Imelda

Update to my battery situation. I was having a hard time getting batteries to charge and hold a charge. The previous night I was hooked up to shore power and now the batteries are doing great. holding 12.9V off shore (boon docking), refrigerator is doing great running on propane and no C (low battery error). The batteries seemed to have healed themselves. The batteries are the 6 Volt AGM batteries, four of them. see diagram below I have no experience with batteries but is it possible they got down so low that they could not fully charge with solar or hooked to the truck charge and they needed full up 120V 30A charge to remedy them? Anyone have similar experience? My 2000W inverter has a shut off set about 12.1V so I need to figure how to set it to a lower voltage. It would-be nice to run the microwave for a minute or two to reheat my coffee. I have purchased a Jackery 1500 that I love that can run the microwave, air fryer etc. but it would be nice to use the inverter that I paid for. jd1923 or anyone how do I change the battery shut of voltage lower than 12.1V? Right now I can 30 secs of microwave before it shuts off. Is there a youtube somewhere?

I am sure this topic has been posted before but I cannot find it.. I have had my Oliver 2 for 4 years now and have used it about 3 months out of every year. I went cheap and got the 6V battery option (i do have the 2000W inverter and a zap connector for solar) Now I seem to be having problems holding a charge on these batteries using solar. I think they are shot so I think I need to upgrade to the lithium ion batteries to hold the charge. My Norcold refrigerator comes up with a C error code when the battery reading gets down to less than 10.5. I want to switch to lithium ion batteries so I can use my microwave etc. when boon docking. Can I just take the four 6V batteries out of the battery compartment (see pics) and put 2 lithium ones in and just hook the connectors up as it is? Any recommendations on what the best battery to use?

I have had my Oliver 2 for 4 years now. I went cheap and got the 6V battery option (i do have the 2000W inverter and a zap connector for solar) Now I seem to be having problems holding a charge on these batteries using solar. I think they are shot so I think I need to upgrade to the lithium ion batteries to hold the charge. My Norcold refrigerator comes up with a C error code when the battery reading gets down to less than 10.5. The Oliver university does not recommend running propane on the road and my vehicle does not seem to be able to charge the batteries.

its the is a FREEDOM X / XC Inverter

All, I ran into the same problem this last trip. My generator would not work at high altitude so I tried to run my microwave of the my 2000 watt inverter, I have 4X 6V batteries and I remembered early when I got the trailer I was able to run the microwave for a few minutes so I could heat up a cup of coffee. Now it shuts down almost immediately and I checked the cut off voltage and it was 0V and I could NOT reset it to 12V. It stayed at 0V! So should I try the hard reboot on the inverter? Any ideas? Imelda

I am trying to replace mine with the 45 degree zerks. I am having a hard time getting first old ones out to replace them. The nut part looks like it may be getting stripped when I tried a channel lock on it to screw it out. I am assuming they are screwed in and not driven in and I have to screw them out. What size wrench should I be trying? 1/4 inch

From Imelda: Thank you I am going to purchase this wand next year to flush out the hot water tank, For now I just used a wire brush to get rise of the rust around the water tank drain and then flushed it out with a hose to get most of the calcium deposits out. I got the anode in but I am pondering on how tight to tighten it.

Finally, (this is way too difficult) but I got it to thread using Teflon tape and vice grip to hold it straight and screwing it in at the same time. It took a whole lot longer than I had planned. I am worried about over tightening it and stripping the thread on the heater. But I don't want to under tighten it and have the anode blow out under pressure and have to start all over again,. Any thoughts anyone on how tight I should get it before I turn the water on to the water heater? See pic below.

Hi all. Anyone had this problem. I removed the water heater anode and drained the tank. Now I am trying to put a new electrode back in but cannot get it to grip to start to grip the thread to start screwing it on. I tried to lean up the drain as best I could to thread in. I have very hard water so there was a lot of calcium build up that I cleaned up with white vinegar but no luck. I am pretty sure the thread is not stripped of damage. Last year I had the same problem and a neighbor got it screwed in for me. Anyone have any ideas?

I plan on getting the brake controller install and getting it adjusted correctly before my next trip. You may have all saved me from a bad accident as I naively thought that the Titan was breaking the trailer and the controller just adjusted the amount of breaking power. I didn't realize that No Brake Controller means No Brakes at all to the Oliver 😒 I think the reason why it didn't come with a brake controller was due to the Auto parts shortage and the auto manufacturers were shipping to the show rooms without a lot of the electronics. Now they seem to have more trucks. It looks straight forwards to put a brake controller in my Titan as there is a void in the area where it should have been. Hopefully, the wire harness is somewhere behind it. I am still in two minds as to get a newer Titan that has everything I want. I will keep you all posted on the progress. I have 9 weeks to my Utah trip get this resolved one way or another.

I am wondering if its too late to get a brake controller installed now or should this have been done at the factory?

All, this is very helpful and interesting. I just found this. I need to check in with Nissan re the brake controller. Are trailer brakes required in Texas? It's imperative to have a trailer brake controller when towing a trailer that has electric or electric over hydraulic brakes. In most states, an adjustable trailer brake controller is required when trailers weight more than 3,000 pounds when loaded.Feb 18, 2019 The Titan does have trailer brakes but does not have the manual controller to set the breaking.

Hi all, Imelda back on line again. A quick update. I did buy a Nissan Titan SV in September last year as my 2010 F250 had to go due to mechanical problems. I did use the new Titan SV to pull my Oliver 2 about 3000 there and back to Tennessee from Texas with no problems. Later, I took your advice and bought the Andersen WDH. I have it installed ready for our next trip to Utah. I just need a strong neighbor (stronger than me even with a cheater bar) to come over and tighten it all down for me. When I was shopping around for Titans last September they were only 2 available, just the basic trucks - manual seats (I have to sit on a cushion to see over the steering wheel), no dual climate control just one knob with red and blue to manually adjust the temperature and it drives me crazy. No Semiconductor chips available then, I guess. My Titan did NOT come with the complete tow package. It doesn't have a way to adjust the trailer braking inside. It does have the sway control (i think) and the hitch receiver with the 5 prong trailer plug. I was just at Nissan dealership this week getting the oil changed and now they have 22 new Titans (2023) on the lot so I am thinking of trading in the Titan I have for one that has the options I want or need. So my question is. Do I need the trailer breaking ability inside the truck? I may still have to use the Titan I have for the Utah trip. Will I be ok with the Andersen hitch and the Oliver breaking system or do you think I should have the internal breaking? We are not going to be going down any major hills and I think the sway control going west with the winds through Texas, New Mexico , Colorado and Utah but with the Andersen hitch I should be good? Some advice on the breaking would be very helpful. Imelda

Thanks all for pointing out the ball size and chain length. Yip I need the 2" ball. I believe the 4" drop should work my Titan and I will check the chain length.

Thank you all. I am taking all good advice I have been given and I am ordering the Andersen hitch (currently on sale) at camping world. I believe this is the one I saw on an Oliver. Can someone confirm this is the right one before I purchase? https://www.campingworld.com/andersen-hitches-weight-distribution-hitch-4-drop-rise-133946.html?utm_source=google&utm_medium=ppc&utm_campaign={Campaign}&gclid=CjwKCAjw8JKbBhBYEiwAs3sxN_swK0-DWOO1nkSLi6t__q0Lc_JIKQAc2_Itxouk9aO7kVPFo5wELBoC2JYQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds