GarryandKristi

https://itcshopnow.com/products/exterior-shower-service-parts?utm_campaign=gs-2022-01-13&utm_source=google_shopping&utm_medium=smart_campaign&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=22045544770&gbraid=0AAAAABSkRKi20j-rTiz8hmdaZS038ZTU5&gclid=CjwKCAjwyOzSBhBTEiwAmxvJ-mjQQfh7TiHQdheqRWzOQTgUzqKb5pQCZ6wZOJeMZbufqY5UqFFcpRoCVEQQAvD_BwE&variant=32367970320420 nasty looking link. I had my wife operate the shower handle outside while I looked under the hatch to see where the lead was emanating. I would tell it was from the center of the plastic assembly and not the hose. You might want to have a few shop towels if you do this to wipe up inside. Our leak weeped over to the basement area under the rubber mat.

I can also recommend Suncoast designers in Hudson FL. We just had all of our sliders on our 2018 elite 2 done. They were hazy from moisture and/or mineral build up. They removed, cleaned reassembled and reinstalled all windows. They removed them early day 1 and had them reinstalled by the end of day 2. Cost for the 4 windows plus tax was $1,798. It is only $150 addional per window if new glass is required. One of the techs said he had done an Oliver prior to ours. They were very friendly. They have hookups so you can stay late afternoon to early morning in your trailer. I commented to the woman at the desk how quickly the work was done and she said summers are slower for them. There were a couple other class A rigs there during our short stay. We had a long haul from North Carolina, but a place I checked in Greensboro that does similar work quoted me a price more than double that of Suncoast and told me they would need the trailer for a month. He had said I wouldn’t be satisfied with just cleaning existing panes. Our windows cleaned and reinstalled by Suncoast look great. They have a lifetime warranty limited to the existing owner. They will do the same entire process but of course you either need to travel to their facility or ship the windows and remove and reinstall the windows yourself and pay shipping.

We had the same leaking problem with our 2018 elite 2. Yes, the shower box is riveted, and I am not sure what the rivet grin length would be since the back side is not exposed inside the trailer. But it is quite easy to replace the assembly within the box. It’s only $17 from ITC The key for me was to finally discover that what looked to be one piece hot and cold knobs with a press-on spline fitting actually has a pop-off cap that exposes a screw hole. The “aha” that’s what those 2 small screws are for in the assembly package. So 1. Remove the hot and cold knobs 2. Unscrew the outside retaining nuts just behind the the knobs 3. Go inside under the street-side forward hatch and unthread the hot and cold supply line and shower head flex line 4. Back out th’e entire assembly installation of the new assembly is essentially reverse although I secured the outside retaining nuts prior to reconnecting the inside hoses. Finally pressure check with a city water connection while operating. I believe the tube vent acts primarily as a drain as when I turned the knob(s) off water poured out. Since the supply lines would be under pressure, I am not sure it serves much as an anti-siphon valve. I think it just drains the mixing point downstream of the hot/cold valves. In the photos the new assembly is shown near the bed hatch.

Had an issue with our pump (2018 LE2) just a few days ago. Thought it would likely be one of the switches. These are (effectively) double throw-single pole switches (there are 3 unused connectors so switches are technically double throw-double pole) in cabin and bath with 2 traveler wires with +12 v in the middle spade connector, so if one combination of switch orientation between the cabin and bath didn’t work the other should of it’s a traveler spade connector disconnecting. I first looked visually at the 15 amp fuse under the dinette and it looked ok. Next morning I tried the different water pump switch combos between cabin and bath to no avail. The switch leds were off all this time. I then pulled the fuse to check for continuity on my multi-meter and it checked out ok. When reinstalling the fuse I heard the pump actuate and the led flickered a few times before turning solid. I think the issue was likely the pressure switch. There are 2 red leads at the front of the pump and I think these are are on opposite poles of the pressure switch and the switch had gotten stuck. The ground wire connection seemed ok so I am convinced it was not the switch spade connectors being loose. Anyway I would have never thought pulling and reinstalling a fuse would remedy the issue. The switches must have been in the on combination for this to happen. Not sure how the leds are wired as they should be lit in either state of the pressure switch (connected/disconnected).

Goal: Eliminate house battery drain due to DC fridge while traveling to arrive at dry camping sites with a fully charged battery. Hybrid to refers to keeping existing charge wire when adding another charge line of heavier gage. After upgrading to a lithium battery (300 AH Epoch) I wanted to be able to negate the amp draw from our 3-way fridge (dometic RM2454) and other small loads that total about 16-17 amps. That fridge used a 100% or nearly duty cycle on DC. I purchased a Renogy 20 amp DC-DC charger. Initially I replaced the 14 awg gage wire Oliver spliced from the 12 awg pigtail power wire terminus to the charger with 10 awg. Why Oliver went to a smaller gage than the pigtail is beyond me although this was back in 2018. I also spliced a 10 gage wire to the pigtail common 10 gage that Oliver in its wisdom had also spliced to a smaller gage wire. This worked fine if I triggered the current limiting feature that reduce the charging current to half (10 amps) of the rated. When I tried to charge at 20 amps it only produced about 14 amps and resulted in a very warm pigtail plug as you might suspect. So I relented and decided to run 8awg wire through my pickup (2015 RAM 1500) and Oliver E2 - but with the intent of also using the pigtail charge wire to carry some amperage. Doing some calculations using the wire resistance of 10 and 8 awg and knowing that the voltage would be the same at the junction I planned near the charger input I figured about 2/3 of the amperage would be carried by the new 8 awg line but after installation found that it actually carried 3/4 of the amperage probably in part by neglecting the loss through the tiny 12 v wire pin in the 7-pin socket on the pickup. The ground pin has about 3x the surface area of all the other wire pins in the socket Fiberglass rods that I had were helpful in running wire and I only used a 2 or 3 foot ground leg to the chassis frame rail near the bumper so essential just ran the positive wire under the truck. I had to remove the front of the bathroom sink to pull site into the trailer. I have read that some have run wire without messing with the sink but they must be magicians! I tap into the trailer running light wire (green) to activate the charger. First results after an initial camping trip were good. When testing at idle I measure 25 amps in to get 20 out and a voltage drop of 1.1 volt from about 14.0 at the battery (I had calculated a 1 volt drop and I guess got lucky. So I wasn’t going after the big amps as my objective and figured I could run smaller gage wire in tandem with the existing pigtail to meet my needs. 30 amp fuse off positive battery terminal Andersen-type plug with t-handle above bumper entrance gland/strain relief (1/2 inch) behind propane tanks on left input on right (8awg after junction of 8 and 10 awg) and output on left (10 awg). I rummaged an old DPDT switch and used one side of it to activate the current limiting feature that should not be needed after running the 8 gage wire.

I have a 300 AH epoch battery and just kept my PD converter charger (2018 Oliver) and moved the jumper to the Li position. I believe it charges at 14.8 volts constantly but I don’t see a problem with this. The Epoch has overcharge protection with its BMS and you can switch off the MOS “charge” toggle switch via the epoch app so it won’t charge after you have topped it off and are on shore power. Others have said they trip the AC charge breaker when fully charged on shore power. I have not had any issues with just using the old PD converter/charger since I bought the battery over a year ago. I do not have solar.

I just installed an Epoch 300 AH battery to replace our original 4-6 volt trojan agms. I have a victron shunt so I can monitor things. I did not disconnect the charge wire. So far I can only get 2.5 amps or so through the 7 pin depending on voltage difference of TV battery and smart alternator and TT. I went to the trouble of installing a normally open relay in the Oliver to isolate the batteries, and can attempt charging by turning on lights (trigger for relay). The black wire on the far right stud between the relay and the circuit breaker is the charge line from the 7 pin. Left studs are for trigger off green lights wire and ground. So, right now not much difference from just disconnecting although I need to make sure the charge and ground wires off the umbilical weren’t spliced to a smaller gage wires and test disconnecting the feedback to the smart alternator and see if it will output a constant high voltage.

I’d be very surprised if your Oliver has 10 awg wire for both charge and ground wire. Ours (2018 elite 2) has 12 awg charge and 14 awg ground. However as @John E Davies mentioned (I think in another post) he noticed a splice inside the trailer in which the wire gage was reduced. I need to check this myself in hopes of getting a tad more amperage. You may have already completed your charge modifications, but I can vouch that with the existing 7 pin and wiring, and especially with Lithium hose batteries you’ll be lucky to get any charging. I only get 2 or 3 amps. I like John’s idea of not having to mess with TV and TT wiring and just being satisfied with somewhere in the range of 11 to 18 amps. In our case that would at least offset the adsorption fridge draw of about 15 amps. I added a relay in our oliver that is triggered by the taillight (green) 7 pin wire so at least I could isolate the batteries and only attempt to charge (turn lights on) when the conditions are good. With the newer “smart” alternators sufficient voltage to charge with the existing 7 pin setup is dubious. There is no way that a 7-pin system can cause overcharging and too much lithium house battery draw as the voltage potential difference is just not there and much amp draw would increase the voltage drop and lessen the voltage potential difference. I am considering unplugging the wire from the shunt on the negative post of our truck battery to get a constant higher voltage from the alternator - at least for a test. If it seems ok I would only disconnect for times were were both traveling quite a distance and then dry camping. I am just not sure of what other electrical systems might do with the smart alternator feedback interrupted.

and much easier to “fabricate”.

Agreed. We actually exhausted our nearly 6 year old agms with 2 days of dry camping and to get the front jack lifted I had to plug in the 7 pin cable. That did the trick and was easier than dragging out the generator. It certainly offsets the refrigerator drain on DC setting while traveling between sites. Very glad we have the 3-way fridge to operate on propane while Dry camping. Also glad we have a separate inverter and not the new inverter/charger in which everything has to be run through the inverter. Ours is a 2018 model.

I had the same issue with the remote not working about 2 years ago. I removed the control board and thoroughly cleaned it (I believe with isopropyl alcohol and or vinegar as a mild acid). Reinstalled and it resumed working. Wish I had coated the board at that time. Issue has just reappeared after I entered the traIler and the fan was spontaneously running at max speed and the operator was in a dozen pieces. Original operator appeared to be cheap pot metal and replacement from etrailer doesn’t appear to be a whole lot better. Fan still works using the button board. Am thinking about pulling the control board again and cleaning and coating. May also install a voltage regulator. By the way, our fan fuse is in the sub-panel in the attic (7.5 amp). Hull number is 372 (2018).

The resistance of the factory 7-pin small gage wire would limit current draw so shouldn’t damage your alternator. Don’t know how much the wire would heat up due to line loss.

I agree with your thoughts. Short cycling is the most likely problem. We get this in our dometic penguin that came with the elite II in 2018. Air conditioners are by nature dehumidifiers (they why they have condensate lines). Having to run a dehumidifier seems like poor design when you have AC so it must be a sizing and/or fan speed issue. We’ve lived in the south for many years and never have had issues with humidity in our house even with outside dew points in the upper 70s. And that is even with a whole house ventilation system with some outside air being pulled in. Of course house hvac systems are far better than rv systems in design, etc.

Relative humidity is a pretty worthless measure of moisture in the air as it changes with ambient temperature (rh is the amount of moisture, or vapor pressure to the amount of moisture or vapor pressure at saturation) and warm air can hold more moisture than cold air. I am a big fan of dewpoint (temperature at which moisture condenses in the air) which doesn’t change unless you get a different air mass. I suspect the issue is running the fan constantly versus on auto so unconditioned air is being pulled in. We run our dometic on low (not auto) so the startup of fan/compressor isn’t so alarming. I do notice an immediate change in humidity with our domestic when the compressor turns off (but fan still runs). With a quiet AC it would be better to run it on auto so that the fan is not running when the compressor is off. So I am thinking it is not so much to do with the manufacturer/unit as it is the mode of operation.

We love these gutters as it has solved the perpetual battle to clean (with nominal success in the battle to prevent water ingress) the weep/drainage holes and channels for the windows. I applied in summer so the temps were warm/hot and adhesion was good. Also, as John mentioned, having a decent length of straight run beyond the curved section helps anchor things.