tallmandan

Definitely. The two connecting bolts are stout and allow for more than a half inch unless you were to mount it in a panel. Then it would depend on mount and panel thickness. Here is a link to the one I used. The product photos show the measurments and a diagram of possible panel mounting...or not. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00558LSJE?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1 Mine does this as well when it detects just a bit of light but it's not enough to have any charge function. The buzzing sound on mine is a very faint kind-of hum. As soon as there is more light, it fully wakes-up and acts normal. I've never considered this to be a problem. If I'm wrong, someone please correct me.... I don't have any disconnect switch to isolate the solar panels. The only disconnect switch I'm aware of in my 2020 LEII is the one I installed at the batteries.

I think what @jd1923 meant with the word "fuse" was that the positive side is an always-on direct connection (not that there was a fuse breaker installed). I didn't install any new fuse device. My install was intended to be as simple as possible. The use of the kill-switch on the negative main accomplished two things for me - 1. allows me to cut all power and isolate the batteries and 2. my existing negative cable that went through the wall of the trailer to the inverter was too short to reach to the front battery negative connector because it was previously connected at the rear on my four AGM batteries. --- so using the switch allowed me to re-use a short cable as an extension to reach. It also allowed another negative connection point as Oliver wired my trailer with a bunch of wire leads all the way to the battery terminals rather than using a busbar. This avoided stacking all the wire terminals on one negative battery post. (The blue seas switch has large, long terminal bolts that accomodate) JD and others have cleaned up the wiring by installing busbars. I wasn't completely confident altering this and didn't really want to take the time to figure out, so I just re-attached all the wires in the battery bay. If your goal is simply to install a kill-switch. Installing it in the negative main line somewhere is probably what you need. Others here are much more savy at electrical than me, including JD, so they may have be able to give more specific direction... Hope that helps...

I ditched my Garmin GPS long ago. Don't forget that you can download large areas in Google Maps and use it offline if there is no cell coverage and this wouldn't use up your data if you are on a limited plan. I use this all the time here in Colorado where vast areas have no signal. Obviously, it can't include in-time things like traffic slowdowns or accident notification. I freakin' love my GM integrated trailer camera system on my 2021 Silverado! I purchased the camera unit for something like $350 I think. installed it at the top of the spare tire cover and ran the connecting wire easily under the trailer and the connector is right next to my 7-pin. It's not that I can't back a trailer without it but the piece of mind and absolute certainty of what's behind and how close is priceless. It works extremely well. zero lag and high resolution view right on my dashboard screen. It provides active guide-line overlay that moves with your steering rotation just like any modern car/truck back-up camera. In tricky, tight spaces or backing uphill, it's excellent.

Quick Update: I received a reply email from Barker Manufacturing and then spoke on the phone in response to my email to them that included photos. They are going to send me a new tube sleeve with the proper weld at no charge. I will need to take the existing jack out and loosen the three set screws on the head. I'm told this will allow me to replace the steel tube (where the bracket is welded) on the existing jack and then reinstall so that it will be at the proper height. Happy that a resolution/fix is now hopefully in process...

Hey, I'm late to see this but congrats @jd1923!! Wish you and Chirs all the happiness and good health! My wife Theresa and I are celebrating 36 years married this week! Hope your trip is going well and you will have to update me on where your travels took you in Colorado!

Not what I expected either. Here is the response I received: I responded to Mike with my dissapointment and asked for a contact at Barker if OTT was pushing it off on them. I was also confused by the ask of measuring -- all LEII trailers are the same and I'm asking for a correctly welded one. Mike responded already with a contact at Barker, I forwarded the OTT service email chain and the photos. Still hopefull for a reasonable resolution....

@Geronimo John Thanks for taking time to consider and draw out a possible fix. Appreciate your time! I'm impressed with your engineering skill as it's way above me! I'm neither an engineer or mechanic. I don't even own an angle grinder so trying to go this route would not exactly be in my comfort zone. I feel Oliver should send me a properly welded stabilizer that I can swap out, and that's what I've asked for. Today, I spoke with Mike Sharpe at OTT Service. He said that the action OTT takes is up to "manufacturing" and not his call to make. He agreed that he would like to send me a new one but had to wait for "manufacturing" to make a decision on my issue. I asked him if there was someone else I should speak with and he said no - that he was the contact. He went on to say that there is a meeting with "manufacturing" tomorrow where he will make sure my issue is discussed. We agreed that I will call him back on Thursday. I will update then... Much appreciation to this group, especially @Geronimo John and @jd1923, for your technical expertise and willingness to help.

I've never lifted the trailer with the jacks, never moved it with the foot loaded and always stacked 5 or 6 inches of 2x6 wood pieces under them to avoid full extension. Now, I did buy the trailer after the original buyer had used it for about 4 months, so I cant' speak to that period of time. However, the fact is that the bracket is welded incorrectly to the jack. I cant' see any evidence of stressed weld points or damage. If it were bent I would expect the operation to be effected in some way including, at least, a noticible difference in operational sound compared to the other jack that would indicate strain. Isn't it possible that the weld is off both vertically and horizontally ?

Thanks for your input and idea @jd1923. My trailer is out at the storage lot so I can't make a quick check....but I'm not sure I'm following you. The unit sits too high, not too low so adding a plate or washers would raise it....or am I missing something? I believe I recall that the bracket is a steel "L" bracket with two vertical and two horizontal bolts. I don't think I can alter it vertically and still have the horizontal bolts allign. I know you're much better with mechanical/engineering than me so if I'm not understanding and there is a "fix" other than replacemnet maybe you could let me know just how I could do it ? In the meantime, I plan to call Oliver next week and discuss my issue live. I think it's fair for a new unit to be sent to me and I will take care of the swap-install....that's what I am asking for......

Well....not yet. I was impressed that Mike Sharpe from Oliver Service sent me an email within hours of opening my service ticket. I sent him photos and then heard nothing back. Three weeks later I emailed him again and Mike responded that he had "sent this over to our manufacturing department to take a look into this." Then nothing for another 10 days and I emailed him again on Tuesday of this week. Mike responded with one sentence: "No response as of yet. I have reached back out to them." It's been over a month now.....so.....not too impressed anymore.... but hopeful that Oliver will make this right since it's clearly a manufacturing defect that should have been caught by both the supplier and Oliver installer. I've had to tape wood shims around the underside edge of the fiberglass lid to raise it and attempt to stop the damage. This is obviously not acceptable. If anyone has a suggestion on how to better communicate with Oliver Service, please let me know...?

Just a quick note about headroom from another tall guy. It sounds like you haven't yet been inside an Elite II so you may not be aware that the bathroom celing height is lower than the main cabin. The main cabin is 6'6in but I'd say the bathroom is 2 or 3 inches less. If someone here knows maybe you can correct me. Just wanted you to be aware. I don't know how tall you are but I'm 6'5" and I do have to crouch to take a shower. I shower quickly as we are usually boondocking without water hookups and I just deal with it. For that matter, the 75" bed is not quite long enough for my 77" body. I've removed the nightstand and have a few mods I've done to allow me to better stretch out when needed. Now, My main point is that I'm fine with it -- because of all the other points you mentioned! It's a fantastic trailer and I don't think there is anything else out there that can measure up. The feeling of it from inside is unlike any other RV I'v seen - so clean, bright, modern and you can just sense the solid quality from front to back and top to bottom. Congrats on your upcoming retirement!

Thanks @jd1923 and @topgun2 JD, really appreciate you taking the time to measure your stabilizer jacks for a comparison! I had previously noticed that it sat high and just touched the fiberglass but didn't really think much of it as it worked just fine. I never had both of the under-bed compartments open at the same time to really see the difference until yesterday and then took measurments (should have done that a long time ago!! -- just busy with life and the trailer has only had occasional use until now) The bracket welds are intact, all bolts are tight and the unit is steadfast and operational. It appears that the mounting bracket was improperly welded to the jack assembly - both in height and in level/plumb. The jack shaft is plumb from front to back but not from right to left. Mike from Oliver service responded via email to my service ticket within hours --- impressed! I've emailed him more photos showing the welds and I've included photos showing the positioning out of plumb using a level. Hopefully, Oliver will take care of me....

Thanks for your suggestions. As @jd1923 suggested, I checked the mounting bolts under the trailer and they looked tight visualy with lock-washers fully compressed. I put a wrench on them anyway and was able to tighten both bolts (on both sides) by about a quarter turn. This did not seem to change anything. Before pulling anyting apart, I started to measure differences between my curbside (too high) and my streetside (just fine) stabilizer jacks. I've attached the photos and I'm stumped. The curbside jack seems to be somehow mounted about an inch higher than the streetside jack. The inside photos are measuring to the mounting bracket. The outside photo shows that the cylinder for the shaft is an inch lower on one side. Is there some adjustment that I am not seeing? I believe that the curbside stabilizer jack was always touching the fiberglass lid but I never thought much of it. It seems to be doing damage to the lid now. Both jacks operate just fine as always. I am going to open a ticket with Oliver, but does anybody have a suggestion.....?

The manual crank post of my rear stabilizer jack is too high and comes in contact with the interior fiberglass cover under the curbside bed. It's causing damage to the underside (see photos). Anyone else have this problem? Is there a way to adjust the positon of the jack down to stop contact?

I just installed two Epoch 300aH Essential batteries in my LEII. @jd1923 let me know he ordered his from an authorized retailer called Renewable Outdoors and I did the same. They had the same price as the Epoch website and had very good communication and service. They simply process the order and the batteries are shipped direct from Epoch anyway. https://renewableoutdoors.com/products/epoch-batteries-12v-300ah-heated-bluetooth-lifepo4-battery-epoch-essentials So far, so good with mine. The batteries arrived in good shape in protective boxes at 55% SOC. They connected to the app easily. Agree that it's anoying to have to find them in the list of every bluetooth device in range but the app allows you to rename each battery so it's quicker to find them in the list. The app provides all the stats you could want. It's too soon to comment as I have yet to take a trip with them, but I'm excited to have 600aH and expect to have no power worries at all. As a side note, the list price as gone up by $200 to $1199 in the last few weeks. Not sure if this is related to the China tarif situation. It will be interesting to see what happens to lithium ion battery prices across all brands as 98% of all lithium batteries are made in China 😞