Replace touch-enabled LED lights with what?

[Gliddenwoods]

I recently completed yet another replacement of one of the touch-enabled LED lights...again. This the fourth one I have had to replace and the others are fickle as to how one must touch them to turn on and off. Of course many of you know the hassle of having to drill out and replace the rivets. Why rivets?

So I seek input on two options to at least reduce the pain of the touch-enabled LED lights...or make it go away.

Option 1.  Has anyone replaced the existing bloody rivets system with screws or pass-through small bolts with washers & nuts? The small bolt option would require counter-sinking/boring space for the upper nut and washer...but doable. Going forward when the lights fail again the rivet hassle will be gone. 

Option 2.  Replace all the touch-enabled LED lights with 12v lights with individual switches.  No more fickle on and off light touches...just an on and off switch on each light. Has anyone done this or considered this option? (I thought that Oliver Inc was considering this option at one time.) Does anyone have a recommendation of a replacement light that would work for such a change?

Please share your thoughts as to the feasibility of either or both options.

(Did I mention that I do not like the Oliver provided touch-enabled LED lights and/or the use of rivets to install them?)

Thanks

[johnwen]

Not sure this will help...I just experienced a failure of the light as well.  I do not like the rivets either.  I talked to Jason (Jason in parts department) and he informed me they discontinued the line of lights they were using and went to a new style that uses screws.  It's the same diameter but the hole pattern is slightly different.  I used one existing hole and had to drill the other 2 to mount it.  The profile is different as the lens doesn't bow down like the old one did (see photos)  I like it better as it's easier on the eyes because the lens is flat and not bowl shaped.  Good luck!

John

It is still a touch light.

 

Edited Tuesday at 12:23 AM by johnwen

[jd1923]

2 hours ago, Gliddenwoods said:

Why rivets?

Rivets are often used where you need to attach two thin pieces of material that do not have enough meat to thread into, or where you cannot reach a nut behind. Rivets also need very little  clearance on the outside and the inside expands nicely behind to hold tight. I use them as needed. Drill the heads off to remove. A 1/4” drill usually works.

That said, we have an old hull, no touch lights, controlled by the switch panel, and they are dependable.

It looks like @johnwen may have the right answer for you!

 

 

[Jim and Chris Neuman]

You can drill out the rivets easily - had to replace one of ours also.  I would stay with a drill bit that is no larger than the rivet used, in my case 1/8".  I then used a very short # 8 stainless panhead machine screw sized just long enough to hold the fixture and get through the inner hull but short enough to not pierce or distort the inner cabinet liner.  Use an appropriate tap for the thread you chose.  If you then need to pull the fixture at some point in the future you will not have to drill it out again - just back out the fastener and use it to install the new fixture.  If you feel you have to use another pop rivet you can do that so long as the drill bit you used to remove the old rivet does not enlarge the hole.

Edited Tuesday at 06:41 PM by Jim and Chris Neuman
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[johnwen]

One more picture...of the light with the cover removed and screws exposed.

[LeBill]

I have replaced several original touch lights with ones from Obeaming (Amazon), 4.5 inch . I used all the original holes after removing the rivets, using SS screws. My replacement lights are only a month old, so longevity is unknown. I found it much easier to complete the wiring after I removed the bottom panel in the upper compartments (hidden screws).

 

 

[Rolind]

So I have a related question. I’m sorry about your difficulties with the touch lights. I am having a very annoying flickering of some of the gooseneck reading lights in our Oliver.  Any suggestions on solutions or replacement?  I searched the forum to no avail.

[johnwen]

You should still be under warranty Rolind.  Start a ticket with Oliver...they've probably seen this a few times.

Best of luck,

John

[MobileJoy]

I had mine replaced last year when I went to the mothership for regular service. This is what I purchased.

 

I had Oliver do the mounting since I was there anyway because I'm not super comfortable with drilling and screwing into fiberglass. They have a central mechanical button that is part of the cover. They are dimmable, have 3000K/4000K/5000K (selectable at purchase) temperature,  and they have a blue mode for night lighting. When installing, the screw holes must be drilled perpendicular to the surface, or the cover mounting will not be perfectly flat, in which case the switch button will not reliably make proper contact with the switch itself. I did have to repair the screw installation since the Oliver tech didn't know this (neither did I), but now all five of them work properly first time every time.

They're cheap enough that I bought a spare set, but their life is very long so a replacement will probably not be required during my time with the trailer.

[Golfnut]

Mobilejoy, i looked at those lights to..  I replaced mine with the switch along the side they are dimmable too.. If any one wants to see my lights. Stop by if your at the rally G17..  mine do not sit flush , does not bother me.. i just want them to work.. i replaced two touch lights under warrenty..  stay safe out there..