topgun2

So's your Ollie - nice pic! Bill

I'm sorry but I do not currently have the time to look for the rather long discussions about zerks not taking grease that we have had previously here on the Forum. Nor have I recently looked at the video. But, many of the zerk issues can be resolved by taking the load off the the suspension or making sure that the little ball in the end of the zerk is not stuck shut. If it is a zerk "ball" problem then the solution is to free that ball by tapping (gently) with something like a "nail set" or replacing the zerk (these are not expensive and are available at NAPA and most other automotive stores and/or Tractor Supply and the like. Hope this helps! Bill

Sorry about that - I should have checked before I opened my mouth 😵‍💫. Or, I should read better in that you were referring to the Missouri River - NOT the State. In any case - While I too live in a fairly "rural" area it is not quite as "out there" as you are. If it helps (I really doubt this) I too have had "issues" with deliveries. Just this past week a new pair of hiking boots that were supposed to be delivered in 3 to 5 days actually took almost three weeks! Of course I agree with you in that the rural lifestyle does have its advantages - the bear walking through the yard this morning and the bobcat last week. Heck, I was stopped at a traffic light the other day as the 4th vehicle back and complained that we now have "traffic jams"! Bill

I guess that it does "pay" to read those manuals? What? Y'all ain't got no Pony Express over there in Missoura? 😇 Bill

Have you submitted a Service Ticket? If not, how is Oliver supposed to know of your problems with it? Perhaps they can help and even if they can't help, they have valuable input. I also dislike the number of LED's in my Ollie. However, other than a playing card a much more elegant solution for those of us who are a bit light sensitive is to use something like THIS. Again - see my first point above. Its hard to believe that there isn't a fairly simple way to change this function. Again - a Service Ticket is your highway to (possible) solution. Finally - Perhaps you have not read THIS POST on the Forum. Please note the 8th post down from the top of page three in this thread where Oliver has sent an "Open Letter" to owners-members of the Forum. Of special note is the 7th (last) paragraph of the letter. Bill

When I purchased my two LiTime lithium batteries I also read about charging to 100% prior to installation. It just so happened that I "needed" an additional battery charger at the time, so, I purchased one of THESE from Amazon. As JD mentions above, I needed to charge the batteries overnight in order to get to the 100% and the charger worked perfectly. For general battery charging (i.e. regular battery maintenance on the vehicles that are not driven enough) I prefer NOCO battery chargers. But, they are generally more expensive and charge at lower amps. Bill

See page 2 of THIS thread (i.e. back 1 page) and it is the 12th post down from the top. While I'm confident that your research regarding who actually pays for recalls, it should be noted that the original design work relative to Oliver using the Truma water heater was studied and approved by Truma. As I understand it, Truma refused to order a recall when the problems with the water heater became apparent and claimed that there were no similar issues with this water heater being installed in other RV's. Therefore, Oliver took it upon themselves to take care of the problem without any monetary assistance from Truma. Then, after Oliver took this step, repair parts availability from Truma became another source of issue (i.e. repair parts were very difficult to come by even though in the interim Truma redesigned the water heater in order to "correct" the very issue that was causing the recall. Bill

Read the post here on the Forum about how Oliver footed the entire bill for the repairs to the Truma water heaters. Bill

Gravity or compressed air or time (in a dry place)

And - ALL of the expense in doing this work came out of the pocket of Oliver - not Truma. Bill

Here is a link to the emergency valve stems. Bill

Sure they could - BUT - then you would not have a closet (or, at least a smaller closet).🛁

Very nice truck - I wish that one of those would fit in my garage! You don't "have to have" the Andersen with the 250 Ford. However, I would suggest hanging on to it until you have some time to determine how you like the ride without it. I'm guessing that you will sell the Andersen eventually. Bill

Unfortunately, no Oliver staff is "assigned" to read or monitor the Forum. Therefore, if you really want Oliver to see this post, fill out a Service Ticket or send an email directly to Jason Essary. Bill

Of course - another way of reducing these bright lights is to install a dimmer - 😁 Bill

Toni - Sorry, but, the last numbers that I have for interior detailer and Aquawax are 923 and 952 as mentioned above. I'd suggest to either call them at 336-229-1303 or email them at info@duragloss.com They have always been very nice and I'm sure that they can tell you which of their products are equal to the interior detailer and Aquawax. Hope you are doing well! Bill p.s. just went to the Duragloss site and did a search for both 923 and 952. Both came up as 921 and 951 as you mentioned. But, in looking at the picture and description of the product it appears to me that both are the same as they used to be at the different numbers. The 951 is still labeled as "Aquawax" but the 921 is labeled as "Fast Clean and Shine".

There are numerous videos on YouTube showing how to setup the Andersen Weight Distribution hitch - like THIS ONE FROM ANDERSEN. Bill

Eleven years ago while at my first Oliver Owner's Rally a former owner showed me a mixture of Duragloss products that has kept the interior of my looking like it just came off the showroom floor. I believe that Duragloss may have changed the numbers of their products - but - here is the receipe that has worked all these years: In a small spray bottle (I got mine at the Dollar Store) mix four parts Duragloss interior detailer (923) with one part Duragloss Aquawax (952). While I do not use it on the floor due to not wanting the floor to be slippery, I do use this spray on everything else - counters, stove, microwave, stainless steel, all fiberglass (walls, ceiling, bathroom), the mirrored cabinet doors, the mirrored bathroom door, everything. Take a microfiber cloth and fold it, wipe the spray with one side, turn the cloth over and wipe again with the other side and I'm done. The interior detailer cleans and the small amount of wax contained in the Aquawax leaves just enough was on the surface to help dirt to not stick to the surface. Bill p.s. Duragloss can be contacted at: www.duragloss.com

HERE is a new video from Oliver featuring Aaron Wolters. Bill

Custom Comfort Mattress info can be found HERE Bill

Can't they make a mattress these days that isn't so thick? Regardless - I really do like the look of these. Can you give us any details (i.e. contact info, how do they ship or do you have to pick them up, price, choices of thickness and/or firmness, etc.). Bill

THIS thread directly applies to the bushing question - particularly see the last post regarding the appropriate amount of "bluge" . Bill p.s. by typing in "Monroe Shocks" the Forum's search function will return more information of the subject of shocks in general.

HERE is just ones of those posts on the subject of alternative(s) to the Monroe shocks. Bill

Welcome to the Family! Looks like you are off to a great start - nice rig and a couple of nice camping spots too. If you haven't been to the Oliver University yet, it is a great place to see articles and videos. And, of course, have fun poking around here on the Forum for all sorts of ideas of ways to make that "new" 2018 all yours. Finally, feel free to ask questions - there are a bunch of folks here that are more than willing to help. Bill

Frankly - I'm surprised that there are that many with the second awning. Bill