Jump to content

Rivernerd

Members
  • Posts

    70
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    1

Rivernerd last won the day on November 18 2021

Rivernerd had the most liked content!

My Info

  • Gender or Couple
    Couple
  • Location
    Central Idaho

My RV or Travel Trailer

  • Do you own an Oliver Travel Trailer, other travel trailer or none?
    I don't own a RV or Travel Trailer
  • Hull #
    1000+ Ordered in October, 2021
  • Make
    Oliver
  • Model
    Legacy Elite II
  • Floor Plan
    Standard Floor Plan
  • What model is your other RV or Travel Trailer?
    Don't have another RV

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

Rivernerd's Achievements

Enthusiast

Enthusiast (6/14)

  • Conversation Starter
  • Collaborator Rare
  • Reacting Well Rare
  • First Post
  • Dedicated

Recent Badges

99

Reputation

  1. I wouldn't use it to install lug nuts, even in an emergency. It would be so easy to over torque and break off the stud, because the mechanical advantage makes it impossible to gauge torque by "feel." Although most tire shops I have patronized use impact wrenches to install lug nuts, I don't use those either, ever since I broke off a stud on one of my trucks with one. I now torque to spec by hand with a torque wrench. Worth the extra time, IMHO. One reason to carry the lug nut remover: to enable you to remove a tire after a less-than-careful tire tech over torqued your lug nuts to the point you can't get them off without it!
  2. That is the reason we are not ordering a front storage basket on our Elite II. I have been required to jack knife my raft trailer many times when backing into tight spaces. I welded a 3' straight steel extension onto the front of that A-frame trailer many years ago after denting a bumper during a jack knife maneuver. Problem solved. So, I want as much leeway between the Oliver trailer frame and the TV bumper as possible. If I could get one of the extendable tongues that was available on very early Olivers, I would get that upgrade for the same reason: maximum clearance if you must jack knife the trailer when backing.
  3. If ABS was not available at Ferguson Supply, you must be in the East somewhere. I cannot explain the reasons, but it is my observation that PVC is used for drain/waste/vent plumbing in the East, while ABS is universally used for drain/waste/vent plumbing in the West. I prefer ABS, not only because I am in the Western US, but because no primer is required. I have heard that some plumbing inspectors will fail a PVC installation if purple primer is not visible at each joint.
  4. I add my vote to the "nice job on the mod!" chorus. For those thinking of this mod for their Ollies, I will note that mixing PVC and ABS pipe is not allowed by most plumbing codes. You are generally allowed only one PVC/ABS connection when retrofitting plumbing, and for that joint, you should use "green" glue, which is designed to weld PVC to ABS, not regular PVC or ABS glue. Since it is doubtful that such mods will be seen by a plumbing inspector, and since none of the above PVC and ABS piping in under pressure, I expect there will be no issues. But for any future mods, I would recommend matching whichever pipe Oliver used for the original, even if it has to be ordered online, and using the glue appropriate for that type of pipe.
  5. We never buy extended warranties on anything. They are "hard sold" precisely because they are high-profit items for the seller, and therefore low-return for the buyer. And, the hassle of actually obtaining a replacement under an extended warranty at least doubles the time required to replace the covered item. If the extended warranty were offered and administered by Oliver, it would be a bit more attractive, because of Oliver's outstanding Customer Service department. But, the extended warranty is sold by American Guardian Warranty Services. We are not interested.
  6. With commercial RV park prices on the rise, the marginal cost of additional "boondocking" power (i.e., solar panels and lithium battery packages) will be amortized more quickly. If you are even happier boondocking than buying RV park services, like we are, the marginal cost of solar with lithium makes more sense.
  7. If you end up resorting to spray lube, with tapping, PB Blaster is my preferred penetrating lube. It smells awful, but gets the job done if you spray, allow to soak in, tap-tap-tap; spray, allow to soak in, tap-tap-tap, etc. Place some shop towels underneath it to catch drips, as it is stinky, oily and can make a mess. But it works. https://www.amazon.com/Blaster-PB-PENETRATING-Lubricant-OZ/dp/B00XOSYNM6/ref=sr_1_4?gclid=CjwKCAiAzrWOBhBjEiwAq85QZw2ytU7Zjy20DT2TziBOTsHn2XyJajdmoLwrNdJp8EFrT0uyOVaSoxoChKsQAvD_BwE&hvadid=177553433943&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=9029558&hvnetw=g&hvqmt=e&hvrand=16144056585949407947&hvtargid=kwd-10463478193&hydadcr=6400_9585557&keywords=pb+blaster+penetrating+oil&qid=1640879144&sr=8-4 Thanks for your original post. My wife and I take delivery of our Elite II in September. Among many other things I have learned from informed posters on this forum, I plan to take some nickel-based anti-sieze compound with me to put on the spare tire bolt threads during the initial "shake-down" period. Good luck! Looking forward to your report.
  8. I have had good results with this Gardner-Bender Liquid Tape product: https://www.amazon.com/Gardner-Bender-07315001126-LTB-400-Electrical/dp/B000FPAN2K/ref=asc_df_B000FPAN2K/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=198096571354&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=10257715978080992862&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9029558&hvtargid=pla-350654169801&psc=1
  9. Kirk: Even if Oliver is willing to allow you the "cabinet-instead of-microwave" option on your 2022 model, I would consider the thread below before presuming that the High Pointe convection microwave Oliver offers will not be acceptable. While your baking standards may be very high, there are lots of pretty satisfied Elite II convection microwave owners on this forum who have baked bread, cookies, poultry, etc.: You might also consider seeking additional input by starting another thread focused on convection oven baking results. FWIW, my wife and I like to bake too, which is why we plan to drop the extra $450 for the convection upgrade. Even if it does not offer results quite as good as our built-in double convection/standard ovens at home (which we won't know until we try it), we view it as one of the trade-offs of camping. And, if we're not satisfied with the convection oven's performance, we can always resort to that venerable Idaho camp kitchen tool we take on every extended river trip---a dutch oven! I've baked many a cake on the river... My 2 cents. Ralph Pond
  10. Yes. The support for the middle of the bed is comprised of: (1) the table top and (2) an extra support piece, that goes in the closet when not in "bed" mode. See this video:
  11. We also want to "have our cake and it too." That is why we have ordered the standard floor plan instead of the twin. It has an even larger daytime walkway/seating area, because there is no night stand. And, the standard floor plan comes complete with the king bed center fiberglass support that is conveniently velcroed into the closet, so the daytime storage solution for the center support is "built in." We like being able to have a true king-sized bed, without a night stand in the middle of it. If you prefer to have the night stand, then the twin bed floor plan, and the extra expense for the options specified by Overland, make sense.
  12. As a retired attorney who was retained to defend claims by many insurance companies when I practiced, I second Mattnan's advice. Insurance adjusters are trained to close claims for minimum payouts, and to get them closed as quickly as possible. To "arm" yourself with facts, I would invest some time getting educated about the demonstrated caustic effects of the fire extinguisher you used, and which steps are necessary to remediate those effects. And, I would insist that any remediation done at the insurer's expense be effective to fully address those caustic effects. If you get pushback from the adjuster, I recommend you mention the term "bad faith." That is a term of art in insurance law, which refers to claims for breach of the insurance company's duty of good faith and fair dealing with its insureds. In most states, successful bad faith claims against insurers include an award of not only full compensation for loss by the insured, but the insured's attorneys' fees as well. Your odds of success on such a claim can only be reliably evaluated by an attorney in your state who specializes in bad faith claims, and who is appraised of all the facts, which will likely include how fully the damage from your fire, and fire suppression, has been remediated. But, be prepared for delay. A more fair settlement is usually a much delayed settlement. If your cash flow situation does not allow you to purchase a replacement tow vehicle (particularly in today's crazy-high market) without the payout from the insurer or sale of your repaired Tundra, you have a cost/benefit decision to make regarding how long you can afford to wait for payment by the insurer. Good luck! I would be interested in a report describing how it goes. Ralph Pond
  13. Understood. But, before I contact Oliver and suggest they switch to 90-degree LP hoses, I thought it prudent to ask if someone else has already made that specific suggestion. Perhaps Oliver has considered and rejected that proposal, for reasons I have not yet been able to find on this forum. If I get no "takers" after a few days, I will initiate the conversation with Oliver, as the 90-degree LP hoses make sense to me. Who would be the appropriate person to contact at Oliver with such a suggestion?
  14. I raised this issue on the Propane Tank Mod-Installation of Gas Stop Valves thread, but decided it makes sense to start a separate, more on-point topic: Has anyone suggested to Oliver that 90-degree LP hoses be used, instead of straight hoses twisted into a tight bend, to connect the two propane tanks to the regulator that sits between them? The image above is from the photo gallery on Oliver's website. As depicted, the outlet from each of the two tanks must face forward, so the clamp that holds the two tanks in place can securely attach to the collar above the valves. The two inlets on the regulator face to the sides. Oliver uses a straight hose to connect each tank outlet to the regulator, which requires a sharp bend in each hose. 90-degree LP hoses are readily available, like the one shown below. https://www.amazon.com/GasGear-GasStop-Connector-Regulator-Inverted/dp/B094BZX89T/ref=asc_df_B094BZX89T/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=533377784854&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=9276931719320922229&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9029558&hvtargid=pla-1410142641596&psc=1 I doubt that 90-degree LP hoses cost much more than a straight ones, and they should actually be easier to install. Has anyone suggested to Oliver that 90-degree hoses be used instead of straight ones when the tanks are installed at the factory?
  15. Given the necessary 90-degree relationship between the two tank valve outlets and the two regulator inlets, I wonder why Oliver doesn't use 90-degree hoses for factory installations, instead of installing straight hoses with a severe S-bend? The cost differential can't be more than a few $$ per hose, and installation should be easier, saving some labor time. Has anyone suggested this to Oliver?
×
×
  • Create New...