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wyofilm last won the day on March 28

wyofilm had the most liked content!

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  • Do you own an Oliver Travel Trailer, other travel trailer or none?
    I own an Oliver Travel Trailer
  • Year
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    Legacy Elite II
  • Floor Plan
    Twin Bed Floor Plan
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  1. In the gallery photos on the Lock & Roll hitch manufactures website, only small trailers are shown. The hitches appear to be rated for 11000# trailer weight and 1100# tongue weight, but I'm still wondering about the size of an Ollie.
  2. STEVEnBETTY- I tested with and without shore power with the same outcome. I will look into your suggestion. Thanks, Jason
  3. John - Thanks for the links. Just the type of info I was looking for. I agree with you about propane appliances ... For the furnace my first step will be take the trailer down below 5000 ft. Jason
  4. P.S. I have repeatedly bled the gas lines by turning on the stove top burners. Gas is turned on!
  5. I'm back for some great insight. I haven't been able to get our furnace working, yet. Our 2020 EII Oliver has a Dometic (formally Atwood) DFSD 20111 furnace. **I'll get my Oliver gripe out of the way first: their online manuals don't include any furnace manual and of course I didn't receive hard copy manuals with the trailer (online manuals only?). ** When I go to engage heat from the thermostat, I have fan on 'auto' and set a heat temp well above ambient. Fan will kick on for about 10 sec or so. I have had the same results several times. If I look at the furnace by removing the outside cover I see a single flashing light, the code for the flashing is 1 single flash every 3 seconds. From the Dometic manual for this furnace, I see that corresponds to a Limit Switch/Airflow problem. If I turn the unit off, then on, I get the air running for about 10 seconds or so, at which point the unit cuts off and the indicating light comes back on. Here is the rub: we live at 7300'. I have read the previous thread on the Oliver site (observing this problem). Some owners have had no problems, other have. So here is my question (finally!): are my symptoms consistent with this furnace not functioning at high elevation? Is there an adjustment that can be made to rectify the problem? Are there better high elevation furnaces out there? For the record no where in the manual or on Dometics site is high elevation discussed. However, the indicating light (Airflow problem) would be consistent ... I think. Thanks for any help.
  6. WhatDa - Thanks for the overview. I agree with many of your points, especially the limited range. In my neck of the woods the low temps and remote location turn DEF systems into a liability. I tow stock and flatbed trailers with a Ram 3500, which is of course well suited for the purpose, but DEF systems don't always like extreme cold temps (not to mention cold morning diesel starts!). It is my dream to be rid of diesel trucks for their modern liabilities. The torque of the gas engines won't match the diesels, but the ford 7.3l might be adequate. We'll see. Many of my neighbors won't buy modern diesels because of their modern reliability problems. They just search out older diesel trucks and put some money into them. That strategy won't work forever. But of course I have the issues with tractors ...
  7. Has anyone test driven the new F250 7.3 L gas? Some day I would enjoy getting rid of my modern diesels.
  8. Despite the faulty switch, our new Oliver is highest quality camper I've every been in. Many years ago we rented a couple RVs. They got us there and back again, but they were garbage. We've owned a Scamp trailer for 9-10 years, but we have completely outgrown it. That Scamp is a joy, but sadly we've put so many rough miles on it, is has basically rattled away into a bucket of parts. One foot into the Oliver made it clear to me that it is another step in quality above the Scamp. 99% of RVs out there are complete junk. And while I can't know that I won't stumble onto another problem, I can't wait to bounce down rough roads with such a solidly built trailer.
  9. gatorewc - Not having the lights work took a bit of shine off the new trailer, but as I said above the hull and frame is amazing. As someone mentioned above it is possible the switch was working during qc checks, but failed later (during the road trip out here). If this is the only problem I have, I won't mind. It wil be hard to test everything until winter ends.
  10. Update: With OTT's help I was able to determine the 'Master Switch' is bad. Therefore, it will be an easy fix. They will send to me a new switch in the mail, along with a cover to the light in closet which is missing. The switch turns on two circuits simultaneously. The current switch fails to close one circuit. By jumping across the switch I was able to confirm that all my lights work. To other 2020 E2 owners, I learned that the wiring schemes are a bit different from early 2020 to later 2020 trailers with regard to the lights. In the end, slot 12 is now used for some lighting, but mine wasn't wired this way despite the new labeling. Also, they should label the in interior courtesy light switch it just sits there all alone on the wall below the pantry. This is especially true since the 2020 manual says that the switch is located on the Main Switch panel instead of its true (and better location) near the pantry. On to testing other systems ...
  11. I contacted OTT this morning and we will talk tomorrow again with about the problem. I didn't have much time today, but did see that the main switch at the entrance (2020 trailer) was acting wonky, even with the two light banks that do work. Looked in the access port to the back of the panel and wow! it is a mess o' wire. Fortunately, it looks like that whole panel comes off so at least access won't be too bad if I have to go in there. From looking at the 2019 manual, it is clear that OTT reworked 12V electrical. For example, on our trailer there is no switch panel to the right of the galley. It looks like the fuse box is in the attic for 2019, but the fuse panel for 2020 is in the dinette area. It looks like their new way removes all previous 3-way switches. One thing that I learned today is that the lone switch on the wall beneath the pantry is for interior courtesy lights (which don't work).
  12. I will. It was too late when I stopped working on the problem to contact OTT. I expect that they will be attentive and helpful. I have to say the bones of trailer (frame/body) is amazing. I am suspecting the parts that change yearly and differ from customer to customer might not be as robust. I will update everyone when this is worked out.
  13. Fuse position 12 is clearly labelled 'Cabin/Cabinet Lights' /5A. We didn't get the auto-drain option. I tried a 5A fuse in position 12. It didn't work. Position 11 is labelled for 'Optional St Awning' (an option we didn't get.) I will look for a light in the pantry ... I'm now guessing that they don't have wiring diagrams because some decisions are made on the fly - like if the owner has the auto-drain option. Maybe, just maybe the control panel they are using is bit small. For example, all of the wall mounted 12v electronic displays must be shoved into one or more of the circuits in the control panel, but without any indication where.
  14. Thanks overland. I will give your suggestions a try.
  15. Hi all, Yesterday evening was an exciting day as our new Oliver (#609) arrived by third party. Western Wyoming did it's best to greet the driver with snow flurries. I was going to pick it up in person but changed plans as the world starting sliding sideways with covid-19. Today started the shakedown process in our yard. The trailer looks fantastic: it's solid and beautiful. I have been working my way through systems (all except plumbing). Blew a fuse right away on one of the back leveling jacks. After replacing the fuse, it worked without problem. I haven't managed to figure out how to heat the Ollie yet, but I think I need more quality time with the manual. 12v lights is what has me stumped ... All exterior lights, interior curtesy lights, reading lights, and the closet light all fail to function. None of the blue lights come on the switches that should control these lights. Strangely a 5 amp fuse was missing in the control panel location labelled "Cabin/Cabinet Lights". This is the bottom most position ((12.) in the 12V fuse panel near the dinette. Without a fuse in place the overhead cabin and cabinet lights work fine. Addition of a 5amp fuse didn't solve the problem of the other lights. All other switches near the entrance light up and the operations they control also work. Has anyone else had similar problem? Is there another 12V control panel somewhere? Is there a detailed diagram of the wiring in Oliver University? (If there is, I haven't found it). Oh, yes, one last question: There is a switch on the wall below the pantry. Unlabelled and all alone. It also doesn't light up when thrown into the on position. What is it supposed to control? Thanks!
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