Imelda

help, I am camping and it has happened again where I loose the on shore power. The inverter works, no microwave etc. and I tried to reset the GFCI plug for the inverter. Does not seem to work now. There is also a black button under there that I pushed - no luck. The inverter works but no on shore power. I have had this same problem before when I had the microwave running and a electric kettle but resetting the inverter GFCI has worked. I am using a generator and I know I have 120 volts coming out of it. What does the black button do?

I think it got torn trying to raise it up to get to the fresh water tank drain valve that is located just under it. I am leaving this Friday so I will just use the aluminum HVAC tape for now as it is unlikely we will be using the heater and then come the spring check to see how it is holding up and repair it more then if needed. Thanks all. Imelda

The sliver heating duct that runs under the bed and next to the water pump has torn. I need to tape it together. What is the best tape to do this? Would duct tape work?

Ok I went back out and fired up the generator with the surge protector, turned on the microwave all all is good. Thank you

The surge protector came in today from Amazon. I fired up the generator, plus the trailer into it and ran the microwave. It ran for 30 secs and then shut down the voltage output at the generator. So something else is going on. I am wondering if I should disable something in the trailer so I can run it of the generator. I am also going to call the generator tech support and see if they have any ideas. This does not happen with the 4000 watt champion generator I have. Imelda

Thank you. I ordered the one from Amazon, coming in Friday. I will let you know how it goes.

Hi all. I ended up buying the A-iPowered Yamaha 1800 running watts generator. The generator runs fine but when I plug the trailer into it and just run the microwave which that size generator can handle easily, it shuts down the generator. There were two Oliver owners at our camp site who told me the Oliver trailer sees the generator as a floating or open ground and that I needed to get a plug for the generator that will fixed the ground issue. One guys said he got his from Oliver and the other owner made his own but I was told can easily pick up a plug for this in Home Depot or any hardware store. Can someone tell me what I need to buy to solve this? Imelda

I am going to try a flat antenna first in window or the attic. I use these in my house to pick up channels for local news. I use the internet for the rest. I am waiting for the StarLink coverage to be better. I very rarely watch TV when I am out camping but sometimes its good to check in on the local stations. So I will try this. If I get a good wireless signal I can use my phone as a hot spot to check news channels on my computer or I can just use the phone Thank you all.

Can anyone recommend a small portable inexpensive TV antenna that I could use on my Oliver 11 that I can plug into the external TV/cable connector on side of the Oliver that can pick up some local TV stations. Thank you.

All, thank you but I am not going to install a soft start - no way am I getting up on the roof. So can anyone recommend a quiet, portable generator, not too heavy that can run the Oliver ac without adding a soft start. I have a champion 4KW that does the job but its noisy and heavy so I want someone lighter, quiet, easy start and reliable with enough power to run the ac

It's a Dometic ac unit but i am not sure of the model as I cannot find it in the Oliver manual. Likely the 13500 unit. How do I go about adding the soft start?

Hi, all. I want to buy a small portable quiet generator to charged up my Oliver when dry camping. My question is if the model I want to order A-ipower Yamaha generator 1800 running watts with peak wattage 2300W would have enough power to run the AC?

Ok I got it fixed. I found the reset button in the inverter panel. Sorry for the false alarm.

Help, I am out camping and I lost AC power in the trailer. DC seems ok. 120V AC is coming in to the trailer. I was running the microwave and a kettle when power went off. I checked the breakers under beneath the dinette and all is good. I checked the inverter GIF and its good. What else can be wrong?

Since I live in Texas all I have done for winterizing is drain all the water out of the RV and if it got cold I ran a space heater in it just to to be safe. It doesn't get that cold here. Now I am ready to hit the road and may get into some low to mid teen temperatures so I wanted to know if running the furnace would be ok for boondocking and prevent tanks and water lines freezing.

Thank you all.

I have a 2020 Oliver 11 elite with the standard water heater night temp may be as low as 12F and day in the mid 35F

I drained the water heater as part of the winterizing and put the aside anode. Now I am going out so how tight should I tighten the anode in the water heater. I have the socket for it and the socket wrench.

How cold can it be outside for dry camping (boondocking? Where I am going may get down to 12F and I will be running the heater/furnace inside.

Thank you all. I plan to use your advice.

Hi all, I love this forum. I have find it very helpful. I live in North Texas and it does not get that cold here. Maybe a few nights in the low to mid 20 -32F. I am planning on travelling in early Feb so I am wondering about winterizing given that we do not have such cold winters here, I do not want to use RV antifreeze but I was wondering if I just ran a space heater in the Oliver on the few cold nights if that would prevent the pipes etc. freezing. I do this with my Horse Trailer w living quarters. I had the Oliver in Utah recently when the temperature got down to 15F running the propane heater inside with no problems. Lots of other rv'ers had pipes freeze that night. I have the standard DSII 6 gallon water Any advice would be very much appreciated.

Hi all. Continuing the topic of the slow draining grey water waste. It does seem that all the valves are working correctly so I tried the suggestion of tilting the trailer to the back so that it might drain better. So I parked it on a 30% slope and that did the trick of complete and fast draining of the grey water. So now I know at the dump station I am going to have to raise the front of the trailer and maybe that passenger side a little too. I may have to unhook the hitch from the truck to get it raised higher and may take more time at the dump station. I may not be the most popular person at a busy dump station. 😀 Anyone have experience on high I should raise the front of the trailer and maybe what angle the trailer should slope from front to back? I guess the bigger the slope the faster it will drain. Thanks all for the suggestions. This is really a very useful forum.

Thank you. I checked and found the grey shut valve under the street side bed and it does appear to be working. It may be the design of the grey water tank and outlets that I have to have the trailer on a good angle so that the back if the trailer is lower than the front to get the grey water to drain. I am going to try this next.

Thank you. Dark now but I plan to try all of these tips tomorrow. I think something must be closed. Should the valve in the shower be open or closed when draining the grey water?

How many drain valves are there? So far I have found the black and grey water discharge valves at the very back compartment on the street side and there is one in the toilet/shower. Should the valve in the toilet/shower/ be closed or open when drain the grey and black water holding tanks?