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Everything posted by topgun2

  1. Nice to watch that video and take in all the differences between the Elite II of then versus how it is now. Bill
  2. Welcome and glad that you "found" Oliver. Besides visiting an Oliver in your local area (a great first step 'cause seeing is believing), if you live anywhere close to the Oliver factory, be sure to take the tour. Also, for both the tour and your visit - take your camera. It will help you remember what you saw and help with questions that you may have in the future. Good luck and let us know if there is any question we can help you answer. Bill
  3. Brian Z - Forgive me if I'm wrong, but, having just re-read the last couple of entries in this thread, I believe that there just might be some mixing of apples and oranges going on here. All your solar panels do is put a charge/current into your batteries. In turn, your batteries are then used directly for power for 12 volts things like your lights, TV, radio, fridge, etc. Anything that requires 110/120 volts takes current from your 12 volt batteries (whether lead acid, AGM's or lithiums), runs the 12 volts through your inverter/converter to change from the 12 volts to 110/120 volts and then powers your device. So, there are two things then that come into play - your battery capacity and the capacity of your inverter/converter. Besides having a big enough battery bank with enough amp hours to run/operate whatever it is you're trying to use for the amount of time you'd like to use it, you must have an inverter/converter that will be big enough to supply the converted voltage. This is one of the reasons that the Oliver lithium package has a 3,000 watt inverter/converter as part of the package versus the "standard" 2,000 inverter/converter that is in most other Ollies. And, even with that inverter/converter size of 3,000 watts, the fairly large battery of lithium batteries will only run the air conditioner for about 4 hours. Hopefully I have not confused the issue for you. Bill
  4. My twin bed Ollie is set up as a one bed with the other side being a couch (i.e. it uses the standard cushion on the bottom along with cushions along the wall). On those occasions when either my wife or my fishing buddy join me - they sleep on the "couch" with the back cushions removed for the night. All six people that have done this have told me that they slept very well and this was surprisingly comfortable. Bill
  5. At the Florida mini-rally I hosted a couple for a tour of my twin bed Ollie. The male is 6'4" and he laid down on the bed flat on his back and had a bit of room to spare - his head did not touch nor did his feet touch unless he flexed his feet (pointed his toes) towards the wall. At 6' tall, I can flex my feet and touch the wall with my toes but my head is not touching the wall. Patriot is in the "tall" range and has the twin bed model. Perhaps he will chime in here and/or you can always send him a private message (PM) on this Forum to get his input. Bill
  6. JD - I believe that it (the color) is being caused by the lighting in the photo. Note the color of the aluminum where the "1up" sticker is located - much the same color as you are referring to on the sleeve. Bill
  7. Try this: left click on the three dots located in the upper right of the post with the picture you wish to edit - the picture should turn a blue color. Then right click while holding down the "control key". A "pop-up menu should appear in which one of the choices in the middle of that menu is edit picture. Left click on that and another menu pops up that allows you to move the picture and/or re-size it. I don't think this is an Moderator only function - but - I could certainly be wrong. Bill
  8. I'm ex-military but not retired ex-military. So, I can't get into those camp grounds either. However, I'm so glad that there are those that not only served our country but did so for a longer period of time than I could. They deserve this benefit. And, they certainly show true style and taste in that Ollie.
  9. I'm not sure if that slight elevation was done on purpose, but, any water that would be in or near that valve should simply drain back to the lowest point. Thus, there would be no water there to cause an issue in freezing weather. Having said this - there is always "some potential" for virtually anything to happen. I've just never heard of it. Bill
  10. Welcome to the Family! Obviously there is some bias here but most (if not all) reached the same decision as you did probably for many of the same reasons. The time between now and July will go by quickly even though there will be the occasion that you will wonder if it will ever get here. Use this time wisely - study the Oliver University and this Forum even more than you have. This "homework" will serve you well and make your "newbie" introduction much more enjoyable with a bunch less stress. Let us know if there is anything we can do to help you. Bill
  11. Besides the lube that DavePhelps mentions make sure to take a look around that valve to make sure that it has room to operate freely. Bill
  12. RE-check that hot water bypass just to make sure. OK - turn off the kitchen faucet and open the bath faucet. Any luck? If no luck then look at the level of antifreeze - is it going down? If its going down then the stuff is going somewhere. If its not going down then there must be a block somewhere between the kitchen and the bath.
  13. Since the fresh water tank is comparatively large and there is relatively little water in there (assuming that it has been mostly drained), there is nothing to fear from the remaining water in that tank freezing. Remember, it is the expansion of freezing water that causes the issues. If there is nothing for this expanding freezing water to "expand" against then there is no harm. Certainly there is nothing wrong with what GJ is doing - assuming that the fresh tank is thoroughly flushed prior to its next use (which should be done regardless when the tank is sanitized). But, it is extra work. Bill
  14. I know the answer to this - but - where do you and Duke sleep?😁 Bill
  15. I have not tried them with the 3M 4000.
  16. Over the years I've tried almost everything out there to include taping the ends, putting sticks/nails and other commercially made "stoppers" in open tubes of caulk. But, nothing really did a great job of keeping the caulk from drying out. Early last year I saw a Youtube video that talked about a canister that is used to help save open tubes of caulk. So, I bought two. Today, I had reason to use both a Liquid Nails solvent based construction adhesive and a DAP latex sealant/caulk that I had last used about 11 months ago. Both were not much different than when I put them into the canisters. With the price of caulk as high as it is, I'm convinced that the AirTite canister will save me money and the hassle of adding to the landfill. I bought mine on Amazon - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07PQSZ5YH/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Bill
  17. Steve's a tough old bird. But, none of us are so tough that we can do without some prayers on our behalf. Steve and Tali deserve all that we can throw their way.🙏
  18. Most certainly there are probably differences between the manufacturers of these TPMS systems. But, it is also fairly likely that the basic systems are similar. In the case of the EEZ TPMS their website states the following: "Tire pressure sensors are directly mounted on tire valves and transmit tire pressure and temperature information to TPMS monitor on a 6-second interval continuously even when vehicles are not moving. TPMS monitor is motion sensitive and will go into power saving mode if no motion is detected in 15 minutes to save battery."
  19. Any idea of why it tore? Another way to fix the repair - especially if the tear was caused by wear - would be to first place aluminum tape on it as per the above suggestions and then take either a larger piece of duct or one of the same size and place the existing duct inside it (i.e. wrap the new duct over the existing) and then tape it in place. This will tend to seal the tear a bit better while also giving that area a bit of support and protection. Bill
  20. Did you "push the power button on the inverter" or the power button on the REMOTE for the inverter? Obviously, these two are not the same and if the button you pushed is on the remote you may have an issue with the remote not talking/communicating to the inverter. Bill
  21. Interesting point and well put. There is just sooooo much going on when you take delivery. And, many of us are simply too polite or feel that we are imposing on the time, energy, graciousness, etc. of the people that are showing us our new baby. Combine this with not wanting to look too "stupid" about things that are new to us and it is almost a perfect storm for overlooking things that simply seem so obvious just hours or days later. Your "friend idea" is a good one. But how many of us have a friend that is knowledgeable enough and could take the time to help in this manner? Bill
  22. Actually, Patriot put me on to the "hammer links" several months ago. Unfortunately, I've still not done anything about it. My bad! Bill
  23. GJ - Yes, I too added a couple of those links for the safety cables on my F-150. Indeed, they certainly do make attaching those cable and even the safety brake cable much easier on the Ford - I never even really think about that step anymore. Bill
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