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I thought maybe more people were using covers over their fans. In researching on other forums, it's seems like 99% of people who have absolutely love them. Also, it appears that both Maxxair and Fantastic have excellent customer service reputations. Performance-wise, the Fantastic 6600 has lower power consumption and 14 variable speeds but would require the rather bulky FanMate 800 to remain open in the rain or on the road. The MaxxFan has the advantage of an available LCD wall control with thermostat...set the temp and it does the rest. That also means I'd be dealing with 3 thermostats (fan, A/C, and heater)...could start to look a bit cluttered near the sink, since that's where I usually see them mounted. I think I'll be going with the MaxxFan, pending feedback from the factory, based mostly on aesthetics and the fact that I don't particularly like after-market solutions if it can be avoided. As far as I can tell, it wouldn't require any additional prep changes. Additionally, I'm have an amplified TV antenna installed by the factory (in lieu of the King Dome), and the low profile of the MaxxFan will be less likely to interfere with reception. Thoughts, anyone? Does this sound like a good idea?

Actually, I believe the rear window is an awning window, required for emergency egress I assume. Could someone confirm that at least this awning window can be cracked open during the rain, without the need for an aftermarket cover? And how about traveling with a window cracked open a little...is that a problem?

In browsing through some photos, I noticed a fair number of people have added what I assume to be MaxxAir vent covers over the stock Fantasic vents. I have already upgraded to the Fantastic model 6600 (on paper...nothing's built yet), but maybe a cover would be nice to allow the fan to stay open during the rain. Like many others, we will also be traveling with a dog, so being able to ventilate during rain events is a concern. Alternatively, it looks like the MaxxFan would be an all-in-one solution, replacing the Fantastic fan altogether. It's also available with a fancy digital wall control. I've never had one, so I'm curious what people think would be best for our Oliver.

Doug, I had the same question about the water fill and asked Robert about it last week. In order to use the exterior fitting near the bottom of the trailer, yes, the water needs to be under pressure. However, there also a way to fill the tank from a water container by utilizing the water pump and a hose fed through a window to the outside of the trailer (to avoid having to carry the water container inside). Maybe not as convenient as simply pouring it in a fill port, but at least it is possible.

Thanks, mountainborn. It sounds like the charge wizard is designed to prevent overcharging by going to 'sleep' mode when the batteries reach full charge. If that's the case, there shouldn't be any reason to unplug the trailer at home, since the charger should only use electricity when it periodically comes out of sleep mode. Since I already have a weatherproof 30amp outlet on the house, having a permanent hookup would be the most convenient solution anyway. Does the fact that I'll be using lead-acid batteries make them more susceptible to over-charging, compared to AGM's?

Congratulations on your new Oliver, Steve...mine's just going into production now. And thanks for posting your observation re: the frig. I've personally never heard or experienced this problem, but my previous trailer had a top-venting frig. Doug, I think the fan you provided a link for is a perfect solution, and one I might add as well. It's certainly an inexpensive fix. And, it looks like it can easily be added to existing Olivers, provided there is access to 12V power in that area (which I assume must be the case).

Sounds like a nice setup, Doug. Though I'm surprised you're buying new Trojan T105's when you've got perfectly good Lifeline AMG's to spare. I'm also going with Trojan T105's, though the best price I've found locally so far is $120 each. Just so you're aware there's also a T105 Plus, which is the same battery with flip-top watering caps (supposedly for easier topping off and less spillage). I'm assuming the Trojan's should be purchased with the low profile terminal (LPT), which has a threaded stud? Since off-grid camping will probably be a rare event for me, I'm just going to stick with the standard charger. It is a smart charger with a passable amount of amp power, and that's good enough for me. I'm considering keeping the trailer plugged in at my home to keep the batteries at full charge during periods of non-use. Any reason NOT to do this, other than the cost of electricity? As a compromise, maybe plug in for one day every couple weeks? What are the rest of you (without solar panels) doing, if anything?

Doug, please check your 'private message' inbox.

Forgive my ignorance...what exactly are 'dirt dobbers'? About the only worries I have is keeping the wasps out in the summer, and keeping the mice out in the winter.

Doug, you're absolutely right...reusing your Lifeline's would probably warrant a charger upgrade. But, I was also thinking the credit to delete their standard batteries and standard charger would help offset a portion of the cost for the upgraded charger. Maybe you should have Robert run the numbers and see how large the gap really is.

Doug, How about just simply taking 2 of the batteries out of your 5th wheel to use in the Oliver, and save yourself the extra $600. I can't imagine the resale of your 5th wheel being affected by whether it has 2 or 4 batteries. Thanks for clarifying what you meant by 'true deep cycle'...didn't know there was dintinction between the two. I might price out the 6V Trojan's, but I'm definitely going to stick with the standard charger and some sort of lead-acid battery bank. I've got to control the cost of my options too, and these things are easily upgraded later if necessary.

Though we aren't SCUBA divers (yet, anyway), we consider ourselves half-amphibian too. We take our 16.5' jetboat to a nearby lake probably every other weekend. We also try to make it down to the Caribbean every year to go sailing on a bareboat charter. Our last trip was in January to the islands of St. Martin, Anguilla and St. Barts...just the two of us. What a beautiful part of the world!

Doug, I sure hope you can make it work with the RAV4, for the simple fact that you'd be using probably 1/3 the fuel. Plus, you'd have an easy little "car" to cruise around with after unhitching. But, at least you've got a "Plan B" in case you find the towing characteristics unacceptable. I was towing our previous trailer right at the max. capacity of our TV, and it was no picnic...not because of a lack of engine power, but because of the relatively short wheelbase. As a result, we never travelled outside our own state. Has anyone actually weighed their trailer loaded up ready for camping? 3,000 lbs. maybe?

Doug, For now, I am also going with the standard charger and batteries, largely based on Robert's recommendations. But my situation is different, as I have crossed the solar option off my list due to my occasional use of the trailer. If I do any off-grid camping, it'll be with a generator (and functioning A/C). I'm quite sure that the stock charger IS indeed a 3-stage charger, so it might be good enough. I wasn't aware that the stock batteries were not deep cycle...that's strange. I guess I better consider alternatives if that's the case. Thanks for the heads up. I certainly don't want to be replacing batteries more often than necessary.

FYI, I did confirm with the factory that the hitch requirement is NOT an error. It comes from the fact that they require a class III hitch, which by default begins at 5,000 lb., if I'm not mistaken. Given the actual weight of the trailer (both dry and gross) this seems like a rather large 'safety factor'. But, I really had no legitimate reason to contest this, as my TV already meets this requirement. Plus, a debate over the appropriate margin of safety is highly subjective and would likely lead nowhere. For anyone that falls below the hitch requirement, I suggest you speak with the factory for further clarification.

Just to follow up on this topic, it appears that the factory is already working on a solution for a receiver. They would rather not install a custom bumper-mounted receiver with limited capacity, as this would allow a potential future owner to use the receiver in way that was never intended (is tandem trailering even allowed anywhere?). Therefore, I'm going to wait and see what they come up as their standard receiver option. If that doesn't pan out, I might also reconsider the tongue basket.

DougI, I don't know much about your RAV4, but I HIGHLY doubt you are pre-wired for a brake controller. You typically only find that on full-size pickups and SUV's. Therefore, your installation will likely require splicing into the brake pedal switch, connecting a hot and ground somewhere, and possibly running a brake wire back to the 7-pin plug. If that's true (that you are NOT pre-wired), the price you quoted does not seem high. But, this type of work requires a bit of attention to detail, and you may not want to select the installer based soley on price.

If I could go back to the statement about gas pressure, shouldn't the quick-connect be designed to delivery full, unregulated tank pressure? Doesn't every appliance (whether BBQ, generator, whatever) typically have it's own regulator to step the pressure down to what it needs? Or, is it more complicated than that?

Based on my limited understanding of the Oliver frame, I believe that the bumper covers the entire depth of the frame rails, making the attachment of receiver tubes on either side of the rails fruitless. I think that's why Steve had them welded to the underside of the frame rails, so that the custom carrier he is fabricating will slide in directly underneath the bumper. Either way, I really don't want to do a custom carrier if I can avoid it...that would likely get costly, since this is not something I could do myself. FYI, I found a rather nice aluminum carrier at Northern Tool today. It has a rather stout 2" square tube for the mount (and nearly 1/4" wall thickness!), but the standard installation requires bolting on 2 additional sections of steel tubing which also allows for a swing-up position when not in use. I would rather try to make it work without those steel pieces and have a direct connection to the bumper-mounted receiver...assuming I'll still be able to angle the bumper down far enough to access the waste hose. Being aluminum the carrier only weighs 42 lbs. and the dimensions are approx. 4' wide and 2' deep. We'll see how far this idea goes...

I am also envious of what you got there! Those panels fit a lot better than I would have imagined. Are those the AM100 panels, and did Oliver fabricate the custom mounting hardware? I couldn't tell from your photos...where exactly does the wiring penetrate the roof? Would it be feasible to remove the panels, say for seasonal storage? Thanks for sharing!

I don't mean to cause trouble with this post, but I was a bit alarmed to read the following at the bottom of the preliminary invoice I recently received: "HITCHES REQUIRED: 17' Trailers: Hitch rated @ 5000# with a 400-500# tongue load". If true, this is important information for potential customers to know BEFORE placing an order. Fortunately, my TV does meet this requirement (just barely); however, I've read in other posts about people with aspirations of towing an Oliver with an Outback, Rav4, etc. The only explanation I can think of is: 1) it's simply inaccurate, 2) the GVWR of the trailer has actually increased (which is a good thing, whether you need it or not), or 3) they are being extremely conservative for legal reasons. I'm hoping to clarify this with the company soon, and I'll share what I learn. Or perhaps BuffaloBob would like reply here? From my point of view, it is entirely the customers responsibility to determine the appropriateness of their tow vehicle, using accurate weight information from the manufacturer.

Thanks for explaining your set-up, Steve. I'd prefer to buy an 'off the shelf' aluminum cargo carrier, so that will require a different solution. My initial thought was beefing up the rear bumper and attachments to the frame rails if necessary, such that a 2" tube could be cut and welded through the center of the bumper. That would be a relatively simple modification, but I have concerns over the suitablility of using aluminum as the receiver tube. I've seen ball mounts made from aluminum; however, I've never seen anything other than steel used for the receiver. Like you, I'm not looking to place a lot of weight back there, so maybe it's o.k.

I haven't had the chance to speak with Robert either yet...considering our late pickup dates, he's probably got more pressing issues to deal with. It seems the first thing we need to know is the dimensions of the space where the stock charger sits. Then, we can hopefully find something to fit, assuming the stock unit is inadequate. If you've already got a nice converter/charger, I'm sure you like to be able to re-use it in the Oliver. I doubt you'd recover the full value if sold with your 5er. I also feel I can make do without a high-watt inverter, which should also encourage energy conservation. Like you said, those high-power devices can always be just plugged directly into the generator. Thanks for the tip on factory-refurbished units...I can't believe what some of those units (especially the true sine wave ones) cost!

Good questions, DougI. To add to your ones regarding the King Dome, I'd like to know if this unit also has an over-the-air HDTV antenna integrated somehow. The reason I ask is that I'm probably going to delete the King Dome, but I still want the ability to receive over-the-air broadcast when coverage is available. Regarding the space between fiberglass shells, I was told there was around 1.5 inches. However, at certain openings they add reinforement/blocking which nearly eliminates this air space. Contrary to what I first believed, there is no insulation between the shells; rather, the insulation (ceramic) is integral to the fiberglass construction itself (both interior and exterior shells). That's what was explained to me a couple weeks ago...hopefully I understood correctly.

DougI, are you not also planning to upgrade to a quality converter/charger, which would then require the deletion of the power reel for space reasons? Perhaps you have found something that fits in the location of the standard charger? Based on your recommendation in another thread, I'm also considering a smart charger and battery monitor; however, I'd rather keep the power reel if possible. For those that have the power reel, I assume you can use one hand to control the switch and another to drag a towel on the cord to wipe off any water/dirt before it enters the trailer? I'm assuming that this would be a difficult area to clean otherwise.