Gliddenwoods

I believe I have solved the CO monitor problem. Based on a suggestion I turned my Oliver completely around so the frig, water heater and furance vents are all on the wind leeward side. No CO monitor alarms since. Regarding wind entering via the frig vent. I would appreciate feedback from all who read this whether this is normal on all other Oliver frigs when windy; please reply. Thank-you.

I have had over 48 hours of very high winds and some rainstorms in New Mexico and SW Oklahoma. During this time I have had many CO (not propane) monitor warnings go on and then again an hour or so later. This has never happen before the wind/rain storm while traveling for the past four weeks. The wind is blowing so very hard on the frig side (frig on AC) that wind is entering the trailer via the frig above the frig door. Any thoughts on what is going on?

Good point SeaDawg, will do so. I just went into the FIY fix-it mode. Thanks.

Thanks John....the flush wand is ordered.

I may have to replace my electric water heater element. I have watch a Youtube on the process and it looks straightforward enough. However any advice and/or cautions from those with experience would be welcomed. Thanks.

UPDATE We now have power. The belief is that the 8 inches of wet Arizona snow the day before we arrived forced moisture into the Park pole outlet causing the surge protectors to signal reverse polarity. However not sure why the internal Oliver surge protector (why working by not allowing power in) did not give me an error code.

Responses: *Oliver worked fine at previous campgrounds. *Used adapter on 15 amp outlet and surge protector showed same error. So it's the post...?

Frank C...correction was 121, not 125.

Frank C...Progressive display same as yours. Mossey....no

I plugged in a "watch dog" post surge protector and got a "E-5" which means "Line & Neutral Reverse" If I turn off (bypass) the Oliver surge protector and not use the Watch Dog surge protector with this post will I cause damage?

Advice sought. The surge protector "clunks" when trailer plug in and we can not get 120 from the park. The error code is E 0; "normal". Running batteries system OK. Any thoughts on what is wrong and how to correct? Thanks.

Yes Tim it is just "simply plug & play". The cable with the unit is 15ft long. (Important note: You can not add on the additional 15ft cable that Zamp sells as it is too small wire gage.) Yes this with assist my rooftop panels in general and particularly when in shade and a sunny spot is within 15ft.

I recently purchased the Zamp 230W (Item USP1004) portable solar panel directly from Zamp at a good price and not directly from Oliver. In preparation of a trip departure of next week I decided to do a test run. I have discovered that the Zamp exterior port on the exterior of my 2022 Oliver (photo #2) has a "rounded" top of the entry opening while the cable that comes with the Zamp solar panel (photo #1) has a "square" top; thus no connection possible. FYI: If you purchase the Zamp solar panel Item USP1004 you must also order Zamp cable Item ITC3018 to make the connection with the Zamp port on the side of the Oliver...at least so on hull 1242. Not a big deal with a cost of only $19, but good to know before you are at the campsite... Be well.

I have the 2019 F150 with same engine, tow package and axle ratio. I tow an O Elite 2. I get approx 14 mpg.

Bill, Thanks for input. So if I do what you suggest (I will have to jack up because I can not move it right now) and the leak stops (the bead is out) I assume another bead may just get in there again? I was able to get the TireMinder transmitter cap on the two leaking stems (at the correct PSI) and stop the leak. So.....I should just leave it alone for now until I have to take the transmitter cap off again in the future? I travel with a portable air compressor so why mess with it now? Just deal with it when I must. Does that make sense? Again, thanks for your thoughts.

Could I just replace the valve stems with new valve stems to resolve the problems?

I just installed the TireMinder i10 on my 2022 Oliver which was straightforward enough; however now two of four tires have leaking (stuck) stem valves! I managed to screw all the transmitters on so the leaks are stopped and the tire pressure is at the planned 55 psi. Questions: Is this a common problem/result of installing this product? I assume I need to install (learn how to) some new valve stems and not some how fix? Any recommendations on brand or model for new stems? Install method advise? I have Cooper Tires "Discover HT3" tires as equipped by the factory. Thanks for any advise.

Tim W I resolved this by reading and better understanding. The RVC is the first step when the battery shuts down because it has discharge to a low state. However the "R" is for "reserve" which means the batteries still have enough charge to do some tasks to get you going; such as raise the three jacks. You just need to push the on buttons on the batteries to access the "reserve". The LVC is an even lower charge than the RVC and means the batteries are done until recharged again. The RVC saves you & the LVC means show over.

Poorly stated and should be toned down...but correct.

Mike & Carol. Just an hour (small world that you just posted your location there) I made a reservation there for 2/24/23 during my route west. Only site remaining was #23; only one night so site condition is not a real concern. However, any other thoughts/recommendations for our brief stay? Thanks. And Happy New Year all!

Morning "Hobo" & "QuestionMark", Do you have the 3,000 or 6,000 lb model? If you have the smaller of the two do you have enough maximum reach? If you could do it over would you buy the larger model for greater maximum reach in uneven terrain situations? Thanks for your thoughts in advance.

Hello "Lost..." I recently remodeled (lowered the floor) my garage and installed a new 10' door for my O-2; works great. Search for my project pictures under Gliddenwoods.

I recently had a ceramic coating applied to my Oliver. Because of cold and wet (Wisconsin) Fall weather we made a decision to leave the trailer in the ceramic owner's garage (heated & dry) for a bit over another week and a half to insure good ceramic curing time before the hour drive back to my heated garage. Because the original plan was for a much short stay in his business garage I did not turn off my batteries (as in "short term storage") as recommended by Lithionics. When I went I to bring my Oliver home the lithium batteries' discharge current had been disabled by the "BMS Function". There are two BMS functions which will disable the Lithionics Lithium batteries; "Reserve Voltage Cutoff" (RVC) and Low Voltage Cutoff" (LVC). See page 183 of the 2022 "Optional Features Component Manuals" which is page 9 of 11 of the Lithionics Lithium Batteries manual to read the explanations of RVC and LVC. So.....my question to those who are better informed than me is how does one determine whether the batteries are in RVC or LVC? Both BMS function disable the current discharge so the situation appears the same. However depending on RVC or LVC how to address the situation is different. So, restating my question with a battery with the current discharge disable how does ine determine RVC or LVC? Thanks.

Could you please share a photo of this technique? Thanks.

Chukarhunter Thanks for the good information. I previously considered installing an air return vent in the bathroom but will do so now for sure. Question. How did you "seal and insulate" the battery door (also on my to-do list)? Same for storage door? Thanks.