rferg800

thanks I will compare to my trailer tomorrow (Hull#466).

There is 8 or more different size wires leaving or going into the battery compartment on my Oliver. I need to id what they go to.

I am replacing original Gel batteries with a LFP battery. This is just the start of a major boon docking upgrade. First 2 parts are: 1) Pecron F5000LFP This will upgrade our inverter to 7200 watt. Battery capacity of 5120 watt hours at 48 volts. It has 2 solar charge controllers 3200watt each. Able to recharge with AC at 15amp or 30amp. It has a XT60 DC output port with adjustable voltage 12 - 40 volts which I will use to keep a 100 Amp Hour LFP 12 volt charged. 2) Li Time 12.8V 100Ah slim Edition Both these new battery units are self heating and bluetooth accessible. Both of these will fit on the original slide out tray in the Oliver battery compartment. Plan is to disable the converter in the Oliver. Wire the new LFP 12v battery to a buss bar, which will also have the original Oliver Solar charge controller, the lead to the 12v side of the Oliver fuse box, and possibly the original 2000watt inverter connected. I plan to tap into the wire harness that goes to the shore power outlet on the curb side with a 30amp pig tail routed to the battery compartment. This I will be able to plug into the Pecron power station's 30amp receptacle.

following

Just remember that if you disconnect the batteries from everything including the solar charge controller you need to disconnect the charge controller first from the solar panels. Or risk damaging the solar charge controller.

We also bought one of these. Good to know it will fit in this compartment. I was always worried about someone taking it in a campground.

Any simple continuity tester would tell you if it is blown. touch the 2 blades and if no tone then blown.

OK this could get a bit long, please bear with me. I have a 2019 LE II that already has the 12v system in it. 340watt solar, a PWM 25v/30amp Zamp controller, 4 12v AGM batteries in parallel(not sure the size), and a 2000 watt Zantrex inverter. My trailer also has the two 30 amp shore power input plugs. One at the front and one at the rear. Hear is my thoughts/plan: 1st- remove the heavy 340 watts of residential solar. 2nd- build a thin aluminum platform over the trailer to mount 8x200watt flex CIGS panels (ea. 31.5VOC/8.64A) in series. Supported by the 8 awning brackets. 3rd-install in tongue box 48V EG-4 3kW AIO inverter/ charger ( https://signaturesolar.com/eg4-3kw-...r2ooEFRdHYEsl9hcu-afUiL7PX8vjfHdggB4q3.VnU9vH ) 4th Two 48V 100AH EG4 WP batteries. This should give me a silent true 3000 watt solar gen. Here is where I need some input. First I would like to keep the rest of the 12v system in place. So to feed the Zamp controller would I be able to feed 20-30 amps of 12-24v through a step down converter from the 48v batteries in place of the 340 watts of original solar panels I removed? Second I would like to use the front 30amp shore power plug as the AC input to the EG4 3kW AIO inverter/ charger and treat the AC output of the inverter as the shore power to the trailer. I understand that the 3kW from the inverter wont equal the 3600watts from a 30A shore power supply (3600watts). The EG4 3kW unit can handle 5kW surges, for starting the air conditioner. Thanks all input welcome Robert

We have 2019 LE2 Hull #466. Trying to find info on the max voltage that the Zamp Controller can handle. I am starting a project to add more solar to the top of the trailer. The panels I'm looking at has (Vmp) Max Power Voltage and (Voc) Open Circuit Voltage. Most charge controllers state to use the Voc numbers when sizing panels to controller. If your total Voc goes over the voltage rating of the controller it is possible to fry the controller. Our Oliver manual only states a 25Volt. No mention of what the original solar panels on the trailer are rated "(Vmp) or (Voc)". The new panels I plan to use in my project have Vmp- 25V +/- 5% and Voc 31.5V +/- 5%. Thanks Robert

I am interested in what ever parts you have for this project. Let me know how much the postage is and how I can send you the $. I will then order the rest of the parts when I need them to finish the project. Thanks Hull#466. My address is MI 49079 Paw Paw

Thank you MountianMan, Mike, and Bill I understand a lot of your responses, and we will probably live with the stock configuration for most of the first year. Most of my points I was trying to make come from having those 3 years to prep for our motorcycle camping. Then I ended up not only putting everything together (one piece at a time), I also modified our popup camper to the point of major modding the axle to make it work with all those choices. Thanks again Robert & Deb

New here so please bear with. Wife and I were camping less than 2 hours from Oliver's factory last Oct. . We had just seen a gentleman camping in an Elite, hull #819. So we called and asked to take a factory tour. Needless to say, we are now in line to get our Elite II in July '22 . We have an appointment to visit in Jan. to spend more time in a showroom model to make final option choices. We have been camping for the last 2 years from our CanAm Spyder motorcycles pulling a Leesure-Lite popup and a modified RT-622 CanAm trailer which we added 200 watts of solar to for power. That allowed us to use a 12v fridge/freezer and a 500 watt LiPO4 solar gen. to run my CPAP and all our electronics. That said, I researched equipment, and followed many forums for almost 3 years to get the most efficient and lightest weight items I could find, and afford. Here's where I am struggling. I would like to upgrade to LiPO4 and solar system in the Elite II, but their options don't seem quite right. Watts of solar to ah of battery storage should be at least two to one, not every day is a sunny day. In other words, their 340 watts solar and 630 AH battery is almost backwards. Also, as much as I would like to have enough battery capacity to run the air conditioner I would rather have a 12v unit, like the Dometic RTX 2000, to be more efficient. The idea of trying to collect enough sun with only 340 watts to replenish the power used on the AC unit and also the loss from converting from DC to AC to run it has me a bit nervous. I am familiar with the brand "Zamp" they have some good products however when trying to get all the power you can from an under sized solar array a MPPT charge controller would be ideal. Again, coming from camping off motorcycles where weight is a major factor, having to step up to 30# LP tanks is hard for me. Unfortunately, with an absorption style fridge, even if you can run it from the onboard electrical system, you will deplete your batteries too fast unless you are on shore power. So, for long term boondocking LP is really the only option. Finding a compressor style fridge would be ideal. Their composting toilet seems ideal for us who like to boondock a lot. I just wish that option included a conversion of the black tank to grey water storage. Sorry if I seem to be only focused on my perceived short comings of what I think is a GREAT camper, or we wouldn't have put down a deposit for one. I have spent a lot of time reading the Mods section of the forum here and I find many are converting stock items to what I have talked about here. Even switching to lithium, it sounds as if you lose the ability to charge while towing unless the new owner installs a DC to DC charger on their own, maybe I missed something. I hope I don't come across as a "Debbie downer" when I say it seems like I will be removing A LOT of $ items to modify to above ideas to get it "just right" for us, as soon as we bring it home from the factory.