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jordanv last won the day on March 22

jordanv had the most liked content!

My Info

My RV or Travel Trailer

  • Do you own an Oliver Travel Trailer, other travel trailer or none?
    I own an Oliver Travel Trailer
  • Year
  • Make
  • Model
    Legacy Elite II
  • Floor Plan
    Twin Bed Floor Plan
  • Hull #

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  1. I’m not sure which light this means… sorry! Do you happen to have a photo? Also, water gets in from a tail light?!
  2. So no buffer, compound, polishing? Just wash, then wax by hand?
  3. Where do you inspect to prevent leaks. Is this just making sure the window seals weep holes are clear?
  4. In case anyone is interested. This company came inadvertently recommended to by Jason over at Oliver. The detailer he recommended uses their products so this is why I say inadvertently. I spoke with Christian on the phone, who can be seen in this video using Glidecoat's cermaic coat on a 12 year old RV. He recommends the 30' DIY kit and says that it is pretty simple to use. I mentioned to him my hesitancy about doing this DIY and he assured me that it would not be too difficult + would not need to worry if I also used this buffer, as it wouldnt be powerful enough to damage the Oliver clear coat easily: https://www.autogeek.net/porter-cable-buffer-value-kit.htmls DIY Product link: https://www.glidecoat.com/product/rv-ceramic-top-coating-kit/ The total price to do this DIY would be around 700-800 dollars including the buffer. Then, every 2-3 years it would require me doing the re-coating which he told me should not be as labor as intensive after the first round.
  5. Well it didnt take long for me to figure this out either. I just spoke with Jason over at Oliver and he balked at that price as well. He said many customers have called asking about the cremaic / marine coat and he reccomends it if I can afford it. He said he has never heard of anyone paying that high. 2,500 was the highest he heard of.... the lowest price he heard was $750. He is kindly going to get me in touch with some possible connections here in Louisiana to get that job done. Thanks for the advice!
  6. So while researching the price of waxing our camper (I’m not sure I trust myself to do it) I was recommended by a local boat/rv detailer to put a marine coating on our trailer. He said this coating would last at the very least 3 years, and would not require waxing, only requirement is the usual washing, and wiping down with a compound after. He mentioned that the wax eventually just melts off in our sun and heat here in Louisiana and has seen a lot of success with the marine coating. His price was 3,600 which doesn’t sound terrible if it means I don’t have to wax. Anyone have experience with this? Would this void our fiberglass warranty? What would you do?
  7. You did all of this from that one small duct vent hole on the floor?!
  8. I guess I’m slightly upset with the Oliver service department though. I called them last week about this issue and they suggested I remove a fitting and fiddle around with a toothpick or wire in the hole. They never suggested I lift the actual Oliver with a jack!
  9. I really wish I would have read this forum post before trying to do this… I ended up trying to replace a couple of the zirk fittings because they wouldn’t take the grease when screwed in, but would when by themselves. I even bought a device to “unstick” zirks. All I needed to do was jack up that part of the trailer… well, you win some, you lose some
  10. Yes, I got a used Anderson from a user on this forum and Oliver installed it (for a fee) when we picked up the trailer. The hitch on the F150 states that a WD hitch is needed for anything over 5,000 lbs. We’ve already traveled about 2,500 miles with the Oliver and towing has not been an issue for us yet. We haven’t driven anywhere too hilly or mountainous other than our first two weeks in TN and the truck did well there. I’m eager to test it out in the desert and more mountainous areas of the US.
  11. Trying to find a good set on amazon to no avail, any suggestions for vent/bug screens?
  12. I noticed something over the past couple of nights here in Florida. We run our AC set to "ON" at night, to have a white noise in the background that helps us sleep better. It also prevents us waking up when the ac shuts on or off. I have noticed though, that this seems to actually increase the humidity level in the camper by morning. When waking up, once I shut the AC to auto, or off, we don't seem to have the damp feeling anymore. Tonight I will try running the AC set to auto and see how that works. I do not have any humidity level readings so I cant confirm percentages, it just feels damp when we wake up, even with our humidifier running.
  13. I appreciate the quick help here. I do think ill replace all of these with copper fittings once i get home.
  14. Ok found the GUSHER. Water was coming out of the top connection but pushing back in place fixed it. The connection on the right seemed fit, but water is pouring out there with pump turned on I completely disconnected and reconnected all sides of this t-fitting and that seems to have fixed it. thanks for the help y’all!!!
  15. I have used a pressure regulator any time I have connected to city water. Anytime I’m connected to fill up the tank though I have not. Was I supposed to use a pressure regulator when filling up the tank as well? Unfortunately this happened during night one of our 3 week trip. Just waking up to these helpful tips so I will try and see what’s going on once my wife and I are fully awake. I will check this area first. Thanks! How do I remove that shower caddy? I have used a pressure regulator when connected to city water inlet, but not when filling up the fresh water tank. Was I supposed to do that when filling up the tank as well?
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