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Water filter with pump for fresh water refill


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I read on hear somewhere that there was a filter with pump that ran off 12 or 110 volt but now can’t find the post.  When I clicked on the link for the filter, the site was no longer available.  Anyone know where I can find one.  This one pumped 3 to 5 gallons a minute and had complete filtration just like a backpacking filter.  I don’t feel complete with my boondocking equipment without one!  Any info is appreaciated.

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Do you intend to use this for pumping out of a stream and into the Ollie's fresh water fill?

 

There's always the onboard pump and the winterization inlet but not sure how that would fare pumping through a filter tight enough to remove all pathogens etc.  3-5 gpm sounds high for that level of filtration but if you can find it again I'm interested to read more about it.

2018 OLEII #344   |   2018 Ford Expedition

 

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Is this the sort of setup you want? I have not heard of a commercial version, but it would be very simple to build your own.

 

 

The only comment I could make about his system is that the suction hose should be as short as possible and at least one size larger in diameter than the discharge hose.

 

I wonder if he worries about nasty creatures in that muddy river?

 

John Davies

 

Spokane wA

"Mouse":  2017 Legacy Elite II NARV (Not An RV) Two Beds, Hull Number 218, See my HOW TO threads: https://olivertraveltrailers.com/topic/john-e-davies-how-to-threads-and-tech-articles-links/

Tow Vehicle: 2013 Land Cruiser 200, 33" LT tires, airbags.

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Yes, pumping from a stream or lake.  The one I saw on the forum had its own pump which coupled with the onboard pump worked.  I agree just the onboard pump would not do it pulling through the micro filter.

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John, yes that is exactly what I am talking about.  The one I saw was commercial but costs about $450.  Probably could build your own for less.  Where would you find the right kind of filters?

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I am pretty sure you could build a system for WAY less than $450. The largest expense will be hoses and really heavy gauge electrical cable to run the pump remotely, unless you want to sub a big battery for that. As long a reach as the pump in the video had (40 meters), you need big wires, and they get pricy. For 50 feet or so, 10 AWG would be plenty big. For 150 ft I would be looking way larger, (ie: heavier and expensive).

 

How far away do you want to pump?

 

If I were going to do this, I would use a 110 volt AC water pump, short hoses and wires, and a jerry can to fill and to carry the water to the trailer. The can is always with me anyway, as is my generator to run the pump. This method would greatly minimize complexity, weight, storage space and cost.... it would be kind of a motorized backpacking filter, using equipment I already carry. Depending on what filters you choose, and how skillful you are at finding deals (used pump, for example) I think you could do it for way less than $200.

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/SHURflo-Industrial-2088-594-154-Electric-Pump-115V-60Hz-3-3GPM-45-PSI-/222661842556?_trksid=p2349526.m4383.l4275.c10

 

Do NOT cut corners with the filtration, you do not want nasties living and breeding in your fresh water system! You will never match the capabilities of this system, but you should try to get close .... http://earthcruiser.net.au/features/#waterp

 

John Davies

 

Spokane WA

"Mouse":  2017 Legacy Elite II NARV (Not An RV) Two Beds, Hull Number 218, See my HOW TO threads: https://olivertraveltrailers.com/topic/john-e-davies-how-to-threads-and-tech-articles-links/

Tow Vehicle: 2013 Land Cruiser 200, 33" LT tires, airbags.

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Thanks for the info and links to the water filter store and sureflow pump.  I emailed the water filte store and got a rapid response. I enquirer about the two canister link supplied by snowball.  I wanted to know if that would cover all the beasties in unfiltered water.  They replied if I really wanted to cover all bases to add to it a ceramic canister filter they also supplied.  It only allows 1 gallon per minute but as John says don’t want to shortcut here.  John I have a 110 volt inverter on my Ram 2500 and could use either that or my generator a you said.  Even if I pumped directly into the Oliver, I would still need a pump I think but your idea is more likely.  I too carry a generator and a 20 gallon poly propylene tank for same reason. Sounds like I have my answers.  Appreciate all the help and links.  I do have a call into the water filter store to fully understand if I need the ceramic filter or not since it drops to 1 gallon per minute, but no biggie either way.  Welcome any other comments if I am missing anything.

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Did they say why they recommended the ceramic filter?  The F1 filter is 0.5 microns, while the ceramic one is 0.9, so you'd think it would only help as a pre-filter for the F1.  But it's really not that much smaller than the SED1 prefilter, which is 1.0 micron.

 

We've taken the same route as a few other Oliver owners, which is to carry bottled water for drinking and cooking and just use the onboard water for showers, etc.  That may change if I get an under sink carbon filter, but for now the taste of the water out of the fresh tank leaves a lot to be desired, unless you love the taste of plastic.

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Here is the email from the Water Filter store on the ceramic filter and why he Recomended it:

 

In the vast majority of cases, the Essential System will provide clean, safe, good tasting water. You would filter out sediment down to 0.5 microns, chemicals, VOC's, taste and odor issues, lead and heavy metals, and cysts (giardia and cryptosporidium). You would not have coverage for bacteria which is far less common than giardia. If you need coverage for e.coli or other coliform bacteria, you would need a ceramic filter. You would also need a pump to pull the water out of the river and push it through the filters. Any 12V RV pump would work for that. If you do need a ceramic filter and you have a pump, the D-UC filter would be an excellent add on to the Essential system to get the next level of purity.

 

I hope this helps. If you would like to discuss feel free to call.

 

Thanks for your inquiry!

Dave

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Thanks.  I did a bit of research and here's what I found.  The main difference between the two is that the Daulton ceramic filter advertises an 'absolute' micron size of 0.9, while the Pentek F1pb advertises a 'nominal' micron size of 0.5.  If you dive deeper into Daulton's website, you find that their filters also have a 'nominal' size of 0.5, same as the F1pb, but since they also have an absolute rating of 0.9, you have the added assurance that the material is more consistent and you won't get a filter that has holes larger than that amount.  Pentek doesn't advertise an absolute rating, so you have to assume there's a reason for that.  They're a little more vague on their certifications as well.

 

The drawbacks are slower flow rate and shorter lifespan.  And if you want lead reduction, be sure to get the Ultracarb model.

 

I think RV Waterfilter store is confused on the bacteria thing though - Daulton advertise their filters as antibacterial, but what they mean by that is that the filters are silver impregnated so that bacteria won't grow inside them.  The filtration isn't increased by that though - just looks like something that's necessary for ceramic filters.

 

So there you go.  I do think the ceramic filter is better as an alternative to the F1pb, though the F1pb is highly rated and has a much faster flow rate.  I'd guess that either is fine in most situations but if you want the best filtration, go with the ceramic.

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Great post Mark, thank you. With the suction fill system on the, Ollie, would you add a small amount of bleach-treated water to a clean container and slurp it into the fresh tank before filling from the normal fill port?

 

Sometimes you don’t know exactly how much water the tank will take - you can guess using the gauge and/or looking at the water level -   so how could you get a reasonably accurate dose? Or does it just not matter much?

 

We drink bottled water, so I don’t mind if there is a slight chlorine tang to the tap water.... normally I try to fill up from a trusted source. My house has treated city water, and that is my first choice. But I do worry when I have to top up at a strange campsite...

 

John Davies

 

Spokane WA

"Mouse":  2017 Legacy Elite II NARV (Not An RV) Two Beds, Hull Number 218, See my HOW TO threads: https://olivertraveltrailers.com/topic/john-e-davies-how-to-threads-and-tech-articles-links/

Tow Vehicle: 2013 Land Cruiser 200, 33" LT tires, airbags.

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Yeah, I'm cleaning out the pink stuff this weekend, and that's the last I'll ever use it.  What a pain.  I'm doing the compressed air method from now on.

 

Another tip, which is probably obvious - if you do a 'shock' of your fresh water tank, don't use the tank drain but run that water through the faucets into the gray tank and let it sit there for a bit to keep that funk down to a minimum.

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Happy Camping,


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Reed & Karen Lukens with Riffles our Miniature Poodle


2017 Oliver Legacy Elite II  Standard, Hull #200 / 2017 Silverado High Country 1500 Short Bed 4x4


Past TV - 2012 Mercedes-Benz ML350 4Matic BlueTEC Diesel


Click on our avatar pic above to find the videos on our Oliver Legacy Elite II


 

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