John E Davies
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Posts posted by John E Davies
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The problem is all that mass bouncing around at the end of that long skinny arm. Not good. I did read that the recommended Thule (?) standard bike rack for the Oliver mount has a 100 pound limit in this application.
My suggestion is to build a custom one without a central mount. Bolt the trays directly to the rack. Overland built a nice one with the excellent 1-Up Super Duty trays, which would work great for your ebikes. Remember you can always take out both battery packs to reduce the weight by 15 or 20 pounds and also to discourage thieves.
John Davies
Spokane WA
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Do you have any experience with them that would give a real world sense of the gas mileage? I’d be expecting maybe 8 towing Ollie, maybe worse.
Nope, I have never owned one. You need to check in to a PW forum, I am sure there are threads about it. I do seem to recall that the general consensus about fuel economy is “suck it up, it’s a big heavy lifted truck.”
I have owned a Gen 3 (2006 3500) Cummins 5.9 and I loved the torque, the 14 to 16 mpgs I got towing, and 20-22 empty at 60 mph. Loved the loooong range. Hated every other thing about that truck! If you keep a diesel out of warranty it can kill you financially.
My truck ate ball joints - they were too small for that 1200 pound boat anchor riding on top. The front suspension up travel was maybe three inches before it hit the bump stop. The power steering pump failed at 85,000 miles during our Ollie maiden voyage in TN. That was a $3600 out of pocket cost and a three day delay, since it sent steel particles into the brake booster, steering rack and all the lines. The entire system had to be replaced. A pump failure on a gas truck would have cost about a third of that.
I put a set of $1400 Corbeau suspension racing seats in it in an attempt to reduce the jarring ride on forest roads. They were a great improvement but my dogs and wife hated the motion.
My truck was the last year for the 5.9 so no emissions. I won’t own a later year diesel simply because of the emissions, since I can’t afford a new one and I would keep it long past any warranty expired.
We traded it in on our 90,000 mile Land Cruiser (got $24k for the Ram which startled me) and never looked back. I won’t ever own another diesel. The cost benefit ratio is all wrong for me. I would rather drive a bulletproof gas engine, have great off pavement handling, and put lots of fuel in it. That’s why I like the Power Wagon, it is simple and cheap to maintain and it doesn’t have an extra 600 pounds riding on the front ball joints.... Too bad it never got that cool Cummins V8 5.0. It would fit neatly in there with plenty of room for the winch..... but it would still be too darned heavy for decent offroad handling.
BTW my 200 on Plus 2 33” LT Ridge Grapplers gets 15 to 17 on back highways, empty, and 10 to 12 towing at 60 mph. Tow at 70 and it gets into single digits. I imagine the Power Wagon would have similar numbers. But probably better empty mpgs since it has cylinder deactivation.
John Davies
Spokane WA
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I’m sorry, I really dislike those hubs. They are completely non-user friendly. You can’t replace the bearing pack beside the road, as you said, it requires a hydraulic press and the bearings are stupid expensive. They work great until one fails, then you are simply screwed. Hopefully you aren’t three hours out on ranch roads in the desert....
https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Bearings-Races-Seals-Caps/Dexter-Axle/31-72-3.html
Plus you probably have the same weird special order axles as all the other Elite IIs - 3500 pound spindles and bearings with six wheel studs. You need to make sure that you know the correct part number bearing assembly. You should pop off the cover and measure the end of the spindle to be sure.
In your shoes I would be thinking hard about new 5200 pound axles with bigger bearings and IDLER hubs, and Kodiak disk brakes with slip-over-hub rotors. You can easily carry a spare conventional idler hub assembly since they are so very compact and cheap. Dexter parts are idiotically expensive and you should consider aftermarket marine (boat trailer) parts.
How did you end up with those bearings? I never heard of an Ollie with that specification.... just Nev-R-Adjust brakes, which I also hate with great passion.
John Davies
Spokane WA
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Raspy, have you considered a Power Wagon? It will do everything you want offroad, and more, it comes with the 6.4 Hemi, 33s, skid plates, lockers, axle disconnect, solid front axle, and a winch, so you don’t have to worry about losing payload if you make some mods - the are already calculated into the load. It has a light payload for a 2500 since it has that long travel suspension. You would NOT need an Andersen for sure, but you might need airbags for levelling, depending on your load.
If I did not have such a love affair going on with my Land Cruiser, I would be looking at a leftover 2018, they are heavily discounted by some dealers like the one in west Boise ID..... they have THREE beautiful limited edition Mojave Sand PWs for at least $11,500 off. I love that color, it’s perfect for an offroader.
If you haven’t looked at one, at least sit inside one and take it around the block. They ride very softly compared to the standard 2500 and especially to any diesel. Dennis Dillon does tons of Internet sales and will pick you up at the airport, their prices are the lowest I have seen anywhere.
https://www.allpar.com/trucks/ram/power-wagon/index.html
John Davies
Spokane WA
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Love that place! That is the White Rim Road down there along the cliff edge. Have you ever driven it? The east half along the Colorado River is by far the most stunning.
https://www.nps.gov/cany/planyourvisit/whiterimroad.htm
Shafer Switchbacks, headed toward the east entry point to the WR, (very) downhill from the Canyonlands ranger station close to Moab....
John Davies
Spokane WA
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That drawing is very cool, thanks for posting. And Mark spelled out the process beautifully.
I have saved that pdf and will print a copy for the owners manual.
John Davies
Spokane WA
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Plan to install a Furrion exterior inlet like John’s unit. Purchased the Renogy 100 solar panel with controller and suitcase. Will go for less than 10 amp fuse if I’m understanding what’s been said in this thread so far. Thinking about installing inlet on the exterior next to LP bottle area
Use a 10 amp, that is the specs for the connector and you don’t need to downsize it.
The male plug is rated at 20 amps and you need to use as large a cable as possible. I used 10 AWG and it was a tight fit. Soldering was a little tricky, you need a big iron. The bigger the conductor, the less the voltage drop. This is very important with longer cables when you are using a regulated panel that is only putting out less than 15 volts at best, at its onboard controller.
The factory location is ideal, it is super easy to reach it from under the dinette and also to run the cable into the battery compartment.
John Davies
Spokane WA
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I just measured the placement of the holes from the 2” hitch and laid out the holes on the 2-5/16” hitch to match.
I have to admit that I’m a little uncomfortable with that method, since the 2” Bulldogs come with the holes predrilled to Oliver Trailers and they probably match the tongue holes precisely since they are built on a jig. Going the other way, drilling new holes in the steel to exactly match the old worn ones in the tongue, is tricky at best.
I haven’t done this mod yet but I would probably bolt the coupler down, drill a third “keeper” bolt hole right in the center, remove the coupler and then and bed the upper part in epoxy so it can’t shift.... there are tremendous loads on it from the Andersen chains and once it starts moving it will worsen with hard use. It should be a very precise fit.
That’s me though, anal plus.
It would be helpful if Oliver could provide a technical drawing showing the exact measurements for the mounting holes.
John Davies
Spokane WA
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Spike, I drilled them in a drill press. If you don’t own one, they could be drilled with a large hand held. If I remember correctly, the holes were 5/8” or so. Most folks that don’t have a drill press won’t have bits that large so you may have to get some help.
How did you get them accurately located so that they matched the holes in the aluminum tongue? They need to be a very close match....
Thanks.
John Davies
Spokane wa
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If I were ordering one today it would be a Renogy 100 watt folding suitcase with controller and carry case, it is highly regarded at Expedition Portal. Not my rig... but I love those round ARB LED driving lights, they will absolutely blow out your retinas if you look at them directly.
John Davies
Spokane WA
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Well, if you run 10 amps through it, the fuse will pop. Possibly. I picked 8 amps as a safe 80% load. Most smaller panels are fine, I would not try a 200 watt setup through the Furrion connection. You could always add a second one and use two separate panels and harnesses.
If you knew for sure your panel peaked at 10 amps, I guess you could increase the fuse to a 15 amp one without any risk.
John Davies
Spokane WA
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We are considering travelling for about ten days into Canada eh! It is only about a six hour drive not counting border crossing problems. We will be going in mid-summer and want to avoid the tourist zoos further east in the big parks. Any wonderful spots to recommend, pretty much anywhere on that map? We prefer boondocking or small municipal type parks, nothing fancy. No resorts please.
Scenery, lookouts, ghost towns, waterfalls, scenic drives, quiet canoeing lakes. All are good.
Thanks for any comments.
John Davies
Spokane WA
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I haven’t looked at a current production trailer, but this is what they installed in mine (218).
The installation instructions call for an inline 10 amp fuse to protect the wiring inside the trailer. Mine did not have one... make sure yours does. The positive and negative wires run directly to the battery, so you need a panel with an onboard charge controller and an output of no more than about 8 amps. A 100 or 120 watt would be perfect.
I sourced a compatible 20 amp male plug and high quality Anderson Powerpole connectors to make a heavy gauge power cable to run my ARB fridge (inside my truck) off the trailer when parked. It works dandy. And I can use the cable as an extension for a solar panel in the future. I can post more info if anyone is interested. Here is the plug...https://www.amazon.com/CNLINKO-Industrial-Circular-Connector-Waterproof/dp/B01M4RQ3X1/ref=pd_cp_263_1?pd_rd_w=W9luB&pf_rd_p=ef4dc990-a9ca-4945-ae0b-f8d549198ed6&pf_rd_r=Z19YVZZ7KAH8KQMVWZS6&pd_rd_r=993fda2b-55b9-11e9-bfd2-9b05f136c4af&pd_rd_wg=EJPXx&pd_rd_i=B01M4RQ3X1&psc=1&refRID=Z19YVZZ7KAH8KQMVWZS6
It would be nice if they added a picture on the standard features page.
I am not at all liking the tacky happy face sun sticker, it needs to come off. It says Solar Charge right on the cover. It’s not even straight ?
John Davies
Spokane WA
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@john D: If you like the sensor, could you put the sensor in a freezer zip lock bag and tape it to the underside of the trailer. The zip lock will not effect its temperature readings and would keep it dry.
Thanks, that is a possibility. Another is a plastic watertight container for a phone, like you would take white water rafting... the box could be permanently mounted to the frame or inside the rear bumper area with high strength 3m tape, just pop the latches to access the transmitter to change batteries. Something like this... https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07KQ5MP2M/ref=twister_B07NDMGDYF?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Yes, it costs more than a freezer bag, but OTH it is very cool.
John Davies
Spokane WA
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Congratulations, I used to go to Montgomery Bell as a kid, it probably has changed in fifty years. Are you planning to drive into Nashville? If you like cars, the Lane Motor Museum near the airport is pretty cool for a couple of hours. The zoo is close by and also is good.
John Davies
Spokane WA
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That sounds suspiciously like what happens to a camera bag with multiple Nikon bodies and lenses left sitting on the driveway as you are about to leave for a big trip.
I think if we had a Sad Photo of the Day thread, this pic would win first prize..... what was the value of all that junk before it became junk? Did insurance cover the loss?
John Davies
Spokane WA
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I got mine working. It required new batteries plus a full reset using a paper clip. I will continue to use this for the fridge/freezer. But I still want a unit that will show outside temps with waterproof sensors. I would be OK with a separate display unit, I really like to look of this LaCross but ....
“weather resistant from light moisture. Recommend placing transmitting sensor approximately 8 inches below under eave or overhang protected from consistent rain”.
That sounds like it is pretty much wide open.
Thanks.
John Davies
Spokane WA
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Hey, we paid for it (the original 2″ coupler), we might as well take it with us. Not sure what we’ll do with it though. Might just give it to someone in the Oliver world who needs it for whatever reason.
Ask for the packaging that the big one shipped in.... Put the 2 inch one in the Oliver Classifieds for $40, or on eBay, and it should sell quickly.
John Davies
Spokane WA
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I used this setup for two seasons
The display died completely and I was never impressed with the way it worked. One problem is that if a sensor fails, or its batteries go dead, the display shows the last measurement and there is no indication that the sensor is not working.
Any recommendation for a reliable system? I would like to have two additional waterproof outside sensors, one under the doghouse, one under the rear spare tire.
Thanks.
John Davies
Spokane WA
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It rides nicely in the closet with room for two camp chairs bungeed against it. It has been used exactly twice in two years, it worked acceptably. I inspected it very closely when I received it and there is nothing at all wrong with its construction or design. It feels sturdy enough in use.
OTH I do NOT recommend this ladder. I recommend the Werner convertible instead. Any ladder will kill you. But I carry this one. I weigh 160 lbs and I am very cautious when using it....
John Davies
Spokane WA
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I replaced it with a less bulky cheap telescoping ladder in the closet.
I know this probably isn’t what you meant, but if someone is going to get a telescoping ladder like many of us have, it’s not something you’d want to cheap out on. What you’re getting with a telescoping ladder is compactness rather than a bargain; and since the price of failure is rather high, absolutely buy the best quality one you can find.
Well, by cheap I meant my telescoping ladder isn’t super expensive and it is sturdy enough for occasional use for a normal sized adult, no worries. I and many people are just uncomfortable blowing several hundred bucks on a tool like the Telesteps. Plus I bet the Werner is more stable at one third the price. Here is the one in the closet... https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0099V3HYC/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I disagree about buying the very best, sometimes good enough is fine if you are careful and keep an eye on it.
John Davies
Spokane WA
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Just to say I remain a HUGE fan of the Werner convertible ladders. If you will be on the road a lot and have room in the bed of the truck this is a great choice. I quit carrying mine when I switched from a pickup to an SUV. I replaced it with a less bulky cheap telescoping ladder in the closet. There is no comparison in quality, features and most importantly stability. I continue to use and enjoy the Werner around the house.
You wouldn’t regret this one..... https://us.wernerco.com/products/ladders/multi-ladders/MTIAASeries/MTIAA-13
The box stores have them on sale for 20% off every now and then. Home Depot has it now for $115.
If you decide to remove that pesky water seal under the awning, you can lash the extended ladder to the awning cover with rope, with a towel for padding, and it makes for a rock solid roof access. No more nagging worries about going up top and hearing your ladder fall over .... ! When used as a step ladder, the blue plastic knobs protect the side of the trailer from scratches.
John Davies
Spokane WA
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Some have done it, no worries or problems. I agree that a 7000 lb load rating is very marginal for a fully loaded Elite II when you take it off smooth roads. The bigger coupler will fit, just drill a new set of bolt holes in the right place, that is the tricky part. If you use an Andersen hitch, replacing the ball assembly is more costly than a $15 Walmart deadweight ball.
The tongue will sit a little higher, not a big deal....
The trailers should come this way from the factory. But I think they want as much commonality as possible, which explains the weird six bolt wheels on 3500 pound axles, to match the wheel pattern on the Elite with its single heavier axle. It is good for the factory guys, but not for an owner who wants disc brakes and must swap axles or buy a new set of five bolt wheels....! Grrrr.
I may upsize, but I may go to an offroad coupler and lose the ball entirely.
Go for it. Take pictures.
John Davies
Spokane WA
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I decided to drop out after conferring with my insurance agent. I could have increased my Umbrella Liability to a safer level but that would have been costly. I sent this to Oliver Sales:
"I have become uncomfortable with the liability issues and do not want to have customers referred to me. I will happily continue to show “Mouse” to interested passerbys, and send in referral cards for them.
My big concern is that Oliver Trailers does not “vet" the referred customers in any way that I am aware of, and I have no option but to let them in when they show up. If I am doing this at a campground I have a chance to look them over, speak with them and send them on their way if they look at all sketchy. I have never had a bad experience with my several showings, but OTH I feel as if I have no control over who comes knocking."
I have been accused of being overly cautious when it comes to insurance.... so be it. Everybody has a comfort level.
John Davies
Spokane WA
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New Bike Hitch Capacity?
in Mechanical & Technical Tips
Posted
It sounds as if you really don’t like the idea of a bike rack.... have you considered just asking her if she is willing to buy a second (or replacement) compact folding camp bike that will fit in the truck? That would be a much more secure and out of sight way to carry it. Or carry her current one on a roof or front bumper rack. A front receiver is about $200.
Carrying in or on the truck allows you to transpot the bike to a nearby trail which is good.
Helping her go shopping for a brand new bike would show her how much you care for her. Have her test ride an ebike. If she gets one you can borrow it to zoom around on. They are a real hoot to ride.
https://electricbikereview.com/?s=Folding
John Davies
Spokane WA