DunnYet

Hi Mike - welcome to the forum! We have pulled a LE I and LE II with our F150 EcoBoost Max Tow with no issues. Glad to discuss what we take and don't take - last trip to the scales we were fine on weight for the F150. Our most recent trip was Texas to Colorado crossing the divide several times - no problems going up or down the passes.

Well - it finally happened to us. We broke the hinge on the Norcold Fridge in Reset (Hull # 1030 LE I). Easy fix right? It is if you can source the parts. For reference, the parts are Left Hand Hinge - Norcold 619042 Right Hand Hinge - Norcold 619041 Unfortunately, I have only found a source for the Right Hand Hinge. The Left Hand Hinge seems to be very elusive. Have a service ticket in with Oliver to see if they have a source, as well as a request in directly to Norcold. Does anyone have a favorite source for Norcold parts that you could share? Or a spare hinge that I could purchase from you? 🙂

Would not recommend using them like this. Plus - I have no idea how the occupants ever reached that first step.

Loving these Colorado temps - Reset 2.0 #1364 at Eleven Mile Lake State Park Colorado. If you stay here do take time to do the Canyon. (What am I saying, most people with Olivers will be in the dispersed camping in the Canyon 🙂 )

All working - we had filled the tanks. I just got it in my head that I needed to switch the valves to pull from the tank. Not sure where that came from except a combination of our longest drive day, a thirty minute plus standstill after a wreck closed our only route, and just not having done a dry camp in a year or two. I sat there doing the prime step ( silver lining - was able to remove a thimble full of plastic shavings from the filter ) with the valves in boondock position. Finally in frustration switched back to normal and everything primed water started flowing etc. I then decided to etch my stupidity in stone by making this post questioning the diagram on the bench cover back. I seem to be determined to make the switch from the LE I to the LE II as traumatic as possible I guess. Have not even started my post on Truma Heaters and Truma Water Heaters and error codes that I never saw on my LE I. But I am making sure I have all my ducks on the same pond before posting that. (Gave up on ducks in a row long ago.)

Ok - so city water connection and fresh tank configuration are the same. (Facepalm) Have been traveling with our LE I for two years and somehow this never sank in. I keeping getting wrapped around the double axles on this LE II. yep - I blame the altitude. Hypoxia for sure. I need to go start making controversial posts on Facebook 🙂

That’s my thought - but I can guarantee that the water pump is pulling from the fresh tank. There is no city water hookup within 3/4 of a mile.

Admissions - in order to get them out of the way.: (1) No we didn’t test the fresh tanks / pump before leaving. (2). Yes we did realize that at least one park had no water at the site and we would need it. Now to the am I crazy part. Please see the image below . If you look at the photo above am I in boodocking configuration or normal configuration? For whatever reason, when I have the valves in Boondocking configuration as shown on the chart, I can’t get water from the fresh tank. In a fit of frustration I reversed everything and it primed, filled the accumulator, and started working great.. I have never had this type of problem with simple line diagrams. Altitude induced hypoxia?

We did a short shakedown trip the weekend before leaving and did not do a full shutdown of the trailer, so that could definately help. Will do that when we get home to test. Sounds very similar to our experience. Thanks for that tip!

Can’t wait - we are site 46. Inks Lake is one of our favorite parks. Last time we were there we discovered a great local winery nearby as well. Looking forward to meeting everyone! I hope that by then that Reset (the original LE I ) has new people to travel with and we can get them to attend as well.

@jd1923 the funny thing is that the only time I have to think about how Reset 2.0 works is when we are camping in it. 🙂 I end up with a running list of "mod this mod that" and "am I doing this right or just expecting something that is not the predicted result." Our loop back to Texas gives us the more Colorado nights - then over to Kansas, Olkahoma, and back into Texas. Enjoying the solo stove nights while we can. But the end result is two more filled in spots on our US Map. 😀

Update - We have been in Southern Colorado for the last several days mooch docking with a cousin who has a cabin northeast of Durango. Daytime temps in the high 70's, overnights in the mid 40's. The isotherm attained the food safe range (between 33 and 40 F) the first night we were there and stayed there the whole time we were on 30-amp shore power. I don't want to assume design flaw (as in "Refrigerator will only keep things cold when it's cold outside.") but at first glance it appears that we were just dealing with the fact that the compressor fridge could not keep up with the high temps of Texas and New Mexico. However, possibly a combination of insulation on the back of the refrigerator compartment combined with fan forcing hot air out of the compartment may be the answer. The internal venting still puzzles me. Since our internal temp sensor mounted over the bathroom door shows the cabin at 91F while crossing the Texas prairie, it does not seem like forcing air from the refrigerator compartment into the cabin or forcing 91F air from the cabin into the compartment behind the fridge will make a difference. I don't see how the compressor fridge will work safely without some type of external venting. Makes me wish I had paid more attention to intro to fluid dynamics. Would welcome any thoughts on this.

So ...seal the interior slot above the fridge, remove the blocking cover, and fan force out vent through the exterior vent. Sounds like a do-able project. We have both awnings so will come up with a different switch placement. May just put a switch through the (to be blocked) vents above the fridge, that way we can turn it on when we turn on the fridge and turn it off when doing the shutdown process. Thanks very much!!

Great suggestions John - When you are talking vents are you referring to the internal vs external vents? We do have the 2023 with the single upper external vent - however when we got it from the previous owners it had a blocking cover installed in the external vent. It's not an airtight block by any means. Photo of external vent and vent cover. The internal vent is open to the inside -and is unobstructed as shown in the photo from the exterior with the vent cover and blocking cover removed. Inside view.

No obstructions in the interior vent - I took out the external vent cover and could see clearly into the interior of the trailer. There is a small amount of frost in the interior freezer, but not so much that we cannot get the ice cube trays in and out. The interior fan is just to circulate the air inside the refrigerator compartment - to keep the temp at a common level. Reduces air stratification where the cold air ends up at the bottom and the warmer air at the top. We did the first couple of days in the driveway without it and the temps where less stable. However, in the interest of science wil pull it out over the next day and see what happens Yes to small freezer - two ice cube trays is it. The freezer works great, it's just useless for any food. Given the other posts on the forum about breaking off the tabs, I don't want Rebecca to be even more annoyed with me and the trailer fridge by breaking the tabs while removing the door. Will try this in a safe space between trips. The tri fuel fridge is the thing we miss most about the LE I Hull #1030. Well, that and the ability to park in two parking spaces in a parking lot. Finding a place to park in downtown Durango today was an experience.... ----- Now - for updates from the road. We traveled from northern NM to north of Durango today, with the ambient dropping into the 70s for the last half of the day. The fridge performed better in the lower ambient temps. While traveling through NM the interior of the trailer (also being monitored with a sensor push sensor mounted above the bathroom door) was pretty much in the low 90's. Once into elevation in Colorado it dropped to the low 80's. Could this just be a design capacity issue? If it's venting into an interior that's already 90 degrees, is that causing a lack of cooling? Also - could I be picking up extra heat being transmitted through the exterior shell into the refrigerator compartment? High winds everywhere we have camped this trip have prevented the use of the awning, so no shade on the curb side of the trailer when stopped. Unfortunately, I don't have an extra sensor push sensor to monitor the compartment temp behind the fridge. Would some type of reflective barrier over the inside of the exterior wall help?

That’s the exact one we have. We purchased it for the Tri-Fuel fridge and moved it to the LE II Isotherm compressor fridge. It helped greatly in the tri-Fuel.

Posting some additional information in hopes of getting this to be more than a decent wine fridge for red wine. As a reminder- Hull 1634 2023 LE II - New to us. From when we left Saturday to tonight, the fridge has never reached what we would consider a "food safe temp" Using a Sensor Push sensor located in the middle of the fridge compartment the lowest temp we have recorded is 40.2 degrees F. Most of the time it's in the high 40's. The freezer - small as it is - works great. Keeps two trays of ice cubes solid. Tonight, we don't have the A/C running, so I have been listening for the compressor to cycle. It rarely comes on. If you open the door it will run for about 30 seconds, then stop. It will cycle intermittently; however it never seems to stay on for very long. Reading the troubleshooting guide the following things seem to match the symptoms for loss of refrigerant or insufficient ventilation. Everything I have read on the forums says to leave the vent block in the upper vent, so I have. I can't see any obstructions in the internal upper vents. Could this be a thermostat? Something where the fridge "thinks" it's at the proper temperature even though it's in the upper 40's? What temp should I expect when the dial is all the way over at 7? Do I need a "Spinal Tap" dial that goes up to "11"? We don't carry enough wine just to use it to chill down red wine and put a little chill on shelf stable products. That's what we are using if for on this trip. Any suggestions greatly appreciated. Keivn

We purchased a portable when our built in died on a trip and it was faster to the get than the built in replacement. One of the best insurance items I have in the truck,

That’s the kind of math I’m looking for 🙂

I have been considering doing this but had a small voice in the back of my head that keeps saying “check the wire gauge and the fuses.” Any concern with moving from the 5 watts to 65 watts on the factory wiring harness? I keep meaning to do the math, but I am bad enough on AC wire gauges, I’m still new to DC.

[We find our hero unloading the tow vehicle on a hot Texas driveway having just driven back from the Hill Country. ] You know, I should take the Andersen Hitch Ball off the truck between trips. It's so much larger than the regular ball I used with the LE I. I bet I run into that all week while loading for the next trip. That's gonna hurt. [Grabs lightweight ratcheting crescent wrench and starts to remove screw in anti-rattle hitch pin.] Spin Spin Spin Sp... Huh, the anti-rattle hitch pin is not coming all the way out of the internal nut that holds it tight against the wall. Guess I should get a socket wrench. [Ignores voice in head that says "What about a squirt of penetrating oil there cowboy."] Spin forward with the socket wrench, spin backward with the socket wrench. Still sticking in the same place. You know - I have the longer, non ratcheting handle. [Ignores voice in head that says "You know that the real name for that is a 'Breaker Bar'?"] Put a bit of weight behind that - it will loosen up. [SFX - metal snapping] Oh snap. That's going to be a bit of work to get out of there. [Audience laughter]

My May assumption is from the original date on the registration, so could have been April. I wilL say it did not take much to pull up, so don’t do what I did this week and try to use a breaker bar to remove a stuck anti rattle hitch pin. 🙂 (I did learn that a sawsall with a Diablo blade is faster than a grinding wheel to cut it off after you sheer the bolt inside the hitch.) Photos - because I wanted to be sure myself.

The LE II Is #1364 - we are the second owners but I think they picked up in May of 23. #1030 is the LE I - we are looking for it’s next home. We have the flat surface under the table top - no dip like the older ones where you have some storage. The top is definately Velcro on ours. However there do seem to be a lot of mid-year changes that occurred in the ‘23s.

Ours (2023 LE II) is held down by Velcro strips. Found this out while preparing for new tops Foy tops. 🙂

New to us Oliver Legacy Elite II (2023) Hull #1364. Have spent the weekend in the Texas Hlll Country updating my knowledge of Oliver systems from our two year journey with LE I Hull #1030 (2022). Only two problems so far. Giving each issue it’s own topic for future search help. In this topic - our problems with the Isothem fridge. We can’t keep it in the safe zone consistently. We have SensorPush sensors in the main compartment as well as the freezer - the freezer seems to work great but the fridge hovers at the top of the safe zone for much of the day. Recovery after opening the door also seems to take longer than our old tri-fuel fridge. Here is the full scenario: (1) Shore power 30 Amp all tests good. No issues with any other systems (AC/ lighting / etc) (2) We have a fridge fan that we moved over from our LE I tri fuel. It’s located in the center of the fridge space and operating correctly. (3) Weekend food load - not a lot but not empty. (4) Confirmed that the vent cover is in place on the exterior vent opening. Have read everything I can find searching the forums. It does not appear that the previous owners did any extra insulation on the exterior wall, should I get some reflective blanket material and put that in covering from the upper vent to the lower access panel? Fins and back side of the fridge look clean, so I don’t think there is an issue with buildup on the coils. Appreciate any advice on how to improve the operation on the fridge. I don’t want to have to haul a backup fridge if I don’t need to.