DavePhelps Posted March 10, 2017 Posted March 10, 2017 Thanks for the reply's. I would probably place the AL on a 2x8 for support and that little extra bit of lift if necessary. I looked at the Blaylock EZ-100 leveler but they offer no mating chock (wedge) to stabilize it. So I guess you would have to find or make one. I like that it is cast Aluminum though. Dave 2015 Oliver Elite, Hull 107 1998 Ford E-250, 5.4 liter
KarenLukens Posted March 10, 2017 Posted March 10, 2017 The Blaylocks look good to me also. I have wedges that I made from 4x4's and I'll make my own for them. I like the Anderson's but they break... Happy Camping, Reed & Karen Lukens with Riffles our Miniature Poodle 2017 Oliver Legacy Elite II Standard, Hull #200 / 2017 Silverado High Country 1500 Short Bed 4x4 Past TV - 2012 Mercedes-Benz ML350 4Matic BlueTEC Diesel Click on our avatar pic above to find the videos on our Oliver Legacy Elite II
Hap Posted March 11, 2017 Posted March 11, 2017 Just my personal experience. We've used the Anderson Levellers many times. I usually just kick the chock in a bit with my foot. I've never had the Anderon chock slip out and after many uses, I've never had one break. I do always chock the tires on the opposite side of the trailer back and front at ever campsite even on level ground as a precaution. Hap Sometimes at our home in Florida currently at the Fort Stanton Equestrian Trail Head Lincoln, NM 88338 and headed West this morning.
Raspy Posted March 12, 2017 Posted March 12, 2017 I prefer to get my Oliver as level as is practical by blocking under the tires. It's nice to rough it in by backing up onto a 2x6 or two, for instance, or backing the high side tires into a couple of low spots I can dig out. Then a small adjustment with the jacks gets it perfect. Frame flexing doesn't start at some particular loading, it happens with any load on the jacks. It's not really twisting because it's a three point system. It's bending. The weight is being supported farther back along the frame rail with the jack as compared to the axle subframe, so the frame rail bends up from the force applied by the jack. The force is being applied at one point instead of against a large subframe. I can hear mine creaking as soon as I start loading either of the rear jacks. Up front, the frame is seriously massive and reinforced, but out back it's a small box section. It seems the body and the frame work together to make a strong system. The whole thing reminds me of a boat sitting on a trailer. The boat is strong on it's own and the trailer is there to support it and tow it along, not to make the boat stronger. Boat trailers can be very flexible and still haul boats just fine. The Oliver hull, similarly seems to be very strong on it's own. Given the choice, I think I'd prefer changing a tire with a floor jack under the axle than lifting the tires off the ground with the leveling jacks, but it's nice to know we can do it that way when needed. 3 John "I only exaggerate enough to compensate for being taken with a grain of salt." LE2 #92 (sold), Black Series HQ19
KarenLukens Posted March 12, 2017 Posted March 12, 2017 I prefer to get my Oliver as level as is practical by blocking under the tires. It’s nice to rough it in by backing up onto a 2×6 or two, for instance, or backing the high side tires into a couple of low spots I can dig out. Then a small adjustment with the jacks gets it perfect. Frame flexing doesn’t start at some particular loading, it happens with any load on the jacks. It’s not really twisting because it’s a three point system. It’s bending. The weight is being supported farther back along the frame rail with the jack as compared to the axle subframe, so the frame rail bends up from the force applied by the jack. The force is being applied at one point instead of against a large subframe. I can hear mine creaking as soon as I start loading either of the rear jacks. Up front, the frame is seriously massive and reinforced, but out back it’s a small box section. It seems the body and the frame work together to make a strong system. The whole thing reminds me of a boat sitting on a trailer. The boat is strong on it’s own and the trailer is there to support it and tow it along, not to make the boat stronger. Boat trailers can be very flexible and still haul boats just fine. The Oliver hull, similarly seems to be very strong on it’s own. Given the choice, I think I’d prefer changing a tire with a floor jack under the axle than lifting the tires off the ground with the leveling jacks, but it’s nice to know we can do it that way when needed. Exactly :) Excellent post Raspy :) Last night our door was a touch off again on pretty level ground and I just lowered both rear jacks a bit and it leveled right into place. It is much better to put blocks under the tires behind the door if the door frame tilts a bit, but keeping the wheels either on blocks or as much on the ground as possible, the frame isn't being forced to carry the extra weight of the wheels and axles. I'm going to ask Larry at LHC what he thinks when we get there because I want to add in a couple scissor jacks to get rid of the 3 point wobble that you feel in the bathroom. I used this as far back on the frame as possible on the Casita and it worked great under the propane tanks. https://www.amazon.com/Valterra-020106-RV-Stabilizer/dp/B001UGJPXQ/ref=cm_wl_huc_item It will work great on the Oliver also but permanent stabilization looks like a real good option with putting the scissor jack between the wheel and the tank overflow hose. Happy Camping, Reed & Karen Lukens with Riffles our Miniature Poodle 2017 Oliver Legacy Elite II Standard, Hull #200 / 2017 Silverado High Country 1500 Short Bed 4x4 Past TV - 2012 Mercedes-Benz ML350 4Matic BlueTEC Diesel Click on our avatar pic above to find the videos on our Oliver Legacy Elite II
rideandfly Posted March 12, 2017 Posted March 12, 2017 "I prefer to get my Oliver as level as is practical by blocking under the tires. It’s nice to rough it in by backing up onto a 2×6 or two" Agree, going to cut a couple 2x6s to get close to level on the low side of the Ollie on a sloped sites and stabilize with jacks. I still put all Ollie jacks down (unless connected to the TV) and lift the side just high enough and long enough to remove/replace a wheel/hub with the wheels chocked on other side. 1 2015 LE2 #75 / 2024 F-150/5.0L
hardrock Posted March 12, 2017 Posted March 12, 2017 This seems to be a multi- level question, no pun intended. At the next Oliver Rally, an Open Forum will be held on Saturday night. We are encouraged to send in questions and Oliver staff will choose and research the top 20 to answer at the rally. I suggest this topic be put together in the form of a question(s) to seek the right answer(s) from Oliver technical. I think the plan is to put together a PowerPoint presentation with detailed information will be presented Saturday night at the rally. Later the information will be posted on the Oliver website. donbob3, you are the originator of this thread, do you want to post the question to Oliver on the Rally tab on the homepage?
donbob3 Posted March 13, 2017 Author Posted March 13, 2017 I signed up for rally last week. Going on factory tour Rally Fri AM. I will try to get this topic on agenda.
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