Tony and Rhonda

We were on shore power. AC worked with the remote, just didn't appear on the CPPlus. The AquaGo is visible and operates from the COPlus. The AC did appear on the CPPlus when we bought the trailer (used) and now doesn't.

@jd1923 That looks really good! Nice and clean. It's on my very long list of things to do on our Ollie. I'm deciding whether to put the drip rails on over the windows or along the roof edge. We're in Kentucky so slightly more rain than Arizona. Maybe both locations since the roof edge isn't very noticeable. Also deciding whether to install before or after we have it ceramic coated but your post has helped me decide. Thanks for the post! Tony

@FloraFauna Thanks for the manual. Looks like the one I have. Our Truma equipment was installed in 2023.

Out Truma CP plus 'sees' our AquaGo but doesn't see our Truma A/C. I've found other posts about resetting the CP using the procedure in the manual but I can't find the procedure in the manual we have. I think I remember reading it in another post but can't find it now. I'm not sure we have the complete CP manual so would someone please post a link to the CP manual which has this information or the post with the steps to reset the CP. Thanks, Tony

I'll add our two cents. We've had our new-to-us Ollie for 18 months or so and are still finding stuff we think we need. We moved from a truck camper to the Ollie and thought we had most of what we needed, but.... As @FirstApex mentioned, I suggest a LevelMate Pro (so you can power from the Ollie): https://www.amazon.com/LogicBlue-Technology-LevelMatePRO-Wireless-Leveling/dp/B01FGGSWPW/ TPMS system to monitor the tires (you'll need metal valve stems): https://www.amazon.com/TST-507-FT-4-C-Repeater-Temperature-Monitoring-System/dp/B08W3QZ499/ Induction countertop cooktop and induction compatible cookware for inside and outside and many people have grills (Blackstone, Weber, etc.). We have a Paclock hitch lock (similar to the Proven) and a Collar lock to secure the latch (if you have the Bulldog coupler). https://www.amazon.com/PACLOCKs-UCS-77S-BUL-2516-Trailer-Coupler-Integrated-Stainless-Steel/dp/B0DLLQPB15/ or https://www.amazon.com/Proven-Industries-2516-Heavy-Duty-Couplers/dp/B0G319Y11G/ https://www.amazon.com/Collar-Trailer-Bulldog-style-Couplers-Including/dp/B00HL2NM0K/ You'll want an Electrical Management System (EMS) for the campground power post (in addition to the onboard EMS), a 30 AMP circuit tester and a non-contact voltage detector and outlet tester. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01N0W4CZ8/ https://www.amazon.com/Progressive-Industries-Receptacle-Tester-Black/dp/B088CWBBBM/ https://www.amazon.com/Klein-Tools-80025-Non-Contact-Voltage/dp/B0912Z1W88/ Don't know what hitch size the Apex comes with but I'd ask for the 2 5/16" coupler. There's lots of info on the forums. I suggest using @Wayfinder's search tool found on this post:

We decided to wash the cushion covers. Unfortunately there are no care instructions in any of the covers we've checked. Oliver didn't have any guidance either. We started machine washing our cushion upholstery covers. Washing in a front loader on delicate/cold with second rinse. Adding regular laundry detergent and oxiclean. The upholstery fabric is synthetic and comes out of the washer almost dry. A few hours in the sun (air drying) finishes them. We also turn them inside out at some point to make sure they dry completely. We would not attempt machine drying. The washed cushion covers look the same (no discoloration) as before washing but they smell better. Not sure if the upholstery had some type of stain treatment but the washed covers feel better too. The edge piping also had a little fraying after washing but we clipped or melted the frays. (Nylon or polyester fabric so you have to be very careful if you try to melt the frays.) Freshly washed on left with a pile of removed frays at bottom. Piping fray after washing, before repair. The most difficult part is removing and reinstalling the foam from the covers. The covers are a very tight fit and the zipper opening is smaller still. The smaller the cushion, the more difficult. We have a standard bed and the small cushions used in the corners were a challenge. Strong hands are useful. We found when removing the covers, our foam had stuck to the seams of the covers in some places. Not sure why this happens. We found it's best to run my hand along the fabric seams to separate the foam from the fabric. There are also a lot of fabric strings on the inside of the cover from the fraying seal allowance so we have to be careful not to pull on those when removing the foam. After drying, we cut off a lot the frayed fabric strings to make it easier to reinstall the foam. Getting the foam past the zipper can be difficult. We found that squeezing the corner of the foam with one hand and pulling the fabric end over the foam worked best for us. Strong hands are very helpful here. Once the foam is inside to cover we had to stick an arm between the cover and the foam to help position the foam, especially in the corners. We're working through the cushions a washer load at a time. The covers take up a lot of space in the washer when dry but not nearly as much when we so we started with four small covers by themselves and we're working up the number and size of the covers we wash at one time. We also plan each wash so there's no confusion on which cover goes on which block of foam.

I believe late registration may be available, it just costs more. Contact Oliver: 1-888-526-3978.

Hi @jd1923, Our fabric is in generally good shape, no stains and not fuzzy (on the outside at least) but as far as we know they've never been cleaned. They also have an odd feel to the fabric so we'd like to clean them.

I've searched the forums with @Wayfinder's great search tool/page and only found one hit on cleaning the fabric/upholstery in the Oliver (from John Davies). He machine washed his fabric. We have the brown woven fabric in our 2017. Does anyone have any advice for cleaning the fabric? Thanks in advance. Tony

The deadbolt is standard equipment from the manufacturer.

I believe the 4WC door was about the same thickness as the Ollie door. Different companies, different approaches, but it is possible.

Our Oliver had the RVLock installed when we purchased it (used). In the 24 or so months we've owned it, I've had to call RVLock three time with issues. First time was when the lock just stopped working. Not too big a deal since we could still lock/unlock the door with the key. They sent replacement parts and I installed. Second time was after we closed the camper door and the key lock (not deadbolt) locked us out of the camper. Of course the keys were inside the camper. Luckily we were at the storage yard where we keep the camper so we just drove home to get the spare set. Inconvenient but not catastrophic. RVLock sent a replacement paddle with lock that I have yet to install. Third time was after the lockout above. I ordered a spare set of two keys with the replacement paddle and RVLock only sent one key. Called them and they sent out another set of two keys at no charge. Now have three spares and never leave the camper without a set in my pocket. Since we are not the original purchasers of the lock, we've had to pay for the replacement parts and shipping. I've thought the costs were very reasonable and RVLock customer service has been very helpful and easy to work with. I'm not sure I would replace a manual door lock with the RVLock but it's installed so we'll use it until/unless it becomes too much trouble. I would prefer the locks like were on our Four Wheel Camper. It had a standard RV style paddle lock and a home style deadbolt. Much more robust than the RV style locks. @jd1923 Have you considered having your white powder coated door lock re-powder coated in gray? You'd have to disassemble it for powder coating but it would be gray.

For those who have been there, how are the bugs in May? We're planning to attend the MOO 2 rally in Duluth mid-May. Thanks, Tony

I've used the personal Thermocells for several years without any issues but they are (probably) first generation models purchased when they first hit the market. Pre-quality fade? They still work after 12-13 years. I've also found Picaridin bug spray to work on repelling mosquitos. Perhaps not as effective as DEET but Picaridin doesn't dissolve your watch band, phone case or camera like DEET will. I also don't taste picaridin after application like I do DEET. Don't know how well it works on deer flies but it does OK with black flies.

I sympathize, I had a deer fly take a chunk out of my forehead 50 years ago and I still remember the pain. Any place in the campground (away from your Ollie) you could set up a fan and a blue tarp covered with the sticky stuff? A deer fly version of the mosquito zappers!. For Mosquitos, I've had good luck with Thermocells. Good luck!