Imelda

All, latest update. The saga continues. I did get a blue clip that Townesw showed in his pic but now that I have looked at it I am left wondering if the faucet I have didn't come with a blue clip. If you look at Townesw pic on the left and mine on the right they do not look like the same connectors. Mine on the left has push in clips holding it together and now I have a blue clip I am not sure if I can get it on. Also my connector looks longer. I have a neighbor that is pretty handy with plumbing that is going to take a look. Maybe the push in clips in mine were all that was intended to hold it together until they didn't. So far with the water pump the connector is holding but I am wondering if I hook up city water that has higher pressure, will it blue apart again. I have put the drawers back yet. Anyone have any thoughts? I submitted a ticket to Oliver on this issue but I need to follow up with a phone call to them and get this cleared up. Maybe I should just get duct tape and tape it together 😁 Or just not use the sink since it wasn't getting used as I didn't notice it actually had a pull down sprayer and someone pointed that out to me!

Yes. It does have a sprayer. Just shows how much time I spend at my😃Oliver kitchen sink.

I did remove the back panel under the sink and located the refrigerator plug. It does not look like any water got back there but I am pretty sure it is not GFCI plug. Anyway the latest is that I did order up a new faucet but when I pushed the sprayer hose connector back the leak was fixed. This was one of the suggestions in the previous posts that the sprayer hose line had come apart. I cancelled the new faucet and saved myself $150. See the attached pics. I believe what happened was the blue clip needed to hold the connector together was NOT installed at the factory (no blue clip could be found anywhere) and I am pretty sure if it just popped of then it would be laying under the sink area. NO where to be found. So one day the city water pressure blew it apart and started the leak. Now I need to get a blue clip to hold the connector together otherwise it going disconnect again. Anyone have any idea where I could get this blue clip? I am going to call Oliver service and see if they will send out one. I leave in 2 weeks. And I still have to deal with the water rotted panels in that area. I guess the lesson learned here is that the kitchen drawers should be pulled out and this area checked for leaks and water damage as part of routine maintenance. l

Rivernerd, thank you so much for excellent information. It would be a big undertaking for me to replace the plywood under the sink. It's not in good shape right now but I am worried about black mold. The leak has obviously been going on and unnoticed for a while. The last trip out in Oct 2021 the pump would occasional run for a few seconds when every faucet etc. was turned off. I suspected a small leak somewhere but couldn't find it. I have 2 weeks until I leave for Utah. I am going to try your suggestion on the bleach and mold and mildew-killing primer as a short term fix. I may take a rotary cutter and cut a small hole in the base plywood to see how bad things look under the plywood. I have a couple of friends that are good at carpentry that could help replace the plywood when I get back. I think I should just replace the faucet rather than trying to make the old leaky one work short term and then fail on my trip. The one Mike's used looks like a good replacement. And per John's suggestion I need to check the refrigerator connections at the back. It's a little dangerous for the electrics to be this close to water. Live and learn. For sure adding pulling out the kitchen drawers to check for leaks on a routine check list. I had to get help on how to get these out and that's on another post. I am going to submit a ticket to Oliver regarding this.

All, I did get the drawers out under the sink and I did find the leak (see attached pdf) and I saw like the picture above accept the black water line had disconnected from it counter part under the sink. It must have been leaking for some time so yes this area should be checked frequently for water damage. So now, can I connect up the black water line again by just pushing it together with its counter part and it looks the plywood will have to be replaced? Any suggestions on how to go about that? Under the sink water leak.pdf

To replace the faucet I have to remove the kitchen drawers. How do I get them o

Mike, I like the idea of a sprayer. Does it have to be an RV faucet or can any faucet work?

Hi all. Imelda again. In 2 weeks I leave for Utah. I decided to fire up the Oliver 2 I have and check everything out .I have a water leak that appears to be at or near the kitchen sink faucet. Bathroom and toilet are fine. I leave in N Texas and I didn't winterize since I wanted to have the option of travel over winter - which I never did. A couple of nights when it got into the teens I ran a Space heater in keep the temps up in the Oliver and prevent the pipes from freezing. The leak only happens when the kitchen faucet is on and it sounds to be underneath it and its a BIG water leak. Like maybe a coupling is loose or broken. Bathroom and toilet are fine- no leaks there. It leaks with either the pump on or the city line water hooked up. Are there videos on how I get the faucet out and check the connections or how do I get to that area under the sink? Pulling out the kitchen drawers? Now that I have thought about it it must be the faucet itself leaking and not the connections to it as it only leaks when I turn the faucet on. Any ideas on how to replace this faucet. I don't even know what brand it is.

I am thinking the same thing. Diesel trucks are expensive to work on and I don't need my current tow vehicle that can put up to 19,000 lbs. to tow an Oliver2. So, I am back to mulling over the Titan XD but not sure if I need a 4WD. I plan to stay on pavement and the 4WD would add cost and more things to go wrong. Anyone got any thoughts on the 4WD option.

kmoon4545 it is the Titan XD I have in mind to pull the Oliver. On your XD do you just use a regular hitch without any problems with swaying etc?

Thanks all for the feed back. I am considering all points made here. Given the outrageous asking prices and lack of availability of new trucks maybe I should just get my current F250 6.7L (that I already own that easily pulls the trailer without an Anderson hitch) own cleaned and detailed so its like a new truck. I am going to think on this some more. Imelda

Hi all, I currently pull my Oliver 2 with a F250 6.7L diesel which is a bit of an over kill to tow it. The truck doesn't know it even pulling the trailer. The price of diesel is through the roof, gas is much cheaper and trying to find diesel pumps can be harder than the regular gas pumps. Down sizing to a smaller tow vehicle will get better gas mileage. I am looking at trading it in for a Nissan Titan SV crew cab or maybe an XD. Anyone have any experience with the Titans and if I go with the smaller SV will I have have install all the sway bars and weight distribution options etc. I don't need those with the current F250 I am using.

Thank you John and all. I did use a 3/8 drill bit to drill out any burrs and now the pin is going in and out freely.

Hi all, thanks for your help and support. Happy days again. An update on my no shore power topic. Progressive sent a replacement surge protector that I just now installed and I am very happy to report all electrics are working again on the trailer. AND I am ordering the soft start and an electrical engineering colleague will install it for me. It looks simple enough to do from the you tube videos I have watched. I could install it - I am an Electronic Engineer but I have a fear of heights so there is no way I could go up on the roof of the trailer. My younger, fitter colleague can. So I will get that done and use the lighter weight, low noise 2K watt generator that I already have. Happy Trails. Imelda

Thank you all. Yes, it makes sense to add the easy start and not lug a heavier and nosier generator around so I think I will go with the Micro-Air easy start that Oliver are offering as an add on option. I am sure I can get someone local to install it and run the ac of my 2K generator

All, I have had trouble getting the right side rear bumper pin in and out from when I got my Ollie last year. The left one seems easier but I have to work hard with silicone grease, wiggling the bumper and a few added profanities to get the right side pin out on my Oliver 2020 Elite 2. The pin has to go through 4 holes with little clearance that have to line up perfectly to get the pin in or out. I have seen a previous post where someone reported the same difficulty and one suggestion was to drill the bumper holes diameter a little larger. Anyone ever try this? Or are there any other suggestions like using a smaller diameter pin etc.

Ralph, I will look into adding the soft start also. I will have to take it to a RV dealer as there is no way I am getting up on the roof of the Oliver to add the soft start. I realized that by going with a 4K generator, its going to be a lot heavier (and likely noisier) than the 2K one I have already and I might not be able to pick up a 4K generator. I am wondering if I could leave a 4K one in the bed of the truck, run it from there and not have to move it. I took the cover of the EMS-HW30C and my voltmeter says there is 120V going into it but nothing coming out so for sure it is broken and needs to be replaced, either the whole unit or just swap out a circuit board as in SteveCr case. I had another question on keeping the batteries topped up. I have solar panels that I did not bring on this trip but could I have used a trickle 12V battery charger plugged into a 120V outlet at the campsite to keep the batteries charged up?

Thank you Steve. I am seeing a 4K watt quiet generator in my xmas stocking this year so I will be able to run a few extras. So far I am running of the batteries and I am at high altitude so I don’t need the ac. When I get good cell service hopefully tomorrow I will call Progressive and get a replacement circuit board and that should do the trick. I will keep you posted on how it works out.

Wow this looks exactly my situation. Thank you so much for sharing. Miss desperate here (I was really hot) here in Bog Bend NP and tried to run the ac of 2K watt generator and had the same outcome I will call Progressive and get a tell them what happened and get a replacement board send out and I can repair it. We are boon docking of the batteries for the next 4 days then home. I will keep you posted.

All see pics above. Yes ac power is coming to the trailer see pic w green light on power cord. The surge protector display is not on and I do not get ac power in the trailer when I switch the bypass ems. I do get dc 12 volts and the inverter works. Just no ac power in the trailer did I fry the ems in the trailer or is there something else going on?

I am wondering if there is another fuse between the surge protector in the trailer and the ac power connection to the trailer I have 12 v dc power

I tried this by pass switch still no ac power

No ac. No power in the trailer other than battery power. The display on the surge protector in the trailer is blank. Doesn’t show error codes. No display at all. I am wondering if there is a fuse or reset button for it.

I am running of the batteries but it would be nice to turn on the ac. It get hot here in the afternoon.