Gliddenwoods

Fritz, could you describe (or better yet share a picture) how dark the black film dims the bright white light? I want to dim but still have it a functional & usable outside light when required. Thanks.

Moderator+ ScubaRx Posted yesterday at 12:14 PM These are the best deal I found and it took me a couple of years to find them. They are solid stainless steel. No outer sheath. Seat is perfect and they look great. $3.67 each. ScubaRx, are these lug nuts correct for a 2022 LE II? Or does it not matter which model and/or year? Thanks.

FYI...I am from rural Wisconsin and I own a traditional three generation family rifle. Numerous whitetail deer are shot on my property every year. However the gun topic and killing (even of children!) in this Country is out of control. A recreational travel trailer website should not include guns of any sort. I encourage the Moderators of the website not allow gun discussions on the site because even tho the narrative is not "political" the photos are with no words

What does this have to do about Oliver Travel Trailers? Why on this site?

I agree with this suggestion and also recommend it. I would add "med-skill weekend warrior" skill items also in addition to "low skill level" items.

Following our first substantial (approx. 6,000 miles) road trip with our 2022 Oliver the Andersen Weight Distribution/Sway Control Hitch began making noise. Following a communication with Andersen they quickly sent a new friction cone at no cost under the lifetime warranty. Upon receipt of the new friction cone it was apparent that the old damaged friction cone was not going to come out as removal was impossible. Another phone call with Andersen, the same day as receiving the friction cone, Andersen committed to send a new hitch (again at no cost under the lifetime warranty) via three day UPS delivery. The replacement hitch arrived today and installation is complete and all is well. This post is NOT a complaint regarding the Andersen Weight Distribution/Sway Control Hitch. This post is to publicly recognize & share the quality and timely customer service of Andersen. I have share my thoughts and thank-you with Andersen.

Looks like a potential future project. Could you please share some additional information on the materials, caulk and construction process? Also what you would do different if you had known. Thanks.

John, I spoke with Mike at Oliver and he also states that there is no real offical fix. However we did discuss some wind blockage unoffical options. Could you please share a photo of your fix as I am finding it difficult to fully understand it. It would be most appreciated. Thank-you.

I also have alot of wind entering my Oliver at the frig. Sounds like this topic was brought to Oliver's attention by others; was a solution found?

I believe I have solved the CO monitor problem. Based on a suggestion I turned my Oliver completely around so the frig, water heater and furance vents are all on the wind leeward side. No CO monitor alarms since. Regarding wind entering via the frig vent. I would appreciate feedback from all who read this whether this is normal on all other Oliver frigs when windy; please reply. Thank-you.

I have had over 48 hours of very high winds and some rainstorms in New Mexico and SW Oklahoma. During this time I have had many CO (not propane) monitor warnings go on and then again an hour or so later. This has never happen before the wind/rain storm while traveling for the past four weeks. The wind is blowing so very hard on the frig side (frig on AC) that wind is entering the trailer via the frig above the frig door. Any thoughts on what is going on?

Good point SeaDawg, will do so. I just went into the FIY fix-it mode. Thanks.

Thanks John....the flush wand is ordered.

I may have to replace my electric water heater element. I have watch a Youtube on the process and it looks straightforward enough. However any advice and/or cautions from those with experience would be welcomed. Thanks.

UPDATE We now have power. The belief is that the 8 inches of wet Arizona snow the day before we arrived forced moisture into the Park pole outlet causing the surge protectors to signal reverse polarity. However not sure why the internal Oliver surge protector (why working by not allowing power in) did not give me an error code.

Responses: *Oliver worked fine at previous campgrounds. *Used adapter on 15 amp outlet and surge protector showed same error. So it's the post...?

Frank C...correction was 121, not 125.

Frank C...Progressive display same as yours. Mossey....no

I plugged in a "watch dog" post surge protector and got a "E-5" which means "Line & Neutral Reverse" If I turn off (bypass) the Oliver surge protector and not use the Watch Dog surge protector with this post will I cause damage?

Advice sought. The surge protector "clunks" when trailer plug in and we can not get 120 from the park. The error code is E 0; "normal". Running batteries system OK. Any thoughts on what is wrong and how to correct? Thanks.

Yes Tim it is just "simply plug & play". The cable with the unit is 15ft long. (Important note: You can not add on the additional 15ft cable that Zamp sells as it is too small wire gage.) Yes this with assist my rooftop panels in general and particularly when in shade and a sunny spot is within 15ft.

I recently purchased the Zamp 230W (Item USP1004) portable solar panel directly from Zamp at a good price and not directly from Oliver. In preparation of a trip departure of next week I decided to do a test run. I have discovered that the Zamp exterior port on the exterior of my 2022 Oliver (photo #2) has a "rounded" top of the entry opening while the cable that comes with the Zamp solar panel (photo #1) has a "square" top; thus no connection possible. FYI: If you purchase the Zamp solar panel Item USP1004 you must also order Zamp cable Item ITC3018 to make the connection with the Zamp port on the side of the Oliver...at least so on hull 1242. Not a big deal with a cost of only $19, but good to know before you are at the campsite... Be well.

I have the 2019 F150 with same engine, tow package and axle ratio. I tow an O Elite 2. I get approx 14 mpg.

Bill, Thanks for input. So if I do what you suggest (I will have to jack up because I can not move it right now) and the leak stops (the bead is out) I assume another bead may just get in there again? I was able to get the TireMinder transmitter cap on the two leaking stems (at the correct PSI) and stop the leak. So.....I should just leave it alone for now until I have to take the transmitter cap off again in the future? I travel with a portable air compressor so why mess with it now? Just deal with it when I must. Does that make sense? Again, thanks for your thoughts.

Could I just replace the valve stems with new valve stems to resolve the problems?