Rivernerd

Great suggestion for installing the whale tail. Can you do the reverse for removal, i.e., safely detach the ball from the coupler with the whale tail still attached and the Andersen chains tight, then back up 1 to 1-1/2" to create slack to enable you to pull off the whale tail ?

This is the most important reason to use the Andersen hitch as designed: liability in the event of an accident. If your tow vehicle owners manual instructs to use a weight distribution hitch when towing more than 5000 lbs., "Just Do It." FWIW, I don't find installing or removing the whale tail to be much trouble, using the trick recommended by Jason Essary: once the hitch ball is attached, raise the front "stabilizer" jack (which also raises the rear of the attached tow vehicle), until you see slack in the chains. Did it a couple of times this past weekend.

Oliver uses Mystik No. 2, and recommends that owners also use it, to avoid mixing greases: https://www.amazon.com/Mystik-665005002901-Hi-Temp-Multi-Purpose-Grease/dp/B0B85SSQQ9/ref=sr_1_2?dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.T8s3eQBiwJh36veWt_W9io39pC8kilB52ekv2jldzv3qxB8wmo4PGUVkrlSIGW-LWagzMKZ3PQzRfwKLinMgDvTpX56OktuykKMLG0-Z3PDTZLlEiqkIdGbJwDVTuGiB9kVL3Pqf46wMmP-ELukh2Jjzep_N6qy24-5ylPpDrmjQOmVFqSW_9POcJGPB_glRD1rhYwmbyGDZfg-rcU-aie3u2JWB5f7xFeBEgIE1oRJotg2gMyztc2IzZImTxf0M4eKZkv4XJD7PCpDDdX3g5h5f32JPe9J6nJbblRy0qAA.Jvhjqox0XQDK6gHQJUtcEGqYN5IxZYj0v9B9G9mADfM&dib_tag=se&hvadid=295421046137&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=1026990&hvnetw=g&hvqmt=e&hvrand=5412146109433303244&hvtargid=kwd-569702912144&hydadcr=6402_9585570&keywords=mystik+jt-6+hi-temp+grease+2&qid=1721744170&sr=8-2

I concur. I bought Lock'NLubes for both of my grease guns for the many zerks on my Kubota tractor many years ago. Now I use them for the Elite II suspension. Overpriced? Yes. Worth it? Yes.

With our Xantrex Freedom XC Pro 3000 watt inverter, the button on the main unit (under the street side bed) must be in the "off" position (out, not pushed in) for the remote panel (next to the pantry at about eye level) to function. To turn on the inverter from the remote push the spring-loaded silver button in. Silver button out on the remote, like the main unit, is the "off" position. If the silver button on the main unit is pushed it, you can only operate the inverter from the main unit, which is a pain because it is under the street side bed.

Sorry for the late reply, but we were traveling in our Elite II this past weekend! I did the firmware update. I have had no [20] inverter error codes since then, but the battery State of Charge also has not dropped below 50% during that time either. I recommend you do the firmware update. Available here: https://xantrex.com/library/firmware-updating/

When preparing our 2022 Elite II for a weekend outing, I found error code [20] displayed on the inverter remote panel. When an inverter reboot produced no change, I consulted the section of the Oliver Owner's Manual Optional features book which addresses our Xantrex Freedom XC Pro 3000 watt inverter. To my dismay, Error Code 20 does not appear in the table of error codes. Codes 1-19, and then 21 are listed, along with their respective meanings, but not Code 20! Since I was at home with good internet access, I checked the Oliver Knowledge Base. Sure enough, Xantrex Error Code 20 is covered in detail there. Included are instructions for resetting the inverter to clear Error Code 20. I followed those instructions. They worked. I hope this post helps someone else who encounters Error Code 20.

If your 2023 model has a Truma air conditioner then, yes, we had a similar experience with our 2022 LEII. We found water leakage around the inside of the AC unit after the first rain storm. Ultimately, Oliver's service staff determined that the leak came from the screws used to secure the exterior AC hood to the AC body, and from the failure to caulk the heads of those screws during installation. Those screw heads sit in wells that collect rainwater. After longer replacement screws were installed, and the wells containing the screw heads were carefully caulked, no more leakage.

We also got the recall notice for our 2022 LE II Hull No. 1291, even though we bought the factory upgrade to the 2-5/16" Bulldog coupler. As you would expect, our coupler reads "12500 lbs." Oliver is just being overinclusive, to be safe.

Another way to think of it: The "Boondocking" configuration is only for when you need to add water to the fresh tank from the rear inlet when boondocking (i.e., you do not have access to a "city water" connection). "Normal" configuration is for when you need to use water from either the fresh tank or a city water connection, regardless of whether you have a water hookup or are "boondocking" at the time of use.

Yes. I turned the red solar cutoff switch in the overhead bin next to the pantry to "Off", and ensured that the inverter remote switch (to the right of the pantry) was in the "off" position.

Jason Essary gets the credit. He authorized the reduction of LBCO after consultation with Xantrex and Lithionics.

The lights and their related switches in our trailers are 12V, with low amperage. Any "bite" from that 12V system should be barely noticeable.

When you buy a multimeter, get one with a clamp, like this one: https://www.homedepot.com/p/600-Amp-Digital-Clamp-Meter-DC-AC-Multimeter-True-RMS-Auto-Ranging-4000-Max-Reading-NCV-Measurement-LED-Backlight-QXBFZDKCWAC60TQ7CV0/325788161 The clamp enables testing of individual wires without having to touch bare wire (which sometimes requires disconnecting one end of it). You can isolate a wire, place the clamp around it, and determine whether it has power running through it. Really helpful for troubleshooting issues like the one you are trying to solve.

I have had good luck for the past 4 years with Dakota Lithium LiFePO4 batteries. I use them to power my 12V CPAP machine on wilderness river trips. Thanks for your diagrams showing that two 320ah Dakota Lithium batteries will fit into the Oliver battery tray. If I ever need to replace my Lithionics G31 batteries we bought with our 2022 Elite II, those diagrams will be helpful.