Imelda

Hi all, Imelda back on line again. A quick update. I did buy a Nissan Titan SV in September last year as my 2010 F250 had to go due to mechanical problems. I did use the new Titan SV to pull my Oliver 2 about 3000 there and back to Tennessee from Texas with no problems. Later, I took your advice and bought the Andersen WDH. I have it installed ready for our next trip to Utah. I just need a strong neighbor (stronger than me even with a cheater bar) to come over and tighten it all down for me. When I was shopping around for Titans last September they were only 2 available, just the basic trucks - manual seats (I have to sit on a cushion to see over the steering wheel), no dual climate control just one knob with red and blue to manually adjust the temperature and it drives me crazy. No Semiconductor chips available then, I guess. My Titan did NOT come with the complete tow package. It doesn't have a way to adjust the trailer braking inside. It does have the sway control (i think) and the hitch receiver with the 5 prong trailer plug. I was just at Nissan dealership this week getting the oil changed and now they have 22 new Titans (2023) on the lot so I am thinking of trading in the Titan I have for one that has the options I want or need. So my question is. Do I need the trailer breaking ability inside the truck? I may still have to use the Titan I have for the Utah trip. Will I be ok with the Andersen hitch and the Oliver breaking system or do you think I should have the internal breaking? We are not going to be going down any major hills and I think the sway control going west with the winds through Texas, New Mexico , Colorado and Utah but with the Andersen hitch I should be good? Some advice on the breaking would be very helpful. Imelda

Thanks all for pointing out the ball size and chain length. Yip I need the 2" ball. I believe the 4" drop should work my Titan and I will check the chain length.

Thank you all. I am taking all good advice I have been given and I am ordering the Andersen hitch (currently on sale) at camping world. I believe this is the one I saw on an Oliver. Can someone confirm this is the right one before I purchase? https://www.campingworld.com/andersen-hitches-weight-distribution-hitch-4-drop-rise-133946.html?utm_source=google&utm_medium=ppc&utm_campaign={Campaign}&gclid=CjwKCAjw8JKbBhBYEiwAs3sxN_swK0-DWOO1nkSLi6t__q0Lc_JIKQAc2_Itxouk9aO7kVPFo5wELBoC2JYQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

The Nissan Manual says weight distributing hitch is recommended for towing over 5000lbs but then it has a disclaimer that if you don't have the right type of weight distributing hitch installed or installed incorrectly then you can have serious problems with the surge brakes. I am going into the Nissan service next week (for a recall) so I will talk to them some more. As I said I am on the fence here as to adding an Andersen hitch, it doesn't look to hard to install but I am concerned that if it's not the right one for the Titan or I don't have it set up correctly I could be in worse shape.

Hi, all. It's been a while since I have been on the forum. I wanted to give an update. I did replace my F250 6.7L diesel with a Nissan Titan V8. My Ford was starting to have problems like the fuel pump going out and even Ford recommended I trade it in -- so I got the Titan. I just got back from Roan Mountain etc. in Tennessee about 2000 miles hauling round trip. The Titan pulled my Oliver2 like a champ. I do not have the Andersen hitch setup on the trailer as I previously didn't need it with the diesel truck and on I30 and I40 through Texas, Arkansas and Tennessee with the big semi passing at 75mph and I didn't see any signs of swaying. Of course we were driving mostly in the right lane at 70mph or less. So I am on the fence about adding an Andersen Hitch to my trailer. I looked at a OL2 with an Andersen camped near us and it's doesn't look like a big deal to add it but I have heard that if the sway control is not on correctly it can become more dangerous with it on. I did talk to the Nissan Service and while in the Nissan manual it recommends sway control and leveling if towing over 5000lbs they told me if I kept the tanks empty and the trailer close to the dry weight when hauling and weight distributed evenly throughout the trailer (which I believe it is in the case with the Oliver), Nissan didn't think I needed the sway control. My next trip out is April 2023 so I have a while to ponder what best to do.

Sorry for my late response. I haven't been on the forum for a while. I try to do most of the repairs myself but I am lucky that I have horse friends with horse trailers living close to me that are really good at doing trailer maintain and DIYs so I have been getting them to do the hard manual stuff like the greasing wheel bearings etc. for me. I have heard some horror stories about using the RV repair places in I35 north of Denton with long wait times and shoddy work.

Thank you. I will do the math again. I may have to jettison a dog or my 😏 passenger

The main reason for trading in my F250 6.4L for the Nissan Titan was that the Ford was getting up there in years (13yrs old) but not a lot of mileage (84K). It needed the fuel pump replaced (~$5000) and I was told it was going to turn into a money pit by a Ford diesel mechanic and others. Next to go out would be engine seals and so on - So I thought this Titan would be good comprise for my mostly flat land Elite 2 pulling and also I could use it for running around in without breaking the bank in fuel costs. So time will tell if I made the right decision - if not then I will trade the Titan for something bigger. I will keep you all posted.

There is actually a class 4 hitch on this model but I am checking into getting an Andersen WDH also. I think the cargo weight should be under 1200lbs, (400lbs Oliver tongue weight plus 2 medium size people and 2 dogs 400lbs approx. and plus no more than 400lbs misc. stuff like coolers, lawn chairs etc. in the bed). I am going to be finding out in a months time when I go to Tennessee. I see no more than approx. 7000 miles of towing the Elite 2 with this Titan per year and mostly will be flat land towing. I live in N Texas and the non flat land will be when I go to Colorado in the summer.

All, thanks for the advice. I just bought a 2022 Nissan Titan V8 at a local dealership. I will keep you all posted on how it does pulling my Elite2. I will be taking it to the Smokey Mtns, Tennessee from here in North Texas early October. I tried to upload a pic but it looks like there is a problem uploading.

Thank you all for the good inputs. I am considering the pro and cons of keeping my F250 or buying a new F150. I still have to fix the fuel pump on the F250 regardless but I am leaning towards a new F150. I will keep you posted. Imelda

A lot of things to consider here. You are right the $50K need to buy the lesser truck would buy a lot of diesel. My F250 6.4L truck pulls the trailer like its pulling nothing, It's a 2010 84K miles. This year I had some major repairs, brakes, coolant hoses and now fuel pump needs to be replaced. Up to now its been a great truck. And I would just like to have a new truck with lots of buttons and updates. There are no F250s or F350s available here in Texas so I was thinking F150 V8 would do the job but you are right - am I make a sensible decision or just frustrated at chasing down repairs. ..... still thinking

Do I need an Andersen hitch with the F150? That was what was good about my F250, I didn't need it.

Thank you Thank you. Are you going to need any weight distribution etc. added?

Hi all, just wanted to hear if anyone out there is using a F150 V8 2WD to pull their Oliver. I am considering buying one of these F150 and not using my F250 6.4 L diesel to pull due to high diesel cost. Imelda

Thank you - I try. Yes, you are right I didn't need to take the slats out to get the drawers out but I needed more access to under the sink to get the faucet out to replace it so I took them out. I should have put some super glue etc. per your suggestion on the screw holes on the slats to hold the drawers better in the long run. I may have to go back and do that in the future if they start flying out down the road. Oliver told me 55psi on the Cooper tires I have but we were looking at the wear on the tires (just under 13K miles) and we were thinking they were wearing not uniform so I am going to bump then up to 60psi for my next trip.

I recently had to get all the drawers out under the sink so I could replace a leaking faucet. To get more access to under the sink I unscrewed the wooden slats that hold drawer latches. When I put them back on again after replacing the faucet, I had a hell of a time getting the middle drawer to latch even though I had marked where to put the slats back. So what I did was to take the middle drawer back out, take the wood slat with latch of again, then put the drawer back in so it was flush, aligned the slat with the latch latching the drawer and then screwed the slat back again so it was latching. So far so good. It's latching again. I would still like to replace the 2 lower drawer under the sink with cabinet doors but right now I have way to many projects going so I will put this on the back burner for now.

Thank you for rotating the pics. Looks better now!

I am going to follow this as my manual awning has the same problem. When I close it it is stays out about 2inches on the rear and I don't want to force it.

Hi all. I had discussed my problem of very low water pressure at my shower faucet even with the faucet head removed on an earlier post. No issues at kitchen, outside faucet or toilet. I decided to share this on a separate post on how I fixed the problem since others might have this problem sometime. I bought the vinegar (see pic) at Home Depot and was planning on pumping it though the fresh water tank (bypassing the water heater) and decalcifying before my next trip. But meanwhile I had the idea of removing the faucet head, turn of water or pump and drain as much of the water out of the shower water line as I could. Then I took a syringe - see pic (no needle) and slowly over 1 hr. injected about 2 cups of the vinegar down the faucet hose (see pic) . Be sure to wear gloves and eye protection as the vinegar will burn. I hung the shower hose to the shower holder so I got max amount of vinegar down the hose. Pics need to be rotated 90 degrees. After 1 hr. I went back and turned on the water pump and water pressure is back to normal. 👍

Thank you for the suggestions. When I remove the shower head, the flow is still low coming out from the shower hose. So I am thinking to pour the 100% vinegar or maybe CLR down the shower hose and see if that clears it up. My concern is that either the 100% vinegar or CLR might damage any rubber grommets in the shower hose or anywhere else it might get to. What do you think would the vinegar or CLR be safe to use? Imelda

I was wondering if there are any filters back under the bathroom sink there that are blocked. it's odd that both the hot and cold water at the shower faucet have low pressure while the kitchen faucet (I just replaced it) and toilet are good. I replaced the dura facet shower head and with the white vinegar flush and soaked it in CLR - it is better but not great and I can likely live with it. I am going to start using the Camco water filter you recommended but I am not sure it will filter the high calcium we have here in N Texas. I may need to add a water softener. I will try a few more options before I remove the panel to get to under the bathroom sink. It seems I have had a lot of minor problems with my Oliver for only owning it for 2 years now. So far I have been able to fix them. Before I had a big horse trailer with living quarters that seemed to be a lot more durable. I guess it had to be well built to haul several thousand pounds of horses down the road. I had been told travel trailers are not that well built so that is why I choose Oliver. It interests me to fix problems. The Oliver service dept. are responsive when I ask for help but there are things I have pointed out to them that they can definitely improve on. The forum is great and I appreciate all the help.

Thank you. I am learning a lot and this forum is very helpful. The pressure has improved some with the white vinegar flush but it's still not 100%. I thought this might be the way to access under the bathroom sink but it looks like a lot of work so I might try a few more things before I go this route.

So an update to my problem on no clearance to get the street side jack head off. I finally broke down and cut a 1/2 inch of the fiberglass using a rotary cutter so I could get the head off. see pic below. I had no problem with getting the curb side jack head off. I wonder if anyone else has had to do this? All jacks are now greased.

I would like to know to access the plumbing under the bathroom sink. Is there a post somewhere I missed describing how to? I am still chasing down my bathroom faucet low water pressure.