Winterizing in below freezing temperatures

[RVK]

Having spent the last 2 weeks south of the frigid temps and snowstorm of the I95 corridor,  we are traveling home.

Spent last night near Washington DC. We did not hook up to water and stayed cozy inside.

As we were winterizing before heading home this morning the fresh and city water inlets were frozen so that we couldn't get any antifreeze into them.

We're on our way home now and will try to thaw them out and try again.

Has anyone else run into this issue?  Did you have any damage?

[jd1923]

48 minutes ago, RVK said:

Has anyone else run into this issue?

Have you been using the furnace?

[RVK]

Absolutely.   We've been living in the camper for the past 2 weeks for this trip.  We were cozy last night and kept the furnace on as we were winterizing.

[jd1923]

1 hour ago, RVK said:

Absolutely.   We've been living in the camper for the past 2 weeks for this trip.  We were cozy last night and kept the furnace on as we were winterizing.

I asked since this has happened to those running space heaters, but first I've heard of the water inlets freezing when furnace is being used as the sole heat source. The water inlets plumbing is very close to the furnace along the rear wall of the Oliver. When the Oliver interior is kept above 60F, the furnace should be running long and hard enough to keep the rear basement and water inlets well above freezing!

Given "the fresh and city water inlets were frozen" they must have water in them and they shouldn't up to the backflow preventers. Good practice is to allow those ends to drain prior to capping them off. They can also fill when check-valves leak.

And yes, when plumbing has frozen when full of water the PEX could burst. You will not know until it is thawed, filled again with water and brought up to pressure to test for leaks.

Edited Saturday at 06:38 PM by jd1923

[topgun2]

RVK - 

What year is your Ollie?

In the "older" models the water inlets are on the streetside away from the furnace and are, therefore, subject to freezing.  Unfortunately, if this happens then it is very possible that the check valves might be damaged.

Bill

[RVK]

Update...we got home and opened up the lids under the streetside portion of the  bed with the furnace turned up to 68.

After a couple of hours  we were able to complete the winterizing. 

 

It might be important to note that our 2021 unit is a standard model, with the heater ducts under the curbside portion of the bed.  We had some laundry under the streetside portion of the bed, which might have been a mistake.

[Geronimo John]

11 hours ago, jd1923 said:

The water inlets plumbing is very close to the furnace along the rear wall of the Oliver

JD

Unless I'm messing up my boat terms:  

• The boondocking port is close to the furnace, aft starboard. 
• The fresh water and city water are aft port side near the outside access to the basement.

But you are correct in ensuring that the furnace (vs. space heaters) was being used.  It circulates air in the basement and helps prevent problems with freezing.  However there is a limit to how cold it will do so. Something that I'll hopefully NEVER NEVER even come close to knowing first hand.  See video posted on the other cold related thread.  🙂

GJ

Edited Sunday at 05:30 AM by Geronimo John

[jd1923]

22 hours ago, jd1923 said:

The water inlets plumbing is very close to the furnace along the rear wall of the Oliver. When the Oliver interior is kept above 60F, the furnace should be running long and hard enough to keep the rear basement and water inlets well above freezing!

Yes, as I wrote, "the water inlets plumbing is very close to the furnace." It's not like the furnace and water lines are front and rear! The majority of water lines are within a few feet of the furnace. Yes, the inlets are on the streetside of course. What is that, six (6) ft or 2M from the furnace? I call that "close!"

Also, there should be no water from the backflow preventers (check-valves) to the inlets (see pic). The water inlet should not be frozen unless it was not allowed to drain or the check valve has failed allowing water to pass. Therefore, if all is working correctly, the inlets having no water could not freeze. The water lines are full from the check-valves to the water pump (and back to the outdoor shower), and ALL of these water lines passing directly by the furnace! The water should conduct the heat from the furnace as well.

I have added vents for basement airflow. I have also added a return air filter to slightly impede cold air from being pulled from the cabin center aisle vs. the air space of the basement. No basement panels are opened! My Ruuvi to check basement temps is directly under where you see the backflow preventers and restrictors in the picture. Cabin temp right now is 65F and rear basement temp is 43F. In our hull #113, when the cabin is heated by our furnace to 62F (our sleeping temp) the basement reading will be above 32F.

The colder it is outside, the more often the furnace will cycle, spreading some heat to the basement. Someone else would have to chime in that does true winter camping!

Notice at dawn on one day the rear basement temp fell down under 30F for a couple hours. We were still at home on 1/25 and it was cold, thermostat set to 45F at that time!

Edited Sunday at 05:05 PM by jd1923