DunnYet

Yep - me again. Reset 2.0 / Hull 1365 2023 LE II. We are week into a two week loop, and I seem to be finding all the weird noises in the trailer. This one is the furnace. Rebecca describes it as "someone bouncing a basketball." When the heater first comes on - regardless of just being turned on or cycling based on the temp, there is a metalic flapping sound that repeats for a minute to two minutes under the curb side bed. It sounds like something flapping up and down to me, Rebecca is sticking with her basketball metaphor. It does not happen everytime, but I can't establish any type of pattern so far. Sometimes it happens as the furnace starts, just now it make two thumps as the furnace shut down. Any thoughts or suggestions on what to check welcome. It's a maintenance / laundry day tomorrow, so good time to look at it.

Started calling at 7:30 this morning. Made three calls before I realized that in the real world it's Saturday.🤦‍♂️ Will try again on Monday.

Test completed. All wheels turned silently, except the curb rear wheel. On that wheel forward rotation is silent, rear rotation (as in backing up the trailer) generates a dragging squeaking noise from the wheel. Performed this test on all four wheels, including the curb rear indicated above. No movement, and I gave it my best linebacker effort. Did not perform this test given that I had isolated it in the first test. @jd1923 based on my understanding of your troubleshooting matrix, this is pointing towards bearings. I did get a photo of the label on the rear axle and included it below. (I also took a shot of the bulldog shock attachments while I was down there. Thoughts? It looks like they were reinstalled a bit tighter than I had them originally. May pull and replace with new rubber bumpers when we get home. Given that we are second owners on Hull 1364, should I contact Dexter or Oliver about the potential warranty claim? Or am I out of luck on the axle waranty?

Would be pure speculation. When we sold our previous LE I, the new owner got spreadsheets and the handwritten logbook that's like an airplane's log. We didn't receive anything like that, just some vague contradictory statements about how little the trailer had traveled and the distant places that they had visited. Based on several other items (shocks, refrigerator, plumbing) I have my opinions and speculations. I have tried to go through (with the help of the smart people on this forum) each system and bring it up to better than specs. Bulldog shocks, new refregerator, etc. I also try to give back with designs for installing the GasStop units on an LE I and will eventually get around to posting my refrigerator fan design that has a temp sensor to run the exhaust fans when needed. The reason we purchased an Oliver is the community, the bunch of experienced travelers and engineers that will see a panic message on a Saturday afternoon and start throwing out helpful and thougtful troubleshooting tips. Besides the incredible engineering and reliability of our trailers, it's the community that sets our Oliver apart from the Grand Design sitting across from us and the Apex next door. Wow - this response got off topic. Road brain, or possibly the wide open spaces of Wyoming out the window.

Reset 2.0 (Hull 1364) just spent its first night (with us) in Utah. The Flaming Gorge area is absolutely beautiful. This trips pass list so far includes: Raton Pass (NM) 7,834 ft Monarch Pass (CO) 11,312 ft Douglas Pass (CO) 8,205 ft

Reset 2.0 (Hull 1364 ‘23) has new Alcan springs! Even though I got mixed up on the drop off time and was late, the team at Alcan did a great job. Had an incredible breakfast at the Dream Cafe per several suggestions in this thread, then Rebecca and I went up through the Colorado National Monument with Reset 2.0 safely in the hands the Alcan team. Can’t imagine going over that Rim Road with the Ollie 😀 Adding to my list of “designations I never wanted to achieve,” they told me my springs were among the worst they had seen. Bushings completely shot and in terrible shape. That’s the joy of purchasing a used Ollie. At least we have solid records from the day we purchased forward. Now doing the enforced rest breaks under the trailer, a.k.a tightening the shackles and u-bolts.

Thanks for the detailed options. @jd1923 - Please rest assured - that was a “before” photo from my “replace the completely trashed factory shocks with bulldog shocks.” I should have cropped that out - I was just trying to get a reference for the axle type and that was the best photo I had in my library of the hub. Will put in some better photos this morning. I was so focused on getting a good clear hub shot that I didn’t see the “gorilla” in the background. Will report back on findings. Am also going to call the folks at Alcan for their thoughts. I just wanted to get the thoughts out of my head and into the forum brain before going to sleep last night.

Reset 2.0 (2023 Hull 1364 LE II) with Dexter Neverlube factory axles. We are on the road leaving Grand Junction with brand new Alcan springs and headed up into Utah and Wyoming. Yesterday after picking up and today backing into a site in Utah I noticed a slight squeak when backing up. (1) Should I be worried? (2) What should I look for while I am doing under trailer yoga tightening the u-bolts etc. Per the yellow sheet I tightened the bolts to proper torque at 12, 75 and will do in the morning before we hit the road. Also wheel lugs to 100 ft lbs based on the forum information. Brake test on leaving the park this morning worked fine, seemed to be more powerful so I reduced brake gain to 5 from normal 7. Attached a photo of the axle hub for reference - what should I be looking for? Let me make this clear - I don’t think that this is something from the spring install, but need to know what to look at. I don’t want to kill the brakes on the way back to Texas through ignorance.

Thanks very much @Patriot for this. It makes me wonder - I generally leave the “heater” filter in all the time regardless of season. Should I pull it for the “off season” and only put it in during the cold camping months? I only switch to the standard filter when running the decalcification cycle. Am I doing this wrong?

our original LE I (Hull 1030) was Reset, the current LE II (Hull 1364) is Reset 2.0

Sounds like Oliver was ahead of the curve again!

From a newsletter I received ... "The 2026 Edition of the National Electric Code (NEC) is now published, which finalizes the grounding monitor interrupters requirement. All RVs with 30A or 50A electrical service will be required to install a Grounding Monitor Interrupter (GMI), which is a loss-of-ground device. Before electrical current can pass into the RV, a GMI will check the receptacle for a proper ground connection. During use, the GMI will also monitor the ground connection to the RV and, if lost, will disconnect the power to the RV." Full article at https://www.rvia.org/news-insights/grounding-monitor-interrupters-rvs-and-their-impact-rv-parks-and-campgrounds?utm_source=Iterable&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=campaign_15242097&campaignSource=RVLIFE I have never heard of this before - is this something that I already have and just don't know it? Does my Watchdog handle this? Does the built in EPO? Inquiring minds want to know 🙂 so I was going to check here and see if anyone else is familiar with this or if I'm just late to the party.

It’s simple math. Sell and Oliver, you have a happy customer but their trailer is going to last a lifetime, need minimal service, and provide them a wonderful experience. Sell them a Stick Built, you are going to see them in the service department every three to four months with an expensive slide out issue, leak, electrical failure, or suspension collapse. And in no more than five years you are going to sell them another one. Bonus, you will finance each of these and get the lift on that. We were talking to a couple with a Grand Design at a park a couple of months ago who had been camping 20 years and had gone through 10 trailers. What dealer does not want to have people like that as “customers for life.” (We met them when they stopped to look in our Oliver - they were looking to downsize from their 5th wheel and had heard all the good things about Olivers 😀)

Not going to be one of those people who never closes out the thread… My adult supervision found out that the Dometic was not going to be available any time soon. (She really wants a working fridge.) She also had concerns about a situation where I was going to be in proximity to Hull 1364 wielding a jigsaw or an oscillating tool. (And I don’t even have an oscillating tool, so now I’ve lost my (current) excuse to get one.) So - after all my pledging to never own another Isotherm, I am now the proud owner of a new isotherm with a damaged in shipping door. At least they are going to replace that. Hopefully the information in this thread will be helpful to others. Watch for a new thread asking the smarter than me people on this forum questions about how to make my new Isotherm (which because of supply chain issues is 12v only) operate on shore power. 🙂

We have the LE II '23 so it has the fold up table and the vent at the top of the refrigerator compartment. The diagram for the Dometic in an RV install says airflow under and exhaust out the sidewall at the top or back into the cabin. I think we will go external since we have the existing vent. (B in the image below.) So I need to make sure I have some type of support for the unit that will allow (an unspecified) amount of airflow.