Rivernerd

Time to replace both tanks, and as Geronomo John recommends, the regulator as well.

Short answer: leave them connected to shore power, as the Lithium Platinum Package Lithionics batteries have internal heaters that protect them from freezing so long as they have sufficient power supply. BUT, disconnect shore power once every 3 months (when ambient temps are above freezing) and turn on appliances, lights etc. to run the batteries down to 30%. Then plug shore power back in, which will recharge the battery bank back to 100% and keep it there. That is what we do with our Lithium Pro Package Lithionics battery bank in much colder winter temps in central Idaho. The only difference is our batteries have an external heating pad installed by Oliver with a separate switch mounted on top of the battery bank, as they do not include internal heaters like yours do.

I second Ronbrink's endorsement of the LockNLube coupler for your grease gun. I must grease lots of zerks on my Kubota tractor, so have become a LockNLube coupler fan. I also recommend LockNLube's zerk caps. They have worked well on my tractor to keep dirt out of the zerks, so I have also installed them on the zerks on my Elite II. They are overpriced at $11 for what they are, but they work. I have no financial interest in LockNLube, just positive experience with these two products. https://www.amazon.com/LockNLube-Grease-Fitting-Count-Yellow/dp/B0779K66DW/ref=sr_1_1_pp?dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.T8hZ8VHh7n8q0Y30ncw1Zvsvok5f6vxLfm-VFmTE4o9O5jCMC0xZl_8Qis_WTuJx0T23YcDDPnRHvDiYoH8C9l0hDEQcd_u_ciE36NWaysFxgMqQa5lvjJjPQz52Q-v0amx0f3bbIlAln7jMclOsI57EAMXdty7ZBK_jpW4S_BMU5glY7lQwHlt_P-Ro-gGdnON8stpS6I21R2IHz41-VJZuRFrkf2HY_L1p9vYcEeb2wYpNkXEUEJTXPlcQi1UG-GK4sqUYFBtfzKmV24VB4I2On4pTDUB94-w1_dl6aEQ.jnjsiornpd_gBb-D-BGini1OeYpO1kK6xBhHgEc6HcE&dib_tag=se&hvadid=695444684338&hvdev=c&hvexpln=67&hvlocphy=9029558&hvnetw=g&hvocijid=17929369996106615123--&hvqmt=e&hvrand=17929369996106615123&hvtargid=kwd-488087789682&hydadcr=7441_13183977&keywords=lock%2Bn%2Blube%2Bgrease%2Bfitting%2Bcaps&mcid=bf8e3ce829e9318caf67405886b6af15&qid=1761057611&sr=8-1&th=1

I expect you can carefully adjust the cables to create enough slack to enable the TV to hang vertically. My cables do not restrict the TV from dropping to vertical, but it still hangs on the bracket several degrees out of plumb. I cut a length of smooth 1x2 lumber to serve as a prop to hold the screen vertical. I store the prop in the attic above the TV.

It seems to me this is another advantage for fiberglass trailers, like our Olivers vs. aluminum, like Airstream. Although the aluminum chassis in an Oliver is a good conductor, the fiberglass "skin" is not. Does anyone know if 30A receptacle testers presently on the market will detect bonded neutral and ground connectors at an RV pedestal? If not, I expect the code change will prompt market introduction soon.

"What is Oliver installing in new trailers?" Our Hull #1291 (2022) Elite II has an RV Safe Co and Propane Alarm. See photo. It appears to be smaller than your Atwood, and installed differently.

The rigid "foam" board is what we have in our Hull #1291 manufactured in October, 2022. It may not be apparent in the photo below, but our mounting board is not solid PVC. It has a "foamlike" feel to it, especially on the edge. It feels to me like it is a cross between solid PVC board and foam insulation board. That said, we have had no issues with screws loosening from that board, but we avoid driving on bad roads with our Oliver. I second Mossemi's "one size up" and Geronimo John's silicone adhesive recommendations. A "little dab'l do ya" on the screw threads.

Our Tireminder TPMS system has worked well on our Elite II for the past 2+ years. I mounted the booster under the rear dinette seat, with a "hard wire" connection to an unused slot in the 12V fuse panel, which is within inches of the mounting location. https://www.amazon.com/Minder-Research-TM22141-TireMinder-Transmitters/dp/B082QJ7H1R/ref=sr_1_1?crid=1MSJDVAH45HLF&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.xBmn1bCjMiZcg7st2OKRkkfI4kSlleW3UGbbTyKzXFW58FCKkTvAYe6M8Bp6luDUhzXIvBvKfxxi-sUnw5Nb_7Yzkp6Y4sehv6btJXLRERwcnu-a38tUXuey3rYQfVKmmP5oC8bGLQSm53BfH59q5zN_q49xhIqjwjLESh6sXsSA4mZl8kNbNp0ptIxNL72RHSkyMFCfnDYPrvAreT8Bb3lh2GrZQMIOk63Zv-6-844.SpXlweze8XL29HUrVGukyQVBGJQWg2nE_LS6bo-7zSw&dib_tag=se&keywords=tireminder+tpms+for+rv&qid=1759517098&sprefix=Tireminder%2Caps%2C200&sr=8-1&ufe=app_do%3Aamzn1.fos.5998aa40-ec6f-4947-a68f-cd087fee0848 We use the factory TPMS system for the tires on our 2019 Tundra tow vehicle.

I have the Rockstar full-width adjustable mud flaps on my 2019 Tundra tow vehicle. We are pleased with the performance, especially on gravel roads. The photo I hoped to include is not transferring properly, but we have the adjustable version, which is longer and therefore can extend closer to the road. Update: the photo is now attached.

I carry a Safe Jack RV Jack Kit in my tow vehicle. When testing it, I have jacked from the marked "Jack Point." That said, I plan to use the "stabilizer" jacks as well if I must change a tire by the side of the road. As jd1923 noted above, the trailer can shift if the ground underneath one jack point is soft. Three jack points is better than one, and the electric jacks are so easy to use. We also use our Tireminder TPMS system, with monitor mounted on the windshield, hoping to catch any trailer tire issues early! The person in the passenger seat checks the monitor regularly.

Thanks for your helpful suggestion. I have considered the Ride88 system. I actually purchased a different product from Amazon that secures the bike to the truck bed sidewall rather than that front of the bed: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0FP4TT13F?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title See attached photo. But, carrying my large mountain bike in the truck bed significantly limits the amount of other stuff we can haul in the bed. Our hope is to be able to carry the bike in a bike rack behind the trailer while on the road. Then, when necessary, secure the bike at night inside the truck bed with canopy. We can remove other stuff carried in tubs, that is a less likely theft target than the bike, and secure the bike inside the truck bed with canopy at night. Ronbrink, thanks for suggesting the front hitch mount. We may go that direction if we can't make the rear bike rack work. But, I am still hoping to find an RV-rated bike rack that will work with a 1.25" receiver. It seems to be that a 1-bike rack, properly designed, should not exceed the safe rear bumper load of an Oliver Elite II, and so be compatible with a 1.25" receiver. But, I have yet to find it!

Mossemi: Thanks for the "heads up." Here is my quandry: The Oliver bumper hitch has a 1.25" receiver, but the only 1UP bike racks rated for RV/travel trailer use (like the SD (Super Duty) require a 2" receiver. Yet, I note threads indicating that some Oliver Elite II owners use 1UP racks with the Oliver bumper hitch. Can anyone on this forum provide a solution?

I have reviewed various forum posts addressing use of a 1UP bike rack with an Oliver Elite II rear hitch receiver. The threads I found discuss modifying the Oliver standard 1.25" receiver to accept a 1UP bike rack with a 2" shank, but I could find no threads addressing use of a 1UP Quik Rack (which comes compatible with a 1.25" receiver) in a standard Oliver 1.25" rear hitch receiver. Does anyone use a 1UP Quik Rack (which works for me because I only need to carry one bike) with the standard Oliver 1.25" rear hitch receiver? If so, what is your experience?

Thanks! Boise is the closest metro area to our rural home in central Idaho, so we are among the beneficiaries of your thoughtful post. Great to know!

We opted for the manual door lock in our 2022 Elite II based on reports on this forum of folks getting locked in or out of their Olivers by failed RV Lock units. No issues with key duplication. We keep a spare Oliver door key in a compartment in our tow vehicle. Low tech, but so far, no issues.