John E Davies
-
Posts
5,759 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
243
Posts posted by John E Davies
-
-
I know nothing about these batteries.... do they have a thermal runaway fire risk like conventional lithium battery packs? If not, how is this prevented?
I would really be interested in this mod, but I would most likely wait a few years until my AGM batteries get tired, I win the lottery, or the price drops significantly.
Thanks,
John Davies
Spokane WA
-
4
-
-
Alternator went out in the Kia or I would be on my way to look at a F150 with towing package. It just turned 80,000 miles – he said this was road miles as he travels back and forth from Guyton, Ga. to Atlanta for work. He said it tows up to 11,000 lbs. He wants $31,500 for it. That is all the info I have and will go look at it when the Kia is repaired. Oh, this is not from a dealer, but from someone a good friend of mine goes to church with. I forgot to ask what year it was, but he said he has pulled his 32′ camper with it and had no problems..
Nan, try to find out how many of those 80K miles were towing. A 32 ft trailer is a heavy load, maybe as much as 10,000 pounds, and that is a lot of stress on any light duty truck. If he has maintenance records showing all the servicing, along with extra fluid changes for the transmission and axles, that is a big plus. A transferable extended warranty is a BIG plus. Good luck.
John Davies
Spokane WA
-
John, I bet that just grinding off the tread on that plate might have been enough, rather than having to cut it. I’m curious what you used to grind those treads, btw – and how you got a perfectly straight edge on it.
I did try to get the plate back after removing the diamonds, but it would not slide in freely. I could have beat it in, but I really wanted there to be a ton of clearance.
Here is how I ground off the nubs, using a 3 inch hand belt sander, a Sharpie and a clamped on guide. It came out really flat since I kept putting the black ink on it to show the high spots. I did prime it heavily before installing it.
http://olivertraveltrailers.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/IMG_7927.jpg
John Davies
Spokane WA
-
1
-
-
Mine was also tight against the fiberglass. It popped a decent chip out of the gelcoat on the curb side during our first trip, which Oliver repaired perfectly. We haven’t had any problems since then – I’d have to check to see if it’s still tight or if they made some adjustment.
Was the cover the cause, or did the chip occur when they removed the cover for another reason?
Thanks,
John Davies
Spokane WA
-
My question here is why? I’ve owned an Oliver for over 11 years and have NEVER found a need to remove this panel.
It's a crummy design. The hull is supposed to be separated from the frame by rubber cushions. It is supposed to "float". With it pinched hard in back in two small spots, the twisting stresses go directly into the fiberglass. Imagine slamming the frame hard onto the pavement as I have done.... all that energy is violently transmitted directly into the glass. Even if you don't smack the frame, there is destructive grinding going on there all the time. It takes a LOT of pressure to do this:
[attachment file=IMG_7925 cropped.jpg]
It is supposed to be an easily removed access panel, which it isn't. Overland had screwed-up gelcoat. Luckily mine did not chip. I wonder how they do the removal at the factory? I wonder why nobody there thought this might not be a good thing?
BUT ... are they all installed this way or just a handful? With only a couple of data points you can't come to any meaningful conclusions. Do you remember the missing inverter ground cable problem? That is why folks need to look and see what is going on with their own hull.
John Davies
Spokane WA
-
I am not committed to getting the RockStar over another brand. The “heat shield” on the RockStar got my attention and sent me down the path of looking at alternatives for a side discharge on the exhaust. I love everything about the truck except that darn exhaust pipe.I value your input on the design flaws you saw in the RockStar and what swayed you to purchase the Rock Tamers.Hey Randy. As I said, they look really cool but IMHO the engineering leaves a lot to be desired. Watch this RockStar video first....Now, notice how they keep talking about how the flaps won't sail? They seem to think that is a good idea. Their rubber panels go almost all the way to the ground. All the rocks hit the vertical front face and ricochet straight back at the underside of the truck. That causes lots of noise and it chips away at your rocker panels and suspension, and if stones can escape the gap between the flaps and the bumper the stones will end up bonking the tailgate. If you are on gravel and you hit a dip, the flap will drag and throw up a huge roostertail of stones, straight back.The Rock Tamers are adjustable, you can set the angle. You WANT them to sail, they should run at a 30 degree or greater angle at higher speeds so that stones shooting off the TV tires hit the rubber, get their energy depleted and bounce down onto the road. NOT directly back at the truck. The US instructions do not mention this, but the Australian supplemental instructions definitely do. .... http://www.clearviewmirrors.com.au/pdf/RT_MANUAL.pdfThe RS bracket is very vulnerable. If you should jackknife you will smash it between bumper and trailer frame. I bet it is pricey and bulky to ship.The RT is also vulnerable but swapping a new tubular arm in would be much easier and you could carry a spare easily.If you want to remove the RS in the middle of your trip you have to deal with a huge assembly including the weight of the ball and mount.... Where do put it? With the RT you loosen the clamp bolts, slide out the flaps and arms, and stick them in a big trash bag in the bed of your truck. They take up minimal space in your garage too.The RS is at an advantage in terms of stability, the top lip rests on the bumper in a couple of places. Whether that will cause damage to the bumper long term, I dunno. The RT does not touch the bumper. It will move with the ball mount. A $20 slopper stopper will stop any motion.If rocks slipping past the gap onto the rear of the TV is a problem with the RT you can get a mesh insert that covers the gap. I made my own with narrow strips of scrap rubber.RS is way more costly than the RT.It is hard to find anything but five star reviews for the RS, which is suspicious to me; there is a video by a pro bass fisherman extolling their virtues, but his truck and boat have huge RockStar decals and he is on their payroll. So he is hardly unbiased... If I could read some more reviews for the RS I would have a better feel for how they do in the real world.Anyway, I used my Rock Tamers for a year on my Ram 3500, and then did without any extra flaps on my Land Cruiser because they don't fit that truck very well (the receiver is too high). I thought they were OK but far from ideal. The Stone Stomper is head and shoulders above any fixed rubber flaps in terms of protecting the trailer and the back of the truck. ....The only real negative with the SS besides the fact that the Ollie needs custom support brackets under the frame and in the center to support the fabric, is that all the chaos that is channelled underneath the fabric gets blasted back at the frame and suspension. Soooo there needs to be additional flaps to protect those components, unless you don't mind the hidden damage. The hull and A frame of the Ollie are completely protected.BTW, the tire design you choose has an enormous effect on how much stuff is thrown up. A tight tread all-season or all-terrain tread is much more likely to throw large amount of the small diameter stones found on graded gravel roads. I notice a significant difference between my Nokian snow tires and the Nitto Ridge Grapplers I run in summer.I hope this helps. I do ramble on....John DaviesSpokane WA
-
1
-
-
I used a Black and Decker Workmate to hold the cover for easy access. You could probably clamp it down to a table or workbench.
[attachment file=IMG_7926 ALT.jpg]
Cut away the material that extends under the hull, and file the openings smooth. Make sure the openings are large enough that they clear the gelcoat completely. Material will also have to be removed from the top off the 90 degree down bends.
Note that I sanded down the diamond plate on my cover as part of my rear cargo rack installation, yours won't look like this.
Here is what is underneath that cover....
The front of the compartment consists of a bent plate that is screwed to the hull in two places along its upper and lower edges.
I'm not sure exactly how you are supposed to access those bottom ones, but I suspect you would have to drill some small access holes from under the frame to get a screwdriver onto them.
Here are the rivets you will need to reinstall the pin lanyards.
John Davies
Spokane WA
-
The diamond plate cover over the Stinky Hose bay looks as if it would come off easily, but there are problems. This cover has be removed if you need to take out a water tank or perhaps to access stuff at the very back of the inner hull. So it ought to be easily removable.
The big problem is that during the build, the cover is installed onto the frame, then the hull is lowered down and bolted in place. On "Mouse" the cover was trapped hard between those two pieces. Please get a strong light and closely inspect your cover! If it is NOT pinched as mine (Hull 218) was, please comment below and also post a picture so we can see what is different. I have notified Service of this situation.
First the bumper has to come off. Remove the two huge hinge bolts and carefully lower it to the ground, it is fairly heavy. Hopefully the nuts will come off - one of mine seized solid since none of the stainless hardware on the trailer has anti-seize compound applied at the factory. Using a two foot breaker bar I kept turning the bolt head until it sheared off at the base of the nut. These bolts are easily sourced locally if you have a problem. Hopefully you won't need to drill off the head of one...,
Drill out the two 3/16" diameter aluminum pop rivets that secure the pin lanyards. Lift off the cover. Wait a minute.... it is locked down tight up front and it FEELS as if nothing short of dynamite is going to get it off. I considered loosening the hull to frame bolts so I could jack up the hull a little, but that would have been a huge job. After much head scratching I finally figured out how...
By applying gentle rearward pressure (pushing forward on the handle) of a big tire iron, while beating the heck out of the cover with a big soft mallet, it should come off. It took about five minutes. Be sure to switch sides often since you have to free up the opposite area too.The cover moves only microscopically after each hit. I was afraid that it would tear out big chucks of gelcoat from under the hull overhang, but the sharp diamond plate ridges just cut their way through it.
What you do not see in the above picture is all the dried up tears I shed trying to figure this out. From a design standpoint, the method this cover was installed is pure garbage. The hull is supposed to float on its rubber pads, not grind away at the rear cover, which could cause stress cracks or worse years from now. Shame on Oliver.
John Davies
Spokane WA
-
1
-
-
The RockStar guard looks very cool but it has a couple of serious design flaws IMHO. Are you committed to buying them? I researched a bunch of options and settled on Rock Tamers as the most effective design, before I graduated to the Stone Stomper.
John Davies
Spokane WA
-
Thanks for the review, I had not seen that one. I used to get Practical Sailor in print years before there was an Internet. Having access to all the digital back issues would be a great benefit. I no longer do more than occasionally paddle a canoe, though it would be tempting to read unbiased reviews about marine products and boats.
John Davies
Spokane WA
-
Thanks, John. No, so far I have not driven any..just dropped by Carmax 2 times and looked through their trucks. I found a couple I sort of liked, but am still looking. Thinking about going to Woody Folsom in Baxley, Ga. and checking them out. They have ALL of the different trucks there. Chevy, Ford, GMC and Toyota in one lot..beats running from dealer to dealer.
OK, here is a strategy. Without driving a truck you have no clue if it is right for you.
Tell the sales droid at that dealership that you want to go on a 20 to 30 minute test drive with FOUR NEW 1500 (light duty) four wheel drive pickups, one from each of those four brands, on a route that includes both side streets and freeway. Tell him you need to get an initial feel for them to see what appeals to you before you can get down to specifics. Ask for a mid- level trim, crew cab, and short bed for each so that they are sort of comparable. Ask for the biggest engine that would be suitable for towing. Drive the exact same route with each truck. Drive them all back to back, then make notes about the your impressions while they are still fresh in your mind.
Be sure to note any big sales discounts on previous year new trucks and don’t ever tell him you might buy off their used lot. Just say you are undecided but wanted to try new trucks. Then take his card, thank him profusely and LEAVE.
Whichever truck you liked best, try to find it as a rental and drive that sucker all over the place over a weekend. Hit the road and go to some cool places, use it as you would if you had an Ollie. After this, you should have enough info to go out and pick something that wll work for towing and most of all, one that you will enjoy driving.
All the major rental agencies have light duty pickups. Finding the brand you want might be harder, they may want to hand you the keys to a Ram rather than the F150 you want. Even if you can’t get the one you liked best, take whatever they have, the general driving experience will be very similar for your weekend test.
Then you can go back and test individual used or new trucks with enough experience to make an informed decision. Then you can decide, light duty or heavy duty, packages, trim level, accessories, etc. This is hard work, but keep a firm hold of any emotions or stresses, and above all enjoy yourself. You can research and stare at trucks day after day, but until you actually drive one you simply have no clue... the one you arrive back at the lot in, grinning like the village idiot, might be the right choice.
John Davies
Spokane WA
-
1
-
-
Well no offense but you should have told us this last stuff, first; it would have saved a lot of unnecessary conversation... It was sort-of working then made a horrible sound and quit completely. It is toast, pure and simple. It was only a waste to you because it is defective. Put a working one in and you might enjoy it. The unit has a two year warranty,... how old is yours?
John Davies
Spokane WA
-
It may be fried, does it have a nasty smell? Inverters lead a hard life, yours may need to be replaced.
In your shoes, heading out on a huge trip, I would just install a new one, let the RV shop figure out and fix any additional problems. Assuming you can even get an appointment. I think you are at a decision point now.
Are you comfortable installing a new one yourself? After you disconnect the two inverter cables at the battery bank it is a simple and no risk job, 30 minutes maybe. Unbolt three cables, unplug a couple more, four screws and out she comes....
OTH in your shoes I might throw the darned thing in the trash and do without.... mine failed at around 14 months and I got a free replacement. I don’t think these are especially reliable.
Good luck.
John Davies
-
there are two numbers 2000/10,800 lbs. What does the first number mean? The saleslady did not know.
BINGO ! Salespeople know very little about what they sell. An exception might be the manager of the Fleet Sales dept at a new car dealership. Never assume that anybody selling used cars knows anything useful about the vehicle you are sitting in. Their background may include shoes or yard care. There is NO requirement when hiring that they know anything about anything. It is all about the Big Smile, the firm hand shake and grip the shoulder, and empty conversation.
Have you actually driven any trucks? What did you like or dislike about them? Do you have a car nut friend who could go with you?
Buying used will save you money but you pay for it in aggravation, reduced or no warranty, an unknown service history, hidden problems (possibly major) and you have to sit in a cabin that the previous owner sweated smoked and farted on. Buying a brand new truck at a steep sales discount has many advantages, the biggest for a traveller is you can stop at any dealer, say “Fix it under warranty” and drive off to go shopping and then go back to your Ollie in their free loaner car.
John Davies
Spokane WA
-
Nan, when you run into a technical term you don’t understand the quickest way to find an answer is to go to Google and enter the term and “Wikipedia”. For example... Flex fuel Wikipedia gets you to ....
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Flexible-fuel_vehicle
There are other useful places to visit online, the manufacturer website is one, but Wikipedia usually gets you a fast answer. But since it is info added and re-edited by random people it is not 100% accurate.
Carmax is a useful place to shop but their prices are always high. AutoTrader is what I use to find a vehicle at dealers. Treat this whole thing as a great adventure, drive lots of trucks, do NOT be pressured by anyone, ask here, remember that there are a GAZILLION used trucks out there, so you can be patient until you find the one that really appeals to you. Good luck.
John Davies
Spokane WA
-
“Don’t cut the red wire!” Wasn’t that a line in a movie? Mine is not connected to anything, don’t worry about it. You should fold it back on itself and secure it and also secure those loose floppy wires with nylon ties. Any excessive motion while traveling causes chafing and stress on connections and stuff. The earlier hull numbers like yours and mine have less than satisfactory wiring. Buy a big sack of good quality 11 inch nylon ties (not from Harbor Freight or Walmart) and whenever you open a compartment and see wires like that, lash them down. It could prevent future unpleasant electrical issues beside some isolated Yukon backroad....
BTW, where is your inverter located? Later units have it below and behind the pantry, but there are no furnace ducts there, I guess yours is on the right side somewhere?
Good luck and above all, enjoy your big trip.
John Davies
Spokane WA
-
Thanks Bill, cool videos but I am not looking for a homemade solution, but rather a consumer grade gauge for the toolbox at home.
Long ago I had a carpenters water level, which never actually worked. At all. Now I have a laser level. Also I had a mercury manometer which had four glass columns and was perfect for synching four carbs on a motorcycle. You just had to remember not to rev the engine and snap the throttle closed or it would suck all the mercury into the engine. Ahhhhhh the good old days before things got banned.
John Davies
Spokane WA
-
I am thinking about buying one to check the low pressure supply at the propane appliances (downstream from the tank regulator). Any recommendations? I have this one bookmarked...
https://www.amazon.com/Yellow-Jacket-78060-Complete-Test/dp/B0016H12KS/ref=cm_wl_huc_item
Thanks,
John Davies
Spokane WA
-
That is pretty cool. And if you haul this behind your motorhome it can charge itself. Or you could have your big onboard generator running also, with an umbilical to provide even quicker charging.
I am not yet convinced about the truth in their extravagant range claim (400 miles) and I am not sure I would drive one of these on a completely solo back country trip, but as a toad behind a big RV it would be awesome for exploring those primitive high passes and desert byways.
John Davies
Spokane WA
-
Keep the tires harder if you have no TPMS. Keep them harder if you travel a long way at high speed. Keep them harder if you have an Elite, which has a higher tire loading and may be more prone to instability than an Elite II (my opinion only). Increase pressure if your new lower pressure makes the trailer feel less stable. A large pressure change has much more effect as the number gets closer to the recommended minimum value. For example, a change from 80 to 60 is fine. But a change from 50 to 40 is not - work your way lower gradually! If you don’t want to bother with all this, set them at 55 or 60 and just check them every now and then.... IMHO.
The way they are delivered with 80 psi is simply way too high and it will just beat up your expensive trailer. FACT.
Interesting article. Scroll down for more of them from a company that really knows their stuff.
John Davies
Spokane WA
-
Roughing it along the Snake River SW of Pullman WA, NW of Lewiston ID, on the east bank of the river. There is a nice 9 spot county campground a little north of here (Wawaiwai County Park -no hookups $15) but the free dispersed pullouts along the highway a mile south of there are the best. This one is at Granite Point, a granite dike in the horizontal basalt beds that are so typical of this region.
It can be very windy, especially if the direction funnels it along the canyon. There is a train track nearby, we saw two short slow freights in 18 hours. Highway traffic is local, minimal and non-existent at night. There are a few barges making their way along through the locks, and an occasional fisherman. There is a lot of wood debris, sometimes big logs, in these lakes, which are downstream from Hells Canyon .... a sturdy boat is best, like a Duckworth Jet, or you risk prop damage.
Just south of the county park is the rowing center for the Washington State University rowing team. There is a public boat launch there and a viewing area so you can watch the training runs and competitions.
Our spot got lots of sun once it got above the surrounding hills. I got to test my new flagpole and spinner wind art. I’ll post a separate thread about that. I love these COE lake spots.
John Davies
Spokane WA
-
3
-
-
I don’t have many miles on “Mouse” , but have used these Dexter brakes for decades. They don’t usually wear out unless you are really hard on them and don’t use your gearing on descents. What happens is that they get bound up from rust and/ or the seals leak, contaminating the linings. That causes violent locking of the wheel, very distressing. The Nev-R -Adjust system is a joke. The seals are pure Chinese junk.
There is not much you can do for contaminated linings, if that happens you need to replace both brake assemblies on that axle and use the high quality Timken seals to reduce the likelihood of a future leak. I already replaced the front set with a manually adjusting pair, which are dirt cheap, due to a failed seal. If the other ones go before I get around to getting discs, I will do the same for that axle.
I hate electric trailer drum brakes with a passion. Oliver needs to offer an electric over hydraulic disc brake option.
BTW at 24k miles you are way past due for an inspection and bearing repack.
John Davies
Spokane WA
-
2
-
-
I went from 45 to 42 psi and after 300 miles I think I will keep it there. I will check tire temps when I get a stinking hot day. So far the they are fine but the air is cool. I run full fresh tank and am around 6000 pounds, max.
John Davies
Spokane WA
-
1
-
-
You may be OK with the 15amp fuse but I personally would not do it. The outside receptacle is rated at 10 amps max. Your 160 watt panel should connect to a pair of receptacles to share the load. It would be easy enough to add a second circuit and make a heavy gauge splitter cable.
John,
I checked the specs on the Zamp website and found no amperage capacity mentioned. My solar suitcase came with a port compatible connector and has an in line 30 amp fuse. The port is equipped with 10awg wire pigtails so I believe it should have a max ampacity of 30 amps if I remember my code correctly. I installed the 15amp fuse just in case Oliver used smaller wires after the pigtail.
I have a call in to Jason just to make sure I’m not missing something obvious. It didn’t make sense to me to fuse 10awg wire at 10amp when my Uglies Pocket Reference says it can handle 30amp with even the lowest rated insulation.
My oops..... You have a Zamp and I an clueless about that, I assumed it was the Furuno like mine. That one is 10 amps, as stated in its Owners Manual. It sounds like the Zamp is a heavier duty unit. You should be OK but you are smart to verify. It would be good to have a max rating straight from Zamp. In writing.
I think the max load rating has more to do with how much current can be carried between the two pairs of mating pins and their soldered connections, rather than through the wires themselves. For a really secure and reliable heavy circuit, like a winch or just something you want to be close to bulletproof, I would pick Anderson Powerpole connectors. I am a huge fan of them.
John Davies
Spokane WA
2019 Ram 2500 Power Wagon vs 2018, 8 spd vs 6 spd
in Towing an Oliver
Posted
Interesting, the new transmission offers a MUCH lower first gear which really helps the truck launch from a stop, or accelerate a trailer up a freeway on-ramp. Plus the taller 8th gear ratio plus some aero aids really help the mpgs. The Fast Lane guys saw a 25% improvement over their 100 mile test loop. Jaw drops to floor....
https://www.tfltruck.com/2019/05/2019-ram-power-wagon-you-will-be-surprised-how-much-quicker-and-more-efficient-it-is-than-the-previous-generation-video/
I love my Land Cruiser but this truck gets more tempting every time it gets an upgrade.... lighter empty weight, higher payload, much better performance... woohoo.
John Davies
Spokane WA