John E Davies
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Posts posted by John E Davies
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If the grey tank has filled to the top AND the travel (isolation) valve is OPEN, the soapy water will back up into the shower pan where you can see it. You can tell when this happens in the dark because your socks get soaked followed by lots of swearing... ;( Conversely, if the valve is closed, there is no way for the water (or air) to get into the shower, so then the kitchen sink will back up. There is no other place for the water to go....
Pull the handle forward if you haven’t already, but be prepared for the shower pan to partially fill as the kitchen sink empties.
If you are not at a place where you can empty the tank(s), you can dump a few gallons of grey water into a five gallon bucket or jerry can, and carry it to a waste water disposal drain or even a toilet, though the latter is frowned upon in most places. Even primitive campsites often have a place you can dump your “dish water”, but not an entire tank. If you haven’t learned how to do this yet, add it to your “Honey Teach Me How” list....
Where are you staying? Some western primitive sites “may” allow disposal of grey water by letting it trickle out overnight through a garden hose run under a nearby bush. Always check!
John Davies
Spokane WA
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[postquote quote=175318][/postquote]
Thanks, which model is yours, and if you don’t have one, did you consider the FX4? Pictures would be appreciated.
The rear e-locker is lame, and there isn’t really any suspension articulation, but I really like the rest of the vehicle. The locker can be upgraded easily enough..... I wish manufacturers would offer these full sized SUVs in a serious off road Power Raptor Wagon version. I know the pickups are probably a better choice, but I don’t want or need an open bed. There’s a new Bronco coming soon, but that will be a midsized dirt toy with no real towing ability....
Darn it.....
John Davies
Spokane WA
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Good luck.
John Davies
Spokane WA
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The 4200 is plenty strong for using with big self tapping screws, it is an extremely tenacious adhesive. But it is NOT a caulk, it is designed as a bedding compound, with a full layer underneath the entire bracket foot. Just using it around the perimeter of a dry mounted bracket would have little strength.
I would caution to not use rivnuts in fiberglass, it is not a very good method unless there is a metal backing plate. A rivnut relies on the friction between the “teeth” on the swelled part and the material it is connected to, to keep it from turning. Fiberglass is not strong enough to resist that twisting effect. If you over-tighten the screw, the rivnut may spin, and then YOU are screwed. You have to drill off the head, rip the rivnut out, and then patch the nasty hole....
These fasteners would probably be a good choice.... https://www.pointsunknown.com/blog/2016/10/lessons-learned-rivnuts-vs-plusnuts/
I think the panel would shear off from the brackets if you ran into a tree branch, regardless of how you have the feet attached. But that is something I would not like to experience.
Soooooo, how does Oliver mount theirs? Does anybody know? They can’t use nuts on the back side since you could never reach them. They must have an aluminum plate under there.
John Davies
Spokane WA
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I think those brackets would be fine, but personally I would choose 3M 4200FC Marine adhesive/ sealant and large stainless screws to mount them to the roof (fully bed the brackets on a layer of sealant and also cover the screw heads after tightening). The RV (Dicor self leveling?) sealant they show in the second pic is barely acceptable and it requires constant vigilance and occasional renewal when it starts to fail... why not use a forever trouble-free mounting method? Be very aware of the instruction cautions. .... https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/company-us/all-3m-products/~/3M-Marine-Adhesive-Sealant-Fast-Cure-4200FC/?N=5002385+3291170224&rt=rud
Drill the knobs and secure them closed with nylon wire ties, they will loosen, just like the ones on your main panel. Good luck and post pics.
John Davies
Spokane WA
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KWR, you can use your trailer without an electrical hookup. I never bother plugging in when power is available, unless it is stinky hot and I want to run the air conditioner. Try it, it is one less thing to fuss with when you arrive and leave. That is why the solar option is there, to free you from that cumbersome umbilical cord. The only exception is if you are parked in shade or the days are short.
Since you have a port on your trailer, you can plug in an external panel directly, as long as it isn’t bigger than about 130 watts and has its own built in controller. The Furion port connector is limited to 10 amps. I think the Zamp port can carry more current but I am not sure. The port is wired directly to your batteries, it is independent of your onboard system. You don’t need any more batteries, your system is perfect as is.
A portable panel can be moved around and aimed as needed to stay in the sun, so you can park under a tree in hot weather to reduce the solar heat gain. Down sides include cost, you need a place to store it and any extension cables in your tow vehicle, and it might get stolen if left unattended. You can use a cable lock around a tree but that is easily defeated. The folding “suitcase” units are more compact than the single panel versions, and usually come with a padded case. The roll-up flexible solar blankets used by overland vehicles are super light and compact but uber expensive.
Most people who travel with a generator to run the air conditioner don’t bother to have an extra solar panel, since you can run it for an hour or two and have fully charged batteries. I don’t plan to buy one in the foreseeable future, but I like this one, it is only 20”x 27” x 3” when folded. ..... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079JVBVL3/?coliid=IQOA7UNUKCHSA&colid=1X5H11EH41351&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it
John Davies
Spokane WA
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Just keep in mind, the more stuff you hang up top, the harder it is to get up there to clean and wax the roof and service stuff like the air conditioner. With a single big factory installed panel, you can unbolt the curb side, install a set of extension bars, and tilt it WAY up so you can easily crawl all over the roof on a foam pad. The awning keeps you from sliding off... if you have two awnings this won’t work since there isn’t enough clearance to get the panel high enough.
I personally think on this compact trailer that a big remote solar panel makes more sense, one you can move with the sun and use when the trailer is shaded.
John Davies
Spokane WA
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Cool, that is the 8,5” model, correct? What kind of batteries and how do you change them and adjust the time?
Does it tick?
I much prefer analog timepieces.
John Davies
Spokane Was
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Rust happens only at the hitch, spray with paint every now and then, and on the suspension and axles, due to rock strikes degrading the paint. All hull hardware and metal parts like grab bar and latches are marine grade stainless, and they won’t rust.
The aluminum parts (roof top brackets, racks) and the frame won’t rust, but the frame will definitely corrode if you tow in winter over deicer coated streets. My trailer stays parked December through March because of this.
Remember that any leaks will just dribble out the hull’s bottom weep holes, there are no structural components inside that can absorb water and rot. The only wood is in the galley cabinetry, and that isn’t in the way of any intruding water, except for a leaky faucet, which could cause some wood damage.
If you see a puddle under the trailer, if it isn’t condensate from the AC on the roof, investigate and fix it promptly, but don’t worry about the integrity of the trailer. It is fairly bulletproof.
The window seals can leak during downpours if their weep holes are blocked, some folks install self-stick gutters. I haven’t bothered because I live in an arid climate and “Mouse” is stored indoors.
For your entertainment, here is a picture of a leek.
Here is a picture of brake lust.
No rust on dem brakes! Have a nice day.
John Davies
Spokane WA
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[postquote quote=149881][/postquote]
Any updates on your Expedition? The Fast Lane has a tow test video and it scored highest of ALL SUVs they have reviewed.
I actually like it a lot, I usually am not attracted to any Ford products. What are your thoughts on the rear suspension and have you ever felt you needed more ground clearance? There are inexpensive aftermarket kits to add a few inches. I think it looks terrific....
I think Ford has really nailed the towing features of their newest pickups and the Expedition/ Navigator. Abundant turbo power and ten speeds, woohoo!
John Davies
Spokane WA
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[postquote quote=174927][/postquote]
No outside vents needed, it vents into the cabin.
John Davies
Spokane WA
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I would love to ditch the dirt-eating propane fridge, one thing that is holding me back is the exterior vents. I would really like to blank them off so that there are no openings whatsoever, I am not sure about the cleanest way to do that. A glassed in set of patches with new gelcoat would be best, but I don’t know how it would turn out and the cost....... it could look terrible if done poorly.... any ideas? Take it to Hohenwald?
Overland, please post a pic of the entry area of your rig, I want to see how it looks.
How much room is left between the back of the compressor fridge and the hull? If significant you could leave the covers in place and haul contraband in there.... ;)
Thanks,
John Davies
Spokane WA
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You don’t need to waste your money on the Andersen hitch with your heavy duty truck. This has been discussed just about every other day, please browse back through the Towing forum.
Which Ollie are you looking at? If the small one, you would need to keep looking in the mirror to remind yourself it was hooked up.
John Davies
Spokane WA
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In honor of Flag Day....
Bought this HD telescoping adjustable 22 ft flagpole, which comes with a 3x5 US flag: ... https://polesandholders.com/PNH-22-Deluxe-**NEW**-and-MOST-Popular-Flag-Pole-p206298627
And built a holder for my cargo tray, which is now mounted in back.
The ID of the tube is larger than the pole OD, so I wrapped the pole in vinyl tape (0.015" thick) The pole can be lowered to around rooftop height if you don't want the flag or art to be in the upper atmosphere. Stored in its carry bag the package is around 4 ft long and fits in the closet.
EDIT 12/19/19:
Tube ID: 2.065”
Pole OD: 1.855”
Clearance 0.210”
The spinner shown is 6 ft long with a 3 ft harness, from here: https://www.gkites.com/store/
I haven't actually flown the flag yet, but I can attach it at the top and hang wind art below it.
I plan to put a socket in the ground in my front yard, so I can fly stuff from this pole and not have a permanent installation, which my HOA does not like, for some reason...
John Davies
Spokane WA
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If dust intrusion is a worry, I am not sure any pickup based truck will be satisfactory, the beds are not designed with that in mind. I installed tailgate seals on my 06 Ram and tried to seal up the bed and canopy holes, but it always leaked because it is a low pressure area and just sucks dirt in.... One reason I like towing with a HD SUV is how clean everything inside stays.
If you require a really large payload, about all you could do is buy a used Excursion or a new one.... https://www.detroitnews.com/story/business/autos/ford/2019/04/30/ford-excursion-cult-refuses-to-let-excessive-suv-go-extinct/3573249002/
Is a 2019 Expedition too small? Access is easy with the extra side doors and you could remove the back seats entirely for more volume and payload. It is a real looker, has a good truck drivetrain, and with the 3.5 Eco Boost it is plenty strong for an Elite II. The FX4 offroad package is very impressive - add an aftermarket lift kit if you need extra clearance.
I love my Land Cruiser, but sometimes wish they made a longer version.... it’s usually crammed full with dogs and gear on long trips.
John Davies
Spokane WA
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Since it is on the roof, take no shortcuts, use this... https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/company-us/all-3m-products/~/3M-Marine-Adhesive-Sealant-4000-UV/?N=5002385+3293242579&rt=rud
Read and carefully follow the instructions, especially the initial surface prep. The 4000 sealant allows future removal and cures fast. Don’t use 4200, that is permanent, like for joining a boat deck to a hull.
John Davies
Spokane WA
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That is great customer service.
I noticed that the hardware on your old one is rusting, you might consider replacing the new ones with stainless..... that looks like a design weakness.
John Davies
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Mark, what happened to your Garmin? I have had quite a few over the years, they get obsolete, battery worn out, lost, stolen, or gifted, but I have never had one simply die. Even with a dead battery that one would still operate perfectly when plugged in.
A caution about using printed resources, unlike the better online ones that send out updates several times a month ,your book is obsolete after a season or two at most due to publishing errors that go unseen, and simple changes in campsite operation. One favorite lake near me (a BLM reservoir) just shut down overnight camping in a bunch of remote lakeside clearings due to abuse. I reported the change to Ultimate Campgrounds and the new info was available a week later in their database update. A COE campground was shut down due to a major landslide and I reported that one months before the highway department got around to altering the sign out on the highway...
There should be a rule about posting links to way cool navigation apps that are Android only.... I spent five minutes at OnX before realizing my iPad wouldn’t run it....
John Davies
Spokane WA
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I can't comment on boondocking in the East except that it is extremely limited. Nearly all the public land is out West. You can't just stop somewhere at random and cross your fingers. You need maps.
Start with Ultimate Campgrounds - it lists most public camping sites and has clickable links so you can access webpages and get site info (requires a cell signal and data plan). http://www.ultimatecampgrounds.com
Unfortunately it doesn't have very complete maps, though it did recently get the very nice Google Terrain Maps, so you don't know what is private and what is accessible. Even if you are in a National Forest, you might find yourself in one with checkerboard ownership - scattered blocks of private land embedded within the federal land. The Premium membership of this app works great. You can layer all sorts of info over base maps, for example forest MVUM (motor vehicle use maps) and public land ownership on top of topo or NFS maps, or on top of the wonderful National Geographic Trail Maps.
Combine it with an iPad or similar tablet and you have a great way to get around in the boonies. It is pretty hard to use well on a phone.,,, Some map types are downloadable, so when the cell signal fades away you can still figure where you are going, if you took the time to preload the map data onto your device. If you plan to buy a device, get the largest drive offered because map files are huge depending on the zoom levels; some are several GB. I have over 45 GB of maps on my iPad Mini 4.
There is a ton of info available, you need to do some reading and watching videos. You need to learn about two separate things: overland navigation and RV boondocking. The subjects overlap but they are NOT the same thing. Expedition Portal is a great start. And this has a discount code for Gaia:
http://www.lifestyleoverland.com/this-is-the-best-outdoor-navigation-app-ever/
You always should have a paper backup map, I strongly recommend the Benchmark state atlases for out west. They are really nice. You can buy a digital version, but IMHO if you are miles back in the desert or forest and your car nav system shows a big grey blank, you need a paper backup in case your other device dies. .. https://www.benchmarkmaps.com/atlases
John Davies
Spokane WA
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Leaving them on while towing puts your through-hull fittings at risk from road debris like a tire carcass or piece of wood.....
If you have trailer mudflaps, never mind my comment.
John Davies
Spokane WA
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You haven’t provided enough info for us to judge..... https://www.holidayfordusa.com/blogs/2548/uncategorized/ford-f-150-towing-capacities-by-engine/
Ratings change yearly, so research your particular truck. They are also significantly affected by added accessories (bumpers, racks, canopies), oversized tires, external cargo, etc. If yours is borderline for a 6000 pound towed load, a rating below 8000 pounds, you will probably be fine to start out. You can always swap out the ring and pinion(s) later if you feel it is struggling on high elevation grades in summer heat.... That takes way less cash than buying a replacement truck. Other than forced induction, that is the single best mod to gain lots of power.
If your truck is tired, lacking power and payload, AND without modern towing aids, consider a newer one since they are so much better and safer at the job. Or better yet a HD model.
Please go to your personal forum page, click the gear in the upper right corner and fill out your profile, including a signature with your truck and Ollie info.
John Davies
Spokane WA
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While I haven’t experienced any sway with my elite 2, I went with the Hayes swaymaster, Just for the added safety factor, and for approximately 2 years and 26,000 miles i’m very happy with its performance.
Steve, I’m glad you are happy with that safety aid, but other than your extra peace of mind on gusty days, is there some other benefit? I am a bit hazy about how you can even be aware of its performance when the trailer doesn’t need it. Have you tried “before and after” tow comparison tests?
Thanks.
John Davies
Spokane WA
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FWIW, the Parts folks at Oliver (they have a ticketing system) got back to me and it looks like their prices for replacements are lower than anything I found online.
What was their price for a pin including shipping? Specs for a 3” grip length pin with lanyard ....https://www.mcmaster.com/94748a434
BTW I try to make a habit of never inserting one pin without immediately ensuring that the second one is in place, and I always do a trailer walk around before departing every stop and double check to make sure some vandal did not remove one for fun (I also check cargo, TPMS senders, hitch and cables the same way.)
Those members who needed a new pin.... did you screw up or did it fail in some way? The ball detent mechanism is a weak point, and it can clog up with grit. You can flush them out with brake cleaner or preferably a dry lubricant or silicone spray.
John Davies
Spokane WA
Dexter ez flex
in General Discussion
Posted
Mark, I don’t know of any Ollie that has a different type suspension..... the EZ Flex was an option for a while, but it is way superior to the standard junk trailer shackles and plastic bushings, so now it is standard equipment. Yay!
The problem is that there is no travel, you have maybe THREE inches total, and only 1.5 inches up travel, before the ubolts slam hard into the steel subframe. That is fine for well maintained asphalt, but a single deep pothole, or a rough dirt road, soon demonstrates how poor this is. Wham bam, thank you mam, the trailer will get really beat up and it can wreck tires and wheels unless you slow way down.
A fancy independent off road a-arm suspension (like the Black Series trailers) with coil springs or airbags is way superior when the road turns bad, but it is also prohibitively expensive since most buyers won’t pay the big premium for a niche feature. It also can be tippy on the highway if it doesn’t have anti-roll bars...plus it does not have “load equalizing” between axles so you need really stout tires and wheels.
A compromise that has been discussed (and which IMHO should be STANDARD ON ALL OLLIES) is to switch to a spring over axle configuration,
which gets you a ton of room between the frame and axle, but that will get the trailer way too high off the ground, it looks dumb and it would very unstable. So you change the axles to a 4” (or 2”) drop version, which has a dogleg that positions the axle stub above the tube, effectively lowering the frame back down.
[attachment file=A9BE9506-0D50-46D1-B2B2-655AC563E315.jpeg]
Now you have a stock height (or 2 inch lifted height) trailer, with a bunch of room so you can install rubber bump stops to prevent the springs from over traveling, which can break them, but just as importantly, to provide a gentle, progressive slowing of the upward motion. No more banging.
Easy peasy, it would be much more refined, and would only cost a few dollars more for the four bump stops..... spring over axle assemblies can be ordered from the supplier, no welding or reworking needed....
John Davies
Spokane WA