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John Dorrer

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Posts posted by John Dorrer

  1. If you do research on using the black tank for extra fresh water, you will see it isn't a good idea. The plastic for the black tank is not conducive for drinking. The chemical make-up would be unsafe.  The chemical make-up will allow those chemicals to leach into the water.

    • Like 4
  2. Welcome from Hull #1045, Jolli Olli.

     

    Oliver doesn't customize individual trailers. Oliver does offer a composting toilet, and installing a different manufacturer is not going to happen through Oliver.

     

    I think I would live with the sink. Sleeping is about the only thing we do so the sink tank wouldn't even be on our radar to change.

    Solar and lithium battery upgrades above the Platinum will be on you.

     

    The fresh, gray, and black tanks go in every trailer. Some have shared their mod to pipe their composting toilet urine container to the black tank so they don't have empty multiple times in a day.  One owner switched out their composting toilet to another brand and had to drive to that dealer to get things changed

     

    Not sure about when the soft start was added as standard with the Truma AC, either '24 or '25. At the Texas Oliver Rally Truma was present and they spent over 2 days adding the soft start to Owners that had the Truma AC added in '23 and '24.

     

    Keep asking away. We are all a family.

     

     

    • Like 8
  3. 4 hours ago, Galileo said:

    2022 LEII #1029 here.

    been using our Oliver pretty steadily - on our 4th multi-month outing. Currently in Manatee Springs (Chiefland) Florida.

     

    Starting having an issue with our Truma AquaGo Comfort water heater. It heated fine, but was noisy with a “thumping” or banging noise when the burner lit.

     

    Searching the forums, we found Galway Girl’s post about burner tubes shaking loose, and her description of “popping” sounded pretty close to our symptoms.

    Luckily, I travel with a lot of tools, so I investigated looking for the loose burner tubes. Nope, all tight and in place.

    What I did find was a little scary. (See the attached photo.)

    the nut holding the main gas line to the burner manifold was quite loose. You can see by the soot on the bottom of the burner assembly and nut that a lot of gas was escaping and burning in the wrong place. 

    I tightened the nut up as much as I dared - not wanting to twist the fitting out of the manifold and put the whole thing back together. It now works fine.

    That said, I’m sure this nut will vibrate loose again, so between now and then I’ll have to think of a fix. Pipe dope suitable for LP is a possibility.

    Between this and the problem Galway Girl posted - and more than one incident of fires - it seems Truma had (has?) a QC or design problem that could lead to so serious consequences.

     

     

    IMG_5789.jpeg

    We have Hull #1045 and received the recall letter a month ago.

     Have you not received your letter? 

  4. 10 hours ago, Steve Morris said:

    A follow-up now that we’re in Florida at the 9th Annual Eggs ‘n S’mores rally, and can actually test the modification. 
     

    1) Someone appears to have connected the hot and cold feed lines on the bathroom backwards… Back in  November I’d already had the water heater drained and bypassed, so I had only tested for leaks and function. Guess I should have checked to see if it worked as designed!! 🤪 I’ll swap the feed lines tomorrow. 

    B) Something I didn’t anticipate, and need to look at @mossemi’s drawings again. Everything works fine other than the above notable exception while feeding from the fresh water tank. But when feeding the system via the city water inlet, it is somehow filling the fresh water tank and eventually overflowing. I’m guessing Mike had a one-way valve in the recirculating line that I missed. 
     

    More to follow!

     

     

     

     

    With the regular set-up the valve, I believe at the water pump, got stuck allowing water to fill the water tank. There have been several posts here and on Facebook. Appears to be a quick fix.

  5. 11 hours ago, jd1923 said:

    Must be close enough. If you're running 4/0 wire, which is over-engineered unless you're running A/C on inverter, you are more than OK for a few feet. I would put extra batteries dead center under the pantry. I have our Victron Mp2 Inverter-Charger just 4.5 ft (1.4M) from our Epoch 600AH LiFePO4 batteries and all DC runs are connected directly to the MP2.

    I could simply add another battery, say an Epoch 460AH and install it under the pantry. The terminals would be only 2 ft from our inverter connection which would make it closer than the 600AH in our battery bay, NP!

    Hey JD, when you have time, let's talk about your upcoming trip to AZ. Looking forward to seeing you when you get to the great Southwest!

    For sure. When we dial in the backside of the trip, I'll let you know.

     

    On battery location, I thought they had to be tight (close) together. Thinking putting battery under rear dinette seat, might require a longer cable. Way above my knowledge base🙃

  6. On 11/24/2024 at 11:36 AM, KeysConchs said:

    Nice upgrade, Ray.  Curious where you installed the 3rd battery.  We are installing 2, 300aH Epochs in the battery bay and have room under the streetside bed for more batteries, even with the Victron MPII installed there.   Just wondering if anyone else has considered this option or alternative locations for increasing LiPO4 battery capacity?  Is this unwise considering venting issues with possible battery failure?  

    I believe the batteries need to be in close proximity of each other. Cable length is significant. Hopefully someone can confirm that. 

    • Like 2
  7. 44 minutes ago, ScubaRx said:

    We are all going down the road towing an earthquake through a hurricane. No screw ever gets tighter with vibration, it always loosens. I go completely through our Hull #50 at least once a year and check all bolts and screws for tightness, especially the electrical connections. I’ve preached this for several years on multiple platforms. You can’t blame a manufacturer for a loose screw on a a product  that you’ve used successfully for years. The impetus is on us to maintain the product through regular inspections and maintenance. No

    Well Stated👍

    • Like 5
  8. On 1/3/2025 at 2:19 PM, Steve Morris said:

    10 days to go. 

    4-6"  of new snowovernight in the driveway, and 8" near the house and on the sidewalk. This is our first real accumulation of the year here in northern Ohio (only 0-1" prior.)

    The bad news is that it will not get above freezing before we leave next Monday, so I won't be able to de-winterize and fill the fresh tank before leaving. And we'll also probably be at a motel the two nights coming down instead of at Cracker Barrel. I'm sure glad we got a full hook up at the Eggs 'N S'mores Rally this year, so I can flush the lines and fill the tanks when we arrive at the rally!

    I'm going to have to find a truck wash to get the salt off of everything before getting to the rally.

     

    IMG_2129.thumb.jpeg.231b527110e2da2f37fd79cba6907408.jpeg

    We just got 5-8" and drifting. That time of year. Not sure we have had this much in one snow the past 3 years, let alone for a total winter snow amount.

    • Like 2
    • Wow 1
  9. 3 hours ago, Happy Feat said:

    We are the new owners of Piccolino (original name as we have not yet had a decommissioning/recommissioning ceremony with appropriate amounts of rum to change the name) hull # 1346 and are on our inaugural trip from MA to Mayport FL. We had a fabulous experience with the previous owners and are thrilled with our new rolling nest and our new tow vehicle aka The Beast, 2024 GMC 2500HD Denali using the Gen-y Boss hitch. Jason and Kelly were so helpful as we marched up our learning curve in towing and Oliver's. This forum has also been a great source of information, thanks to you all.

    So far, our tow experience has been great, feeling very stable and at ease underway. Our first two nights saw temperatures down to 14F and we remained warm and dry.  Unit is winterized with composting head so no worries for frozen lines.

    We have previously owned a 2016 J Navion and a 2019 Tiffen 34PA and are finding our Oliver to be so well designed, engineered and manufactured. But I have to admit, I still need to understand how the toilet paper holder is designed! 

    See you on the road!

    20241224_145009.jpg

    20241221_084055.jpg

    Congrats. You will have big shoes to fill. Jason & Kelly's trips were epic.

     

    • Like 1
  10. On 6/6/2024 at 11:01 PM, jd1923 said:

    If the engineering behind the Lithionics product would allow ANY current to the heater when temps are above freezing or say above 35+ degrees Fahrenheit, the heater should be disconnected. This very well could be the cause of 3% daily loss. @Geronimo John hit this on the nail!

    Oh, and if you are losing 3% daily and the Lithionics app shows no negative current draw, the app is not reading correctly. Loss of SOC can only occur with -Amps over a period of time. Love my $40 shunt, pure and simple, mounted to the negative terminal of my battery bank ALWAYS shows -A when batteries are discharging, and +A the next morning in the Arizona sun!

    You can disconnect the ground and not worry about the cause (easy solution, takes just 5 min) or strip the overhead out of these batteries. If they were mine, I would first bypass the heaters, and if that did not solve the problem, I would disconnect their BMS and monitor my batteries the old-fashioned way, with system shunt or a simple voltmeter. 😂

    How much draw on the CO detector?

    • Like 3
  11. On 12/17/2024 at 9:59 PM, SeaDawg said:

    State parks are primarily supported by state taxes.

    I have no problem paying extra to camp in state parks outside my state.

    Prime camping season in my state is winter. Out of states book it up,  routinely. Makes it harder for families to book sites in season.

    I totally support additional fees for out of state. I've  never complained in the states that charge me extra. I get it.

    We just camped in several New Mexico State Parks. I actually don't remember paying any additional. 

    I purchase an Indiana and Texas State Parks passes because we camp there for 10-20 days and the passes pay for themselves.

     

     

    $600 annual pass in New Mexico wouldn't pay for itself. Each state is different. One has to do the math to determine whether to purchase an annual pass🙃

    • Like 1
  12. On 9/11/2021 at 8:46 AM, topgun2 said:

    In researching weather data for Meeteetse, WY for July 15, 2021, Weather Underground shows a wind gust of 51 miles per hour.  Certainly I wouldn't call it a gust when the wind maintained its speed for about 15 minutes.  However, since the area I was camped is devoid of trees, buildings and even hills that could help block the wind, I suspect that the real wind speed was somewhat higher than this reported gust.

    Another possible reason for the four stake tabs becoming detached from the body could be that the thread used to sew them had become "tired".  While I have used this shelter for 6 years, it has never been put away wet nor has it been abused.  But, as I mentioned above, Clam just might have engineered these so that they would "release" during this kind of event.  In any case, I would suggest that anyone who owns a Clam should take a look at the area where these tabs are sewn to the tent just to make sure that all is OK.

    Bill

    Well our 4 side has 9 lives. On Cape Cod it was one stake from the ship channel. At Inks Lake several years ago, it ended up 250 yards back on the park Road. Another time it landed in our pond while I had it on the patio to clean and dry

    The four corner tabs have all come off and been re-attached with fishing line. Holes have been patched.

    It  keeps on ticking. We will continue to use it until we can't.

     

    • Like 2
  13. IMO this is a disaster waiting to happen. The chance of damaging your trailer is high. It is not a question if, but when. Not worth the risk. The stability is another concern. If that breaks off while driving, the result could be deadly for someone following behind and cause you to loose control.

     

    Please listen to what others have shared. 

    • Like 1
    • Love 1
  14. 4 hours ago, Patriot said:

    Hi Steve, 

    Neat video!

    I just spoke with Oliver sales. They still take trailer orders at Oliver Sales and Service, but if you’re in a state that has a dealer, you need to go through a dealer to place your order.  If your state does not have a dealer you can order directly from Oliver. You can still opt for the Oliver experience and take delivery at the Sales and Service Center in Hohenwald.  

    You may want to edit your video at the 12:05 minute mark.  

    Cheers and Happy Travels!

    Patriot🇺🇸

    Thanks for posting this. Late last year or early this year Steve Landrum posted that he had just received a call from Scott Oliver that moving forward all sales would be through the dealer network.

     

    Then, recently someone posted on Facebook they were going to order through the Mothership. I commented that it had to be through a dealer and cut and pasted Steve's Forum post. Almost immediately someone from Oliver posted on Facebook that trailers could still be ordered from the Mothership.

     

    It would be nice if there was an official announcement from Oliver. I felt like a Jack A__. 

     

    Things must have changed.  Steve posted what came from the his conversation with Scott. 🙃

     

    • Like 2
  15. On 3/21/2021 at 11:32 PM, JRK said:

    I did not adjust the Andersen after pickup on Wednesday, as I was directed. I was told that I would not need to adjust the tension chains.

    I noticed this failure of the coupler. I do not think that that the connector was properly screwed into the female portion. The threads do not appear to be stripped.

    Question-how do I adjust the Andersen? The instructions indicate that I am to loosen/tighten when remove/replace, sort of. I was not shown that at delivery. I was not shown how the Andersen would lower the front end, if need, by distributing the weight, as in the instruction manual.

    I find no information in the instruction manual about the coupling link. I went to Tractor Supply someplace in Oklahoma, maybe New Mexico - Tumcumcari, I think, and bought a similar coupler to replace the failed one. Does anyone know what grade steel it should be? I assume that this is the reason it is there-to fail if the strain is too excessive, but again, no info found in the manual. Maybe I am not looking in the right place.

    Towing an E1 with a Toyota Tacoma. Have had no issues in the about 1,500 miles, until now.

    IMG_2248.jpg

    IMG_2250.jpg

    Didn't realize this was a 3 year old post, so I removed my comment

     

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