wolfdds

I just received my new Starlink Gen 3. I mostly boondocks and thought it would be a waste of power to convert DC to AC to DC to power the Starlink. I found a device that will convert DC 9-36V 15A to DC 46V 3A through POE. It also has a built in switch to deliver the internet signal to the router of your choice. (XLTTYWL Starlink V3 Poe Injector, 150W 2 in 1 GigE Passive & ESD Protection Starlink 12v Conversion Kit with Starlink DC Step UP Converter DC 9-36V/150W for Starlink Gen 3 Dishy) I am using a mini travel router (GL.iNet GL-AXT1800 (Slate AX) Pocket-Sized Wi-Fi 6 Gigabit Travel Router, Extender/Repeater for Hotel&Public Network Storage, VPN Client&Server, OpenWrt, Adguard Home, USB 3.0, TF Card Slot) uses a USB C power source DC 5V 3A. I wired a PlusRoc Waterproof 12V/24V to 5V Converter DC-DC Step Down Module Power Adapter Compatible with Raspberry Pi 4, Cellphone, Car (USB Type-C Connector) to power the router. I mounted everything on a board and powered it from the DC fuse box under the dinette. I will add a waterproof Ethernet port as shown in many other Starlink threads. It powered up and so far is working great. Even the Starlink mobile app recognizes the signal from the mini router and allows all the Starlink utilities to be used. I had a Victron Solar Panel Charge controller for a suitcase panel in the spot where I mounted the board so I just moved that to the board as well. I love not having to turn on my inverter to run the Starlink dishy.

I was able to find the part with Mike Sharpe's help. I am attaching the Barker parts list he sent me as a reference. He marked part #20 but that is the light switch. Part #9 is the up/down switch. Here is a link to the place I bought it from: https://pdxrvwholesale.com/products/barker-jack-up-down-switch-736-2300

Here is the update: I did the vinegar treatment to my water system today with great success!. The bathroom faucet is working perfectly now. I was amazed how fast the treatment solved the problem, the vinegar was only running through the faucet for about 15 seconds when the pressure started improving. However the toilet valve remained stuck open. I changed it out and all is good. The toilet valve was filled with debris...but it was easy and cheap to replace.

So it seems like the pressure to the toilet resolved but at the same time the valve stuck open. So I do think some debris has gotten in the water system which has effected the water faucet and the toilet valve. The toilet valve is easy to replace so I am going to do that...the faucet is not easy to replace so I am going to try the vinegar solution in the water lines to see if it will clear the faucet blockage.

My tongue jack toggle switch stopped working in the up position this weekend. So I was not able to raise my camper. Luckily the bottom half of the switch stilled worked, so I could lower it. As an FYI: If you switch the red and black wires around it reverses the action of the switch so the down position becomes the upward movement. I was able to rewire it back and forth to get my camper hooked up using the motor. Having the inline fuse right there to cut the power off/on while switching back and forth was convenient. (obviously it could be done manually with the crank as well but then I would not have had anything to post). 🙂

I am having the exact same issue...no pressure to the toilet or bathroom sink/shower. Was there a resolution to this issue? I did not see it in the thread?? I do not think my problem is a buildup of calcium or the screens as I have checked both??

Does anyone know where to buy replacement rubber strips and the felt sides for these windows? It was pouring out and our windows were leaking, in desperation I pulled the gaskets and felt but pretty much ruined it getting it out. The good news is that I was able to stop the leak after pulling out the gasket and cleaning the weep holes. Any info on buying new parts to replace the ones I ruined would be appreciated.

Spray nine. https://www.spraynine.com/

@topgun2Thank Bill. I am guessing it must be the ground wire. Just coincidentally happening when the trailer had shifted while on the tongue jack. I appreciate al the feedback from everyone. DW

@SeaDawgIt shifted when I raised the camper to detach it from the tow vehicle. The camper just moved back a small amount until the tire chuck engaged fully. When it happened the light no longer worked as well (so no power). I removed the cover manually raised the camper and manually lowered it back onto the tow vehicle hitch. Once the weight was off the tongue jack the power instantly came back on. The first time it happened I could not find a reason the power was out (ie: Blown fuse) but it started mysteriously working again after the weight was off of it. Perhaps there is a short somewhere it has only lost power those two times??

This has happened two times to me. Our Ollie had shifted a bit while on the tongue jack and the jack lost power. There must be a sensor in it that cuts off power if there is torque pressure on it.

Also if you have the Xantrex Freedom X 3000 you might experience your Honda 2000 getting overloaded. This happened to me. You can change the Xantrex Settings to lower the draw and eliminate the overload. To do this: Turn on your inverter Hold the bottom button for 3 seconds until the readout changes to [00] 1 Press the middle button (^) to toggle through the settings until you get to [28] 25A Press OK until 25A is blinking then press the middle button (^) to toggle through to change the setting to 15A. You will have to go all the up to I think 50A to get back to the lower numbers. This will lower the draw to keep the generator from getting overloaded. When you are back to a 30A power supply you should change this setting back to 25A so your batteries will charge fast.

I just traded in a 2012 Toyota Tundra 5.7 L for a 2022 Tundra 3.5 L V6 Twin turbo. It is working great! Big improvement in gas mileage without the Ollie I'm getting 20 mpg in the city, with the Ollie about 13 mpg. I did not have a problem with the old Toyota and the new one is better.

Not sure if this has changed since my 2018 LEII but we do not have a light in our pantry. I have been through a couple of stick on lights and finally found one I like. Sunbeam+ Under Cabinet Light. It comes with adhesive metal tabs the light is magnetic and sticks to the tabs. It needs to be easily removed because it recharges with a USB type C plug. It is motion activated and turns off automatically after 20 second. It has three color options, light blue, amber and white./ $22.00. I will update this post after traveling to update how long it lasts on a charge and if it falls off the magnets during traveling. https://www.acehardware.com/departments/home-and-decor/novelty-items/miscellaneous-novelty-items/6012170 lightvideo.mp4

SO I have traveled a few times since the Andersen Anti-sway mod. Everything is working great, I have experienced zero issues while towing. However while the mod creates plenty of slack in the chains it adds a substantial amount of weight to hold up while you are hooking the whale tail. I am adding a photo here of an additional "life hack" that I created. Using the leftover chain and pieces of the cut links I hung the weight from my utility box using the safety latches. What a dream, now the hookup is truly effortless!!

Here are the photos of the final wiring. I used the Red (spliced on AC side to white) and Yellow (spliced on AC side to orange) thermostat wires. As you can see in the photo the blue/white was the 12 v and the solid blue was the wire to the heater as @Minnesota Oliconfirmed. I checked with a volt meter and connected them at the AC side to confirm the heater would turn on. On the Tstat side the wiring is self explanatory from the picture. The only casualty in the install was blowing the 7.5 A fuse which is located under the dinette. After closing everything up and THEN putting in the new fuse so I would not blow it again everything is working great. What an excellent upgrade the low profile inside portion along with the reduction in operating noise was well worth it. BTW: if you are in the metrowest Boston, MA area and need any RV repairs; I used TRIC Mobile RV to do the heavy lifting to remove and replace the actual AC unit. https://tricmobilervrepair.com/ They did a fantastic job so I would definitely recommend them.

Yes, Thank you @Minnesota Olifor confirming. I will update with new photos when it is complete for reference for the forum.

@Jps190 My trailer is a 2018. I could not find the spliced wires under the heater that you show in your picture. I am going to post a picture of the wires that were cut from the AC and the current thermostat wiring. @Minnesota Oli or anyone else can you confirm which wires to splice together to eliminate the LCD control and wire the simple Emerson Thermostat. Thanks. The wires shown here pretty much the picture from Minnesota Oli with the exception the red connected to the white/red. Also he describes doubling up the wires from the thermostat but my thermostat only has three wires (yellow, red, green). It looks like only the green and yellow Tstat wires are in the wiring harness that is at my AC end.

@Spike do you know any of the specifics regarding wiring the Emerson non-programmable thermostats? I have just replaced my Dometic AC with the low profile Houghton. The AC is running great using the remote but I now need to rewire/install the Emerson Tstat. Anyone that can provide wiring information would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

Thanks for the great idea. I am attaching a picture of my results.

That's a lot of moving parts! What could go wrong? Lol

Storage is a premium in the Ollie's but I would give up the closet for a separate shower.

I agree it is very simple and easy, especially with the boondocking port. I use a hybrid method blowing out the lines and then filling them back up with antifreeze. I like to just make sure the lines are all antifreeze with no water diluting it. But, I live in Massachusetts and it can stay below freezing for weeks. I would be leery of just trying to blow out the lines and not using anti-freeze, I am not sure this would get the water out of the pump.

I agree with the sentiment: If you are flying solo the LEI is much more manageable. I had a single axel 17' Casita for 11 yrs it is similar to the LEI in size. For that size trailer a double axel is not necessary.

I have a 2018 LEII that I pull with a Toyota Tundra 5.7L. I have the anti-sway hitch. As John eluded, I have never weighed anything. I have the front utility tray loaded with a big cooler full of beer and ice everywhere I go (It probably weighs 75 lbs by the end of the weekend just from melted ice). We also carry a bunch of mostly unnecessary camping gear in the bed (of unknown, but significant weight). I have never had a problem with sway or porpousing. I would say my biggest concern is with my brakes.