Try2Relax
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Posts
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Posts posted by Try2Relax
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When one foot is on the step and the other is on the ground and you close the circuit....
There are various threads on air forums where people are getting shocked when they open their screen door
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That's awesome! Just imagine how cool of a front graphic you could do with that name.
Welcome to the family.
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Hmmmm... That is where the inverter is on mine, what did they do with it?
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You'll notice the other thread, about the unit in Washington for sale, keep checking that link for when they finally post the photos, they had listed the specifications, before removing the post, the flooring was listed as being the seagrass.
Sorry, guess this would be easier...
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Checking my email updates for the thread, seems another owner posted how loaded it was and stated that it would sell for $70,000 and had it been available 6 months ago they would have"scooped it up" and praising the composting toilet.
So I guess as a good salesman, with dollar signs in his eyes, he headed the advice pull it off the lowly fiberglass RV website, where everyone is selling scamps for pocket change and posted it with the big boys nationwide.
I wonder how long it will have to sit there now, asking that kind of price for a used unit.
It will be an interesting test of value
I just noticed the VIN says 522
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My guess to the "why not" is that a lot of times too many choices can be confusing and overwhelming, to the uninitiated and actually turn people off who aren't good with decisions.
So it's good for a company to pick what works well and at a good price and offer that.
The problem comes in when that is all they offer. This is where Oliver excels, for people who know what they are doing and what they are looking for, they do everything they can to accommodate the customer's request, like the AC, more solar, or even the AC/DC marine fridge.
One just needs to know what they are looking for and ask.
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I've never seen an HDMI connector that didn't fit snug, definitely sounds like that one must have been forced at some point.
For just a little slack you can try the following, then it need be take your cable to it and it should now be snug in the head unit, it would surprise me if it was the head end that loosened.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004VFHMU6/ref=psdcmw_172544_t1_B00455RN92
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I still remember the enchantment, for instance, not far from Hohenwald, of waterfalls and fireflies along the Natchez Trace Parkway at dusk–pure magic. (I do miss those fireflies.)
If you travel a little further east, you can see the fireflies in all their glory, North Carolina - Blue Ridge Parkway - June timeframe
That is Trumpetguy's stomping ground, maybe he'll chime in.
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Double check the fittings on the water lines that run along the rear wall of the compartment. (That was my problem)
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Looking at the photo closely, it doesn't seem the bolt is the rusted/corroded component, looks like it was just the washer. Clean up the bolt and get rid of the ugliness and if correct just install stainless washer and nut. (Disclaimer-I'm on my phone so maybe I can't see it clearly enough.) I replaced my toilet after 1.5 years (had the plastic one) and didn't have any rust issues.
Otherwise, getting to the flange is easy with these, not like a toilet in your house.
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I have the same "stain" as John and I have a Coleman Mach 8, condensate water running off the roof wouldn't bother me, or the hull I would think, it's if there's crap on the roof that mixes with it and it's parked near shedding maples trees.
While the awning gaskets work great to keep the rain from running down the sides, they also collect the water and debris to properly mix it and then focus the runoff to one spot so it REALLY shows...
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We did not intentionally remove the sidebar, however it is now back and working again! That was my fault. Sorry about the confusion for the last few days!
Uh oh, the little sidebar has disappeared again... (Android using Firefox browser)
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I would imagine that they are all built for the lowest common denominator, that being wet cells that need to breath, and while AGMs don't require it even they can have an issue. It's easier to add a couple layers of reflectix if desired, than to drill those holes and add those little screens they put in, in case someone decides they really want to install wet cells.
My trailer has the double insulation completely surrounding the battery box between the hulls, so has no more heat loss than any other part of the hull.
If I knew I we're going lithium, I suppose I would request it be closed off and insulated with holes to the inside for hull heat to keep them as warm as possible when needed (requested part of build I mean)
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So I’m thinking that the Zamp system may have some other issues going on. I’ve seen it hit 14.1vdc once in the last few days in full sun and it has not kicked over to float at all that I have seen… The panels are spotlessly clean along with the rest of the trailer and car, so that’s not the problem.
Wife: Why are you washing the truck again, you just washed it yesterday?
Me: The Ollie's batteries are low.
Wife: Huh? Nevermind, whatever.. ;)
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https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00HV50HKA/ref=ox_sc_act_image_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1
I believe in the US they are made by ITC
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Why don’t you have a mini Oliver Rally and invite all your “friends” wink, wink….
Oliver should open their parking lot to anyone that would like to dry camp for say the night before and after, then people could also plan it for any maybe service needed....
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John,
Back to your discussion, while the Oliver frame is unusual, the original configuration matches what the usual way a trailer frame is connected, does it not?
So is your intent that the Oliver frame allows for a different configuration, so you are taking advantage of that allowance?
I didn't notice, forgot, did you mention that you included Andersen in the details of your configuration and what was their impression?
I'm curious if part of their engineering is that the "V" offers more stability or less stresses, being a photographer I imagine a closed tripod, being less effective (obviously not an engineer)
I don't know how most hook/unhook, I raise the nose slightly to relieve pressure then loosen the rear bolts then remove the chains from the plate, moving the hardware further under the body seems more inconvenient, while being more visually pleasing.
Oh, you mention that you place that one carabineer in the chains to keep them from rubbing the jack, does that not now become your fulcrum point in the system? When in operation and cornering, one side tightens, against the rubber stop, and the other loosens, if you connect the chains together you limit the travel of each?
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We pulled our Elite II from Hohenwald to SE Arizona with our 2012 Tundra (5.7 Liter engine with 4-wheel drive and tow package). –Jeff
Jeff, a lot of the people have the Andersen not for the sway control as much as for the weight distribution, my Sierra 1500 had a max 500lb hitch weight without weight distribution, 1000lbs with, so I needed it and it had GMCs max tow package.
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I would check the wire feed area, in the front under the propane tanks and then bait between the hulls under the front dinette seat
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John,
Looking at your photo with the torque specs, your brace looks like it is mounted straight 90°, if so this will skip and loosen, it should be angled so that the top and bottom contact the bolts, with the lower section forward. If it's just the way I'm looking at your photo, then please disregard.
Edit- rereading the thread you state it is important that they ARE 90°, why is this? For the amount of pressure placed on the system when active and especially in a critical situation, you've induced what looks like a natural point of failure when needed the most, where do you get the torque specs from? Without something physical to keep the brace from slipping (bolt through, welded block as mentioned etc..) slippage would seem eventual.
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I should have asked: do you have the manuals that are normally delivered to the owner? There are many! 95% of your questions will be answered there.
A word of advice to owners of newer Olivers, responding to old model owners, things are not the same as they used to be, the manual for #69 is a 1/4" thick floppy binder, B's unit might just be a sketch pad, if she even has the original. Luckily Reed, I think, had posted a PDF version online, I downloaded that.
I would recommend doing so, most systems will be similar enough to what your needs are, and being an educator I'm sure you'll be able to discern the differences. John, thanks for the reminder of the University, forgot those were there and downloadable.
To get all the air out of my water heater I open the relief valve on the outside and fill it until it runs out.
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Wow, I didn't realize that they would only get to 1.4A, no wonder you have all the issues. They should definitely offer both systems with different price points.
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Since they can’t tilt I wonder why Oliver doesn’t just use a regular bolt and lock nuts.
What do you mean they can't tilt? Mine tilt fine. Have they changed the mount configuration?
Disc brake porn, nsfw!
in Ollie Modifications
Posted
Disc brakes return better fuel mileage? Please elaborate on this.
I have been thinking about it, since Steve posted all his info and parts, I believe he said that the factory would install them if all was procured beforehand (although I could be wrong on this point)