Snackchaser

We will be traveling overseas in a few days and I may not be able to respond for a while. Hopefully we'll be returning with our daughter who has been waiting 10 years to get through the legal immigration process🙏 Anyway, you're on the right track now, only remember that a current leak does not have to be on the specific component related to the mode. It also could be related to the neutral which is common in all 3 modes. Albeit, a neutral ground fault needs to be lower resistance for current to take the ground path. Think of it like this; 1 ohm or less is a direct short, under 1k on the neutral could cause a ground fault trip, anything under 25k on the hot side will cause a ground fault trip, anything up to a meg ohm is not great, but it might not trip the GFCI, and over a meg ohm is good insulation. Your right to relate the problem to heat, only the heat is just exposing an insulation weakness that is causing a ground fault enough to trip the GFCI. Do your testing after the breaker trips when it is still hot, or try a heat gun all over suspect insulation. Test hot and cold, and remember the resistance will change a little with temperature swings. Look for more significant changes. Since the power cord might have been pinched the first time you removed the oven, the heat could be softening the insulation at the pinch point causing current leakage there. It might not be easily seen, so It's worth examining very closely or just replacing the cord as a cheap first step. Hope that gives you something to start with. Good luck!

It still sounds like the oven is failing. Something probably has a high resistance short to ground when it gets hot, and it un-shorts after it cools. A GFCI doesn’t trip on heat or overcurrent, rather it detects a current imbalance such as a high resistance short to ground. It only takes about 5 to 8 milli amps to trip a GFCI, and you have tripped several different ones. The most likely culprits are the heating element or fan, and they can short due to moisture which explains why the microwave sometimes trips it. For example, if the heating element insulation breaks down when it gets hot or damp and leaks current to ground, then the GFCI will trip. However, this condition will not trip a normal breaker, or the ovens thermal protection elements. BTW, a thermo element will open the circuit, but that does not cause a GFCI trip. Your 0.02 ohms reading is fine. Don’t modify the cabinet either, because it’s not excessive heat that trips the GFCI. BTW, I’m sure you know this, but please be careful when removing the oven covers, the microwaves high voltage capacitor can give a nasty shock even when the oven is unplugged! You seem to have electrical knowledge, so PM me if you want help with some simple troubleshooting and possible repair of the oven rather than replacing it. It may take some back and forth that's better done outside of the forum. Good luck, Geoff

The Federal and State Trade Commissions say that companies are legally required to fix defects or honor claims reported during the active warranty period. Unfortunately, many companies are not aware of that. They are not obligated to honor claims identified after the warranty expires, but sometimes it's just the right thing to do.

I'd guess that one reason to use single valves rather than 3-way valves, is for ease of configuration. I ran into this when I replaced my single valves with 3-way electric valves, they have to be oriented correctly to get the correct flow paths and that meant there was piping loop-arounds to reach the correct ports. If looking at the flow paths for L-port or T-port 3-way valves, they will not work in @topgun2 drawing without a different pipe configuration... and then the simplicity is lost! Single valves are easier to configure in that tight space without loop-arounds, and they are easier to show in valve line-up sketches.

No worries! It gives us something to do! That is a Wago connector to splice two wires together. It has little levers on it so that you can pull the wires out. Other connectors might look similar, but without the lever, and the wires won't come out! Glad you found it! Happy camping!

I'm a little confused because you've said there is no power on either side of the optifuse, but you've also said that it tests good? Also, you mention a 2000 watt inverter, where you talked about a converter before. These are different things and wired differently. BTW, a 2000 watt inverter should have another ~200 amp breaker or fuse between the inverter and battery. That's not the problem, but you should be aware of it. Mine is mounted on the vertical wall above the inverter. At any rate, the battery and/or the inverter both feed the 12 volt panel (and jacks) via the 60 amp optifuse breaker. Re-check it for 12v from each terminal to ground. There are grounds all over the place in that area, the jack post, trailer frame, or the inverter chassis will work. If there is voltage on the line side, but no voltage on the load side, then you have a bad breaker. These breakers are readily available, and the failure rate is pretty low for the millions of them out there.

From the looks of those long tanks, and knowing that the level sensors are on the ends, just a few degrees off lengthwise level could result in significant tank level inaccuracies! Good picture! @Hokieman

That's a Through-hull marine fitting. Oliver probably added the insect screen. I looked at mine with a mirror and it doesn't have that black stuff. Me thinks it's clogged! I'd try poking a piano wire through the mesh while slowly adding water to the tank to see if it flushes out. Catch it in a white container to see what it is.

High pressure could cause enough turbulence to splash water up to the overflow tube creating gurgling and an air lock. An air lock can effectively block the vent tube. It's not uncommon, even with large industrial tanks! It's also possible that floating debris blocked the overflow tube as the tank filled, then it floated away afterwards. This is intermittent and it's happened with hole-saw plugs that were left in the tank during fabrication. I've always instinctively filled the freshwater tank very slowly, just a crack of the valve. The overflow tube is no match for my hose pressure and volume, and the tank is not designed to be pressurized.

Those are probably the emergency breakaway switch for the breaks and the CO monitor. They take a direct feed from the battery.

Looks like they installed a flexible tube and left a twist in it. You might try loosening a clamp and twisting the kink out. Unfortunately that kink could be set and it seems like too a tight bend even for a replacement piece. Oliver should address that despite the expired warranty, it was just a poor installation from the start. Good luck, Geoff

It looks like you're missing the hold-down jack screw. See my post: "A different refrigerator fan option" for a picture of it. It looks like the nut part is still there from your photo, so the bolt might be laynig in there somewhere. Look behind the master switch panel, through the round marine port access, that is where it's tightened or loosened from. Good luck, Geoff

First I’ll confess that I have no knowledge of how your trailer is equipped, or how it's wired. However, you have given enough clues to narrow it down: You likely have a 30 or 45 amp converter/charger that's an internal module of the 12 volt DC and 120 volt AC distribution panel. The 60 amp breaker is likely a direct feed from the battery to the converter/charger/distribution panel. It's no surprise you read 12 volts because it’s connected directly to the battery. The AC section of your distribution panel is probably fine because you have power to the microwave. The reason that the refrigerator and air conditioner aren’t working is because they need 12 volts DC for the controls and thermostat. Given all that, you likely have a blown internal fuse in the converter/charger, or a burned termination of the large red wire coming from the 60 amp breaker. Look in your documents for the converter/charger manual, it should show the fuse location within the module. Be sure to disconnect shore power and open the 60 amp breaker before poking around in there. Good luck, Geoff

You can safely put a maximum of 200 watts into the auxiliary Zamp solar port. It is polarity wired for a Zamp solar controller which is opposite of some controllers, so verify polarity of your panel and controller before plugging it in. Polarity reversing adapters are available for the Zamp port if needed. Your 400 watt panel would need a 30/40 amp controller, larger wiring, and a 30-40 amp fuse. Check panel rating plate and ask google to be sure.

I’ve been using Starlink in the Northwest for years, since being a beta tester for the first generation round dishy. Iv’e found that a pole mounted dish often get better sky-view angle over trees. I have a simple pole mount using a 10' stick of Electrical Metallic Tubing (EMT) that I carry under the trailer frame (see Tacky Starlink Dishy Mast). It was an easy and inexpensive mod, quick to set up, and it doubles as a flagpole if you're feeling patriotic. I stopped using a tripod stand a long time ago. When not using the pole, I just lay the Mini on whatever is near by, or even on the ground. A permanent mount is not optimal in tree county. We don’t use a dedicated carry case either, we just toss it on the bed or on the back seat. I’m all for having less stuff to pack up and carry. The Mini is watertight and robust, and you would be hard pressed to damage it. I prefer running the Mini from DC power over using the inverter for AC power. It's more power-efficient, especially if you leave it on 24/7 like us. The wattage losses from converting DC to AC, then back to DC add up. So I use a Victron DC voltage booster and it’s been a popular solution that has worked flawlessly for years. See: Starlink Mini installation, cracking the 12 Vdc barrier . . . or not! It’s nice having a portable battery pack for backup at times when there is no sky-view at camp, or to share internet with your buddies. I made a bunch of the “Everlanders” designed rechargeable slim packs that last several hours, but commercial options are also available. We depend on the internet for cell service, so battery packs or inverter AC power is not a good permanent solution for us. The bargain priced Mini router is usually not needed... until it is. Keep in mind that the farther you get from the dish, the weaker the WiFi signal, and the slower the internet. Weak WiFi can be mistaken for poor satellite reception, so try the router if you're seeing the spinning wheel of frustration! These can also be powered by 12 volts DC. See: The new Starlink Mini Router, for what ails you! for power options. So anyway, that's my two cents. Have fun in BC, but watch out for cell phone roaming charges, and don’t bring any produce back! We just got detained on the USA side last week because we declared a couple ears of BC of corn. They could have just taken the corn, but instead they made us maneuver the trailer into the humiliation parking area, then kept us waiting in the detention facility for an hour while they searched our stuff and freaked out the dog! But I have to say, the lab did a nice job at de-lousing and folding our shopping bag! Cheers! Geoff

One area of quality that I've never seen discussed, is the level and plumb of interior cabinets. Our kitchen counters are way off level from the floor, and from any other area where you might normally check for level when parking. Consequently, we have to set level from the kitchen countertop, to keep the stove level, and then everything else is off level. That might be a good delivery checklist item, because I would have never accepted that condition, but I didn't discover it until we got back to California. It looks like the countertop could be removed and leveled out easy enough, but then the drawers would still roll out on their own with the floor level.

Charlie, Based on your measured values, I’d first look at the battery cable to battery post connection(s): 1. If the 12.7 volt measurement was taken directly from the battery posts, then the battery is not dead. 2. The solar directly feeds the battery via the Zamp controller. It does not pass through the inverter or the main battery breaker. So the 11.7 voltage read from the Zamp controller is more likely a voltage drop through the battery post connection(s), not the main breaker. 3. The inverter also shows 11.7 volts, with no load, so it could also be reading a voltage drop through the battery post connection(s). That’s a reasonable analysis, and battery post corrosion is a common problem with AGM batteries. Sometimes the lead battery posts become oxidized. Although they appear fine, oxidization is a poor conductor. Having said all that, you possibly have a different setup or a poor main ground connection. Some simple voltage tests at various connection points would quickly isolate the problem if cleaning the battery posts does not fix the issue. Hope that helps. Cheers, Geoff

GJ, You are correct on all counts! Good logical thinking, and good luck with the yellow wire mess! Geoff

You've lost a ground connection! There are several yellow "home-run" ground conductors in the space behind the master switch panel. Each of them splits off to feed various circuits including a ground wire to each of the switches for the LED indicators. It's a tangled mess of yellow wires and splices in that space, and the loss of one of those ground connections could cause all the symptoms you described. Start from a switch where the LED is not working, and trace its yellow wire to the multi wire splice. Use the ohm or continuity setting on your multimeter to verify there is continuity to ground. See the post titled "I was awakened by flashing blue lights!" to see a picture of those ground splices, and to see how each switch has a yellow ground wire for the LED indicator. Also note that some of those ground splices are jumpered together. If you fed your LevelMate (+) from the hot side of the awning switch, then I assume that you probably tapped into one of those grounds for the (-). If that's true, then that splice would be a prime suspect! Hope that helps! Cheers, Geoff

Those are momentary motor reversing switches (spring return to center). Don't get a latching switch! A knock-off version is available from Amazon https://a.co/d/01EAzrSv . They are okay. Amazon includes the waterproof rubber cap, but many suppliers don't. No worries because they are available at ACE hardware and auto part stores. You can also use a center off or momentary Double Throw Double Pole DPDT switch in an emergency, but you would have to make your own jumpers as can be seen in your picture. Judging from the jumper wire in your picture, it looks like your switch was wired with the power leads going to the center terminals. That jumper wire is power for the lamp switch, and it's doubled up with the +12v power wire for the jack. Normally the power wires are on the outer terminals per the Barker jack wiring diagrams, but it makes no difference electrically. The lamp -12v wire is spliced to the jacks ground. Your jack motor leads go to the outer terminals (polarity is not important yet). With wires hooked up, look at the position of the notch or flat side of the switch threads for correct alignment with the jack housing. Then try the switch to verify that the jack is going the right direction. Just reverse the motor leads on the switch to change direction if needed. Use a piece of heat shrink over all the switches terminal spades. This prevents shorts, but more importantly it helps hole the spade terminals from coming off. Sometimes it's also necessary to pinch the wire terminals for better grip on the switch spades. Hope that is not too confusing! Cheers, Geoff

We had that same problem until we tried a product called 30 Seconds Outdoor Cleaner. My wife uses it to off clean mildew on the outside of the house. I tried it on our hopelessly stained white window weatherstripping and after a 30 second soak they looked new. Perhaps it doesn't work on all stains, but it might be worth a try! 30 SECONDS Outdoor Cleaner Concentrate 1 gal Mfr# 1G30SJ - Ace Hardware.pdf

I read two issues here, the vent cover does not stay closed, and the hose comes loose? The vent cover has louvers that do not tightly close, I'm surprised that mine have not broken as many times as they have been kicked. I don't have a fix for that. However, if the hose is coming loose, you can add new screws. It was originally fastened with screws that went through the hose and into the plastic vent. Then taped. I was able to get the screws out, but it was near impossible to put new ones back in the tight space. Rather I put screws in from the inside of the vent and was able to get tape on using little pieces. See the picture:

Hey Chris, Looks like you have plenty of good advice and help available, but I'm happy to help out if still needed. There is not much room behind that pantry switch, but it should be fairly easy to find that disconnected wire and pull it back through. My trailer has just a single switch for the courtesy light, not a 3-way. But regardless, it's a simple circuit. Drop me a message if you need extra help and I can stop by. Geoff

After reading through this thread, it seems that either the shore power GFCI breaker or the inverter GFCI breaker trips after running the microwave in the convection mode for a few minutes. That sure sounds like the convection oven is failing! A crack in the heating element could cause a low current leakage path to ground when it gets hot enough. It only takes several milliamps to trip the GFCI and it will reset after the oven cools down and the leakage path goes away. A standard thermo/magnetic breaker may not detect this condition and the element would probably just burn out after a while. A winding in the oven fan has the same possible failure mode, but it could take longer to completely fail. I'd try plugging the microwave directly into an extension cord that is plugged into a GFCI. This will confirm if the oven works, or needs to be replaced. Good luck and let us know what you find. Geoff

The check valve is the second brass piece from the water heater, with two hex ends. If you magnify the photos, you can just see the directional arrow on the top side between the hex ends.