Imelda

Mike, I like the idea of a sprayer. Does it have to be an RV faucet or can any faucet work?

Hi all. Imelda again. In 2 weeks I leave for Utah. I decided to fire up the Oliver 2 I have and check everything out .I have a water leak that appears to be at or near the kitchen sink faucet. Bathroom and toilet are fine. I leave in N Texas and I didn't winterize since I wanted to have the option of travel over winter - which I never did. A couple of nights when it got into the teens I ran a Space heater in keep the temps up in the Oliver and prevent the pipes from freezing. The leak only happens when the kitchen faucet is on and it sounds to be underneath it and its a BIG water leak. Like maybe a coupling is loose or broken. Bathroom and toilet are fine- no leaks there. It leaks with either the pump on or the city line water hooked up. Are there videos on how I get the faucet out and check the connections or how do I get to that area under the sink? Pulling out the kitchen drawers? Now that I have thought about it it must be the faucet itself leaking and not the connections to it as it only leaks when I turn the faucet on. Any ideas on how to replace this faucet. I don't even know what brand it is.

I am thinking the same thing. Diesel trucks are expensive to work on and I don't need my current tow vehicle that can put up to 19,000 lbs. to tow an Oliver2. So, I am back to mulling over the Titan XD but not sure if I need a 4WD. I plan to stay on pavement and the 4WD would add cost and more things to go wrong. Anyone got any thoughts on the 4WD option.

kmoon4545 it is the Titan XD I have in mind to pull the Oliver. On your XD do you just use a regular hitch without any problems with swaying etc?

Thanks all for the feed back. I am considering all points made here. Given the outrageous asking prices and lack of availability of new trucks maybe I should just get my current F250 6.7L (that I already own that easily pulls the trailer without an Anderson hitch) own cleaned and detailed so its like a new truck. I am going to think on this some more. Imelda

Hi all, I currently pull my Oliver 2 with a F250 6.7L diesel which is a bit of an over kill to tow it. The truck doesn't know it even pulling the trailer. The price of diesel is through the roof, gas is much cheaper and trying to find diesel pumps can be harder than the regular gas pumps. Down sizing to a smaller tow vehicle will get better gas mileage. I am looking at trading it in for a Nissan Titan SV crew cab or maybe an XD. Anyone have any experience with the Titans and if I go with the smaller SV will I have have install all the sway bars and weight distribution options etc. I don't need those with the current F250 I am using.

Thank you John and all. I did use a 3/8 drill bit to drill out any burrs and now the pin is going in and out freely.

Hi all, thanks for your help and support. Happy days again. An update on my no shore power topic. Progressive sent a replacement surge protector that I just now installed and I am very happy to report all electrics are working again on the trailer. AND I am ordering the soft start and an electrical engineering colleague will install it for me. It looks simple enough to do from the you tube videos I have watched. I could install it - I am an Electronic Engineer but I have a fear of heights so there is no way I could go up on the roof of the trailer. My younger, fitter colleague can. So I will get that done and use the lighter weight, low noise 2K watt generator that I already have. Happy Trails. Imelda

Thank you all. Yes, it makes sense to add the easy start and not lug a heavier and nosier generator around so I think I will go with the Micro-Air easy start that Oliver are offering as an add on option. I am sure I can get someone local to install it and run the ac of my 2K generator

All, I have had trouble getting the right side rear bumper pin in and out from when I got my Ollie last year. The left one seems easier but I have to work hard with silicone grease, wiggling the bumper and a few added profanities to get the right side pin out on my Oliver 2020 Elite 2. The pin has to go through 4 holes with little clearance that have to line up perfectly to get the pin in or out. I have seen a previous post where someone reported the same difficulty and one suggestion was to drill the bumper holes diameter a little larger. Anyone ever try this? Or are there any other suggestions like using a smaller diameter pin etc.

Ralph, I will look into adding the soft start also. I will have to take it to a RV dealer as there is no way I am getting up on the roof of the Oliver to add the soft start. I realized that by going with a 4K generator, its going to be a lot heavier (and likely noisier) than the 2K one I have already and I might not be able to pick up a 4K generator. I am wondering if I could leave a 4K one in the bed of the truck, run it from there and not have to move it. I took the cover of the EMS-HW30C and my voltmeter says there is 120V going into it but nothing coming out so for sure it is broken and needs to be replaced, either the whole unit or just swap out a circuit board as in SteveCr case. I had another question on keeping the batteries topped up. I have solar panels that I did not bring on this trip but could I have used a trickle 12V battery charger plugged into a 120V outlet at the campsite to keep the batteries charged up?

Thank you Steve. I am seeing a 4K watt quiet generator in my xmas stocking this year so I will be able to run a few extras. So far I am running of the batteries and I am at high altitude so I don’t need the ac. When I get good cell service hopefully tomorrow I will call Progressive and get a replacement circuit board and that should do the trick. I will keep you posted on how it works out.

Wow this looks exactly my situation. Thank you so much for sharing. Miss desperate here (I was really hot) here in Bog Bend NP and tried to run the ac of 2K watt generator and had the same outcome I will call Progressive and get a tell them what happened and get a replacement board send out and I can repair it. We are boon docking of the batteries for the next 4 days then home. I will keep you posted.

All see pics above. Yes ac power is coming to the trailer see pic w green light on power cord. The surge protector display is not on and I do not get ac power in the trailer when I switch the bypass ems. I do get dc 12 volts and the inverter works. Just no ac power in the trailer did I fry the ems in the trailer or is there something else going on?

I am wondering if there is another fuse between the surge protector in the trailer and the ac power connection to the trailer I have 12 v dc power

I tried this by pass switch still no ac power

No ac. No power in the trailer other than battery power. The display on the surge protector in the trailer is blank. Doesn’t show error codes. No display at all. I am wondering if there is a fuse or reset button for it.

I am running of the batteries but it would be nice to turn on the ac. It get hot here in the afternoon.

I am connected to 110 V shore power not using the generator. I have 110 volts going to the trailer connected to a camp site outlet but no power at the surge protector display. The display is blank and looks like it has no power to it. Is there a fuse between the surge protectors and the 110V input connector that needs to be reset or did I fry the surge protector? I am running of the batteries but it would be nice to turn on the ac. It get hot here in the afternoon.

so finally I looked at the surge protector Jin Oker suggestion and no lights error codes on the surge protector display what so ever. It looks dead, - Yes there is shore power (I checked with a meter) . So if there are no lights on the surge protectors at all does that mean it is dead or is there another fuse between it and the shore power?

I am never never ever going to try running the ac from a 2K watt generator🥵 no matter how hot it is. Mike at Oliver talked me through the inverter fuse etc. under the driver side bed and flipping these plus resting the GCFI did the trick but not for the ac

Ok everyone. I am back online again. I did get the microwave to come back. It was the GCFI on the inverter plug that was not reset properly. I pushed it again and heard it click so I am good but now the ac will not come on. The display in the ac control panel is on but the set as low as 56F the ac will not turn on. Did I damage it trying to run it on the 2K watt generator? What can I try, are there any fuses? Imelda

What would cause the microwave not to come on?

The generator is ok. When I disconnected it it is still putting out 120V. The problem is the microwave has no power when I connect the generator. I checked the GFCI that the inverter plugs into and reset it. What other fuses should I check? The breakers under the dinette are all on Not sure if I connect to shore power if it will work, if it doesnt work with the generator that used to be ok