BoondockingAirstream

The Western USA, Rocky Mountain States have many End of the Road opportunities. Here are some examples. When you find ONE... mark it on your MAP. These places are becoming scarce. If YOU encounter The End of the Road... lay back and make yourself comfortable. When rested... turn around and go the direction you CAME to the End of the Road. Ahhhh. Wyoming has many EOR's as an example. These photos are from New Mexico, Wyoming, Nevada, Utah and Nebraska. Ahhhhh. Once you get there... it is the END. Lay back and enjoy Peace and Quiet. Although... there are also others... like yourself... who are also Looking for the End of the Road. Enjoy this year... if possible. 🙂

Some other examples of maps and maps. Good sources for FREE maps... local library sales and free book shelves. Also University and College Libraries get paper maps and they will throw them away or put them into an Annual Book Sale. A ten year or one year old Geological Map works for us. A twenty year old map of the National Forest... is just perfect. Many roads were built in the late 1890's to 1950 for access for lumbering, mining, grazing access... and so on. Technology is great...until the battery charge is used up, or just decides to not cooperate. We do not need High Tech Maps and GPS to find a spot to set up our Trailer Campsite. Open area... great. Trees, maybe. Rock outcrops, possibly can fit. I scanned other examples. There are maps for everything, every place and for multiple reasons. Many are made obsolete to those using hand held computer and software. Great... for ME. I carry maps on our trips. They are cheap... if you do not buy them from a Mountain Climbing Shop. Get them used at Goodwill and other similar places. A box for $5 of your area. Give duplicates away. United States Geological Survey Quadrangles can be found new and used for nothing. They are obsolete to Engineers today. You and I are Boondockers. I am not looking for where natural gas lines are located... today. Mountains do not move. Roads get improved over the years. Lakes have shorelines that change... but the roads move when necessary. New dirt roads are added over the years... you will see it. ...and often, Boondockers are finding campsites by accident. Good campsites are NOT on a map, unless a National Forest Campsite designed for... Tent camping with a picnic table. I scanned some other maps. Even local towns have maps of places to see and visit for FREE. The BLM has Free Maps for ATV trails. If you get lost often... maybe have your spouse read the map to you. The passenger is the best 'Guide'. Imagination... is not a good way to find a way IN or OUT of the National Forest. 🙂 Go to your Library. ASK if they have MAPS FOR SALE or FREE. They want to get rid of them. University Libraries have thousands of maps donated that will end up in the Dumpster. (Ask me how I would know. 🙂 )

DeLorme Atlas and Gazetteer: Topographic Maps of States I am a Geologist. We do have GPS. We use a wrist GPS to mark where we park our Trailer, our Tow Vehicle when hiking to relocate where we parked and even can Store locations we like. (Garmin Forerunner GPS... over 15 years old and still works.) We do not need an expensive or inexpensive large system with details we do not need. The wrist watch GPS units now are even more sophisticated. We like ours. We park, get a GPS location marked and go. When we want to return to the vehicle, we know the direction to hike, how far away we are. Often not a straight line, as we are in a Canyon, on the other side of a Mountain. Never been lost WITH the GPS watch. We DID get Disorientated ONCE in the wilderness of the Gila National Forest over 15 years ago. I had a Compass... but when we hiked West to the North/South dirt road... it was do we go South or North. We went South and in less than two miles... found our Airstream Trailer. Whew.... First chance... found the Garmin. I advise this BEFORE getting any fancy hand held system. I keep DeLorme Atlas & Gazetteer of All Western States we camp. Often they are on Sale. Newer ones are often improved with more detail than older editions. We have the older and when they get worn, get a newer Edition, but keep both. We MARK ALL OF OUR CAMPSITES ON OUR DeLORME ATLASES. Date, elevation and if we liked or did not like the campsite. Yes... some of you want the most up to date, sophisticated electronics. Good. But... not us. Once you are in the Back Country, roads on a screen or map are NOT passable... or are better... or have been closed for years due to disrepair. I like paper maps of areas we frequently. I can look at Colorado, Wyoming and Utah Maps at the SAME TIME. Ohhhh Weeeee. Nancy follows the map while I am towing the trailer, Off the Grid Boondocking. We change ADD road number changes, or turns that are not on the map, make notations, put an X where we camped, information of how, when, where, what and why we were there. Paper is good for us. It worked on maps of the Oregon Trail and today... if you get lost... check the map, your compass, the Sun direction.... and enjoy your Exploring. We do... and these are cheap Tour Guides! The DeLorme Atlas has about 16 inch x 11 inch pages. Colored as to State, BLM, National Forest, Private... property. But, often private property can be in any of these areas by Homesteaders in the 19th Century. But you have more information than you need. Sure... a large computer screen downloaded with detail may serve you well... we do not need it. I have scanned some of the Wyoming Atlas. Check a copy out at a store that offers them. Price shop on the Internet. Abebooks.com has booksellers selling maps for big discounts if used or new older editions. We carry ALL the Western States we think we may be traveling. If it is raining in the mountains of Wyoming, we head to the deserts of Utah...

TALL people... be aware that the Airstream has a higher ceiling than the Oliver II. I am 72 inches + in the morning, and 72 inches - in the evening. So we are dealing with fractions of an INCH. When your head hits things... a fraction of an inch makes a BIG DIFFERENCE. Olivers have LESS Headroom than an Airstream. Period... and I know. I used a tape measure in the 2019 Oliver II and the 2019 27 foot Airstream. I saw a new discussion about the Oliver I having the possibility of changes for 2022. Some have suggested maybe the Height may be increased. Now, I do not want to embarrass anyone having the EXTRA HEIGTH in the Airstream. But here are the measurements: Oliver center of aisle: 78 inches. Airstream center of aisle: 78 1/2" So... if you need MORE clearance walking inside an Oliver or an Airstream... take your shoes off. Maybe gain that 1/2 inch and now more head clearance. 🙂

After all the discussion, I discovered that by WD40 and Oil I was able to clean up the 2" Coupler Assembly. The previous owner said he was told to Oil and then Don't Oil... so he Did not Oil and the mechanism was all 'gummed up'. I am an Oiler and I Grease my Ball and moving parts when towing. With elbow grease, and a fine steel wool... the Coupler SNAPS And the Collar slides over with no effort. I am GREASING the Ball and Oiling the Bulldog. Every time we are detached, I wipe everything down, clean the coupler and all Hitch Parts that need grease. Has worked since 2006 on Airstreams... and as of today... the Bulldog will SNAP at anyone who gets close to it. Grrrrr.

Spent $1.87 at Lowes for a Nickel 'Ethan Pull' and installed it above the black standard handle and slide... drilling through the white frame. Two holes, 3 inches apart and the screws go through from the back side. About 8 minutes, after getting the drill bit selected, holes level and done. Now we have A CUSTOM OLIVER... and the $1.87 and my $0 Labor will make it so much desirable from all of the others, except Mike and Carols Custom Oliver. Your magnet is also a good idea. Where did you find that? Now you have a Custom Custom Oliver. Nut and Bolt or adhesive? Other Oliver Owner's must have come up with some great simple ideas. The previous owner of our Oliver has some of these self vacuum hangers in good spots. If those are 'custom'... ding ding ding... Custom, Custom Oliver. 🙂 I was pleased to discover the screen door has an Aluminum Frame and not plastic.

Mike and Carol's handle will work for us. Airstream has had the handle since 2006, my first. Chrome. When the door is latched open, the handle is better than grabbing in the open area to pull shut. White for the Oliver. Next time in town, getting Upgrade #2. More photos of Your Upgrades... The small changes are what make our Olivers... Home Sweet Home on the road. 🙂

Our Pup Blue Heeler picked up NW of Albuquerque, New Mexico last Summer. We were Boondocking in New Mexico and knew about some Blue Heeler pups, old enough to look at. We were collecting Chalcedony Agates in New Mexico and the timing was perfect. She, Cody, now can enter and exit, both, the Oliver and the Airstream. Our first Boondocking Trip will be with the Oliver. The Airstream already had the protection for the bottom and upper screens. Our next photo... will be with the Oliver. Yep... we are loading all of the permanent items that stay in the Oliver. Mike and Carol... took a look and a screen door handle will help closing the screen door when camped. Have some hardware in the garage to check out. Just getting the 'little things' take care of when convenient.

We have two Blue Heelers. The youngest just turned one year old. To protect the door screen from an energetic Blue Heeler, we installed a screen door protection. Lowe's cost was $12.31 from the $13.68 price with a Military Service Discount. The sheet measured 12 inches x 24 inches and at least 3 inches will be trimmed. You can have it fit loose or arch out a little by just 1/8 inch more trimmed. Just under 3 inches was trimmed off to fit the lower door screen area. If you cut it a little long, this Screen will arch outward. I liked that in the event this is pushed, it will not contact the screen. This does not inhibit air coming in or out. There already is a groove on the inside of the screen door that the cut Screen, with a bit of arching, fits snug. You will easily see it. Oliver may sell a protective Screen that is pre cut. I do not know. The Sheet has a pattern and stainless steel. There are also aluminum Sheet Patterns that are nicer, but cost more and not as easy to use a sheet metal clipper to trim. We can always remove it at will if this one does not work out. The project took less than 10 minutes.

I owe John E. Davies an apology. I found a post by Raspy that took me to a post "How To Upgrade the Bulldog Coupler and Anderson Hitch to 2 5/16 Inch". It was posted under Ollie Modifications. I made a post not too long ago and now easier to find being currently listed. Wonderful, well photographed sequence and followups to questions. Spent hours running through the Forums... and with John Davies and the hardware needed by Minnesota Oli... I will get some hands on experience to get this conversion completed. Thank you and I apologize for my Ignorance not to have done a post by post search earlier. Now... I am exhausted.

John.... this was the information I had been looking for. You had already done a comprehensive review and installation of the Bulldog Coupler and Hitch. for the 2 5/16" change. Sorry for being a pest... this will take some thought and planning to explain the drilling of the Coupler, using my 2 inch unit as an example.

Yes... I am out as well. Minnesota Oli gave me all the information that he used and works. I need no lectures. Just for information I needed for MY Needs. About four days owning an Oliver, it may be time to check out.

As I had said earlier, the Ball is excessively worn and like SeaDawg said may need some... help seating the coupler onto the ball. I mentioned that the previous owner pushed it with his hand, but he kicked it and it set the ball. I used a hard rubber mallet to 'set the ball into the coupler' the first hour I owned the Oliver. I do not want to use the current or new Bulldog 2 inch. As I also said, the ball cone is frozen into the aluminum. I tried, after WD40 and still no luck. I do not have a press and from the looks at the aluminum housing, it has nicks and I filed some of the bottom of the Ball cone to remove an impact, from being dropped. The previous owner had a 40 pound or so Rock Tamer attached to the 2 inch shank... and I do not need to use it. Get on with Life? I thought this was to discuss options and get advice... not psychological help. I like Minnesota Oli's option. I also read that Bulldog said Not to Grease the Ball... and someone said To Grease the Ball.... on the Forum. I am fully aware of working on trailers. I have been greasing my Ball and Equalizer Hitch on three Airstreams. Some use wax paper, some use nothing... I grease. I know how to clean the Coupler mechanism. I do not let my hitches Rust or Corrode. I wipe everything down after use and during use when camped. Monday I will be ordering parts, if possible. I do appreciate help, but my introduction was for a 2 5/16 Ball and Coupler setup. Not a 2 inch, but now I know the larger assembly must exist, from Minnesota Oli. Once done... if anyone is curious as to the effort needed to get this done, ask and I would be more than happy to show photographs on MY PROJECT in progress.

"I don't have a clue how you will mount the Equalizer brackets, you will have to cut away some of the doghouse to access the outer frame members. That will be unsightly and will definitely affect resale value in a negative way. I don't know how much a new one would cost, if the future buyer doesn't like your holes, but I know it would be a whole lot more expensive than a brand new Andersen hitch. Getting the doghouse off requires opening up the bath vanity hatch, to gain access to the nuts inside, that hold the back of it to the hull." A previous option that mentioned the Equalizer Weight Distribution Bars and the Sway Control of the Equalizer Hitch. Nowhere did I say I wanted to use the Equalizer Hitch, nor components to the Anderson Bulldog system... etc. I have 120 posts. Not opinions. I was told over and over that 16 Inch LT Michelins, versus the 15 inch Goodyear Tires, would DAMAGE my Airstream because the tires are too stiff. Much like this discussion /debate/options my choice was 16 inch the first week I purchased an Airstream with six lug Sendel wheel 0 offest and 16 Michelin Tires. Today... many Airstream owners have gone to 16 inch Michelins and Airstream in the High End 30 foot+ use 16 inch Michelin tires. Anyone following this Thread notices it has EVOLVED. I do not personally find the Bulldog Hitch, at first, comfortable. I am only familiar with my Airstream system for three lengths since 2006. Much like Bicycles. I care less about what anyone is using. I am not concerned, but if I needed a bicycle... it would go the same question and response system I have used always. I decided on finding an Oliver II to compare with my Airstream experience. I am keeping my 27 foot 2019 Airstream as it is NOW perfect after tweaking it. Now with a 2019 Oliver II... I have already began to 'tweak' the Oliver... gently... (the exterior Dometic area) and tweaked the Spare Tire mounting. If someone does not agree with me, express it and I will not be upset, get frustrated, take my marbles and leave, etc.. These are ongoing, living discussions from experiences from different sources. When I finalize my Anderson Bulldog system... I will explain what I did and why. Some members think I have owned an Oliver for a decade... maybe three days now. So far... my wife loves the Interior layout and myself... Getting the EXTERIOR up to what I am comfortable. Sixteen inch Michelin tires and Sendel Wheels.... Ahhhhh. Wonderful. Now the HITCH. For those who understand, thank you for being patient. For those who do not understand... post anyways. I WILL eventually do it MY WAY. Worked for 72 years... and maybe 18 more if I use my own instincts.

This was to provoke thought. Not a Survey that has any meaning or solves anything. This is not a Serious Discussion. Probably if the Moderator's prefer, delete this Thread. The Moon keeps the same face towards the Earth. Only one side of the Moon is seen from the Earth. Better yet... "A Day on Earth would last only six to twelve hours without the Moon."

Ahhhh Yes... Some find it that THEIR CHOICE's are always the BEST for everyone. As more information comes, all is taken under consideration. I ask questions when ideas conflict. With Minnesota Oli's post I have TWO options and find his option and choice to fit more into my original 2 5/16 inch ball and coupler. Had I all the options and the owner's reasoning in front of me at one time... that would be the best. Minnesota Oli's works for him and me. Now to sit back and get comfortable with the idea.

I had looked at a Bulldog 028462 Trailer Coupler for 2 5/16 in Ball, Tongue Mount Width 3 inch... for $109.24, 12,500# (tow Two Olivers at the same time). Big Balls and Couplers are stronger... in my opinion, even if it is overkill, it harms nothing. ? It is shown UNDIRLLED. Any commments why, not?

I also have to add John Davies... and others giving me suggestions to work with... Thank you if I missed others.

With help from Steve Landrum, Minnesota Oli and confirmation of Steph and Dud B... I can SEE the simplicity with this shank and ball assembly. Was it necessary to replace the used Anderson Ball Coupler so not to damage the new 2 inch ball? If you did replace the Coupler, did YOU have to drill the holes for the two bolts, or did you order with the two holes predrilled? The Oliver Anderson hitch is not something I am familiar, so want to get everything figured out in advance. I have no issue with the 2" Ball and Coupler as the weight of the Oliver is nothing like my Airstreams. Having Oliver towing hardware for 2 inch and my Equalizer Airstream towing hardware would be wiser. I do not need Sway Control or Weight Distribution towing with an F350 Diesel. I see 'light at the end of the tunnel'. Not just headlights of oncoming traffic... 🙂 Thanks for any additional information... especially about the pre drilling of the Anderson Coupler. I have already thought of making a template of stiff paper off of the current Anderson 2" Coupler and transfer it over to an Undrilled Anderson. Is THAT the way to go?

MNOlie... The shank and ball system is easier to find. It is interesting how many companies are into the Trailer Hitch business. It is the Ball Latch on the Oliver and apparently this can be purchased, but without the holes drilled for exact fit. I will be calling Oliver to see what their options may be. I do not run a machine shop... or have a handy drill press... or even the desire to fabricate the Oliver Ball Coupler on my own. I have a number of shanks. One for U Haul 2 inch. Others that come with a trailer I did not use, since buying a complete shank to trailer is best. Dexter supplies it all and you can vary what accessories you need. The F350 can easily tow on the Ball alone... and I am going that route. No Weight Distribution or Sway Control problems. It will be interesting how this works out... once the dust settles. The current 2" Anderson has the Ball frozen into the shank portion and the ball is a mess. So I also figure the Coupler is shot, as well. I like the KISS... keep it simple stupid. I am the stupid... at the present time, but will be using everyone's assistance on this Thread and work through all of the information, thinking this all out what works best for me.

"How on earth do you plan to use both RV's?" dewdev Punishment for Curiosity. (A strong feeling to know or learn something.) I also have THREE FLY RODS for fishing. When Off the Grid Boondocking... there are advantages for a shorter, narrower trailer for some destinations. The 23 foot Airstream is narrower than all the other Airstream Models... but had 14 inch, five lug wheels in 2006). Load Range C Goodyear 14 inch Marathons... worst tires for heavy Airstreams. We are unconventional in our trailer uses, where we set camp, what we need (like 16 inch Michelins on both trailers), clearances (added 3 inches of lift to the Airstream due to length and 16 inch Michelins). Also, consideration of the current depreciating money in savings at low interest rates. Our Oliver and Airstream will always have value, have a purpose, easy to sell and both are excellent trailers. We want the Propane / Electric operated trailer... ONLY. The trend is going ALL Electric, which does not work for us. Both trailers are 2019 Models, so can compare better and many appliances are from the same manufacturers. The Oliver will take more than two days to become competent of how everything works. My wife is the INISDE person and I, the OUTSIDE person. You are never too old to try something, different. Some people prefer to do nothing and succeed. We do not mind trying to do something different and hopefully find success in both trailers, different in many ways, but both are easy to Tow having a F350 Diesel 4x4. We will know by the end of this camping Season.

John Davies and ChrisMI... The photographs are great and it appears that I can use an Anderson Bull Dog 2 5/16 system, which I did not know existed. I would just remove the current 2 inch system, purchase the 2 5/16 inch System? From John's photos... do I have to Drill the Holes that the bolts on the front of the Oliver secure the latch assembly? Or does an Oliver company parts have the holes predrilled and hardware to mount? I am beginning at point zero and the learning curve right now is... taking straight off, thanks to those giving me my options. I should, then, be confident that I can purchase the 2 5/16 Ball assembly AND the bracket with the locking mechanism... DOES NOT NEED ANY HOLES DRILLED AND WILL HAVE THE PROPER DIAMETER BOLT AND NUTS? John and I think the same when it comes to hardware. I knew the Equalizer weight distribution system / unit would never fit an Oliver. I showed the Ball and Shank as an example for size differences. So I do have: - The option to use a 2 1/2 Inch Shank to fit the F350 and Anderson hardware. Or have to use the 2 inch Anderson Shank only and no 2 1/2 inch and add the sleeve? - Have an Anderson 2 5/16 inch Ball and assembly and Ball Latch attached to the Oliver Frame and the 2 1/2 Inch Shank purchased as a Set? (This is a bit awkward for me after 16 years using the cup and ball system and MOST Oliver use Tow Vehicles that the 2 inch shank and 2 inch ball is never thought as the only option.) I will be OllieStreamed... fast. I began looking the Oliver over this afternoon and already found one common problem that Airstream and Olivers share. I will post that once the 'dust settles'. I am so impressed with the fit of exterior components and the interior of the Oliver II. Bear with me on my 'learning curve'. I appreciate everyone's time and help... it will be easier to understand when I physically do this change... and then... like John Davies... know each detail very well. I hope.... 🙂

I will rephrase my question. I WANT to USE my current Equalizer shank and 2 5/16 inch BALL to tow our Oliver. I will make what shank adjustments necessary to do that. What do I need to purchase to attach TO THE Oliver so I can? Has someone done this? I need to know what to purchase, removing the Anderson 2", and bolt on a 2 5/16 inch receiver ball to the front of the Oliver. So... I do not want to use the Anderson 2 inch coupler. I want to know where to get so the coupler on the Oliver to 2 5/16 inch receiver. I have everything needed for my Airstream and want to use it on the Oliver, but need to remove the 2" system and bolt on a 2 5/16" coupler assembly. Where can I find a source to purchase?

I am use to the Airstream and Equalizer Hitch. The Shank to the F350 is 2.5 inches and the Anderson I am replacing has a 2 inch shank. Using the shim on the 2 inch to fit the F350 sleeve of 2.5 inch leaves a lot of SLOP. Yes, I know some welding adaptions to remove the "Shank Slop", but with the 2 inch, sleeve to 2.5 inch... a lot more SLOP. What options, if any, do I have? I would Prefer... a 2.5 inch Shank and 2 5/16 Ball to connect to the F350 and attach to the Oliver II. The Ball on the Anderson is rough and I tried to force the 3382 WD Tapered Ball out and it is... STUCK. It is best I just do one of two options. 1- Replace the Hitch and the Ball and the Shank that is presently STOCK ANDERSON to the Oliver II. It needs to be replaced... all of it. 2- Substitute a 2.5 inch shank system to fit the F350 factory Sleeve, which fits my Airstream and purchase a System for the Oliver that will convert everything to a 2 5/16 inch Ball and attaches where the Anderson is attached to the Oliver. AND... the Shank of 2.5 inches fitting the F350. I photographed my Equalizer shank and ball that I currently use with the Airstream. Since the Airstream and Oliver 'may' be different heights when the trailer is properly attached, I may find it easier to have a Ball and Shank to fit the Oliver and use the current Airstream unit for only the Airstream. I realize the 2.5 inch shank is overkill... but this is a F350 Diesel 4x4... and even the Airstream needs to Weight Distribution... can tow on the Ball and no Sway. I include a photograph of the Equalizer Ball and Shank with numerous adjustments possible. Among those who experiment with or have already done this change, I value your advice. I am an Airstream owner for 16 years and an Oliver owner for 36 hours. Any advice, pro or con, will be greatly appreciated. Ray, Nancy and Dingo the Oliver 🙂

We have a 2019 Airstream International 27/28 foot and now the Oliver II. The Airstream is inside the RV Garage and the Oliver's home is outside. I have to back both trailers into the RV Garage. The Oliver is comfortable outside, on pavers, and sheltered for 40-50% of Summer daylight hours and catches Solar the other50- 60%. Boulder City, Nevada is always has nice weather. Even when it is... not... nice.