John E Davies
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Posts posted by John E Davies
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Also do you have to buy a pump to push in the bleach/ off site water? And one final question. Filled the tank with water to start the bleach process. I know it is filled because water running out from under the camper. I have tested releasing the water through gray valve after running the pink stuff out of the faucets and no water will come out. I am on a slight incline on my driveway. Is this the reason or is it because the gray tank is not full? Thanks again for advice.
You need a hand antifreeze pump to apply antifreeze to each of the "extra" water ports, a couple of pumps is enough to inject AF from the gallon jug into the small lines for winterizing. The important port is the right rear, that is your "winterization" suction port, for sucking in antifreeze or choline mixture or fresh water to the tank. Switch the inside valves according to the diagram under the hatch lid and operate the onboard water pump.
https://www.amazon.com/Camco-Antifreeze-Waterlines-Winterizing-36003/dp/B0006IX7YW
I like to put some bleach into a bucket and add water, then suck it into the system, filling the tank, the water heater and all lines. I also inject some bleach solution into each of the other outside ports to sterilize them, using the hand pump, since there is no flow from the tank into them. That is the only way to get the bleach in there. Don't forget to open the outside shower valves and the toilet water valve. You want to get a bleach solution EVERYWHERE in the plumbing system and let it sit several hours. Then drain everything and flush flush flush with tap water until it no longer stinks.
John Davies
Spokane WA
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I only extend a jack if I need to level the trailer, I try very hard to get it positioned flat so that isn't needed. The only time I have felt a need for extra support is when there are very gusty side winds, they will shake the trailer noticeably and it can be irritating.
Try raising the trailer a couple of inches further all around (take more weight off the springs and tires). Make VERY sure your awning is retracted if it is windy.
Or try a pair of these ...
My best suggestion is get used to it, it is a 3 ton trailer not a house, it will never be rock steady.
John Davies
Spokane WA
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Cool, is that Beverly in the above pic? Is she looking at birds, or gators? I hate gators.....
My sister in law lives a little further south, 40 miles west of Orlando. Did I mention I hate gators... ? And water moccasins. But airboats are absolutely SUPER cool.
Happy trails.
John Davies
Spokane WA
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I get these emails and sometimes I get surprised. This latest one shows an Elite in Florida, anybody recognise it?
https://mailchi.mp/campendium/five-star-camping-this-week-032719?e=855059a583
This is not my primary app, I much prefer Ultimate Camprounds USA, but I have found and waypointed a few great spots to boondock just from these emails.
John Davies
Spokane WA
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I agree 100% with both of you and my comments are on the first page of this thread when this was brought up a year back. I am never unarmed, this carbine is not my primary defense tool by any means. Nor is it my primary bear gun. The purpose of the closet lock system is to keep a long gun within close reach, with ammo next to it, in case bad things turn terrible. Perhaps I even have to hike out of the woods. I can leave the closet light on, I can have this gun out, loaded and ready in very little time. It is in NO way blocked in the back of the closet. Cops use these locks daily in their patrol cars and they have proven to be very reliable over decades of use.
If something looked at all sketchy I would remove it ASAP and keep it handy anyway, loaded or even slung over a shoulder. As stated before, this is to keep curious hands off it in case some little kid should wander into my campsite and climb in unaware... it also allows me to transport the gun unloaded in full compliance with WA and other state laws and not have to worry about gun cases and such. Because of the way the Ollie’s closet door is mounted, nobody can see in from outside the trailer.... it is a fairly safe location. Better than under a seat cushion.
It looks cool, tho, I hope you will at least agree about that? You could always lock a brolly in it. LOL. This is not a firearms forum, so we need to understand that there are some members who find this whole subject uncomfortable to talk about. I understand but can’t really sympathize with that viewpoint. I hope those persons will just skip this thread and not get offended.
I started the thread not to talk specifically about firearms or camp protection, but about how to carry a long gun securely in an Oliver. I will provide a link, maybe it will encourage the purchase of at least a couple of large cans of bear spray ... https://geology.com/stories/13/bear-areas/
John Davies
Spokane WA
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Sold my 12 gauge shotgun, it was just getting too brutal for my aging joints.... I readjusted the barrel clamp a little lower and mounted my Kel-Tec SU16C 5.56 carbine. It has a tactical light clamped onto the end - I was able to adjust it and the clamp so that everything fits and the switch at the rear of the light is well protected.
There is still lots of room behind it for the telescoping leaf rake, kite and a brolly.
And here it is ready to travel with an old sock over the business end to keep out spiders and make it less noticeable.
Unlike the shotgun, I can’t bring that carbine into Canada, but I can figure out something legal if I ever actually go there.... my last trip was in 1988.... ;)
John Davies
Spokane WA
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Cool, welcome. What is your tow vehicle? You can add this info to your signature....
My BIL lives in Baytown (and is retired from that chemical plant that keeps catching fire) and is just above flood level, have you been flooded? I have to say that an Ollie with solar, big batteries and composting toilet would make teriffic bug-out vehicle during a disaster.....
John Davies
Spokane WA
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Just make sure you understand, you can only plug the tread area of a tire. You cannot plug a sidewall puncture. If your damage is in the sidewall, it’s spare tire time. This is a great thread. I always have tire plug kits on my ATVs too.
Very true, and a great reason to switch to a tougher LT tire style if you venture even a few times onto forest roads. A true offroad tread is way heavier, stiffer and has more material in the sidewalls to resist cuts. The big downsides are more expense and rolling resistance and worse mileage, and a rougher ride. I really like the Nitto Ridge Grapplers. The upside besides flat resistance is your truck will be the tough looking one in the grocery store parking lot. LOL.
If you have light weight comfy squooshy P-rated passenger car tires at least carry a full sized spare since a sidewall cut is a high possibility. Montana especially seems to like to put sharp 3 inch ballast rock on its forest roads. Once you slash a tire and have to drive two hours to the nearest tire store on a space saver donut tire, you will understand, it is seared deep in your soul, pisses off your navigator and ruins your vacation.
If you are venturing into red rock country like southern UT this is not a big problem since the rocks are rounded and there is usually lots of sand.
John Davies
Spokane WA
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[attachment file=164998]
So, that is a center-off momentary switch, you push it one way to connect and the other way to disconnect - is that how it works?
Do you think you should carry a spare relay since a failed one might totally kill your system? How about a guard of some kind? I kinda like leaving it unlabeled for security reasons, but I think it could easily get bumped by a doggie or human.....
Thanks,
John Davies
Spokane WA
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DavidS, this is a very good one, it is more expensive than the Walmart Slime kind but has all the tools plus a TactiCool zip case. ... https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00EQ1IOS4/?coliid=IU1AGCDTAQVZJ&colid=26R5Z0L5VZEWU&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it
John Davies
Spokane WA
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I am now running 45 psi instead of 60. I am sure it rides less roughly, which is more important to me than cooler temps or less rolling resistance. I did blow out two shocks a year after delivery. I don’t know if my higher running pressure then had anything to do with that. But it could have contibuted. Less sidewall movement increases the load on shocks and springs.
I won’t hesitate to drop the trailer tires to 30 if I have to tow a long way on potholes or washboard. I sometimes air down my Land Cruiser to 25 psi cold, which is about 30 warm. The extra flex really softens the ride for the occupants. But speeds must be kept low or the tires will quickly overheat. You can’t just hop on the highway and drive half an hour to an air pump, it won’t be safe.
BTW my avitar picture is of me squatting down beside my old Series 80 lowering air pressure by installing Staun tire deflators-a very cool tool, worthwhile if you want to do this routinely with minimal time and fuss.
https://www.amazon.com/Staun-Automatic-Tire-Deflators-Standard/dp/B00QBPBLWY
John Davies
Spokane WA
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Million Dollar Highway, northbound from Silverton to Ouray CO, three passes over 11,000 feet. Butt clenching descents and dropoffs. Way cool and I want to go back.
John Davies
Spokane WA
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Somewhere along I-40 west, coming back from TN on the maiden voyage..... This is one reason we decided to call our new Elite II “Mouse”.
No license plate! We towed it bome without even a temporary and did not get noticed.... the gal at Oliver Trailers who was supposed to get the tag forgot. I don’t really recommend this.
John Davies
Spokane WA
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Sherry I called the master lock a "feel good lock" for a couple of reasons. It is cheap and appears to be very secure, so it makes an owner feel good. And a thief with a $50 lock pick gun will see it and feel very good....
https://www.lockpickshop.com/lock-pick-guns.html
Happy trails.
John Davies
Spokane WA
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Hobo, be sure to rig your Rock Tamers as shown, with some built in rear angle.that lets them fly at a 45 degree angle and deflects stones down onto the road instead of straight back at your truck. I also used two “slopper stoppers”, one in front to lock the ball mount to the receiver, and one behind the RT mount to lock that part in place. No movement or rattles whatsoever.
read this.... http://www.clearviewmirrors.com.au/pdf/RT_MANUAL.pdf
These additional adjusting instructions are for Oz, I guess RT does not realize we have unpaved road here is USA.... In all my years of towing I have never seen another one set up like this....
John Davies
Spokane WA
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Sherry, that Master disc lock is a “feel good lock” that is poor quality and easily defeated....
Master locks in general should be avoided since the lock mechanism is junk, unless there is no other option. I really like and use the Master Python cable lock, while realizing that it is mostly a visual deterrent.
https://www.asecurelife.com/best-padlocks/
John Davies
Spokane WA
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is there a general consensus
LOL, that’s a good one..... there is no consensus whatsoever, but I really like this combo.
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HL2NM0K/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B001V5IYT2/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
The collar is forged 304 stainless steel and plenty strong, and the padlock is “high enough” security for travel. It is a snug fit in the hole with no extra movement. It would be tricky to get cutters around it. If you research padlocks, you will find that ones secure enough for long term storage are super expensive. This one is big, intimidating and has a good shielded lock mechanism. After two seasons of use I see no need to change it.
If you want to leave the Proven one at home you can add a $20 layer of protection while away from the trailer by inserting a 2” steel ball in the coupler so nobody can drop it onto a smaller hitch ball.
If you don’t already have your hitch setup, we can talk about what works on a Ram 3500.... the truck in the pic had 33 inch tires and the trailer was dead level.
John Davies
Spokane WA
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I regret that I did not find out about these trailers a decade earlier. I regret that there was not an offroad Independent Suspension Package and Disk Brake Package to order. I regret that the factory is a 30 hour drive away from my home.
Otherwise I regret nada!
I discount completely any negative comments on this page by a brand new forum member whose first and ONLY post (147117) was on the day (s)he joined seven months ago, and who has no profile information whatsoever. Especially when the problems whined about relate to common RV appliances, not to an Oliver trailer.
Wait, we need an “RV Appliance Hate Thread”....
John Davies
Spokane WA
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You can see in the attached picture that Oliver used under the bike rack the same rubber that is placed under all supports between the aluminum and fiberglass body. With the current rack I have had no issues, the mounting bolts remain tight over many miles.
Thanks for the closeup pic, I have seen pics of the various rack versions, but didn’t know what material was used. Do you actually check the bolt torque routinely and have you ever had to tighten them, or do they stay pretty much solid?
John Davies
Spokane WA
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Here is a closeup of the area in question, with those pesky diamond plate ridges.... this stuff really does not bend neatly, notice the small crack right beside a diamond in the corner. I much prefer smooth plate.... I don’t think the crack will go any further but it should not be there. Those raised edges will make you bleed, they should be filed down. I am not impressed.
John Davies
Spokane WA
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I agree, look at the “moment arms”. The hitch ball is at 16’ from the centerline between the two axles. The rear load will be about 9 feet back from that C/L. So there is roughly a less than 2 to 1 relationship. Adding 125 lbs at that rear location “should” lighten the front by say 55 or 60 lbs.
OTH removing that much weight from the front cargo tray area and then placing it in the back has a MUCH more pronounced effect on tongue weight. As a test I removed my cargo basket and the full jerry cans (720 pounds TW !) and stacked 170 pounds of sandbags on the rear bumper. That is not as far back as a set of bikes but close enough. The new TW was 510 pounds. Pretty dramatic difference, eh?
Oliver Trailers is very happy to sell the ELITE II with standard propane bottles (20 pounds lighter than the optional big ones) and no cargo tray, AND with the rear bike rack. They are pretty confident that the trailer will be stable with that setup. While they recommend 10% tongue weight, many trailers are way less than that and NOBODY has ever complained about sway or instability.
So don’t worry about loading down the tongue to compensate for bikes, it just isn’t necessary. You might consider always towing with a full fresh tank. It adds a lot of stabilzing mass down low. But if you do need to carry extra gear like a generator, it must go up front on the tongue... got one of these yet? .... https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B007REJTGI/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
John Davies
Spokane WA
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So, I’m guessing that “rubber baby buggy bumpers” will not work?
I think this forum needs an extra button at the top right, one that says......
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”NO THANKS.”
It is nice hearing from you, otherwise.
John Davies
Spokane WA
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For those owners with factory bike racks, do the mounting bolts stay tight, and have you seen any sign of distress in the parts? Cracks or signs of movement between the big square “receivers” and the diamond plate cover?
I am building my own cargo rack and need to know what the factory uses under the square tubes and over the diamond plate. It needs to be hard enough to not squeeze out and not let the parts move, yet be soft enough to allow the sharp diamond points to work their way into the rubber so that the parts fit tightly.
Durometer (hardness), thickness, material type, fiber reinforced......?
I found some plain neoprene at Grainger but it has a 30 durometer and is just too squooshy. McMaster has a bunch of choices but they are $$$ and I need to know what works best. The stronger stuff is 70 durometer... https://www.mcmaster.com/rubber
I also thought about just sanding down all those nasty razor sharp points and having a proper “intimate” fit of the rack parts. I have requested info from Oliver, and asked if they would sell me some strips, but I wanted to also ask here.
As I type my Oliver cargo basket is at the welder to get modified to bolt down to my new rack, and I have 30 pounds of raw aircraft aluminum in the back of my truck, I just need to figure out this rubber part.
Thanks,
John Davies
Spokane WA
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I’ve been told that there can be some problems with metal stems sealing to tire rims (particularly rims that are not steel) and, of course, there are the potential issues surrounding corrosion with metal stems.
Bill, I don't think the sealing to the hole is really any different than a solid rubber one... a steel stem has a rubber grommet that fills the hole. The nut can come loose which could cause a leak, but it can be easily snugged up from the outside.
I suspect most leaky stems are due to nasty corroded wheels. Those same wheels also usually have problems holding air when the bead area is pitted. When they get that bad they should be scrapped.
John Davies
Spokane WA
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I am now the proud owner of a Legacy Elite!
in Introduce Yourself
Posted
Oh yeah, the grey water tank is very long and only about 6 inches high, so with the rear outlet elevated even a little it won't drain well, or at all, depending on how much water is there. Shift the trailer or raise up the front. The systems work well when the floor is dead level or ever so slightly nose high. All the tank drains are toward the back.
John Davies
Spokane WA