John E Davies
-
Posts
5,759 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
243
Posts posted by John E Davies
-
-
This is a LOCKED thread. I wanted to put all my links in one spot so that they are easy for folks to find. Search remains a real problem with this forum! This thread does not allow comments. If you have questions, find a dead link or just want to talk, you can comment on the appropriate thread, or start a new thread or just Message me.
I will add to this page as I start new threads, so hopefully it will continue to be a good up-to-date reference. NEWEST POSTS ARE AT THE TOP. I am not going to bother to alphabetize them, LOL. I put a link to this page in my signature, so you can get here directly from any of my comments.
Thanks JD
_________________________________________
UPDATED 09/07/24
GENERAL TECH THREADS AND MISCELLANEOUS SUBJECTS:
https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/2139-bulldog-coupler-destroys-anderson-ball/
https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/2165-remove-the-rain-seal-on-the-awning/
https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/4854-ollie-model/
https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/6043-article-on-how-tpms-sensors-operate/
https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/4265-timbren-independent-rubber-suspension/
https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/5266-important-inspect-your-battery-cables/
https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/5001-poll-balance-your-trailer-tires/
https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/2482-review-tire-traker-tt-500-tpms/
https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/land-cruiser-200-towing-thread/
https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/fridge-wiring-problem-inspect-yours/
https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/tech-gelcoat-repair-sealant-choices/
https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/archoil-6200-fuel-treatment/
___________________________________
HOW TO MODIFICATION AND SERVICE THREADS:
https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/5790-how-to-window-dust-pollen-smoke-filter/
https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/5788-how-to-cabin-door-bungee-hold-open-strap/
https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/2151-how-to-galley-drawer-travel-straps
https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/5368-how-to-build-or-shorten-a-battery-cable/
https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/5367-how-to-battery-terminal-fuse-blocks/
https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/5330-how-to-propane-co-detector-on-off-power-switch/
https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/5301-how-to-lithium-battery-powered-vent-system/
https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/4553-how-to-quiet-the-smoke-alarm/
https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/4291-how-to-element-fire-extinguisher-install/
https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/4267-how-to-fresh-tank-drain-line-extension/
https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/4242-how-to-make-your-andersen-pin-easier-to-insert/https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/6781-how-to-service-your-rear-electric-jacks/
https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/4094-how-to-vip-3000-electric-stabilizer-jack-service/
https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/flag-pole-and-mount/
https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/how-to-caframo-sirocco-ii-12-volt-marine-cabin-fan/
https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/how-to-move-the-factory-cargo-tray-to-a-rear-rack/
https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/how-to-service-your-furnace/
https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/how-to-reflective-and-non-skid-tape/
https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/how-to-outside-shore-power-monitor-for-winter-storage/
https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/hot-water-heater-110v-element-switch-safety-label/
https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/how-to-solar-panel-extension-arms/
https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/how-to-aircraft-tiedowns-for-the-storage-tray/
https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/how-to-wire-cable-clothes-line-full-cabin-length/
https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/how-to-closet-tie-down-rings/
https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/how-to-protect-the-gelcoat-under-the-spare-tire/
https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/how-to-anderson-friction-cone-service/
https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/how-to-garmin-inreach-powered-mount/
https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/how-to-stone-stomper-gravel-guard/
https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/how-to-subframe-gravel-guard/
https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/how-to-rear-mud-flaps-for-the-ollie/
https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/overnight-visitor-checklist/
https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/how-to-fix-and-flip-your-blinds/
https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/how-to-relocate-the-surge-suppressor-remote-display/
https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/how-to-tire-pressure-placard/
https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/how-to-bathroom-door-hold-open/
https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/how-to-galley-drawer-travel-straps/
https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/how-to-install-a-big-bubble-level-no-drilling/
https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/my-tow-camp-checklist/
https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/how-to-spare-tire-and-wheel-lock/
https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/how-to-install-a-garmin-bc-30-backup-camera/
https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/how-to-drain-holes-in-the-lower-step/
https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/how-to-jack-bubble-level-adjustment-and-indexing
-
12
-
2
-
-
Reassemble all the parts, but leave off the big wind guard so you can watch the fire. Make sure your heater has water in it, turn on the gas and light it off. This is what you should see.
Notice that the ignitor and thermocouple both are directly in the flame path and they glow red hot. If the flame should go out, the thermocouple will cool rapidly, send a signal to the control unit, and it will try to relight. It will do this three times. If it doesn't stay lit, the system will fault and show a red light inside the trailer. Usually it just means you ran out of propane, but it could also be a problem with one of the parts or the board itself. My board once blew out a resistor and would no longer fire the ignitor.
Here is a video showing the lighting sequence and what to look for in terms of the flame.
Put the last wind guard back on. I wrote the service date and jet size for future reference.
FYI smaller jets are available, but I don't know where to buy them, or which size to buy for which altitude. If you live and camp exclusively at high altitudes, like the Colorado Plateau, you should consider reducing the jet size so that the flame burns more efficiently. You can pay a shop $100 to swap it or do it yourself, it is easy peasy.
John Davies
Spokane WA
-
1
-
2
-
-
Here is the bracket with the attached parts.
Here is the gas jet.
And the thermocouple and ignitor, on the left. The rust is typical and nothing to worry about. Make sure everything looks in good shape and the boot on the ignitor wire is not coming apart. Make sure that there is not an insect nest inside the tube, which would restrict air flow.
A look into the burner can. The horizontal divider forms a path for the burning gas, it shoots into the lower section and then turns and comes back on top. Pretty crude actually.... and not very efficient. Make sure there are no signs of leakage or birds nests.
Now for the jet. Propane and natural gas are both a little dirty. They contain impurities that will actually build up in the small jet opening and restrict it. Any appliance like a home furnace, fireplace or water heater that has a pilot can develop problems due to reduced flow through a restricted jet. The service manuals tell you to look for a "hard blue flame". A weak pilot will show as a flickering, unsteady yellow flame, and it may not stay lit. (I once had a home furnace that would blow out the pilot on windy days. Cleaning the jet cured that.) Since this water heater has an electronic ignition, you don't need to worry about a pilot light. But you do need to make sure the jet is clear. FYI:
[attachment file=Troubleshoot pilot flame.png]
The manuals tell you to NOT do what I did. Don't stick stuff into the hole and wiggle it around, since you might alter the size or create a burr. However, I have done this for just about forever and never had a problem. I use a set of tiny "jet drills" which in olden days were used by tuners to change jetting in carburetors. Carefully insert the shank of a smaller drill bit, NOT the sharp end, straight into the opening. Increase the size until you can no longer get it to enter. I found that there was some restriction and it went away as I got up to a number 61 bit. When you push in the bits, the crud breaks away and falls back into the hollow cavity inside the jet.
Here are the bits, with the sizes listed, both in the drill size and the decimal equivalent. Drill bit numbers are wacky, the smaller the number, the larger the diameter. My jet seemed to be a number 61, or 0.039" inside diameter.
Here is the package of bits. These are 35 years old and I don't know what the cost would be today.
If you use this method you don't need to remove the jet. I did, just for a look, using a 7/16" box end wrench.
And I found that the jet was stamped with its size, "61". How cool is that?
More...
John Davies
Spokane WA
-
1
-
-
This is a super easy appliance to work on. One reason I did not buy the Truma heater is that it can't be worked on by the owner. The only thing you can't easily do with the Suburban as an owner is check and adjust the gas pressure. This thread won't cover anode replacement and other "wet" stuff like flushing the water tank. Instead it will show you how to inspect the burner can, thermocouple and ignitor and gas jet. I used a couple of special tools, you may find that you don't need them or can use an alternate.
Using a Phillips screwdriver, remove the two outside screws holding on the lower wind guard, then pull it straight off.
Remove the steel clip securing the gas tube to the brass jet. I was able to pull it off with my fingers.
Remove the two hex head screws holding the tube and ignitor/ thermocouple bracket to the main burner can.
I used a special 3/8", 1/4" drive angle socket and a long extension, you could use a regular angle "wobbly" extension. You can't easily get in there with a wrench and the screws are too tight for a flat tipped screwdriver.
Remove the little shield. Here you can see the bracket, ready to come out.
More to come...
John Davies
Spokane WA
-
2
-
-
I have been putting off servicing my RM2454 fridge, but I have some issues. Here is what I submitted to the Service Dept.
1 - The cooling fan is bad, when it runs in hot weather the motor squeals loudly. It is located midway between the lower and upper coils, so removal of the fridge is required to reach it. I think the fan was added by Oliver, it is not shown in any of my fridge manuals. If this is an Oliver add-on, is there an access point where I can disconnect the power wire for the fan? And where is the fuse? I need a wiring diagram showing this circuit!
2 - The fridge appears to require complete removal for even routine servicing of the burner area; all I can reach from the outside is the gas jet and valve. Is the owner supposed to remove the entire unit annually to access the burner and flue? That seems very unreasonable. I bet most owners just ignore the maintenance completely until there is a failure. Why was there no thought given to better access from outside?
Can we discuss this?
Do you regularly remove your fridge or pay a shop so they can do the routine maintenance like inspecting and cleaning the flue? If so, do you have any pictures of the removal process?
Do you have a fan that was added by Oliver, and do you have a diagram for it?
Have you ever looked at the lower access point and thought, "what were they thinking?"
My unit seems to be working fine, but if I am expected to take it completely out often, which requires re-taping the vent area afterwards, it is going to get replaced with a DC compressor fridge. Then I can just block off those two outside openings completely.
Thanks for any comments.
John Davies
Spokane WA
EDIT, added a pic and a video link. Here is a still from my borescope inspection.
[attachment file=Fridge fam Screen Cap.png]
Here is the video showing the insides of the fridge and the buried fan: ...
Found an EXCELLENT Diagnostic Manual here ....https://fourwheelcampers.com/NewDometicRefrigeratorManual.pdf
And here is what is visible from outside, everything to the left of the red line:
[attachment file=RM2554 Rear Equipment.png]
JD
-
My preferred method is to find a good truck wash. It’s not inexpensive—you may pay as much as $50-$60 to get the tow vehicle and camper washed, but often they do an excellent job.
I have never even considered a truck wash. Can you tell us how they work? Are they automatic, are there rotating brushes? Blow dry? Do you worry about damage to all the stuff up top?
I am pretty anal about the finish on my vehicles and Ollie. I loathe drive-through car washes that scratch the paint with stiff rotating fibers or brushless floppy things, and won’t use one, ever. I don’t even like the harsh soaps that are used at the quarter car washes, so I won’t use more than the rinse cycle and never the brush on a stick. I do use a commercial place in the winter when it is too cold to do it myself, to get off the deicer, but it is a pressure pre-rinse followed by a hand wash. And they only do a 6 out of 10 star job, at best. And it does scratch, so I have to rewax in the spring.
https://jalopnik.com/heres-why-you-should-never-take-your-car-to-a-carwash-1821475097
OTH a lot of people don’t really care very much about their paint, especially if they change vehicles often. But if you want to keep it twenty years, you should....
Thanks for any comments on the truck wash. I would like to see a pic of your Ollie parked among a bunch of big rigs.
John Davies
Spokane WA
-
2
-
-
Forgot, if you drive an older diesel like your ‘06 Ram with no emissions, or one that has had them deleted, you will always have black soot buildup behind the tailpipe during a long trip. Rejex makes it much easier to remove it from the paint, tailgate and bumper.
When I towed with mine, I never noticed any soot on the trailer, even after 3000 miles. I’m not sure the reason for that.
John Davies
Spokane WA
-
Don’t wash at the campground, it usually pisses everybody off. Maybe if you were a long term resident and the trailer was parked for months, if the owner agreed. A wipe down with detailing spray is fine.
Here is a tip..... use Rejex on the trailer and TV, especially on the roof and front. It is so slick that bugs and tree drippings do not stick very well. Some users say “the bugs just rinse off”; LOL that isn’t even close to true. But cleaning is way, WAY easier. I got my Land Cruiser completely covered in mud when exploring thawing dirt backroads in late winter. I used a quarter car wash at a small town and blasted off 95% of it using only the fresh water rinse mode, no nasty harsh soap or scrubbing was needed.
Washing this way gets it pretty darned clean, and you can get out your ladder and take off the bugs from the front and solar panel, and wipe the windows and wheels with a good detail spray like Griots Speed Shine.
I normally don’t bother to do a complete wash on a trip, but my longest one was three weeks. If you are a marathoner, you need to be able to clean it somewhat on the road. If I did both vehicles, I would wash the Ollie first, and then do the TV later with more care without the trailer attached so I didn't blow junk onto the clean trailer. Most people want their TV to look nice (you are always seeing crusty old farts spending hours fussing with getting bugs out of the chrome grills of their HD trucks) and they seem to be less concerned about a completely spotless trailer.
Finally, if your climate has morning dew, attack the bugs daily by hand on the grill and windshield, and the front of the trailer, while they are soaking wet and they will come off quite easily. When they are like dried epoxy and the surface is scorching hot you risk scratching the surfaces by scrubbing too hard....
John Davies
Spokane WA
-
1
-
-
Dwain, since you are still in that initial research stage, check out truck campers. An Ollie with solar and composting toilet is a fantastic, comfy dry camping platform, but you are always hampered by the fact that your rig is 40 feet or more in length. That is always a big factor in driving unknown backroads..... will I have a way to turn around if the road stops at a closed gate or there is a washout or a downed tree? This is not something to brush aside, getting caught at the end of a long single lane road is no small matter and it can cause lots of stress.
You can do a lot of research ahead of time using Google Earth, and you can ask your partner to get out and scope things on foot, but the bottom line is that it is always a PITA, either minor or huge, to tow a trailer anywhere. Ferries cost more, parking in cities is often impossible, you risk finding yourself blocked in if you do find a place to stop, storage is more of a problem. Sometimes you will come to a campground that you may not even be able to use due to lack of room to maneuver. Here is one of my favorites, Deception Pass State Park, WA, and I simply won’t go there with my Ollie. And there are lots of similar ones in the woods of the Pacific NW and along the Pacific coast.
Trailers are just awkward, ALL the time. That is just the way things are.
With a truck camper all those particular worries vanish, replaced by a different set of its own. For a couple with no animals traveling all over the country it makes a bunch of sense. If you want to tow a small boat or motorcycle trailer it or a small motorhome is the only choice. There are very few really good 4 season truck campers like Northern Lite, they cost less than an Ollie but you must have a dedicated very heavy duty pickup to carry the load. They are not put together as well, you have to go upscale considerably to an XP Camper for that, but there are always compromises you have to make.
Just something else to think about. ... https://www.truckcampermagazine.com/camper-tech/boondocking-101-water-tanks-power-and-propane/?singlepage=1
I strongly caution you to avoid all slideouts, they are usually huge nightmares starting the very first year. Finding any recent model RV without a slideout is difficult, they are in fashion because people like the big floor space and they are also idiots. Here you go.... https://northern-lite.com/Truck-Camper-SE-10-2EXSE-DB.php
OTH there is NOTHING out there for less than about $125k plus the cost of a HD truck that compares to an Ollie for build quality, features, warranty and above all customer service.
John Davies
Spokane WA
-
2
-
1
-
-
Sherry, my mistake, I do get web notifications, the alert bell, but I never read them. I should just turn them off.... however I do want to be notified of PMs by email, and that for sure has never functioned.
John Davies
Spokane WA
-
Soooooo, do you have any idea why I never receive an email notification when a new PM is waiting? I have to check my messages weekly or more often, I never get notified. None of these features have worked for me.... and it’s not going into my Spam folder.
Thanks.
John Davies
Spokane WA
-
Even with a cover you would need drain holes, for when you wash the trailer or from normal moisture accumulation during rainy travel. There may be a few other spots on the trailer that catch water like the awning brackets up top, and the bottom of the steps, when folded . You can do this yourself easily enough. Standing water is not good.
I consider a lithium battery powered drill/ driver to be an essential travel tool, it has a lot of uses when combined with a small set of drill bits and tips. If you don’t have one already, consider an excellent Dewalt 20V kit. It is very powerful, compact, comfortable and can handle up to a 1/2” bit. Like the tool, all the drill accessories are very high quality. .... https://www.amazon.com/Dewalt-DCD771C2-Cordless-Lithium-Ion-Compact/dp/B00ET5VMTU?th=1
John Davies
Spokane WA
-
1
-
-
Yukon, you really need to read this article. It has to do with fiberglass boat hull construction, but most of the ideas transfer to an Ollie hull. There is no reason we should worry that parts of the Ollie’s hull halves are primarily chopped fibers sprayed with a resin gun. That method is adequately strong for a trailer when done correctly. I would love to see an Ollie with all hand laid, vacuum bagged, long fiber cloth, but that will never happen, it is just way too costly. This is interesting and more than a little scary.....:
https://www.yachtsurvey.com/Fiberglass_Boats.htm
BTW I had a 1988 SeaRay with incredibly bad delamination problems, I can relate to this article, and others at that website... like their review of the beyond appalling Carver.
John Davies
Spokane WA
-
1
-
-
This is a great idea, but there needs to be a new sub-forum for a small number of these special FAQ Sticky threads. Because Search is so dumb, it makes sense to have these FAQ type threads locked into one special place by a moderator, not floating around lost among the day to day topics. That way new visitors could have a lot of valuable info in one location. It would sure save a lot of repetitive conversation.
I LOVE this navigation app, but while it works on a phone, no worries, it is much more useable and easier to read on an iPad or other small tablet. The ability to add and blend multiple layers is extra useful. For anyone who parks their Ollie and heads back into the poorly mapped back country with zero cell coverage, this is a must.
John Davies
Spokane WA
-
1
-
-
LOL, believe this guy, it is all so very true. And so are the comments.... But not for Olivers. Newbies, remember that.
Until I discovered Ollies I was stone set to never own another @#$&*! RV. There should be another classification for Olivers. maybe NARV. “Not An RV”. I own an Oliver NARV. I think I will add that to my signature....
John Davies
Spokane WA
-
Geronimo John, thanks for the very kind words. I do appreciate them.
I see my underneath guards as a system, much like a football players protective gear, he would not be safe if he left one piece off.
I don't know the overall aerodynamic impact, that would be very hard to measure. All the stuff hanging down surely blocks a lot of air moving between the hull and the ground, but it is designed to fly back closer to horizontal at higher speeds. And the Stone Stomper almost completely eliminates the pesky low pressure zone between TV and trailer. I haven't noticed any impact in mpgs, but I really don't care. I want the protection, I will accept any drawbacks. It's like adding big off-road mud tires to your truck, you know they will kill your fuel economy, but you need them for the remote places into which you venture.
The Stone Stomper is the primary and most important mod. It knocks down all the junk being thrown up by the TV. In fact it is so effective that in a heavy downpour at 60 mph the back window of the TV stays almost completely dry. On dusty roads there is no dust accumulation on the front of the Ollie or the back of the TV. There are NO chips whatsoever on the front of the hull or abrasion on the A-frame. All that muck is channelled underneath the tongue and frame of the trailer. It truly is amazing and I wonder why they don't have a USA distributor for them.
There are usually down sides, and they are that the stuff going under the trailer hits the frame and hull. So you need those skirts. Plus the massive dust cloud exits out from under the tarp right at the lower fridge grill, so the inside of that opening and the coils gets very dirty. I will eventually install a 12V compressor fridge and seal off that outside area completely.
The two front skirt aluminum mounts are also the rear mounts for the Stone Stomper (since you shouldn't just bolt the support brackets to the hull gelcoat). The skirts are 18" wide and protect the bottom of the hull, the black water rinse connection and the front of steps, which otherwise are very exposed.
The center skirts are the full frame wide and protect the axles, springs and suspension. These and the front two are 1/8" thick cloth-reinforced neoprene similar to conveyor belt material. They are weighted and reinforced at the bottom with twin strips of heavy gauge stainless steel. They are intended to fly back at highway speeds and hang down more vertically at lower speeds. I have never tried to take a video, that would be educational, for sure.
The rear mud flaps protect the underside of the hull and the rear bumper from stones and dirt thrown up by those big trailer tires. These rocks normally will erode the water connections on the left side and back - do you really want your drinking water connections to be covered with road tar and muck? - and will badly pockmark the front of the bumper. Ricochets will go up onto the rear platform and also strike the rear hull and lights. Mine are commercially made flaps 12" wide x 18" tall, and much stiffer and not intended to fly back. They are very effective at stopping this damage.
TV mudflaps. They are not really needed at all with a Stone Stomper. It has a wide flap that catches a lot of those rocks. Having longer or wider mudflaps on the TV might help, but you run the risk of dragging them on a gravel road if they are too long. That is bad because it sends up a really heavy rooster-tail of rocks.
Here is the order I would do this, keeping in mind that I did ALL the work myself - paying a shop to do all this would be very expensive. With this approach you can assess each step and decide if you want to keep going with more protection.
1 - Rock Tamers on the TV. Relatively cheap, they are reasonably effective except on gravel roads where they just don't have enough coverage. Be sure to rig them so that they will fly at a 45 degree angle at high speed. This means having a static position that is maybe 20 or 30 degrees back. That way they knock the rocks downwards onto the road, not back toward your TV. This is how the Aussies do it.
2 - Rear mudflaps on the Ollie. Very easy and inexpensive way to protect the plumbing and back end of the Ollie.
3 - Stone Stomper. Replaces the Rock Tamers entirely. Way more effective at protecting the front of the Ollie and the back of the TV. Disadvantages are cost, fabrication of rear mounts and center support (to hold up the fabric during turns) and day to day PITA. It isn't hard to hook up to the TV but it always is in the way, one way or the other. If you are driving at high speeds on the Interstate for days at a time it probably makes the most sense to remove it for that part off the journey. I don't bother. Sometimes you encounter road construction or chip sealing even on fine highways and the SS stops rocks and tar in their tracks.
4 - Front and center skirts. Do them together, it is the same materials and technique. That will greatly reduce the chaos underneath the trailer frame. If you don't drive on a LOT of gravel, you probably should never worry about these items.
Keep in mind that the tires you choose for your TV will also greatly affect how much stuff they throw up. I run open tread mud tires and they don't throw up stones on the typical fine gravel of graded county roads. A tighter tread like my snow tires throws up way WAY more crud. The narrow gaps grab and release the rocks. You can hear a constant barrage of stones hitting the wheel wells, that just doesn't happen (as much) with the mud tires.
My approach is 180 degrees from armoring the front of the Ollie. That stops the rock chips but it doesn't do a thing for damage at other locations. OTH it is certainly fast and easy to have a shop spray your hull. But cost is very high.
Read and watch here: ... https://www.outbacktravelaustralia.com.au/driving-towing-towing/stone-stomper-trailer-protection-january-2016?A=SearchResult&SearchID=152319746&ObjectID=6762797&ObjectType=35
and here: ...
After watching the video on the first link you are probably thinking, "that is really time consuming to hook up." It is a little, initially, but when you need to access your rear hatch you simply disconnect a couple of bungee snaps on one side and drop down the fabric. Just remember to reconnect before travel. I prefer to not unhitch at all, and to leave the SS attached everywhere. If I have to unhitch, I pull the fabric back and underneath the frame and clip the front outside snaps to the rear mounts. That way the fabric doesn't blow around and it looks neat and tidy.
I hope this helps.
John Davies
Spokane WA
-
1
-
-
More to the story, discovered a additional circle mark (thought it was dirt) I ran my fingernail across it and could scrape away uncured fiberglass filler of some sort, Oliver Had to have had issues during production my guess. I doubt stone hit now, they are the same size holes.
Well, I find this to be VERY disturbing, you have you wonder how many other places are affected on your trailer, and on other trailers. If the hull has to be raised up off the frame for a proper repair that could take a while. It's not a job I would want anybody but the factory attempting.... Oliver is in the molded fiberglass business, if this is truly a mixing error they need to look closely at the quality control for all their products.
This is a useful page discussing what to look for on a boat hull. Osmotic blisters look very similar to yours, but those are caused by water absorption from sitting in the lake long term. .. https://www.boatingmag.com/boats/inspecting-your-boats-finish
I need to grease my suspension, I guess I will look at everything under there a lot more closely now.
Good luck. Please keep us advised. I am sure that the factory will treat you right and fix this correctly. OTH I would not make any critical appointments for that week since they may need to keep the trailer for a while....
John Davies
Spokane WA
-
1
-
-
Paula, this might interest you.
http://olivertraveltrailers.com/topic/how-to-garmin-inreach-powered-mount/
John Davies
Spokane WA
-
1
-
-
Cell booster definitely, it can mean the difference between making a call or not, it “can” be really effective in fringe areas. Not always. You need to be in line of sight with the transmitter. You can set a phone or other device under it and use that as a Wifi Hotspot for everybody in the trailer but don’t try to stream video. Verizon is the very best choice for the West, but it couldn’t hurt to have a second phone with a different provider, as long as they use different towers. Check the signal maps, see if they are different.
Second awning, meh, I rarely deploy our curbside one, due to wild winds out west. They can really shake the trailer since the canvas acts as a sail, and they spring up unexpectedly so you can’t go on a hike with it out. They are indeed totally unpredictable in some locations, sometimes a fierce williwaw will appear and then be gone minutes later.
TV antenna, your choice. I get news via Internet when it’s available and just do without the rest of the time. I don’t need to know the latest political scandal when I am off grid. Movies are done by dvd in the laptop or by downloading stuff by Wifi from Amazon Prime for offline viewing. The latter is most excellent if you have enough storage on your ipad or whatever. The TV was removed the day we got home and has been in storage ever since....
I do suggest a Garmin inReach to communicate with family and for dire emergencies. When there is no cell signal it is always comforting for everyone to be able to send a simple “everything OK, stopped for the night” message to your kids, and they can see your position on your inReach Public Portal map. And since it is a true two way communicator you can message your family to mow the lawn, or rescuers with details about your emergency situation. Way better than a SPOT.
John Davies
Spokane WA
-
1
-
-
Yikes, I agree, that looks very much like a cavity behind the gelcoat which should not be there. Start a service request with the Mother Ship and get a local fiberglass repair specialist, such as a marine yard NOT a kludgy RV dealer, to evaluate at it. Hopefully “cross fingers” it is very localized and not indicative of a bigger problem. I definitely would not ignore it. Gelcoat by itself has very little strength. You need to make sure that water and debris does not start to collect in there.
BTW rock strikes can occur in the strangest places due to ricocheting off axles, frame or bumpers. They can even shatter rear hatch glass on the TV. And they occur on fine paved highways as well as on gravel roads. On a road around construction areas (new home building and road repair in particular) it is often a bit of metal like a bolt or a small tool which can really poke a hole... in a tire or in the trailer. I pulled a 3/8” allen wrench out of a tire one time! The key is to slow the rocks down by absorbing energy, and directing them back toward the ground. This is real overkill for most Ollie owners but it is extremely effective. I call it Chaos Management.
Good luck.
John Davies
Spokane WA
-
3
-
-
KWR, Off topic, how are you attaching those side support straps to the trailer? There isn’t much to hook onto.
Thanks.
John Davies
Spokane WA
-
I would worry more about your tail lights. Are those colored strips on the rack actual lights (turn, brake and park) or are they just reflectors? If the latter I suggest you don’t leave home before mounting lights.
What do you carry in the big Yeti? If you carried that in the center of the rack, and the grill elsewhere, your trailer lights would probably be visible enough.
I would ask Service to send you a new license plate mount with light and put it on the hull over to the side like mine (see above pics). You could easily splice the two wires into the left running or clearance lights. I suppose you could mount it to the rack itself in the middle, but I would worry about having a plate not actually attached to the vehicle, and so might a cop. I’m not sure that is legal.
John Davies
Spokane WA
-
j
Maybe the wind will blow all this dust off…Cool, I am a huge admirer of Unimogs but could never live with one... too uncivilized. I also like BLM camping. You need one of these for that dust, it will clear 90% off in a minute less than no time.... https://www.stihlusa.com/products/blowers-and-shredder-vacs/homeowner-blowers/bg50/
John Davies
Spokane WA
-
Stay away from Interstates entirely, wander along on secondary highways, take your time, learn the patterns of towing and living in a trailer. Interstates are full of too many nasty big rigs traveling too fast and too close together. Interstate highway travel is sometimes required if you need to cover a lot of miles, but it is seldom enjoyable when towing. It is always stressful.
There are a bunch if camping apps, download a few and study them and you will get a feel for what is out there.
I just hate those Interstates....
IMHO of course.
John Davies
Spokane WA
-
3
-
Anyone use a Hubodometer?
in General Discussion
Posted
Hobo, I have never even considered one. What model? My main concerns would be the initial cost and the warranty. If electronic, how easy is it to replace the battery, and how waterproof is the display? How does it mount and how secure is it?
It is easy enough to record miles towed in a spreadsheet. You need to record the service stuff anyway. Why not record your trip miles too?
http://olivertraveltrailers.com/topic/how-to-davies-rv-travel-log-service-inventory-spreadsheet-excel-numbers/
John Davies
Spokane WA