DanielBoondock

My Bosch induction at home doesn’t. The burners have a boost setting but you can’t use them simultaneously. This is normal for induction ranges. It’s normal for most electrical appliances too and houses. Try running all your house lines at absolute full bore and see how fast you start tripping breakers. IIRC the national code specifies 80% continuous and non simultaneous use. Which is why total breaker ratings can add up to more than the panel can technically handle (200A typically). But you guys are still thinking in gas terms, electrical doesn’t work that way. But it doesn’t matter, induction is faster and more efficient than gas so you don’t need full simultaneous use. To answer your question specifically I don’t know as I’d have to have the circuit or block diagram of the cooktop to answer, or maybe they talk about it in the manual. Moot point as it’s pretty obvious. Another take, this is just the same as why I can’t use AC, wave and cooktop simultaneously. Making electrical support full simultaneous use is too expensive and not necessary.

OK the filterification of the Oliver is done and tested. Just need a little padding/bracing, I think a foam pad between the tanks is all I need. It’s so tight in there they’re already pretty secure. Here’s a block diagram of what I ended up with The reasoning is that all this filtering greatly reduces water pressure and slows the fill basically. I don’t need the Offgrid Filter (down to .5 u paper filters + UV sterilize) for the fresh water tank, just the softening is sufficient. So I have a loose “To fresh tank” quick connect line when filling, just three easy connections for waterpoint and to tank, just using the softener/Fe I open the offgrid line and snake the hose into a 5 gallon drinking water tank to fill that up. Plus power - I need to get a 12V cig output into the basement The third is for spraying off the truck + trailer. Softened so that ideally it leaves no water spots I don’t know how this worked out but somehow, with the water tanks taking up that back space (leaving room to toss dirty clothes around them) I seem to have more storage overall. I’ll take it though

Thanks that’s clear now. They use a different stove for the 2k LEI. The LEII has a two burner with different capacities. Yours is definitely wired to the inverter and is broken if it won’t turn on. More information on the LEII stove for the interested … I think part of the confusion comes from thinking of this as propane which is just a passive line from the tank. So you get whatever the tank can supply, basically full capacity. The induction, as a 120V electrical appliance has all the same caveats as the rest of the 120V system which is really easy to overload. For example, with my 3k system the stove itself does not allow me to use both burners on full simultaneously. You can set power level (1-10) or temperture, I think in terms of PL. The left bigger one goes to 10, the right to 8. But if I set the 10 to max, then start ramping up the smaller 8 burner, at some point around 4 it’ll start to drop the level of the other burner. You get load balancing between the two. With yours though clearly it’s just a broken unit.

He seemed unsure about it when I pushed on the point. I think he was thinking about the difference between a true D35 and D52. It would be very unusual for Dexter to gimp the brakes specially I think as it would complicate inventory. Easier/cheaper to take a stock D52, ship it with the stock 1750’s and just print a new label. OK so with this new 2026 axels I’ve got, I’m having them just upgrade the springs, and I’m bringing Bulldogs with me to replace the stock shocks. They mentioned D rings, those will get replaced it sounds like, but the EZ flex and the rest of it will get reused as-is

I have D52s rated 3500, the guy at Alcan claimed these were somewhat different than D52s rated 5200 - the brakes when I questioned him. Not sure I believe it.

Second choice was opening the hatch under the bed and possibly raising the bed some way to make a space. I’ve got Froli installed plus the condensation mats which might be enough, if I opened a hole in them. Fortunately this works better and makes good use of the space. I rearranged everything last night and like it better than before If this didn’t work I was going with that approach Good to know thanks! Yeah I was leaning in that direction, why use city water at all when you only need to fill the tank every couple days? Good tips … OK yeah with your encouragement this is a go - it’s already basically done. I just need to brace the tanks, maybe I’ll get the Blutech mounting frames or something else. Final bit is I just need some power, right now it has a 120V adapter but it’s 12V so I’ll go that route. For the time being I’ll use a small portable power bank.

Proof of concept; onboard (inboard?) water conditioning and filtering. The problem has been the water softener and iron filter. So far it’s all be a modular system I move around. A pain but flexible. I gave up on putting the tanks onboard as they’re a bit too tall for any of the storage. But poking around I found that the panel under the bedside drawer is just sitting there so … Pros All contained nicely Puts weight in the back near the wheels (I’ve got plenty in front) Always set up so just takes two hookups, one from the faucet and two to the back water input. For waterpoint boondocking (e.g. national parks) I haven’t used it. Too much to futz with pulled off at some waterpoint and usually blocking the road. Since it’s permanent those hoses won’t kink, they’re a pain as they want to kink up if you use them modular Easy to access the valves for backwashing and regenerating by just taking the drawer out which is easy It just works out nicely with the lines having the right amount of coil Cons Not so great for city water. Unless I jack into the line internally I have to keep the hatch open which isn’t optimal But that’s fine, just use the tank and pump until/if I decide to make it more permanent Takes up the back storage But that’s odd storage anyhow, I finally settled on putting a folding chair and table there, plus dirty laundry shoved through the interior hatch. And now this frees up that storage elsewhere. The tanks have been knocking about, mainly in the truck. The main filter has been in the Sea Biscuit back storage, but now I can put the chairs and whatnot there And … that’s it? I’ll sit with this a few days but I think I like it and will start to make it permanent 👍

Cool this all makes sense. If I understand it now, the regular brass valve is for hot over pressure, and the plastic sacrificial filter/rupture disk is to protect against freezing over pressure. Smart design

Great comments thanks. This part is interesting because it does have a standard over pressure valve just above the filter housing. Do older Trumas not have this? Otherwise great tip about the antifreeze unit, I had it in there full time

Not sure of the exact situation from the information given, but here’s some commentary Using the induction on battery The induction will only pull full 1.8kW when both burners are on full power. The smaller one is limited to 8/10 vs 10/10 of the bigger to meet this spec. With my 3k inverter and the max lithium I can only use both at full power by themselves, no microwave or other high power devices typically at the same time because tripping the 3k is easily possible. But you have a 2k, the reason you can’t get full use out of the 2k is twofold I believe. One is code (for buildings) limits you to I think 80% of full spec for wiring. It depends on various factors like if it’s in conduit or whatnot. But the idea is there’s a difference between continuous high draw and momentary. EV’s for example, if say drawing 32A Level II charging at home overnight, will actually draw close to 32A for hours. Household wiring and sockets aren’t meant for that and will usually overheat, so they have different specifications. But maybe the wiring is rated for full use, as I do get full power on both while on shore. Two, inverters never seem to give the full rated spec, I think they leave margin for spikes. Again 80% is typical from my experience. Seems like if I get close to 3k it’ll freak. Finally there’s the phantom steady state draw from the rest of the camper, so the inverter needs margin for that. All told, an induction cooktop is much like an EV in that when it wants 1.8kW it will draw a full 1.8k until changed. That’s a high load/high stress situation for a camper. So it’s not surprising that a 2k inverter may not support both burners on full. I rarely to never use both mine on full with my 3k, it’s too easy to trip! I use the main burner on full, and if I need to simultaneously use the second one for say boiling some water, I just do it at a lower setting and it takes a little longer. But who cares? Induction is way faster than gas any day of the week so it takes about as long as gas. Breaker The LEII has a 15A dedicated breaker for the stove as you’d expect Stove top not doing anything If there’s zero response from the stovetop - pressing on (which uses no power) doesn’t turn it on than this is a problem. Most likely issue is a tripped breaker. Induction is definitely 120V not 12V feed. Anyhow the induction is a game changer IMO. No toxic gas danger, no condensation from the propane burning, no fire risk, faster, cleaner and better. But you have to know how to work with it as it’s a very high power device. I don’t think it’s a deficiency that the 2k won’t support full power on both burners, that’s ‘by design’. it’s the same reason you can’t run AC, wave and stove at the same time. You pay for the inverter size you wanted. So I wouldn’t worry about that, even at a reduced setting it’s still going to boil water faster than propane.

No worries, thanks yeah I did get clued into that trick. Worked great, the suspension quieted right down. Still a little creaky, suspecting the leaves are rubbing or maybe there’s a bit of grease missing somewhere. I noticed on the Alcan page they smartly put poly rub pads on the end of the leaves to avoid this. Well we’ll be in the neighborhood this summertime (roughly) so I set up an appointment to get fitted at Alcan. Full hog five leaf, who am I to argue with them? And I was thinking about when camping we’re going over weight anyhow with all the tanks and people in it. Plus I generally agree with having some extra margin and IIRC Alcan believes 20% is the right amount so OK.

Looks like you also got a branded cover add-on too. That’s nice, I need to get a cover

It’s just a normal roller shade, nothing unique to Oliver, so doing a general web search on roller shades might help. Mine are working fine but I think (remembering to when I’ve used them before) if it’s kinda stuck just pull down to the bottom of the window to reset the mechanism. Regarding “the others retract to at least 3/4 of the way up” - I think you mean they leave 1/4 hanging when fully retracted? That’s not right, all of mine only leave an inch or two of the shade hanging. Anyhow so far been trouble free for me. The design has been around forever, seems like an early 20th century invention, anyhow should be easy to work with. No, interesting it has an even longer history

… another idea, hard mount regular panels to the bed rails on the trick if you’re configured like that, and have that charge an Ecoflow. So top off the Ecoflow pro and use that to top off the house. That’s exactly what I do boondocking using the 220 kWh traction battery, minus the solar

Don’t need it myself since I drive electric, but if I wasn’t I still I doubt I’d do it. A lot of bother, have to be around so sticky fingers doesn’t walk off with it, and as @jd1923 sez it’s just more stuff, and big clumsy stuff too. Getting this rig pared down to the essentials has been a major project. I’d do this instead Try to optimize the roof solar charging opportunities if possible Possibly upgrade the house batteries (you have a recent vintage but don’t know what you’ve got on board) Most likely would be to instead get a backup source, it’s awfully handy to just charge off the truck one way or another Ecoflow Delta Pro has a TT-30 plug so you can top off the house batteries directly Or just get one of the 120V regular versions and find some creative uses of it My 2c … Sells how, do they have a web store? Not coming up with anything …

Ugh, no thanks, I’m retiring from having to work in an office building, why would I want to take one on the road?

On further thought, actually no. I doubt any of the pump ideas you mention would work, in my description above I mention that this high powered pump is just doing the job. It’s pumping slower than the spec. I’d only go with this one personally. Yeah I researched these on the forum. The sink option didn’t seem to do a lot for me. The pee bottle diversion would be a big benefit, with three of us (wife and adult son) we need to empty it several times a day. And now Natures Head has this option making it easy https://natureshead.net/multi-directional-urine-diverter-kit/ But that would involve some drilling and a permanent solution, not ready to go there as this trailer isn’t yet three months old. So I just bought a couple extra bottles.

I’m unhappy with the outdoor shower. The knobs are hard to get to, the line is short and the control handle is clumsy with the ‘stay on’ option. I want something that I can attach hoses to wash the bugs off the truck and camper. I’ve looked into something more extensive - there are ones that include quick hose disconnects, but I won’t do anything that drastic this year or maybe never. And anyhow I’m not happy with any of them. OK, can I adapt the existing solution? 304 Stainless steel garden hose Adapter Bathroom shower tube to garden hose adapter, 3/4" GHT male to 1/2" G (1/2"IPS) male, lead-free, shower to garden hose adapter This just test fitting, I recommend using teflon tape. Shown is the adapter and my favorite Blutech quick adapter … so that I can attach a Real Man’s spray head 😅 But what about more length? Now that it’s hooked into my quick adapter system easy peasy Shown with a short hose, I can hook any of my hoses into this. This is a concept test but it works and I love it. To be decided is how to prevent the hose from disappearing in the hole. Most likely I’ll put a proper reverse fitting and quick connect on the existing sprayer so that’s the default setup. But it then can be quickly removed and reconfigured for whatever I’m trying to do. TBD …

The macerator isn’t relevant, I chose this one because it’s made for this purpose and has a sewer line adapter built in. Cost isn’t a consideration for me but obviously you can do it any way you wish These are all 12V except for the floor lights which are 24, they can be converted to 12V easily and I’m considering it. I prefer Hue and IMO they’re entirely suitable for mobile. The lamps are the perfect size on this trailer for example, but again it’s a free country 🙂

For the composters out there … what about that black tank, can we move grey to black? Experiment … Shopping list Flojet Macerator Pump 18555-000A - 12V DC Waste Pump for Camper/RV RESTMO Water Flow Meter with Brass Inlet Twinkle Star Hose Filter Attachment Line Water Hose Filter Water hose quick connects Garden hose Goal: Transfer from grey to black utilizing the black flush out inlet port. I’d rather not make more drastic changes to the trailer so let’s see if this works Attempt #1 The pump comes with a quick switch which is handy, its sitting near the Jackery. I got a 12V cig line and used the included pump battery alligator clips to attach to that. Results: Unsuccessful, the Jackery 12V kept turning off so I kept hitting the 12V switch. The flow meter showed no transfer, but water did flow. The pump was running and the orange hose did fill up with water, but it seemed there was little transfer occurring. First I tested the flow meter to see if it was working on a fresh water outlet, it’s fine so there’s just not much flow happening. OK, so I got a 120VAC-12VDC adapter I had handy and used the 120V on the Jackery (you can see the adapter there) but that was even less successful. Conclusion: Probably not enough power. Now how can I get more power into this pump? I looked at the truck, nah too much trouble and maybe not enough line. Do I have a spare battery around? How much does the 12V outlet on the truck supply? I’ve got 7kW out the back (electric truck), maybe a higher power inverter? Or how much can the Oliver 12V cig sockets output? I looked up musing on this problem, looked at the side of the trailer, and wondered “how many engineers does it take to change a lightbulb?” The answer was right there in front of me, embarrassing, the pump even comes with battery alligators …. 🤯😅 Attempt #2 Success! The flow rate seemed a little low compared to the rated GPM. I took a video and will calculate, maybe the resistance through the cleanout jets reduces it. In theory this will stress the pump, but it’s not something being used all the time and I kept an eye on how warm the pump got. Seemed fine … So I’ll take this as a viable solution. Far less space than hauling along a today. There was no solids being caught by the filter. I try to keep solids out of the grey but anyhow not an issue. Good enough for today, I closed up shop Future direction: the only problem is having a neat solution. The lines are filled with residual water you don’t want around the campsite. A bucket (I have a collapsable with lid that’ll work great), or no leak quick connects (if such a think exists) maybe too. KISS, I think I like the bucket solution better. Overall it’s a small tidy package. The whole thing can be stored in the bumper if you take the pump out of its case. But it’s a really nice case with real latches, so I keep that in the back storage and the rest of it in the bumper.

Hey I just got it and already did a Tennessee trip this year! 😅 Anyhow still working, close to retirement so one big trip is all that can be managed

Nope, doesn’t happen. The truck was absolutely coated with goo several times and the Ollie nose, but the windows literally get nothing, not even any dirt to speak of. The front edge of the outdoor power socket and edge of the Truma door get it though. The windows have been trouble and maintenance free in over 3k miles. Pro tip to make them even more maintenance free is to SiO2 them. Water beads and runs off beautifully too, I use Griots Garage SiO2 window treatment. It’s not as serious as a full body coat, less concentrated, but it’ll last 3-6 months. Hey even the Secret Service uses it on the Beast.

Well maybe it was done in some past year but AFAIK 2026 is unique in that it I think is the only one with ‘crack open’ flush mount windows and roller shades, with valances on the top. Plus the long running Truma integrated system. One year only and boom - take it all out and go to a fully open window with new (presumably custom Oliver designed) shade frame. And too all new appliances. And yes the 2027 windows look like the same ones in the 2026 just with a different opening mechanism. This year's model opens a couple inches from a single handed center crank. Next year it looks like you open all the shades (including bug shade!) to access two side props in a two handed operation. So none of that at night half asleep. But the window does a 1/8 or 1/4 open. Otherwise it looks like the same window which is not recessed and overlays the windows frame and shell. It’s zero issue. Not sure there’s any more glass protection slightly recessed as previously or overlay as now. On the road debris will follow the air flow regardless. If anything recessed will create a slight low pressure pulling it in with vortices and such. Anyhow the only protection is the present overlay system as that protects the more vulnerable frame and especially gasket. It’s maintenance free whereas the present one has weep holes and such. I love the new window system and was ecstatic when I heard it was coming on the year I happened to be buying. It was long on my list, Escape pioneered this in eggs and I learned about the style there (except they use acrylic windows). For Oliver it completes the ‘marine style’ design. The only exposed gaskets they have now are the 120V socket and a few odds and ends like the roof gubbins.

These ones you mean, the 2026 (only) variant? Or maybe you’re talking about the previous up to 2025 model. No worries doesn’t bother me, but I’d suggest it’s hard to know for sure unless you live with them. The only point I’m making is that the single handed opening is awfully nice. The crack does what it’s supposed to - let in plenty of air, and just the single knob means waking up at night because it’s gotten too cold it’s trivial to close while still half asleep. I do it all the time - love it. And also appreciate how the valances soften the interior. I will agree however that the roller shades are a little clumsy, you can knock into them at night. But it’s a classic look that softens up all the plastic and ‘glass IMO. Anyhow I’m just surprised they switched so quickly. Only people I’ve heard complain about the ‘26 windows was a tech at the factory who wanted them ‘to open wider’. Except he didn’t own one so 🤷‍♂️ They’re basically flush and no issues with wind. In fact I’ve driven at freeway speeds having forgotten and left them open 😅 but no problem. The key though is hidden gaskets. Oliver uses a marine design elsewhere is that the gaskets are hidden, like with the battery door. This is how they do it on boats, to keep gaskets out of the H20, salt and UV. I’ve seen videos where owners replace the recessed window gaskets with black ones because they pick up dirt and wear. Oh - cars too, notice how few of the gaskets on your cars are exposed - same design principle. Have the door/hood/whatever cover them where possible. But no worries they’re all good, we’re just nerding out here 🙂 Yeah I was diagnosing a user error and did a deep dive into it. Turns out Xantrex has been heavily iterating over the years, the latest version in the 2026 and presumably 2027 is not the same as earlier versions by a long shot. There’s two types of engineering failure I think - just bad engineering and ‘learning’ engineering. Personally I’m not faulting Truma for the recall issue, I don’t think that casts a shadow on them in general. Heck I bossed a German engineering team in Germany once, these guys are nuts and have a lot of pride. I think the fault is other RV OEM’s who didn’t do a recall like Oliver. And on Xantrex the number of iterations makes me suspect they just had a learning curve to go through. Bad engineering are the companies that just don’t learn and don’t iterate. Anyhow hoping to have good service with Truma and Xantrex. On Lithionics I believe in the company, watch some of the factory walkthroughs, they’re serious about this. Lots of fly-by-night companies doing batteries out there. We’re paying for the BMS and prismatic pouches, not some guys throwing a bunch of cylinders in there like everybody else.

Yeah exactly the tiny drawer in front of the sink. Shorter because the sink takes the depth. I was keeping cleaning supplies there but was kind of wasted as that was just for storing them while traveling. Anyhow I’ve since put the collapsable buckets and cleaning stuff in another drawer leaving this one. Not much else you can do with it but easy and perfect for the spices. I guess you could use it for bigger utensils, but I have the Foy utensils divider which takes everything. Problem is regular spice jars are too tall, I was using the OXO camping spice kit, but then that’s kicking around. So happy to find these slightly undersized ones.