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Everything posted by wyofilm

  1. Daniel, I just sent you a more detailed message. In summary, for everyone else is that the company recommended by Oliver, Painted Cowboy, was a pleasure to work with. Very professional. As I recall, I felt the price was fair. I would have preferred to pick up the trailer in person, but our plans to do so started to fall apart as covid-19 shutdowns started to take effect in March. Good luck, Jason Rife
  2. No, we are near Redfish Lake in the Sawtooth mountains in Idaho. Smokey and getting worse. It was pretty smokey in Pinedale when we left. Always welcome for a visit when you in the area best, Jason Rife
  3. Great! Thanks everyone. Yes. Thanks to all. It was the T-handle. I certainly appreciate the quick responses. best, Jason Rife
  4. We are currently camping and we have water coming up through the bathroom floor. I think I've read about this before, but can't seem to find the topic again on forum searches. Does anyone with their ears currently on know about the problem and the fix? I'm 99% sure I've missed something. Thanks in advance! Best, Jason Rife
  5. In the gallery photos on the Lock & Roll hitch manufactures website, only small trailers are shown. The hitches appear to be rated for 11000# trailer weight and 1100# tongue weight, but I'm still wondering about the size of an Ollie.
  6. STEVEnBETTY- I tested with and without shore power with the same outcome. I will look into your suggestion. Thanks, Jason
  7. John - Thanks for the links. Just the type of info I was looking for. I agree with you about propane appliances ... For the furnace my first step will be take the trailer down below 5000 ft. Jason
  8. P.S. I have repeatedly bled the gas lines by turning on the stove top burners. Gas is turned on!
  9. I'm back for some great insight. I haven't been able to get our furnace working, yet. Our 2020 EII Oliver has a Dometic (formally Atwood) DFSD 20111 furnace. **I'll get my Oliver gripe out of the way first: their online manuals don't include any furnace manual and of course I didn't receive hard copy manuals with the trailer (online manuals only?). ** When I go to engage heat from the thermostat, I have fan on 'auto' and set a heat temp well above ambient. Fan will kick on for about 10 sec or so. I have had the same results several times. If I look at the furnace by removing the outside cover I see a single flashing light, the code for the flashing is 1 single flash every 3 seconds. From the Dometic manual for this furnace, I see that corresponds to a Limit Switch/Airflow problem. If I turn the unit off, then on, I get the air running for about 10 seconds or so, at which point the unit cuts off and the indicating light comes back on. Here is the rub: we live at 7300'. I have read the previous thread on the Oliver site (observing this problem). Some owners have had no problems, other have. So here is my question (finally!): are my symptoms consistent with this furnace not functioning at high elevation? Is there an adjustment that can be made to rectify the problem? Are there better high elevation furnaces out there? For the record no where in the manual or on Dometics site is high elevation discussed. However, the indicating light (Airflow problem) would be consistent ... I think. Thanks for any help.
  10. WhatDa - Thanks for the overview. I agree with many of your points, especially the limited range. In my neck of the woods the low temps and remote location turn DEF systems into a liability. I tow stock and flatbed trailers with a Ram 3500, which is of course well suited for the purpose, but DEF systems don't always like extreme cold temps (not to mention cold morning diesel starts!). It is my dream to be rid of diesel trucks for their modern liabilities. The torque of the gas engines won't match the diesels, but the ford 7.3l might be adequate. We'll see. Many of my neighbors won't buy modern diesels because of their modern reliability problems. They just search out older diesel trucks and put some money into them. That strategy won't work forever. But of course I have the issues with tractors ...
  11. Has anyone test driven the new F250 7.3 L gas? Some day I would enjoy getting rid of my modern diesels.
  12. Despite the faulty switch, our new Oliver is highest quality camper I've every been in. Many years ago we rented a couple RVs. They got us there and back again, but they were garbage. We've owned a Scamp trailer for 9-10 years, but we have completely outgrown it. That Scamp is a joy, but sadly we've put so many rough miles on it, is has basically rattled away into a bucket of parts. One foot into the Oliver made it clear to me that it is another step in quality above the Scamp. 99% of RVs out there are complete junk. And while I can't know that I won't stumble onto another problem, I can't wait to bounce down rough roads with such a solidly built trailer.
  13. gatorewc - Not having the lights work took a bit of shine off the new trailer, but as I said above the hull and frame is amazing. As someone mentioned above it is possible the switch was working during qc checks, but failed later (during the road trip out here). If this is the only problem I have, I won't mind. It wil be hard to test everything until winter ends.
  14. Update: With OTT's help I was able to determine the 'Master Switch' is bad. Therefore, it will be an easy fix. They will send to me a new switch in the mail, along with a cover to the light in closet which is missing. The switch turns on two circuits simultaneously. The current switch fails to close one circuit. By jumping across the switch I was able to confirm that all my lights work. To other 2020 E2 owners, I learned that the wiring schemes are a bit different from early 2020 to later 2020 trailers with regard to the lights. In the end, slot 12 is now used for some lighting, but mine wasn't wired this way despite the new labeling. Also, they should label the in interior courtesy light switch it just sits there all alone on the wall below the pantry. This is especially true since the 2020 manual says that the switch is located on the Main Switch panel instead of its true (and better location) near the pantry. On to testing other systems ...
  15. I contacted OTT this morning and we will talk tomorrow again with about the problem. I didn't have much time today, but did see that the main switch at the entrance (2020 trailer) was acting wonky, even with the two light banks that do work. Looked in the access port to the back of the panel and wow! it is a mess o' wire. Fortunately, it looks like that whole panel comes off so at least access won't be too bad if I have to go in there. From looking at the 2019 manual, it is clear that OTT reworked 12V electrical. For example, on our trailer there is no switch panel to the right of the galley. It looks like the fuse box is in the attic for 2019, but the fuse panel for 2020 is in the dinette area. It looks like their new way removes all previous 3-way switches. One thing that I learned today is that the lone switch on the wall beneath the pantry is for interior courtesy lights (which don't work).
  16. I will. It was too late when I stopped working on the problem to contact OTT. I expect that they will be attentive and helpful. I have to say the bones of trailer (frame/body) is amazing. I am suspecting the parts that change yearly and differ from customer to customer might not be as robust. I will update everyone when this is worked out.
  17. Fuse position 12 is clearly labelled 'Cabin/Cabinet Lights' /5A. We didn't get the auto-drain option. I tried a 5A fuse in position 12. It didn't work. Position 11 is labelled for 'Optional St Awning' (an option we didn't get.) I will look for a light in the pantry ... I'm now guessing that they don't have wiring diagrams because some decisions are made on the fly - like if the owner has the auto-drain option. Maybe, just maybe the control panel they are using is bit small. For example, all of the wall mounted 12v electronic displays must be shoved into one or more of the circuits in the control panel, but without any indication where.
  18. Thanks overland. I will give your suggestions a try.
  19. Hi all, Yesterday evening was an exciting day as our new Oliver (#609) arrived by third party. Western Wyoming did it's best to greet the driver with snow flurries. I was going to pick it up in person but changed plans as the world starting sliding sideways with covid-19. Today started the shakedown process in our yard. The trailer looks fantastic: it's solid and beautiful. I have been working my way through systems (all except plumbing). Blew a fuse right away on one of the back leveling jacks. After replacing the fuse, it worked without problem. I haven't managed to figure out how to heat the Ollie yet, but I think I need more quality time with the manual. 12v lights is what has me stumped ... All exterior lights, interior curtesy lights, reading lights, and the closet light all fail to function. None of the blue lights come on the switches that should control these lights. Strangely a 5 amp fuse was missing in the control panel location labelled "Cabin/Cabinet Lights". This is the bottom most position ((12.) in the 12V fuse panel near the dinette. Without a fuse in place the overhead cabin and cabinet lights work fine. Addition of a 5amp fuse didn't solve the problem of the other lights. All other switches near the entrance light up and the operations they control also work. Has anyone else had similar problem? Is there another 12V control panel somewhere? Is there a detailed diagram of the wiring in Oliver University? (If there is, I haven't found it). Oh, yes, one last question: There is a switch on the wall below the pantry. Unlabelled and all alone. It also doesn't light up when thrown into the on position. What is it supposed to control? Thanks!
  20. What DavidS wrote gives an excellent overview of what will happen. With 75%+ of everyone eventually getting infected by the covid-19 virus it is critical that our health care services are not overwhelmed with too many cases all at once. Equally important is that by slowing the spread buys time for the testing, manufacturing, and distribution of existing antiviral drugs, some which might work to lessen the severity of infection. Also, antibody treatments might be in the offing. Buying time is a good thing.
  21. Overland - Great write up. I have been putting together a revised travel tool kit in preparation for our Ollie delivery. First, let me say I'm glad that you included the Knipex pliers. They are so much better to use than adjustable wrenches. With a little technique they are equivalent to using an adjustable ratchet! About a year ago I purchased their cobra pliers, too. I decided to go with a breaker bar, but to forgo a torque wrench. My rationale is that I can get home without a torque wrench. Also, each vehicle I own is getting a breaker bar and right socket for its lug nut size. I decided to go with one big bag for tools (a real downside for the reasons you mention above) because this one set has to be shared between multiple vehicles. I'm afraid to weigh it! This is the tool bag I purchased. Great for on the road weight training! I would say that it stands a fair chance of holding everything Overland included in his list. Quality looks good to me, but let me stress - it will be heavy when outfitted. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000EDTSZG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I might need to include more RV specific tools. Thanks for sharing your thoughts!
  22. Before we load up our soon to be delivered EII with too much stuff, we will try towing it with our 2017 4-wd 2500 Sprinter (towing capacity 5000#). I don't think that this is TV is a good match - too much windage and marginal capacity, but I want to test it nevertheless. Also, our Sprinter is utilitarian and can be a rattle can on rough roads. I believe the newer Sprinters are more refined for driver comfort. If I were serious about towing an EII with a Sprinter then I would look to the 3500 with a towing capacity of 7500#.
  23. Your second amazon link is for Andersen levelers. I'm guessing this was a mistake. Here is a link for Andersen-like levelers. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07PM8X48R/ref=sspa_dk_detail_1?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B07PM8X48R&pd_rd_w=Rhn8W&pf_rd_p=45a72588-80f7-4414-9851-786f6c16d42b&pd_rd_wg=JlGkS&pf_rd_r=RYM2A2GE5RV6XPSJGYMJ&pd_rd_r=7cbd5202-bc6e-4ee2-9efa-a0dd25580952&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUE0MFVPNVZDWFU5TTAmZW5jcnlwdGVkSWQ9QTAxMTI3NTgxUFRRWFNGUTFJWUxEJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTAwMTY0OTlDQTZPWUkxMklPVDAmd2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9kZXRhaWwmYWN0aW9uPWNsaWNrUmVkaXJlY3QmZG9Ob3RMb2dDbGljaz10cnVl Jason
  24. I will throw in my 2 cents. I tow a fair amount (not an Oliver, that won't happen until March 26) and I would say that overkill is great. The safety margin is increased and the fatigue factor is decreased. In addition to a Ram 3500 (for ranch work and ranch towing) I still own my all time favorite vehicle, a 2007 Tundra. I ordered the Andersen Hitch just to HAVE the ability to tow with my Tundra, but in reality I'll most often tow our Oliver with the Ram because in towing overkill is the way to go. It is comforting to know I could pull two EIIs!!, but only have one hooked up. As John and others have pointed out, payload creep is a real thing. It seems to me if I had to buy a pickup tow vehicle I would start my search with a suitable 3/4 ton.
  25. A couple of months ago I was in a dealership doing paperwork on a used Ram work pickup and asked about the Gladiator as a TV. The salesman scrunched his face indicating that towing isn't really its strong suit. Cool vehicle though. I don't have a need for a Gladiator, but I bet that they will sell a ton of them. I see them as a competitor to the Tacoma TRD and the other off road mid-sized pickups.
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