Imelda

And of course a bottle of Jack would definitely improve the situation😀

I have these drive on trailer jacks I was thinking of using on my Oliver. I have used them on my horse trailers. Trust me, there is nothing more stressful than changing a flat tire along a busy highway with horses in my horse trailer. Using this I don't have to unhook the horse trailer or have to get the horses out. So I was thinking of hooking up the Oliver and using this to take the wheels of and repack them one by one. Anybody see why this would not work? Imelda

All, thanks all for these post. I now have low water pressure at the dura faucet shower head in the bathroom. I live in North Texas same Dale Wilkens (hard water area) and among the many problems I have had with my Oliver after my Utah trip is low to non existent water pressure at the Durafauct shower head in the bathroom. Toilet and kitchen faucet water pressure are fine. I put the durafaucet shower head in a bowl of CLR for an hour or two and while it's is a lot better now but still not great. I was a little suspicious of the water at Farm store in Utah where we filled the fresh water tanks in April. I was thinking that in addition to hard water there may have been a lot of sediment in the water. I am going to order another durafaucet shower head from amazon per Dave Wilson and Frank C suggestions and and I am assuming I can just unscrew the old one and put in a the new one. I am also going to drain the hot water heater and check the anode. I have only used it once. Mostly I dry camp and use the propane. And how do I go about flushing the water system with white vinegar to get ride of any deposits and I assume I have to bypass the water heater? I did replace the water pump filter even though it looked ok and it didn't improve the shower head water pressure.

Can I use the electric jacks on the trailer to raise it up on one side of the trailer to get the wheels of that side and then do the other side or is this not a good idea? Just edited this when i found a thread that says I can raise one side using the jacks and then the other.

Great, thank you. I just ordered it. Imelda

What is the best wheel bearing grease to use to pack the wheel bearing on my Oliver? There are a lot of grease options. Should I use Timken's high performances or is Lucas Oil grease just as good?

Jim, thank you. Looks like a really messy job and I have someone recommended coming out but I want to make sure it goes well so my being knowledgeable on how it should go would be helpful. Also where can I purchase some spare bearings in case we have to replace some after we check them. Imelda

I am going to have some one come by and pack the wheel bearings on my Oliver. It has just hit the first 12,000 miles according to my mileage log. I would like to know how to do this so I can watch and make sure its being done correctly. Is there a how to pack Oliver wheel bearings video somewhere I can watch? Imelda

I have to have a microwave. I am not a very good cook, reheating is more my game. However one thing I have found invaluable when travelling in my Oliver is a small air fryer I bring along. It doesn't take up much space and it has tons of recipes for it and a lot of food I buy in the freezer section (healthy of course) comes with air fryer heating instructions. https://www.amazon.com/Ultrean-Electric-Nonstick-Certified-Warranty/dp/B07FF117K7/ref=sr_1_11?crid=3RZAVO5YW2AN&keywords=air%2Bfryer&qid=1652042757&sprefix=air%2B%2Caps%2C143&sr=8-11&th=1

Congrats to you for taking on something this complex. I try to do most of the repairs and maintenance myself but I couldn't crease wheel bearings. Fortunately I live in North Texas Horse Country with lots of trailer here so there are some good reputable places I can bring my Oliver to for service like this.

Success, I got the new microwave in. 😃 I replaced the High Point one with a Toshiba EM925A5A-BS That was a lot cheaper than High point. It is the same size and wattage and I was able to use the existing trim, screws etc. from the Non functioning High point.

Thank you Bill. I finally figured it out. There was a another electrical line (black conduit) along with a yellow one running back there blocking the access hole so when lifted them both up with a screw driver I was able to wiggle power cord out and get the new microwave power cord in. see attached pic. I used a piece of string tied to the plug to pull it through. I got the new microwave in now. It's working but I haven't got the trim back on yet. Fingers crossed.

Help, I posted before my microwave quit working so I got a Toshiba replacement, same size, same wattage etc. The problem I have is removing the old microwave. See pic. I cannot pull the power cord plug through the over head cabinet. Anyone have any ideas? I don't want to cut the power cord (even though the microwave is not working) because I will have same the problem pushing the new microwave power cord through to the outlet in the cabinet above. I could take the cover of the microwave and disconnect the power cord and pull it through for the bad microwave and then again for the new one. Anyone got any suggestions? I wonder how did the Oliver people get the power plug through in the first place.

Just saw this on Amazon. Might do the job and I can cut it with a rotary cutter I have.

I just had exactly the same thing happen to me out in Utah when my door flew in 70 mph wind so I am looking at John's idea of epoxy back filling and a bigger metal plate to cover it. Has anyone tried this? John, were I can get the 0.032” 6061 T6 aluminum plate?

High point microwave stopped heating - it turns on and carousel turns but food doesn't heat. I understand this could be the magnetron or a high voltage diode. Has anyone had this experience? My Oliver is less than 2 years old so I am wondering if the microwave that was manufactured Sept 2019 is still under warranty. It looks simple enough to pull out and replace.

Hi all. I made it back from Utah in one piece with a few things to fix on my Oliver. Nothing like the bad luck QuestionMark had in New Mexico. I am going to make separate posts of them. 1. High point microwave stopped heating - it turns on and carousel turns but food doesn't heat. I understand this could be the magnetron or a high voltage diode. 2. We had 70 mph winds out in Utah and the door flew open and punched the door stop through the door. 3. The faucet in the bathroom is trickling water. Maybe the filter at the facet head is clogged. Water pressure is good. 4. Kitchen faucet is leaking again. Gorilla tape did not hold it so I will have to replace it.

I am sorry to hear this and that you are all well. I think we past you on the road in New Mexico driving out Oliver on that day between Clovis and Fort Summer. We only saw one Oliver on our trip out to Utah. I had quite a few things go wrong on my trip but nothing like this. I cancelled the insurance on my Oliver but I am thinking that might be a mistake. Too many crazy drivers out there.

All, I would like to get your feedback. See attached pdf. A neighbor who is in the building industry come over to look at my under-sink water leak problem. He said it looks like the weight on the faucet hose was getting caught behind the drawers under the sink (there is not clearance) and it’s a bad idea to have drawers here but Oliver should use cabinet doors like most under sink storage areas. In my case, the white push in connector loosened and had a slow leak hence the plywood damage and finally it came apart. Now I have the mildew cleaned up, he suggested I should put large glue on vinyl tiles on the plywood to stop any future water damage and get cabinet doors installed. This will leave a bigger storage area where I can put cleaning supplies, paper towels etc. and have more access to check plumbing in area for leaks. Also he said something needs to change on the location of the refrigerator plug as it is in a wet area and not a cfgi plug and is not safe. I am going to forward all of this to Oliver and have their quality people look at it. I recommend everyone that has this Oliver set up pull out the bottom drawer under the sink and check periodically for leaks. I would like to hear your feed back. Under Sink Leak Hull# 642 .pdf

All, latest update. The saga continues. I did get a blue clip that Townesw showed in his pic but now that I have looked at it I am left wondering if the faucet I have didn't come with a blue clip. If you look at Townesw pic on the left and mine on the right they do not look like the same connectors. Mine on the left has push in clips holding it together and now I have a blue clip I am not sure if I can get it on. Also my connector looks longer. I have a neighbor that is pretty handy with plumbing that is going to take a look. Maybe the push in clips in mine were all that was intended to hold it together until they didn't. So far with the water pump the connector is holding but I am wondering if I hook up city water that has higher pressure, will it blue apart again. I have put the drawers back yet. Anyone have any thoughts? I submitted a ticket to Oliver on this issue but I need to follow up with a phone call to them and get this cleared up. Maybe I should just get duct tape and tape it together 😁 Or just not use the sink since it wasn't getting used as I didn't notice it actually had a pull down sprayer and someone pointed that out to me!

Yes. It does have a sprayer. Just shows how much time I spend at my😃Oliver kitchen sink.

I did remove the back panel under the sink and located the refrigerator plug. It does not look like any water got back there but I am pretty sure it is not GFCI plug. Anyway the latest is that I did order up a new faucet but when I pushed the sprayer hose connector back the leak was fixed. This was one of the suggestions in the previous posts that the sprayer hose line had come apart. I cancelled the new faucet and saved myself $150. See the attached pics. I believe what happened was the blue clip needed to hold the connector together was NOT installed at the factory (no blue clip could be found anywhere) and I am pretty sure if it just popped of then it would be laying under the sink area. NO where to be found. So one day the city water pressure blew it apart and started the leak. Now I need to get a blue clip to hold the connector together otherwise it going disconnect again. Anyone have any idea where I could get this blue clip? I am going to call Oliver service and see if they will send out one. I leave in 2 weeks. And I still have to deal with the water rotted panels in that area. I guess the lesson learned here is that the kitchen drawers should be pulled out and this area checked for leaks and water damage as part of routine maintenance. l

Rivernerd, thank you so much for excellent information. It would be a big undertaking for me to replace the plywood under the sink. It's not in good shape right now but I am worried about black mold. The leak has obviously been going on and unnoticed for a while. The last trip out in Oct 2021 the pump would occasional run for a few seconds when every faucet etc. was turned off. I suspected a small leak somewhere but couldn't find it. I have 2 weeks until I leave for Utah. I am going to try your suggestion on the bleach and mold and mildew-killing primer as a short term fix. I may take a rotary cutter and cut a small hole in the base plywood to see how bad things look under the plywood. I have a couple of friends that are good at carpentry that could help replace the plywood when I get back. I think I should just replace the faucet rather than trying to make the old leaky one work short term and then fail on my trip. The one Mike's used looks like a good replacement. And per John's suggestion I need to check the refrigerator connections at the back. It's a little dangerous for the electrics to be this close to water. Live and learn. For sure adding pulling out the kitchen drawers to check for leaks on a routine check list. I had to get help on how to get these out and that's on another post. I am going to submit a ticket to Oliver regarding this.

All, I did get the drawers out under the sink and I did find the leak (see attached pdf) and I saw like the picture above accept the black water line had disconnected from it counter part under the sink. It must have been leaking for some time so yes this area should be checked frequently for water damage. So now, can I connect up the black water line again by just pushing it together with its counter part and it looks the plywood will have to be replaced? Any suggestions on how to go about that? Under the sink water leak.pdf

To replace the faucet I have to remove the kitchen drawers. How do I get them o