Try2Relax
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Posts
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Posts posted by Try2Relax
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Wow, you really scare me, I'm thinking I might have to decide to never retire, just so I can keep all the free time having to work provides...
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John, did yours have lock washers on them, when I made braces to angle the panels, I found mine had lock washers in place and were tight.
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Reed, are you running full wet cell batteries or do you have AGMs? With how low you go with usage, do you think that having AGMs is/would be more beneficial in that scenario? Do they have a larger/more recoverable resource pool to work with?
AGMs are 50% draw down, lithiums are 80-90% draw down, I think that's what I've read. Are Wet Cells the same? If you've run them that far down numerous times do you think the life of them had been shortened and this easier to run them down now/keep them up?
Would you consider switching to lithium, something like Battle Born would be a plug and play as they build the BMS into each battery, so are supposed to be able to plug into most any controller.
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I was disappointed when I tried taking a BATH, turns out it was too shallow for me. :(
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On the Trans-Canada highway, passing over the St Andrews Chanel in Little Bras D'or Nova Scotia on Cape Breton. The Arm of Gold Campground sits right below the bridge, and the first trailer on the end is a single axle Elite, has blue green coloring and a personalized square decal design on the front. No tow vehicle nearby that I noticed, but then I was going over a bridge at 70KPH at the time...
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Those are just to cover the gaps, found a company that creates to spec, size and gaps style and two coats of powder coat.
So are they not cutting the regular vent access in the side? Are they mounting a fan near the exhaust vent to draw the air across?
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Thanks Bill, yup that's what mine looked like when I got it, that's what I thought too but then realized Ron had called it a "sofa" when he spec'd it out on the forum.
BRANDI - I don't know if the two models are the same size in that area, but with the two of us, we now run twin beds exclusively, I still have all the cushions that made up the street side sofa, if you'd like them. If your measurement is a little shorter you could cut one down if need be.
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Oh the humor, I've read your post and every response and only now did it dawn on me, you mean my trailer.
Here is the link to his video, it's long so fast forward till he's inside at least.
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I'm happy to report that I have finally replaced the stock Dometic with a NovaKool 5810.
The swap out wasn't too complicated, however getting the Dometic out (the door) proved to be fatal (for it).
The 5810 is a larger volume, but smaller footprint, width and depth are almost perfect the height is approx 4" shorter, which is also perfect for the space and my process.
Upon removing the old one, I sealed off the two exterior vents and layered 5 sheets of reflectix, to cover the entire exterior wall, I also ran 2 new higher gauge wires for power. The 5810 comes with a 40mm fan mounted directly over the compressor, which is controlled to turn on when it runs, I removed this and replaced it with two quieter high volume fans mounted on top of the unit to draw the air from the rear of the unit.
The extra 4 inches of height allow for the unit to be mounted on 2x1" aluminum channels and leave the remaining space at the top, this the fans draw the coolest air in the trailer in the bottom, up the back and exhaust it out the top, this exhaust air is barely even warm, so it does not really add to trailer temp.
Performance wise, it is a WORLD of difference. One day I let the trailer cook, inside temp 94° held steady at 38° and 19°, cycling on and off as necessary. Unplugged it for a week to see how it affects the battery, no problem handling it, where it's parked is a late sunrise and early sunset, due to hills and trees, morning voltage 12.8 and bluesky monitor indicating 23 amp hours from full.
The temp hold is rock steady, all of this was done with a completely empty fridge, so once there's mass in it it should run less and hold even better.
Max indicated current draw is 4.3 amps on the system.
Personally, I would consider this a completely worthwhile investment and effort.
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I did replace the manual valves with electric ones so that I do not have to manually turn them after crawling down under the bed.
This interests me, could you please provide the details of what you used. Thanks
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Hold that thought. I just asked Foy_Mirna about theirs, cause the picture they posted (cutting board), they look pure white.
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Not to change the subject, from your nicely done cutting board, you make me miss the old sandingmaster 3000, but are your window cover frames pure white and not really OFF white?
What about a nice teak shower floor?
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John, thank you for taking the time. That sketch is perfect and clears it all up. What a great work around for the problem.
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Nevermind, I get it now, rotate the T and everything is copper not PEX so thinner walls. I'm back to can't wait to see it work
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Ahhh, now I have the visual (in my mind) of what you mean. Interesting.. look forward to the first prototype. Only concern 1/2" OD .625 1" ID .875 hopefully it works well enough.
Hmmmm.. Can you draw how the tee works? If the 1/2" is only in the down tube and the top T's are the gravity fill and the other side the trailer draw, then won't the trailer draw suck the air from the top of the tank? How do you break the 1/2" out of the 1" AND keep it a closed system and "pressurized" along the inside tube. That sounds like a completely special built fitting.
Disclaimer-I have limited plumbing knowledge..
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The water tank has an existing penetration on top, the overflow/vent line. I don’t know how accessible that port is, but if it is accessible, I’m wondering if it might be used as an entry port for a new suction line.
2 things - first, that physical tank port if pretty much completely inaccessible, it is located at the front corner of the kitchen drawers under the floor curve.
But that made me think
REED - my guess is that you will find your gravity fill design will take X-longer time to fill with the design you guys are going back and forth on, while the port is on top, the actual fill is located at the bottom of the tank, which means as it fills it will need to level the small fill tube with the entire tank, I would think once the tube holes are covered with water, it could take all day to equalize to fill and if your jug isn't water tight to the connection, then it will just start to come back out the fill tube once it can't equalize fast enough.
But as mentioned above, that vent line is a larger tube and actually feeds the to of the tank, if you remember I posted a picture of it's location in another post, you could cut it at is high point put in a T-valve and tap the gravity feed right there, then you could rig up an interior fill port on the counter right next to the sink or outside of desired.
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Thanks for all the advice. Going to Cape Breton next week, so after that it will come off and be completely replaced.
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I just saw a couple year old Raptor towing a 20'ish stick built, whoa those things sag, at least that one did, looked like it had a full load of concrete in the back, they are SOFT. Be careful until you can get the airbags under it.
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Not having to have done it before, can it just be put over what is there or do I need to remove the old first?
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Hey John, if going naked why not turn the wheel around so the matching side shows?
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While washing the roof, I happen to look down and notice the entry door rain gutter, I haven't had a problem from it just wanted to post a "watch out for"
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$50/night in metro DC is not bad, comparable to commercial RV parks there. In more rural areas they are cheaper but generally comparable to whatever the local KOA is charging. We stayed there for convenience, close to a DC metro stop and because it is one of the nicer military RV parks. Mike
For those in the area, Greenbelt NP can be $8 per night, 12 miles from the White House and a metro (bus) stop at the entrance.
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I'm curious also. So far research indicates veterans, but still digging.
http://traveltips.usatoday.com/rv-campgrounds-military-bases-usa-106293.html
Correction: That's a big negatory, looks like the article stating veterans means retired. Access is for Active, Reserves, 100% disabled, DOD civilian and MOH recipients
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Frank, welcome and good luck with your search. My best recommendation is to go to the main classified folder and without going into any thread, subscribe to the classified section. The moment someone posts a new sale you will get an email, make sure they aren't going to your junk folder and be prepared to be the first one to jump on an opportunity.
I bought mine used, within hours of the original post suggesting he "might be thinking about selling" and the day before he got numerous other calls after people logged in to catch up on postings.
Good luck.
Reed & Karen's Blog -
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Just as a general bit of info. The following photo is at 10:20am and the BlueSky showed 2.6A output