Imelda

All i found the problem. a loose battery connection. i feel like an idiotic not checking it first. sorry i wasted a lot of your time. i am good to go now.

i think i checked all the fuses on the 12V line and they appear good but there is this connector on both the positive and negative wires coming from the batteries to the fuses and i wonder if they are open circuit. I have never seen this type of component before. is it a connector or fuse or what but it goes to the fuses where i cannot get any voltage reading of any kind even though the fuses test good what is this type of connector for?

i think i checked all the fuses on the 12V line and they appear good but there is this connector on both the positive and negative wires coming from the batteries to the fuses and i wonder if they are open circuit. I have never seen this type of component before. is it a connector or fuse or what but it goes to the fuses where i cannot get any voltage reading of any kind even though the fuses test good what is this type of connector for?

i got back home fine and with a voltmeter i did some more checking and there is 13V coming out of the batteries, I checked but there’s no 12 V on either size side of the optifuse. The fuse is good as i checked with ohmmeter. There is a one amp in line fuse I also checked it’s good also. the 2000 inverter is turning on fine and turning on the microwave and all the stuff that runs off the AC so it’s puzzling why there is no 12V DC power in the trailer. there has to be a bad fuse or switch somewhere. I am going to try to reach out to OTT but it usually takes them a while to get back to me. any other ideas? could a fuse be blown in the inverter.

i am at a camping site and will be home tomorrow better for me to do the trouble shooting at home. the batteries read 13.4V so they are ok. i did have a battery shut of switch that I installed. i didn’t think it was the problem but i took it out just in case and connected directly to the battery terminal. no circuit breaker on the battery i was thinking of adding it myself thanks for the wiring diagram and pointing out a ground source. I was just going to run a ground wire directly from the battery just to be sure i had a good ground for the trouble shooting. the 60A fuse is good just checking the low resistance ( not the voltage but I will) across it. i am starting to suspect the converter. as when I left I had trouble with the tongue jack not working and then it did when i switched my battery switch on and off.

i checked the 60A breaker by just checking to see is if i got a really low resistance value across it as i wasn’t exactly sure where i could get a good ground connection but you are right I do need to check the voltage. I am not sure if this 60A breaker is before or after the converter so if it was good or bad that would tell me about the converter. display lights and fan are on the converter so I am not sure if this says it’s good. . fuses are easier to replace than converters/inverters so when i get back home I will run up a ground wire directly from the battery ground terminal and use it to check for DC voltages. thank you for this.

I was wondering if there is a wiring diagram somewhere. i don’t see it in the manuals

I was wondering if there is a wiring diagram somewhere. i don’t see it in the manuals

Well i broke down and went into town and bought a voltmeter. the 60 A breaker is good. batteries appear to be good. there is a 1A in line fuse after the 60A that i should check. it’s getting really hot in the trailer since no AC but I only have one more day and then home. hoping for cooler weather at home to continue the trouble shooting. thanks for the reminder of the manual jack tool. I was beginning to panick but I did find it in the trailer. 😀 I had seen it before but had no idea what it was. so i can lift the jacks to get home 🤞 to be continued.

Dean this is very helpful. unfortunately i left my volt meter that i normally carry in the trailer at home but i will try to manually raise the hitch jack with the hand crank tool and then go into town and buy a cheap voltmeter at an auto shop so I can check the batteries. i have lithium ion batteries. and then check voltages from there. i will check the manual and look for wiring diagram. maybe someone at this camp ground has a voltmeter.

Dean, jacks do not work. i cannot get the trailer of the truck hitch. i did flip this 60V and it did not fix the problem. i wonder if i can over ride it or maybe it needs to be replaced. i am wondering if I can manually lower the hitch jack so I can at least unhook the trailer from the truck.

i did find the fuse but unless the fuse is bad i flip it on and off but didnt seem to solve the DC power problem i. the trailer. i don’t have a meter to test the fuse.

ii am at a camp site. tomorrow i will look for this.

the ac power is good microwave is working and ac outlets but no lights and refrigerator and ac not coming on

oliver 2 year 2020

ac shore power turns on microwave and turns on outlet but not lights. i know there fuse blown somewhere but where?

Thank you Got it filled in now.

I cannot figure out how to add my info to my forum posts. How do I do this?

On my 2020 Hull 642 it already had Shurflo 182-100 that cracked over last winter. Evidently, my winterization wasn't very effective. I couldn't find this model on Amazon but I did get a Shurflo 182-201. Now I am not sure this is the right model but the actual pump is a XXX-100. What is the difference between the Shurflo 182-201and the Shurflo 182-200? They look like they are interchangeable but maybe not.

Hi all, Imelda again Hull 642 etc. I am really happy with my newly installed 2X Li Times 230AH batteries and I now want to up grade my solar panels etc. I have already purchased the LiTime 30A MPPT 12V/24V Solar Charge Controller Bluetooth to go with the batteries and now I would like to purchase some light weight efficient solar panels. I was thinking of either 2X 200 watts or 4X 100 watts depending on weight of the panels, (no more that 20 lbs). I was looking at the Predator brand from Harbor freight or the thunderbolt that they carry there. The Predator one looks like the Jackery panels I have on my Jackery power stations. Anyone have have any recommendation on these Harbor Freight brands or any others? I am looking for 400 total watts (EITHER 2x200 WATTS OR 4X 100 WATTS) that are light weight and easy for me to carry and move around to catch the sun.

Hi all and thank you all for the good advice in getting a professional to put them in for me. I could easily have dropped a battery. Yiks and then got burned with battery acid ! I just picked my Ollie up from my local trailer place (it is actually a horse trailer repair place I use but same principles) and got the new 2X 230Ah batteries installed. They fit perfectly in the battery tray. Very pleased!

Thank you SeaDawg and all. I agree and there are all kind of opportunity where replacing the batteries can go wrong. Like moving the batteries out etc. A lot to consider here. I will get an expert to do it.

Yip this seems to be a good option. Amazon has them on Spring sale.. JD and all how many of these batteries did you get to in the Olly battery storage compartment? It loos like I can only fit 2 batteries It seems like a lot of batteries come with a Blu tooth options. How would this be useful?

I think I could fit 4 or probably just 2 of the Lifepo4 above the same compartment that has the existing 4X6V batteries . Would 2 be enough to provide Power to run the microwave or more batteries better?? Just checked, I can only get 2 batteries in this space

or there is the one that JD recommends. Too many choices. I think I could 4 of these in the battery compartmne to replace the 4X6V oned that are there. I amy need to buy some new connector cables.