topgun2

hobo - I give those threads a shot of "303 Protectant" a couple of times a year. I'm sure that a pure silicon spray would do just as well or even simply rub those threads with paraffin wax. Bill

Blue Spring SP is one of my favorites. For 15 years straight I stayed either in the campground or the cabins there during Daytona Bikeweek. The number and variety of fish that are in the stream between the spring and the St. John's river is amazing let alone the Manatees. Enjoy it! Bill

Ouch! Obviously this issue is the reason for that aluminum plate on the door behind the rubber bumper. A number of us have installed a grab bar that attaches to the screen door so that there is something to hold onto in the event of a strong wind - screen door grab bar The only downside to these is making sure that people don't use them for "support" when getting in or out of the camper. Bill

Humidity inside a structure that doesn't "breathe" can be a problem. The obvious answers are to allow it to breathe or to reduce the source of the humidity. This means to either get air circulation with less humid air or remove the source. Opening a window - sometimes a crack will do and sometimes you might need to go "all in" by simply opening it. Turning on the MaxAir Fan with a cracked window. Use the air conditioner. Use supplemental fans. Use products like "Damp-rid" or an actual de-humidifier. Take your showers in the campground shower house. Cook outside. Certainly open that MaxAir fan when you cook inside - it helps reduce humidity and odors. Remember that while your Oliver furnace takes in outside air for combustion an then expels that back to the outside, any other propane devices you might use (propane cooktop, propane heaters such as the Mr. Heater) produce moisture as a by product of combustion. I've found that the "answer" to this problem depends on the conditions. But the first think I do is crack that window. Bill

You're welcome - it did take me a bit of time to find it. Bill

jo79RI - Just because you will not have your Ollie until 2021 is no reason for not attending the Owner's Rally. The State Park has both rooms in the Lodge and they have cabins. Just think how far above the learning curve you would be if you joined us. Certainly you are welcome and I think that you'd learn a bunch along with having a good time. Bill

Here's a pic of Mainiac's mod which I copied after he posted it back in 2017.

Wow! Nice, new, clean, happy people, happy pups - what else could you hope for? By the time Spring actually gets here you will have it entirely sorted out. Hope to see you at the 2020 Owner's Rally. Bill

Nan - I assume that you are just using your jacks for stabilization and not for lifting the trailer to change a tire. If that is true then you should not have to worry about 6x6 blocks splitting no matter if you are with or against the grain of the wood. I rarely use my rear jacks. However, I almost always use one of these 6x6 blocks under my front jack.

Nan - Of course, in situations where the height of the 8 inch block that Mike uses might be too tall, he can always simply turn that block on its side thus reducing its height by approximately 2 inches. Probably that is the reason he's smiling in the picture? Bill

On your tow vehicle - normally to the right and left of the actual hitch receiver - there will be a hole or slot that is large enough for a chain or hook/clip to fit through. The ends of the safety chains/cables normally have a hook on the end that is then "hooked" to this hole/slot. Perhaps if you viewed this YouTube video you'd understand better: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ARZhXW5g_7c Bill

MarkC - I do not believe that John's wear was "normal" for the Andersen system and as I recall, I posted pictures of my hitch ball that didn't have any of the same type of wear patterns as John's showed. However, your real question is do you need a weight distribution hitch with a one ton truck and the answer is no. As far as "being smart" in using a larger ball - I agree with Mike. The standard 2 inch ball is fine and I've never heard of even one failure with it. Is the larger ball better? Certainly if someone were to give me the larger ball, I'd take and use it. But, for my needs - what I tow, where I tow, how I tow - I would not pay for it. Obviously, if you plan on loading your Ollie to the max, tow on very rough roads, otherwise plan on abusing (meaning rough treatment) the hitch system, then the larger ball just might be a better way to go for you. Bill

The chains/cables being discussed here are designed to be able to keep the tow vehicle and trailer attached to each other in the event of some type of failure of the hitch system (i.e. the hitch receiver, the hitch itself, the bulldog coupler assembly, the front of the frame of the trailer, etc.) This is why these are sometimes referred to as "safety chains/cables". Bill

MandD - Sorry about your wife, sorry for you, sorry for the moose, and sorry for the Jeep. Ouch! on so many fronts. When you mention that the Jeep moved 4 feet sideways, I assume that the Ollie simply followed right behind and didn't exhibit any kind of sway or other "strange" movement? Thank you so much for posting your bad experience - it is fair warning to all of us. Bill

There are now companies that make "Andersen style" blocks https://www.amazon.com/Camco-Yellow-Stabilizer-Jack-Support/dp/B076BRXLL4/ref=pd_sbs_263_4/146-3628680-5199367?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B076BRXLL4&pd_rd_r=71c9b40e-198c-475a-b9ed-9cbd9f75047a&pd_rd_w=E3FuD&pd_rd_wg=fXUek&pf_rd_p=7cd8f929-4345-4bf2-a554-7d7588b3dd5f&pf_rd_r=5JHMKC2MAS7W7H987HJN&psc=1&refRID=5JHMKC2MAS7W7H987HJN And "Andersen style" ramps https://www.amazon.com/Andersen-2-Pack-Camper-Leveler-Handles/dp/B076X5W1LZ/ref=sr_1_8?crid=CW2VBL2WAZ9K&keywords=andersen+levelers&qid=1581523807&sprefix=andersen+%2Caps%2C180&sr=8-8 that are much less expensive as compared to the Andersens. Bill