
Imelda
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Everything posted by Imelda
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Bath Furnace Was Not Blowing... No Wonder!
Imelda replied to Nick R.'s topic in Mechanical & Technical Tips
I would like to know to access the plumbing under the bathroom sink. Is there a post somewhere I missed describing how to? I am still chasing down my bathroom faucet low water pressure. -
HOW TO : Service your rear electric jacks
Imelda replied to John E Davies's topic in Mechanical & Technical Tips
John, good instructions. I am doing my rear jacks now so this is very helpful but I ran into a problem. On the street side rear jack there is not enough clearance of the fiber glass above to get the jack head off to grease it - see pic the curb side was good and I got it greased even thought it took using a cheater bar on the allen wrench to get the recessed screws loosened. They were so tight. Tongue jack was easy to do. Has anyone had this problem? It looked like they had a problem putting the jack on in the first place as there is a ding in the fiber glass. I don't think I can maneuver it out of there and I may have to take a rotary cutter and cut the fiber glass back by a small amount so I can get more clearance to get the top of the jack off to grease it. Imelda -
All, I would like to hear how this goes. I still have to repair mine. Imelda
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Wow, I have an update on the blocked Dura faucet shower head. I removed the anode from the water heater to flush it out. I run the water heater of propane since we mostly dry camp so I have not checked the anode in a while. When I took it out all this junk came out (even though it hasn't been used) and the anode was down to the wire. (see pics) I was really surprised - so this junk may be the source of my clogged shower head water. I am replacing the shower head so I will see if that fixes it. So now I have to jump on a water heater thread. My questions are: 1. If I am using just propane why did this anode perish? 2. Could I remove the anode and just have a drain plug and continue to use the propane? 3. How do I stop the rust forming around the drain plug seen on the pic?
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Thank you all, really good advice here - I will replace the dura faucet shower head, flush the water system with White vinegar ( by pass water heater of course) and invest in a quality water filter.
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All, thank you so much for the heads up so I guess I will need a jack and a bottle of "Jack" to complete the job>
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And of course a bottle of Jack would definitely improve the situationš
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I have these drive on trailer jacks I was thinking of using on my Oliver. I have used them on my horse trailers. Trust me, there is nothing more stressful than changing a flat tire along a busy highway with horses in my horse trailer. Using this I don't have to unhook the horse trailer or have to get the horses out. So I was thinking of hooking up the Oliver and using this to take the wheels of and repack them one by one. Anybody see why this would not work? Imelda
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All, thanks all for these post. I now have low water pressure at the dura faucet shower head in the bathroom. I live in North Texas same Dale Wilkens (hard water area) and among the many problems I have had with my Oliver after my Utah trip is low to non existent water pressure at the Durafauct shower head in the bathroom. Toilet and kitchen faucet water pressure are fine. I put the durafaucet shower head in a bowl of CLR for an hour or two and while it's is a lot better now but still not great. I was a little suspicious of the water at Farm store in Utah where we filled the fresh water tanks in April. I was thinking that in addition to hard water there may have been a lot of sediment in the water. I am going to order another durafaucet shower head from amazon per Dave Wilson and Frank C suggestions and and I am assuming I can just unscrew the old one and put in a the new one. I am also going to drain the hot water heater and check the anode. I have only used it once. Mostly I dry camp and use the propane. And how do I go about flushing the water system with white vinegar to get ride of any deposits and I assume I have to bypass the water heater? I did replace the water pump filter even though it looked ok and it didn't improve the shower head water pressure.
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Can I use the electric jacks on the trailer to raise it up on one side of the trailer to get the wheels of that side and then do the other side or is this not a good idea? Just edited this when i found a thread that says I can raise one side using the jacks and then the other.
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Great, thank you. I just ordered it. Imelda
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What is the best wheel bearing grease to use to pack the wheel bearing on my Oliver? There are a lot of grease options. Should I use Timken's high performances or is Lucas Oil grease just as good?
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Jim, thank you. Looks like a really messy job and I have someone recommended coming out but I want to make sure it goes well so my being knowledgeable on how it should go would be helpful. Also where can I purchase some spare bearings in case we have to replace some after we check them. Imelda
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I am going to have some one come by and pack the wheel bearings on my Oliver. It has just hit the first 12,000 miles according to my mileage log. I would like to know how to do this so I can watch and make sure its being done correctly. Is there a how to pack Oliver wheel bearings video somewhere I can watch? Imelda
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I have to have a microwave. I am not a very good cook, reheating is more my game. However one thing I have found invaluable when travelling in my Oliver is a small air fryer I bring along. It doesn't take up much space and it has tons of recipes for it and a lot of food I buy in the freezer section (healthy of course) comes with air fryer heating instructions. https://www.amazon.com/Ultrean-Electric-Nonstick-Certified-Warranty/dp/B07FF117K7/ref=sr_1_11?crid=3RZAVO5YW2AN&keywords=air%2Bfryer&qid=1652042757&sprefix=air%2B%2Caps%2C143&sr=8-11&th=1
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Congrats to you for taking on something this complex. I try to do most of the repairs and maintenance myself but I couldn't crease wheel bearings. Fortunately I live in North Texas Horse Country with lots of trailer here so there are some good reputable places I can bring my Oliver to for service like this.
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Success, I got the new microwave in. š I replaced the High Point one with a Toshiba EM925A5A-BS That was a lot cheaper than High point. It is the same size and wattage and I was able to use the existing trim, screws etc. from the Non functioning High point.
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Thank you Bill. I finally figured it out. There was a another electrical line (black conduit) along with a yellow one running back there blocking the access hole so when lifted them both up with a screw driver I was able to wiggle power cord out and get the new microwave power cord in. see attached pic. I used a piece of string tied to the plug to pull it through. I got the new microwave in now. It's working but I haven't got the trim back on yet. Fingers crossed.
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Help, I posted before my microwave quit working so I got a Toshiba replacement, same size, same wattage etc. The problem I have is removing the old microwave. See pic. I cannot pull the power cord plug through the over head cabinet. Anyone have any ideas? I don't want to cut the power cord (even though the microwave is not working) because I will have same the problem pushing the new microwave power cord through to the outlet in the cabinet above. I could take the cover of the microwave and disconnect the power cord and pull it through for the bad microwave and then again for the new one. Anyone got any suggestions? I wonder how did the Oliver people get the power plug through in the first place.
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I just had exactly the same thing happen to me out in Utah when my door flew in 70 mph wind so I am looking at John's idea of epoxy back filling and a bigger metal plate to cover it. Has anyone tried this? John, were I can get the 0.032ā 6061 T6 aluminum plate?
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High point microwave stopped heating - it turns on and carousel turns but food doesn't heat. I understand this could be the magnetron or a high voltage diode. Has anyone had this experience? My Oliver is less than 2 years old so I am wondering if the microwave that was manufactured Sept 2019 is still under warranty. It looks simple enough to pull out and replace.
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Hi all. I made it back from Utah in one piece with a few things to fix on my Oliver. Nothing like the bad luck QuestionMark had in New Mexico. I am going to make separate posts of them. 1. High point microwave stopped heating - it turns on and carousel turns but food doesn't heat. I understand this could be the magnetron or a high voltage diode. 2. We had 70 mph winds out in Utah and the door flew open and punched the door stop through the door. 3. The faucet in the bathroom is trickling water. Maybe the filter at the facet head is clogged. Water pressure is good. 4. Kitchen faucet is leaking again. Gorilla tape did not hold it so I will have to replace it.
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I am sorry to hear this and that you are all well. I think we past you on the road in New Mexico driving out Oliver on that day between Clovis and Fort Summer. We only saw one Oliver on our trip out to Utah. I had quite a few things go wrong on my trip but nothing like this. I cancelled the insurance on my Oliver but I am thinking that might be a mistake. Too many crazy drivers out there.
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Water Leak Somewhere under the Kitchen Sink Area
Imelda replied to Imelda's topic in Mechanical & Technical Tips
All, I would like to get your feedback. See attached pdf. A neighbor who is in the building industry come over to look at my under-sink water leak problem. He said it looks like the weight on the faucet hose was getting caught behind the drawers under the sink (there is not clearance) and itās a bad idea to have drawers here but Oliver should use cabinet doors like most under sink storage areas. In my case, the white push in connector loosened and had a slow leak hence the plywood damage and finally it came apart. Now I have the mildew cleaned up, he suggested I should put large glue on vinyl tiles on the plywood to stop any future water damage and get cabinet doors installed. This will leave a bigger storage area where I can put cleaning supplies, paper towels etc. and have more access to check plumbing in area for leaks. Also he said something needs to change on the location of the refrigerator plug as it is in a wet area and not a cfgi plug and is not safe. I am going to forward all of this to Oliver and have their quality people look at it. I recommend everyone that has this Oliver set up pull out the bottom drawer under the sink and check periodically for leaks. I would like to hear your feed back. Under Sink Leak Hull# 642 .pdf