John Welte
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Posts posted by John Welte
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35 minutes ago, Geronimo John said:
Vic:
From an Engineer's perspective, the ultra long moment arm of the assembly loaded with two heavy E-Bikes gives me concern for even good highway use. However, with the G-Forces induced by rough roads, and worse if taken off-road, my concern rises to grave.
Under such conditions, be advised that:
- Due to the moment arm length and heavy load, that it would be prudent to counter balanced (by additional front of trailer loads) to somewhat restore your Ollie's great antisway characteristics somewhat.
- There is a significant potential for your added hitch, and/or the OTT components supporting it to unexpectently fail.
I highly recommend your shortening the moment arm to a minimum and reduce the load if possible. As pictured this design IMHO is an accident looking and waiting for the worst possible opportunity to fail.
GJ
I am not an engineer, but your comments make perfect sense and it would seem that it's not a good idea. We had a bike rack fail. Lucky for us it was 1/4 mile from home after a 4000+ mile trip. We were going slow so no damage to cars behind us. I want an over engineered rack and want to error on the side of caution.
John
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2 hours ago, Patriot said:
You won’t need adhesive, this trim grips extremely well. No issues with it coming loose at all.
How many linear feet did you use for the beds, dog house and spare tire cover? I am guessing something like 30 feet. Thanks.
John
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3 hours ago, Mike and Carol said:
We camped once when night time temperatures were mid-teens and daytime temps were high 20s. That was for about 5 days. No issues with water lines freezing. We’re not big fans of that type of cold and avoid it if possible.
The last time I had my basement partitions out I could see the water lines laying against the hull as they ran around the back of the trailer. It would be easy enough to either wrap those with insulation or lay some thick insulation down under the water lines. The back of the trailer seems like it is the most vulnerable area for the water lines. The lines under the bed seem more protected but should get some more insulation too. For the few times we’re in weather below 20 that might be enough.
Thanks to our cold weather campers for their experience. Mike
Mike, I read all the comments above in the thread. My understanding of PEX lines are that they can expand quite a bit without breaking. 3 times their size if I recall. Water expands something like 9%, a figure that wouldn't present a problem for the PEX lines. One source I read said that the temperature needed to freeze water in a PEX line that isn't insulated is 20°f. Two problems that I see happening in freezing temperatures are the inability to have water at the faucet due to the water now being frozen in the PEX lines and possible breaking at the non PEX junctions. Maybe if they use PVC fittings which I think are used, that wouldn't be able to expand like the PEX and they would fail. I would think that the water in the small PVC fittings would expand out into the PEX line laterally instead of pushing against the walls of the PVC fitting, in other words, the path of least resistance. I can't see myself camping in sub freezing temperatures, but a brief period of sub freezing temperatures might happen while pulling the trailer through mountains, for instance. Maybe for most of us, we don't have to worry about freezing lines. I winterized the trailer and will take it out when it's safely above freezing. Am I being overly confident in the ability of the trailer to withstand a little cold?
John
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12 hours ago, Steve Morris said:
We have a Camco Big Red Firepit, which has a combination regulator/valve inline at the tank. I know that I can't use this with the Oliver's low pressure quick connect fittings, as I'd have two regulators inline with each other. I know some other fire pits have their regulator on the tank end of the hose and the vale on the firepit itself, so replacing the hose works in that case. Not on mine, though. Does anyone else have a propane appliance with the combo regulator valve? And if so, how did you work around this? I haven't found a hose with the valve only inline that I could substitute.
Thanks!
https://www.camco.net/big-red-campfire-olympian-58035
Steve, I was directed to Torjik company for any hoses I might need. They might be able to help you.
John
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3 hours ago, Rivernerd said:
You have precisely described the leak we found in our Hull #1291 the day after delivery. When we took it back to Oliver, they also sealed the roof penetrations, which seems to have solved the leak issue.
I wonder if Oliver has yet figured out that all screws that penetrate the roof must be sealed during manufacturing to avoid leaks from the Truma AC unit?
There are six screws that hold the Truma AC cover that don't have any rubber washer or sealant. The screws sit in a small cup indentation about an inch across so any water on the roof will leak inside. That's the first area leakage. Seems crazy not to have some rubber washer under the screw head. The MaxxAir screws weren't sealed either. It's still in the shop waiting for Oliver to give guidance on how it should be remedied. Frustrated that a new trailer first had the gas leak, then this water leak. Hope to have it fixed before 2024.
John
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1 hour ago, RustyMD said:
I had a water leak from my Truma AC in LE II #1304. It was right after our pick-up of our new trailer. It rained hard in TN at that time. We took it back to Oliver and they waterproofed the screws of the Maxxair fan and it fixed the problem. Water was running from the Maxxair between the hulls and to the Truma and drip, drip in the trailer.
#1290 is still in the shop. It was in the RV dealership lot for about a month, so moving into the shop area is progress. They will look at the MaxxAir too, in addition to the Truma AC, to hopefully move this trailer into usable condition instead of a decorative yard display. They plan to remove the AC and try to figure out where the water was coming from.
John
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2 minutes ago, Rivernerd said:
rich.dev:
FYI, you should not need the longer screws. Your 2023 Elite II scheduled for delivery in mid-May will have the longer screws already installed. The short screws were only used for the first few Truma AC units installed back in 2022.
I wonder when they noticed the need for the longer screws. It looks like at least #1290 and #1291 got the shorter ones. We hadn't noticed any leak until the half foot of snow melted. We have had plenty of rainy days with no problems. Is your trailer under cover in Idaho?
John
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3 minutes ago, Rivernerd said:
They are 5mmx120mm T30 flathead wood screws. Photo below shows the bag they come in.
Next photo shows the length in inches.
A Google search so far has revealed no sources for 5mmx120mm wood screws. But, the approximate size in Imperial screws is #10x5". Those are readily available in the USA.
I figure if I have to address a leak around my Truma AC unit, I will buy some #10x5" screws and carefully try them.
I do wish that Truma would not be so compulsive about providing repair parts only to authorized service centers. I believe I am more capable, and careful, than most "knuckle draggers" employed by RV service centers these days, particularly in consultation with the excellent Oliver service team...
How are these screws used? I can see a bolt and nut being used, but there's no wood in the trailer except in the drawers.
John
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1 hour ago, rich.dev said:
Did Oliver email you the info, if yes can you share it with us?
Oliver was made aware of the leak on Friday, so hopefully they're working on a solution. The service center sent 10 pictures to OTT after they removed the inner A/C cover. I also created a service ticket, which may be redundant as it's still in the shop after they fixed the gas leak to the Truma heater and OTT was made aware of it when someone was checking the gas leak and saw the water.
John
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Hi all, we have #1290 and as far as I know, our hull was the first to get the Truma A/C. We picked up on November 7. No leaking until last week. We live in Oregon so we have had rain since pick up. We had about 6-7 inches of snow last week. It's at the RV service center as I had a propane leak on the Truma heater. After the snow melted, the service center went inside to check the propane leak and discovered about a pint to a quart of water that had leaked onto the floor. None on the mattresses. OTT is working on it. The service center said there wasn't a foam seal between the roof and the A/C unit. If you have a Truma A/C, you might want to check your trailer. Hopefully an easy fix. Our camping trip this week won't happen.
John
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20 hours ago, Steve Morris said:
Thanks, Rich! Our new Oliver will be our first travel trailer with electric, plumbing, or gas. Maintenance on the square drop is pretty basic! Plus, this will be 12 feet longer than what I have now.
We have two nights booked at Camp Oliver and two at David Crockett State Park before leaving the area. Good to know that there is a dump station at Oliver. I had visions of me trying to learn Sunday morning at DCSP with everyone in the campground lined up waiting on me!! 😬"Thanks, Rich! Our new Oliver will be our first travel trailer with electric, plumbing, or gas. Maintenance on the square drop is pretty basic! Plus, this will be 12 feet longer than what I have now."
You'll be pleasantly surprised at how much easier it will be to back up because it's longer. Shorter trailers are harder.
John
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31 minutes ago, topgun2 said:
THAT Oliver is going to look great in THAT Ollie house - especially with THAT pup keeping an eye on it.
Welcome to the Family!
BIll
That pup is looking forward to the new adventures!
John
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Welcome to the Oliver family!
John
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8 hours ago, Geronimo John said:
Any theft deterrent that we can employ, short of standing outside our Ollie's with a shot gun, can be defeated. As in the military, the best defense has multiple layers to slow down or degrade the attacker. I also submit that our security devices should minimize storage and weight for travel. Here are my suggested layers of defense:
Layer 1. For long term (Not Occupied), I start my security prep by lowering the trailer tongue. Simple. Free. No added weight.
Layer 2: For this layer I use two items suggested by John D years ago: Unlike the Proven Ind. cover, they easily fit into a kitchen drawer and weigh a lot less than ten pounds. They are a deterrent that some bad guys will walk away. I cover them with large coffee can or a bucket for both weather protection, and also so that passers by can't see what I have in store for them. Most do not bring the power tools required to defeat these devices.
For those really serious thieves that do have the power tools please proceed to Layer 6.
For those less prepared thieves that do not have the power tools, please proceed to Layer 3.
Layer 3. After they get through chewing their way through Layer 2, they then will likely try to dead lift our 640 pound tongue weight. However their sore backs quickly veto that approach. They have a eureka moment when they see the front jack. They eagerly remove the cover and activate the jack to raise the bulldog onto their hitch. But the jack does not work because I removed the fuse. They cut the wires and splice them around the fuse. But drats that does not work either because my DC Master Switch is in the OFF position. So sorry guys. More time burned.
Layer 4: Now they are really getting nervous as their 60 seconds and gone plan is out the window. But determined they are and they fetch their vehicle scissors jack that is buried in their TV. But to use it near the tongue, that you will recall is near the ground, requires them to excavate a small trench. They waste time figuring out that they can move the jack aft and try to raise it from there. But that typically means that the jack will not extend high enough to get the bulldog over their super duty truck hitch. Sorry for your back injuries from trying to power lifting our 640 pound tongue weight. More time wasted.
Layer 5: In their haste, they had failed to notice that I also have a security lock on the Bulldog. More time wasted to saw off that lock. At this point the dumb ones give up on my Ollie and go to yours.
But the Professional thieves have a different path entirely. Instead of taking the time to attack hardened steel, they bypass them entirely.
They back up their truck to the bulldog, grab our safety chains/cables and wrap them tightly around their hitch and run them through two carabiners.
Fasten them and hall ass. Truly 60 seconds and gone.
Layer 6: But wait, you took a few seconds to bolt and double nut your safety cables/chains to together up under the fiberglass propane tank cover. Now they have to go fetch real tools to unbolt or cut your grade 8 steel bolt. More time wasted.
Layer 7: Your last straw of hope in getting your trailer back is that tracker you placed over Ollie. Why here? Because no double bubble and better reception overhead.
The above are the best seven of my 12 "Home Alone" fun things to mess with thieves. But if you want to explore others consider: Exploding dye packs, trip wires to screamers, and my all time favorite is an electric fence transformer grounded and attached to the frame of Ollie. 🙂
GJ
PS: My favorite fun movie is the Christmas Special "Home Alone". I liked the original one the best.
Layer 7: Your last straw of hope in getting your trailer back is that tracker you placed over Ollie. Why here? Because no double bubble and better reception overhead.
What tracker do you use and how is it attached or hidden? That's a Fort Knox approach to keeping your Ollie. Thanks. I use the Proven Ind. Lock and their puck lock when it's outside by our garage. Thinking of security cameras next. You'd be surprised at the number of boats and trailers secured with only a cheap Masterlock that I see when walking in the neighborhood.
John
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2 hours ago, shhQuiet said:
I agree with you- I opted for the Truma AC and water heater 👍
You also get the Truma Varioheat heater in that Truma package. That's a nice furnace that has variable furnace fan settings. With our old furnace it was either full on or off until the thermostat turned it to heat again. The Truma just turns the fan speed down and keeps the trailer at a constant heat.
John
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Hi Steve and welcome to the forum. I am sorry about the loss of your wife. We're newbies to Oliver, having just picked up in November. Congrats on your order of an LE2 due in June. Great time to pick up. I retired at 64 and highly recommend it. The forum members are a great source of information. There's a rally in Alabama every May and lots of information at Oliver University and videos. Time flies. It will be delivery day soon enough. Can you retire in June instead?
John
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49 minutes ago, snakeriveridaho said:
Congratulation on the recovery of your Oliver!
We have this hitch lock. I believe several owners on the forum have purchased this type of lock.
Good luck!
Kirk
I have the same lock and also use a collar lock while towing.
John
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15 minutes ago, John E Davies said:
I just looked at my brackets, Hull 218 has black painted steel ones and they look fine. Then I pretty much hid them.
John Davies
Spokane WA
Nice labeling John!
John
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29 minutes ago, G. Patterson said:
Can someone share what high quality water proof storage container they are using that fits in the basket? I am looking to basically fill up the full footprint of the basket and would like it to be at least 20" high.
Thanks,
GRP
The Costco black with yellow top storage bin fits in the basket. Because of the shape of the basket there's a little gap in the front. It seems water tight, but I just put chocks, jack stands and things in there that don't require absolute water tightness. That's not answering your question, but my two cents worth.
John
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3 hours ago, topgun2 said:
That's one way to keep burglars away.
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4 minutes ago, Donna and Jim Y. said:
The battery blanket switch is on and it did get into the low 20's at night the past two days....so maybe it is just that blanket pulling down the batteries. Once it is above freezing or 41f should I turn off the switch then or let the thermostat turn it off?
I would just leave the battery warmer switch on for a while until you're out of the cold temperatures. It won't come on unless it's cold. Can you just keep plugged into shore power?
John
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3 hours ago, Rivernerd said:
Which lithium batteries do you have? Lithionics installed by Oliver?
If so, see this Storage Procedure published by Lithionics:
Lithionics Storage Procedure Rev.7-1.pdf 143.35 kB · 3 downloads
If you have the Lithium Platinum Package, this procedure applies directly to you.
If you have the Lithium Pro Package, Oliver installed an external heating pad under the batteries, controlled by a red switch on top of the 3-battery bank. You can connect shore power, leave the red switch "on," and walk away for up to 3 months. The external heater will keep the batteries charged and protected from below-freezing temps, using 12V battery power. The batteries are recharged over that time by the Xantrex Inverter/Charger using shore power.
After 3 months, Lithionics recommends discharging, then recharging the batteries, as described in the Long Term Storage paragraph of that Storage Procedure document. Then the batteries are o.k. for another 3 months.
"After 3 months, Lithionics recommends discharging, then recharging the batteries, as described in the Long Term Storage paragraph of that Storage Procedure document. Then the batteries are o.k. for another 3 months."
We both have the same battery package. As I understand it, as long as I am connected to my 30 amp outlet, there's no need to do anything. I have the battery warmer switch turned on and solar switch on also. The first paragraph of the Lithionics directions says that "doing this will eliminate the procedures below". Those procedures are the ones that says what to do for short term and long term storage and discharging and bringing it back up to 100% SOC.
John
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4 hours ago, Trainman said:
Wow, wood decks, not concrete, or dirt.
trainman
But look how close they all are to each other!
John
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22 hours ago, Dave and Kimberly said:
I have just investigated this very point: Can we file for a tax credit in regards to the solar panels, inverter and batteries for a newly purchased Oliver. I was extremely skeptical of the claims (in Oliver Trailer Owners FaceBook group). In the discussion, I think everyone was an Oliver owner. One was a licensed CPA with much experience and had researched the tax codes specific to the very questions that Oliver owners were asking. In addition, there were at least three that had successfully filed (under the advice of professional CPA's) and received their credit for everything (Panels, inverter and batteries) in 2020 and 2021.
I (like some of you) found in the code where the batteries could be included only if they were used exclusively to store solar energy. This was the sticking point of the persons like me that felt it might not be possible, because we can also plug into shore power and charge our batteries. The Tax code is always lagging behind new technology and the common sense fact that no solar panel system can work without having a storage system as part of it. Beginning 1/1/2023 the batteries were clarified and can now be included. Tax code is written and when there are conflicts, CPA's and lawyers will argue and then precedent is established as courts make findings. There was much ambiguity from 2020, 2021,2022.
There was (in the discussions) numerous persons confirmed that their CPA's were advising Oliver Owners to claim everything (panels, inverter and batteries), and the several that have successfully done so and received their tax credits. In addition, the IRS rules have already clarified this "sticking" point going forward in 2023. In all these discussions there were a least a couple that were going to file their personal taxes this weekend (using their trusted CPA) and I hope to hear back from them if there is any new info that comes out of it. Another point that came out of the discussions is that there is no concern with claiming an Oliver as a "2nd home".
Prior years the credit was 26%, in 2022 it is 30% and I think 2023 goes back to 26% also. With a brand new Oliver, where the cost for the solar panels, the inverter and the batteries is very easy to itemize (because Oliver spells it out on your invoice)... capturing the total cost is easy. In our case it is $9,500 for the Lithium Pro package... and the sales tax of 7.25% my total cost was $10,189 times a 30% tax credit should equal $3,058. The form that needs to be filled out is Tax Form 5695 (Residential Energy Credit). I'm going to file an amended tax return (using that form) and the very worse that could happen is it could be refused... but based on common sense (it's still makes a good argument) and with enough persons that have already successfully done so, I don't think our tax credit will be denied.
"I'm going to file an amended tax return (using that form) and the very worse that could happen is it could be refused... but based on common sense (it's still makes a good argument) and with enough persons that have already successfully done so, I don't think our tax credit will be denied."
Thanks Dave or Kimberly for your post. It makes sense to me that the whole amount could be used for the basis of claiming the 30%. The point about whether or not it would be excluded because the batteries CAN be charged via shore power and the converter shouldn't matter. What about people that only boondock and never plug in? I plan to claim the whole amount also. If the IRS says no, then I could appeal. Nothing to lose if I try, but if I don't, then I could be giving them $3000+ that they shouldn't have.
John
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Does Oliver have a 2” ALUMINUM receiver that can replace the 1.25 receiver for a 2” bicycle rack, on my 2022 Elite II?
in Delivery Day Photos
Posted
"Sorry to hear about your bike rack failure what brand bike rack was it?"
Patriot, it was a hitch bike rack between our tent trailer and our tv. It was made in Portland, Oregon. The failure happened because they forgot to finish welding the rack! It had 1/2 welds and 1/2 tack welds if I remember right. Never having seen how it was supposed to look like, I trusted it was done right. I was just lucky that it failed so close to home and not at freeway speeds. Thanks for the info on the rack. I have the Oliver bike mount but haven't bought the rack yet.
John