BoondockingAirstream

How About THIS ONE, under the second seat at Table. No fuse inside this RED Plastic.

I will have to find a 12v Test Lamp. But you have offered some good information. Pulling the Break Away Switch... the spinning wheels will stop immediately. Solid and firm. Replug and they spin easily without resistance. Connect to Tow Vehicle... 'Trailer Connected' ... squeeze the manual brake controller in the 2019 F350... and a notice 'Trailer Disconnected'. Works fine on our 2019 27FBQ Airstream. Seems to be in between the 7 Pin Plug and the Axles. I found a Fuse Holder (RED) without a fuse. Below the second seat at the Table. Does someone know its function? Obviously without a fuse, everything inside the Oliver works.

Steve Thanks. Now everyone knows. This is information that is often found by those with experience! Learning one 'fuse' at a time. I will plug it back. My Electric Brakes seem to have a Fuse issue or Wire inside the Oliver. Maybe a simple fuse, reset or something that is between the operating brakes and 7 pin plug. Or a wire not making contact in a wire bundle under the table or bed access areas. Wow. Again that was quick.

This fuse is under the street side bed and half way up the right side among other wiring hardware. What does this Fuse Protect? What is it called? I am trying to hunt down an obscure reason why my Trailer Brakes are not recognized, when my 2019 Oliver Elite II to my 2016 F350 Diesel. I plug in and when press the F350 Brakes... disconnected. My 2019 Airstream has no issue with the Brake Controller. So it is the Oliver and some wiring issue? Pull the Trailer Disconnect when spinning wheels on either side... they immediately lock up firmly. Insert the Pin and power is disconnected and free wheeling with no effort. Have a Post on Oliver #448 and trying to find the... obscure... problem, but following wiring using a flashlight is the best I can do at the moment.

New 7 Pin Plug, wiring solid, no change. Snug fit and everything worked, but back to hunting down a wire from... the Original Wire Bundle under the Street Side?

At this point... I have run out of WIRES to investigate. Common Sense tells me this could be the Rosetta Stone. If not, a truly Dead End... no Fairy to help after this. (Got a second opinion with Wife, upside down, and noticed that it is attached to a long metal boxy 'container'. Even with the Black and Blue wires... Our combined detective work: Level Meter for one of the tanks: 'GREY' water tank. Even with the wire colors... I am back where I started. )

Using the color illustration of the Legacy Elite II Trailer Harness Electrical... the only item up for discussion seems to be the 'Ground Bar'. Is that the bar under the seat with a dozen or so wires? None are labeled. Lots of Yellow Wires. Is this the source for the Brake Grounding attachment? The Brakes have Power when the Break Away Switch is engaged. They lock up immediately. We spin each side and those passed the Rewire... just finished. Someone may have some advice. The connections all seem tight and secure. It there another location once the power leaves the Ground Bar to Brakes? 13 Yellow wires & 4 White wires... from a quick glance. All screws have a wire. One has no screw, but looks threaded on the Right Side of the bar. There are 3 bundles? with the plastic around the wire(s) on the Right side. I did not look if they had one or more wires... any suggestions? The wiring diagram is missing all of this.

The On Board Jacks are for those who walk inside the Oliver when parked, and are sensitive to the movement once parked and inside. NOT FOR SUPPORTING WEIGHT OF THE OLVIER. We have never used them. We are not... a Prince and Princess. Myself, an OLD guy, with attitude,... and lots of previous experience doing dumb stuff when a teenager.. This is an Oliver Elite II with four wheels. The Oliver with one axle WOULD BE A DIFFERENT and you would be 100% correct. Just not this time. JACK POINT decal behind back axle tires. Lifts one or both wheels off the Earth. The hydraulic Jack was used to get the tire lifted, remove the lug nuts and remove the wheel and tire for easier access, and secure this point. Nice hydraulic jack, as well. Use it on the Airstream, as well, and... survived. I do not eat Twinkie's, either as they have too much sugar. There is a STICKER that says to USE THIS LOCATION TO LIFT THE TIRE OFF THE GROUND. There were Three Wheels still attached and a hydraulic jack with lumber stabilizing it all. When having to remove a flat tire, the same process would be used. The Hydraulic Jack makes it simple and stable. Would do the same with the F350 tires... No magic here to be confused with this. Recall I use to do OSHA inspections. Unless I have become senile... I should not be allowed to drive. The Front Axle Tires were still mounted onto the Axle. And chocked.... both sides. No need to remove them. The major wire issue all come together on the REAR Axle and through the center of the axle. ********** Added: Mike at Oliver Inc. agreed with my Wife with my process. The Neanderthal is correct and a Human Bean is Wrong. Added: I would appreciate HELP in finding the Ground or wire location from the 7 pin plug creating this short to the brakes. Most likely wires attached to the street side of the Oliver. This may have been a Factory Issue and not something that wore out or broke from use. This may have existed on DAY ONE... and I am Old and inherited this situation. Trust me. My Wife would 'kick my winky' IF I was doing something really Dumb. She is a Human Bean. I learn by making mistakes... but not stupid ones. 🙂 (I EDIT AFTER I GET THE IDEA DOWN ON THE SCREEN. I THINK FASTER THAN I CAN TYPE... SYNDROME.)

JD thanks for the generous offer. We Boondock every Spring for years in the Reserve, New Mexico Area, hunting Agates. Driven through Prescott a few times... a Boom Town with a Forest. No Tech. Watch the numerous videos on the Internet. Great source of getting an.... education. Many Good, some Not. Prescott is in a wonderful location, as the Main Street is like entering a mountain town in Colorado or Wyoming. Everyone lives in the surrounding forests with some having that south view of unlimited views. We actually considered looking for a home there, but Boulder City is in an area much like Prescott, with major cities on the west side of the mountains from us. Good pullout once south of town and down the mountain grade. Remembered that... I rechecked the Extension Cord wire and it is more in the 16 gauge wire once stripped. No tech around here. I resort to 'do it yourself' if nothing else is available. Local service had three months booked. Yikes... lots of Travel Trailer problems for those owners. This should not happen to anyone with an Oliver. Rather blemishes my attitude that something that should be permanent from the Factory... should not have a problem. You pay up front for. the quality and Brake Wiring is the... issue? I had a multimeter years ago. Can describe the carton... looked for it... and not to be found. It would have been 40 years old. Great for Jukebox wiring from the 24 button select simple models looking for wire issues. We may be the only Oliver in Nevada. Nothing to compare with. Hundreds of Airstreams. We stopped at 2019 Models of Airstream and Oliver Elite II as the Propane, Solar, Electricity power options are excellent. The Truma hot water tank was junk and unrepairable, after purchasing the Oliver. Too many wires and coils. I like simple systems. Our Airstream's Dometic six gallon hot water was operating on the Airstream Dealer's Lot... and has not been used after the 2019 checking everything out before purchase. Trusted the seller... my mistake. For anyone buying used... DO NOT PURCHASE USED, UNLESS YOU TEST OUT EVERYTHING. Trusting the Seller may not be the best way to go. Beautiful trailer and I will have this all worked out. Will eventually sell, with the Truma not installed, as I removed the trashed by some service business. I had the Recall Notice, but I did not... qualify, as I pulled it apart and it was NOT REPAIRABLE. Had the uncrimped burner issue. I was not even offered the 'improved burner' as I tried to repair it,.. myself. I wander. Love the Oliver Elite II and our 27 foot Airstream, both are perfect 2019's for Boondocking. Both have a purpose for Boondocking locations. Narrow and clearance is excellent on Olivers. Advice at a RV Service is.... ZERO. No Oliver around Nevada to compare... with. Geologists... experience risks whenever out in the... bush. But the trailer should not be the... problem. Sorry for the diatribe... Ahhhh.

Don't confuse 20 gauge Brake Wires with a 10 gauge Extension Cord wire. (10 gauge is larger diameter than 20 gauge... in wire number confusion) Gauge numbers with larger numbers have smaller diameter copper wires. The Oliver Stock Brake Two Wires at 20 gauge are red. Gauge numbers with small numbers have large wires. My extension cord scan with Three wires at 10 gauge. The flexible cord is pliable and tough. This extension cord slid nice and tight into the 4-5 foot section of water hose. I did not scan it so you may not like white with blue stripped hoses. I do not care. I have it. I used it. I pick up pennies in parking lots. (The dime was found in a parking lot. I have good eye sight, as well.) The Brown hard material is not what I would want to use in MY Oliver if changing wires. The so called 'cheap extension cord' is what I have a few of different lengths. Look at the Diameter of the 110v+ Power Cord that plugs into the side of the Oliver. It is large in diameter. The Airstream has one that when coiled, I can barely carry it. At least I can go to a RV Park... and handle all of the Electricity that is available. When I say 'cheap' extension cord... the original on the LEFT is what you have currently. I used what is on the right. I cut the white wire back and used the Black and Green wires. I could have done it different, but I am a Neanderthal and do not care about the color. Only if it is GOOD. (The glow is not a hot undersized wire... but copper.)

WHY all of the BRAKE ISSUES with wiring? On this Forum and way too many on an Internet Search. My 2019 27FBQ Airstream operates perfectly. If I have a braking issue in the Future... I will make it a point to ADD TO THIS DISCUSSION, ONTO THIS THREAD. Myself, my wiring at 75 years old, could have more experience with wire than I am discussing. Be patient... I am. Do not judge one by their appearance... Shorts of the wiring going through the Rear Axle. Plenty as well. I did not try to break the insulation, but come by and see it in person. Imagination is not a substitute for doing it. I say. But I am a Neanderthal. 🙂 Others pulling out all of the original wiring and 'upgrading'? Inferior wiring? I bet that the wire I used, was packaged and had one or more organizations giving them 100% approval. The wiring used on Antique Wurlitzer Jukeboxes from 1940 to 1949 had rayon (?) covering shielded wire and still... good. What is your experience with wiring? I may have to look over Travel Trailer wiring at Home Depot or Lowes. Purchasing from RV Dealers for an item for less at a Hardware Store? Time will tell. Ugly is not a term for undersized wiring definition. It is called POOR Choices. Will have to look over the wiring used in our 2019 Airstream. Have not had to work on the electrical wiring... yet. I am the Messenger. Everyone has a choice. I look. I saw. I removed and upgraded. Ugly is a bad paint job or poor buff. I have yet to have UGLY Wire. This wire sucked... as did some of the others. Do your 'own wire job' some day and give some experienced wiring knowledge. I did this watching others on the Internet. There are lots of excellent experience... and some... that did not really know anything... and you could tell. Several videos were like watching the person in a classroom. Made me smarter... and more confident. It worked. I stand by my results... not the opinions of others.

Wiring in #448. An expensive Travel Trailer, as an Oliver, should have the BEST WIRING and be 100% RELIABLE for a decade or two decades. When removing the original Break Away Switch to test the Brakes... the eyelet for the wire to pull out... broke off. The 'bakelite' was brittle and I ordered a replacement on the Internet and it arrived the next day. Wonderful service Home Depot. All of these switches appear to be the same with different names. The switch is easy to remove, replace.. with a steel wire... got the rear wheels above the ground... Nancy my wonderful wife... spun the wheels and each wheel locked up as they should. Caveat: You may want to check yours. A year ago, it worked. The replacement was about $10 from Home Depot and delivered to our home the next day. 🙂 Many reports of the wiring going through the REAR AXLE being shorted out... should not happen to anyone. I pulled mine out and was NOT shorted. Dirty and brittle brownish in appearance. The wiring is the cheapest POS wired into a terrible location... for wearing off the insulation. I used an extension cord, picked two colored wires of the three ( heavier gauge than the Oliver option). Then had a section of a flexible water hose to run across the upper back side of the AXLE and pulled the WELL insulated extension cord through it, wired the ends to the rear brake wiring. Then six or seven nylon Zip Ties to secure the hose and inserted cord to the two electric brake wiring. It was easy after viewing a number of videos... helped a lot Lifted each side UP off the ground with my jack where a decal says where to place it... the wheels locked up after pulling the NEW Break Away Switch. I scanned the original wiring on the rear axle brakes. The RED WIRES were TINY. Maybe a bit paranoid now... but if this is Brake Wire Installations for ALL Olivers... oh Boy. I may have lost several pounds from sweat evaporation. It was 105 degrees... but I was in the... shade, so a bit cooler. Maybe. Pull off the rear Wheel to do the wiring. Much easier than working from the back side. My 'nasal hairs' are almost a thick as the RED Wires that went through the AXLE. They have the brown covering.

The 'previous' mentioned Mobile Service called and their 'mobile service person' hurt his back on a previous work project and wanted to reschedule... which I passed upon. I began to self educate myself, viewing similar issues of other travel trailer owners, discovering the shorted wiring in the rear Dexter Axle 'tube'. Wow... this has been going on for decades. At $125 an hour for trailer labor... that is a lot of nickel video poker loose change for us. Our Bankroll is $20 to $40 at the three hand video poker machines and a $5 tip for a cold glass of beer on tap. Hmmm. I can get onto my 'creeper' and get to everything... now. This wiring should have been changed decades ago. A close local Travel Trailer sales and service had a two month waiting list that had, mostly, good reviews. Been under the Oliver yesterday and noticed some work had been done on the rear outside brake wiring... which indicates previous issue possibilities. The Axle Wire which shorts is the original and is the cheapest wire that you would find on an old television... in the dump. Shorted wires in all kinds of RV's and Travel Trailers, same Dexter Axle through the hollow axle and wears to expose wire and shorts out the braking system. Same issues and manufacturers continue with the same procedure. Moved the Oliver outside, onto our down hill, angled driveway to the street, for a better natural lighting. This angle gives me more space to work with than a flat garage surface. Picking up a new 7 pin plug on the trailer... just in case that may be the problem. But not optimistic that will do it. I will have plenty of experience after this... investigation. Thank You... fellow Oliver owners with the same problem and fixed it themselves, giving advice. If all fails... the options are few and expensive.

Wonderful information is flowing like Niagara Falls... I can barely swim and I see the 'mist' going over the edge, I went to the www.airforums.com out or curiosity. Checked: Running Gear- Axles, Brakes, Wheels & Tires. Went to Brakes and Brake Controllers: (The following is a cut and paste. A very nice job. I have a Bargman on the Oliver Elite II presently... just to update FYI.) Airstreams have identical issues, which does not surprise me. I have been lucky with mine buying new off the lot and checking it over before closing the deal. Although Airstream may sell hundreds every year and have thousands on the road. All operate the same kind of electrical brakes. Not good to hear. ************* My cut and paste********** Check your Trailer connector! Unless they have changed, for some reason Airstream uses Bargman (?) 7 pin connector on the trailer pig tail. These double contact ("duck-bill") connectors do not meet the SAE Standards and DO NOT play well with most of the OEM 7 pin sockets that meet the SAE Standard. It is such a problem that I believe all of the big 3 have put out bulletins over the years. Here is a bulletin that RAM put out --- https://www.ramtrucks.com/BodyBuilde...2BI1n%2Bn9n%0A I have that one as I drive a RAM 2500 Cummins. I switched my the connector on the end of the Airstream (2019) to a Pollak 12-706 and all messages about trailer brake disconnected and intermittent problems went away. These Pollak connectors are less than $8 on Amazon and it only takes a few minutes to cut the old one off and wire up the new one. The weird thing was this intermittent error didn't show up at first. However, once it started it progressively got worse. Its been over 2 years now since I changed the connector on the Airstream and have never had an issue since.

I do not offer any repair tips or clues. But... sure can look for them. I noted the Blue Fuse in the fuse box under the 'dining table'. Of course the door opens outward, you crawl under the table and discover that reading glasses are not enough to read the small print. But the BLUE Fuse number was not as clear as the others. Took a photograph, under the table and left room for my head and camera for the photo. My thought was... I had expired into the 'after world'. But photo flashed, I grunted.. she did not call 911. I finished a new possible discovery. Much like Columbus... but without a sail. Here I am. My very old Mac Computer was out of date, now have a new modern computer and things are... different. But this is my practice, like a being a horse, learning to carry a gal on a saddle... kind of experience. No spurs needed... I cooperate very well. If it is this fuse... I will keep it... frame it on the wall... and curse at it once a year on the repair date. I replaced a 15 year old computer than worked fine... but the software needed to use it... made it obsolete. Now a 2019 Oliver Elite II... six years old and turning me back into a Neanderthal that uses a walking stick as a... tool of sorts... if everything else fails? Whack it. What is the Blue Fuse...? Human Beans with an Oliver know. I cannot read the tiny print, backwards and upside down... Have a good day. Mine is coming Wednesday. I hope.

Snackchaser... removed the six screws with snap on covers. Yep... cable bundles down low. Very... non accessible location. Maybe for a chipmunk... but my head is bigger. Flashlight indicated nothing out of the ordinary. Good place to pull the bundles into the main cabin space. Spending way too much time in the Oliver 'John', I say. At least the connections of wires and junctions are easier to fine. Remove the covers and moved them to the Service Tech can get to business. At $175 an hour... in comparison, I am in the $1 a day payroll. This may be first and only Oliver Elite II in Nevada. I am the second owner. Now a gopher... go for this or that... for the Tech. Ice Water... no problem. Need a snack no problem. Need advice... keeping my mouse trap tight and quiet. I am an observer. Not a chipmunk chattering about fires in the Grand Canyon... geez. What next. Lost our great Off the Grid Boondocking campsite on the Rim. We have a Composting Toilet. Does that affect braking? Just kidding... I think.

When I inquired to Oliver Inc. I was told that the Brake wiring bundle goes into the Bathroom Toilet/Sink area. I pulled out my Garage 'scooter', laid onto it and scooted to find three threaded tubes going into the bathroom, behind the panel with six screws. They are there and intact. Nothing inside the space that smelled or looked out of place. Way down and low... I do not know if this is an area with any connections, or just the position for the wire bundles to enter the interior. From my adding reading glasses and a bright flashlight... just a convenient way to bring all of the wiring into the Hull. Good planning in my opinion. Nothing unusual to see beneath the Oliver frame either... but now know where the wiring bundles enters. We had 248,000+ miles on our 'old 1994 Land Cruiser', that sold in one day with a Craigs List ad. Ran perfectly, If I cannot get this figured out, I am inept with diagnosing anything electrical, unless it is smoking or hanging bare somewhere. I do not abuse my vehicle brakes and do not over use braking traveling slow or upon level highways. (NO, I have not towed up Pikes Peak in Colorado with either trailer... you knew that already. Going up and down in a 4x4 vehicle was interesting enough for my mother, wife and me showing them... a good time. They looked pale and dehydrated.) I read a post by John E Davies about Brake Wiring being undersized in 2018. Holy Cow... now what? Like a water bottler using paper screw caps, rather than more expensive plastic screw caps? If I had not all of my own natural Gray Hair from being a 1949er... it may turn grey after this. Which... may be a good side effect. My wife does not care. She helps me look around for obvious issues in the Oliver... which are not being obvious. I can wire a 1946 Wurlitzer model 1015 bubbler... but an Oliver Elite II is an entire line of jukeboxes from the transistor age. At least when I plug it in, deposit a nickel and it always works. I pace around the Oliver... and get lost in the process, Yeah... Service Tech. I hope to learn something. If he cannot figure it out... maybe rent it out as an apartment?

Our 2021 Toyota Land Cruiser had 500 miles of break in on the engine, before being installed into the vehicle. (From the Dealership quote.) Our 2019 Oliver Elite II apparently did not get one mile testing the BRAKES... Hope to know next week with a Mobile RV Service technician to figure it all out. Great post. Beyond my comprehension, but an excellent look under the Oliver.

Since we are close to build numbers... I took some more photographs before the Trailer Service Tech checks out my no Braking situation, I am hull #448 probably with all the options you may have in your #505. My other appliances and systems seem to work just fine, but my wire colors seem to be different. I do not know if Braking Ground in on the Buss Bar (?) if that is what it is called. I was expecting the same color wires. Although if grounds... maybe wire diameters are the important things to notice. There is a sticker of an Inspection sign off along the floor near the other wiring. Brakes? I may remove this sticker to find out what was... inspected. Other than the Electric Brakes connected to the Tow Vehicle, everything else seems to be working. I am forced to learn more about Electric Brakes in an Oliver, and now, maybe others can compare internal wiring that is visible, An Oliver in Nevada is like finding Trout and Water Falls in our Deserts. These wires are under the outside in the rear seating at the table. Manuals tell you HOW THINGS WORK... but do not have WHAT TO DO IF THEY DO NOT. I also have the four 6 Volt Batteries with Solar Panels. Work just fine. I could be organizing the garage, but that has been done. Maybe trim ornamental palms and flowering bushes, but that has been done. So... this is an education that I need. Not wanted... but curiosity is a good thing if it is to learn and understand more about my Oliver. Learning a lot about the 7 Plug Trailer Plug...

SeaDawg... the 7 way plug was simple to slide the interior out with no effort. I watched a number of videos on the Internet and with one small screw to secure up front, and a back screw and bracket to tighten onto the covered wire bundle... took a couple minutes. The 7 pin assembly and wires slide out easily. What appeared as caulk was a white plastic ring that slips over the back, slips over the wire bundle as it enters the interior. You see it just flush flush in the back of the plug. The wiring was all correct and the assortment of colors shown on the wiring diagram were all Oliver wire bundle. Wires were all screwed tight and did not loosen or pull out bare wires. Just visually looked secure. I now do not suspect the plug or its wiring. If this is NOT the original plug,... there was an issue by the original owner, It is available on the Internet by name. Obviously, this did not FIX IT. So back to waiting for the professional to dig into this. NOT the 7 way Plug... to blame... yet. It was amazing how many videos are to be found just about these plugs. I am rather... over exposed... exploring those. Now... have to let the professional, using his electronics and experience to find the... ORIGINAL PROBLEM. Getting the feeling if the original owner had issues and tried to have it repaired... it is inside the trailer, For what it is costing me for the exploration and possible fix, I do not wish this on anyone. Just a few more days. I will have my F350 handy to plug into and MAKE SURE THAT EVERYTHING OPERATES. Before it seemed to be a quirk with the year of my 2016 F350 and a 2019 Oliver model.... but all is well with the 2019 27FBQ Airstream. It is now the Oliver. Cannot say what or who did what... it is, I hope, to be discovered. I will plug my F350 into the Oliver to make sure the 'repair' works... It either does work or does not work after the Service. If it works... I will describe what the Service Tech did to fix it. He will be happy as he earned his $$$$. I will be disappointed that the Original Owner had this problem, and it was not fixed when he discovered there was something not right. I learned as well.

I left a message with the Mobile Service Company to have a new replacement 7 way RV Plug, in the event this is the problem. Otherwise... I am finished with my discovery of complicated to simple. Working forward to the 7 Way Plug, as the most convenient problem. The Oliver has 28 inches of cable to the end of the 7 way plug. My Airstream has 27 inches of cable to the end of the 7 way plug. So the cable lengths are close to identical. Rather too long, than too short. But... it comes down to the Plug in my opinion. If not the plug... then that is a 'horse of a different color'. With the feedback from other owners... maybe we all are coming to the same conclusion. For me... it would be an expensive solution, but I will watch the service tech and learn something in the process. (I edit AFTER I WRITE. An idea is like watching a movie in color. If I do not get it out of my imagination in print... the ideas disappear.)

After eliminating the Progressive system... it has nothing to do with trailer/tow vehicle Electric Brakes. But... my wife is a Human Bean and methodical. We did agree on one very simple issue that I cannot test due to not having the equipment. Let's say the previous owner knew little about towing, travel trailers and no aptitude to fix... anything. If the electric vacuum quits... it is tossed and replaced. I take it apart to find the problem... then if it is beyond repair... out it goes. Let's say the new owner had perfect braking when connected at the factory lot. Never towed before, but everything worked. Maybe not. When at home, he detaches at the RV Storage. Returns to go camping, and he, or the storage employee attaches the Oliver to the owner's tow vehicle, going in or out to where the trailer is stored, The cable is a bit long, so the cable may have been wrapped... to take up some slack. The cable will not drag on the ground... but if you make a sharp turn... it will tug onto the plug and connection. It is very secure at the plug connection. Possibly pulling out the wire shown on an earlier post in wonderful color. Then no braking. The repair shop could not figure it out. Just towed it, maybe not, as it was very clean and I paid through the nostrils... for its wonderful physical condition. Even my lovely wife agreed with this possibility. I always have slack towing the Airstream on this cable. The Oliver plug has its weakness. It is not molded into the plug. It is attached and then a screw snugs things up Well... I think my sniffing around from complex to a simple cause may be coming. I will check the length of the Airstream and Oliver cables outside the interior. For the 'want of a nail, the war was lost'... was something I heard as a young Neanderthal. We will see...

Airstream 2019 uses a Borgman a female plug into the Tow Vehicle. It appears the wiring is molded into the plug... solid cable and secure. Probably made just for the length of the trailer and has the Plug molded on and the length of cable required for the length needed. Oliver Elite II 2019 uses a Pollack that secures the cable... AFTER?... the wiring is secured within the interior. Totally opposite to the Airstream process? The white caulk sealing the cable exiting is nice quality, seals the cable going into the plug, Why I ask? Totally different methods. I prefer the Airstream as the Plug and Wires seem to be MOLDED to secure the wiring. The Oliver secures the wires AFTER installation. I do not know, but sure looks like this could be an issue. If Oliver Inc. had a Service call from the FIRST owner about braking... but did not mention anything to me on my phone call, and after being on hold for five minutes.. and then said they could nothing to help me. I am would believe they record all calls going out, or in. Maybe this is an Oliver Trailer Plug issue? Anyone had an issue? Or am I unique? Anyone have to replace an Oliver Trailer Plug to Tow Vehicle? I am getting curious. Will know in a few days, but something just makes no sense. When something makes no sense... this makes me more curious. Curiosity killed the Cat... kind of thing. Go for the simple solutions and then proceed. You cannot get any simpler than the Plug INTO the Tow Vehicle.

Called Progressive Engineering and discovered THEIR HARDWARE and wiring coming in and out have: NOTHING TO DO WITH THE BRAKING SYSTEM. Drew explained to me what their system is for... nothing to do with brakes. Internal electrical system for the interior components. Scratched that off my observations. If you have an inside power issue: 269-781-4241. Service Department

In this same second area under the seat where the PD5118610 is located there is also a Smart Surge. There is a woven cover in black, at the bottom corner, where is is truncated about five inches from the box. May be in the photograph of the components in one photo. Smart Surge EMS-HW30C I am going to contact Progressive Dynamics and inquire to cure my ignorance, if possible. Those who do not have an issue... may want to help someone who does. I need the help. You could in the future.