by using two of the 3-way valves and only one DPDT (wired for reversing) switch.
Rocky Mountain Spotted Fever (RMSF) - Just a reminder...
in General Discussion
Posted
Thanks for the reminder. Good advice everyone.